tanneja

Members
  • Content Count

    231
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About tanneja

  • Rank
    Regular Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. tanneja

    Acupanel

    I have Ac and Ak both in front of me. Both nice people to deal with, but to my taste the range of Akupanel is far more exciting. Only downside is Akupanel don't do any 3m lengths.
  2. tanneja

    Acupanel

    The ceiling areas we are covering are on the ground floor, part of which is flat roof area, part has a bedroom above. Can these go straight onto the joists, or do I need to have plasterboard above? We haven't boarded yet, but we are space constrained on ceiling height, at the moment we would be around 2.3m in these areas of the room if we boarded and surface mounted. Additional battons would probably mean I could touch the ceiling on tip toes (I'm 5'11") which isn't a disaster but not my preference. No PB has obvious lack of mass issues with the ceiling between the bedroom and downstairs, but we went for 25mm plywood floor in the bedroom which is dense itself, and plan generous underlay. Unsure if it would be a reg requirement to have PB under either of the bedroom or flat roof, or whether would be inviting noise permeation from outside to forego the PB. Obviously need to pink PB around the steels. Unsure how to visualise the class C absorption from simple surface mounting, that is probably still good to have? The akupanel / woodup / lingosi from Gregg are just stunning in comparison to other company samples.
  3. tanneja

    Acupanel

    For what it is worth, I am far more impressed with the woodup Akupanels, also excellent guy Gregg who has been really helpful. Am certain to have in our open plan area to hopefully capture echos. Thank youfor the replies.
  4. I plan to go with controlissblinds.co.uk. Have had email exchanges with Chris Brooks, by far the most capable person I found in my research, and price seems ok to me, unsure how it compares with your quote.
  5. For same number of units and drawers, i have found supply only Leict units to be 3x the price of DIY kitchens (8k vs 24k). I can't imagine how I could ever justify that upcost to myself, even if we plan to live here +20 years
  6. @ryder72 can I ask, if Siematic is a bit pricey, which brand would you consider better value for money but still quality beyond the typical British kitchen? I got a quote for Leicht, it was far in excess of our planned budget. Ideally I would like a poket door pantry unit, which is what brought me to Leicht as they made one, but it was well beyond my means.
  7. @ProDave I totally agree, but there isn't anywhere. We have tried laundry in a bathroom and the result was carnage, and the new bathroom will be smaller. Is there any resaonable way to box in and sound proof free standing appliances?
  8. Wanting to reduce the likely ambient noise produced by the washer and dryer once they are installed in the open plan living area. One thought is rather than a free standing "on show" washer dryer, or integrated, would be oversized base units that have the necessary depth and width to house free standing appliances, but could add sound insulation around the units. Had planned to get the kitchen from DIY Kitchens. This requirement, plus our want for a full height pocket door pantry (not done by DIY kitchens) is bring is a level of bespoke that I can't afford, or if done by the team of builders, the finish is a bit unknown. You wouldn't see the side of the units, so could perhaps select a 700 or 800 base unit from DIY kitchen and have it not offered back to the wall, would 'just' mean deeper worktop over the base unit, but also probably double doors per unit rather than one nice door over the unit. If anyone can set me straight, I would appreciate it. Couldn't design another place for the utility in our retrofit unfortunately.
  9. It would impact the look, but if we could find a suitable accent colour (black or brushed metal perhaps) I was thinking of using a metal edge profile, but they might be a step too far and lose the aesthetic https://lilleytileandstone.co.uk/schluter-schiene-m-edge-profile-m-brass-h-8mm-l-1-mtr-s.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6o2U18iU7wIVqejtCh2uYAeiEAQYBCABEgIkHvD_BwE
  10. @joth really curious how this ends up for you, my better half would really like to go for sapien stone, everything else feels like a compromise, but it just looks so thin and the edge detail concerns me. Ours would also need a sink cut-out, but maybe an overmount sink solves that
  11. Thames Valley Windows seem to have done a good install for us
  12. @Jas142 I have alud clad upvc, as best you know, would that solvent be of any risk to the alu cladding?
  13. @Red Kite that remark on the suckers is a little alarming, we have just had our internorm install and they are fairly prominent. You have focused me on getting them clean before the scaffolding is down. Maybe car windshield polish?
  14. @SimonD do you think I would be any better off with the felt back 18mm TG ply that I can see online? Unsure if it would be of any assistance to squeaks. http://www.provincialfloors.co.uk/hushply28.html Part of me isn't convinced by TG for squeaks in these large sheet material applications, where some minute deflection is easy to imagine. I am guessing not having TG, instead a 2mm gap between sheets, and mechanically fixing would be insufficient rigidity from the lack of interlocking. Just feels like then I could remove any TG noise.
  15. Ok understood thanks, I guess we would have access to see if there is some inherent bend at the timber top surface if we remove, I can't tell while all together, as while any camber should be evident from below if the timber is of uniform thickness, it sounds like there could be any number of imperfections from the materials used, to the installation, causing the creaking, so direct inspection is the best chance to identify. The joist installation is on hangars on a wall plate, I can try do pictures at some point, they are nailed into the metal hangars. I am a layman, so if I am told 22mm chipboard will outperform 22mm ply, that is valuable information. I could go for a thicker material up to around 30mm if that further helps our cause. I just have relatively little faith in chipboard. Asking friends with renovated houses with 18mm chipboard, all by different builders, all say their 1st floors squeak and so they avoid stepping in places, that drives my scepticism of any chipboard, it seems to me it is cheap rather than having advantageous properties relative to other sheet material.