Mr Punter

Even if you pass it may be worth spending a day or so plugging any gaps with foam or tape or OSB. It is annoying when you have plasterboard on dabs. You can get SAP to treat the space between plasterboard and wall as a low-e gap, which add to insulation. The reality is that mostly it allows cold outside air to freely circulate.

You really don't want to be plastering until the place is completely watertight.

Perhaps the building in in the curtilage of the original farmhouse. Do they post a planning notice near to the property? You seem to be getting very vexed by this. What negative impact will it have on you?

Was the test for SAP compliance and if so, what is the target number?

I guess RCD / MCB trips are the most likely. Does the ups do surge protection too?

Have they ever died from power outage, other than because of ups fault?

Why do you need a ups?

The way these appraisal normally work is to take the Gross Development Value and deduct construction costs, fees, overheads and profit to arrive at residual land value. The developer will seek to demonstrate that there is not enough profit in the scheme to provide affordable housing or other S106 contributions. The build cost of £1,000/m would be just that - excluding "technical abnormals" which I see accounts for a fairly chunky £30 million, or £41,000 per unit. The land costs are also in addition.

I think a pit would be bad to have as can contain leaked gas.

With poly bead I think it can be quite difficult to get the wall ties in, as they typically build up one side and the wall ties end up hanging in space or just shoved in later. With mineral wool the ties are supported by it. Any point in 75mm PIR and 125mm beads?

Yes, clever bloke. I liked his Scrapheap Challenge and that he knows Scoraig. I would happily have a pint with him. I think he is very sound.

If the flooring spans between the inner leaves it does not matter how wide the cavity is. What insulation are you looking at? A few of us are currently looking at brick / cavity / block construction with a 150mm + cavity. The best poly beads and mineral wool seem to come out the same at 0.032 W/m.K. I will get prices soon.

With brick outer, 200mm of the premium beads and block interior you get 0.1539. Do they round down? You could use AAC block for internal and it would be even lower. On lots of the calcs they do plasterboard on dabs, which helps the u value a bit. I prefer direct plaster. More chance of airtightness.

As @Jason L says, you may well not get full planning consent. Can you get your architect to talk to the planners?

They look impressive. Very crisp. We had some done for a development a couple of years ago but made a fair few planning amendments between the CGI and construction:

A real achievement Ian. Easy really, wasn't it? You are now allowed to spend a bit of Christmas feeling proud of yourselves.

Mug! Cancel the order and split the winnings with me for my fine advice.

Cheap plastic rectangular one. Leave the joist. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/23011376431 fitted in 3 minutes. Multi tool and mastic. These are the sort that I put in. Also use them for dirgos and base of internal stacks.

I had fitted it with a S&P REB1N speed controller but it was crap. I just swapped it for a switch.

I have the motor mounted in the roof space, so it is really quiet in the kitchen. I got rid of the extract motor and just left the light. I got a TD Soler & Palau inline 6" fan, switched from the wall in the kitchen. £160 ebay

I once fitted a MVHR into a small loft. To change the filters you have to disconnect the inlet and outlets and crawl commando style down the side and tilt the unit. I cleaned them out once but I doubt the new owners ever will.

You could probably use the same argument to install driven piles as you are not excavating. If it were my neighbour, I would prefer drilled or screw piles to trench excavation.

Sadly it will be gas combi boilers x 3 I think.

I am afraid I will need to have gas to get the SAP to work.

The one I fitted just has a high level alarm. The backup pump ones are for larger pump stations serving more than one property. They are very onerous with servicing and maintenance. Easier just to just buy a spare pump and change it if it breaks, or buy it after / if it breaks but you cannot use the downstairs WC for a few days.