tanneja

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About tanneja

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  1. Is that a rendering of the final plan? It sits harmoniously within the grounds and next to the house. Will the side walls make opening and closing the car doors a bit problematic? What size is is planned to be, it seems big enough for a single car? And so what size array will it have? Do you also have panels on the house roof? Our house is L shaped, and so any carport would sit in the middle of the L, essentially not in front of either principal elevation, but I take your point, it is the safer thing to do.
  2. @AliG did you continue to look at a carport? If yes would you mind sharing your decisions? I am considering a carport, 6x6, unsure if I need PP as will be behind the further forward part of the house, but would be relatively close to the boundary edge (within 2 m). I am a corner plot so I am on show to the rest of the neighbours. Used to have a lean-to carport and it was so helpful throughout the years. Being able to integrate solar into the roof where I couldn't to our main roof would be a real bonus, it wouldn't get late evening sun as would get into the shade cast by the house, but uninterrupted the rest of the day. Is there a way to have the roof watertight but it not act like a big sail during strong winds? I would expect a kind of gutter design permitting airflow but prevents rain and sunlight getting through.
  3. tanneja

    Acupanel

    @Dan F did you have to get fire rated to satisfy BC?
  4. @Adsibob did you go through with this and find an affordable way to do it?
  5. Is there any way at all of getting black smoke and heat alarms for a residential house without needing to go industrial with panels etc? I saw so many when I did an initial look but after calling a few online stores none know of any domestic sensors that will meet UK regs (i.e. mains powered with battery backup)
  6. I have countered for now with a statement that I won't have signoff from BC any time soon, resent the calculations and photos of the installation from inside the house, and that I would invite them to return if they really want to see in person. I can't see how much more flexible we can be.
  7. I was having a discussion with a friend regarding airtightness and MVHR. It was mainly in the guise of retrofit if one were to do a full or near full strip out of a property. After all the mistakes I feel I made this first time around, we discussed how we would ideally establish the airtight layer around the shell of the house and then build within that. We were also talking about soundproofing meaures too so to reduce sound transmission between rooms. A point raised which left us unsure was how to manage the ground floor to1st floor joist area. In a traditional build this area might get ventilation through the walls of the building or gappy flooring. In a airtight and soundproofed build, it feels like this cavity could end up being sealed off from the rooms. Can anyone explain to a layman like me if this represents an issue for the house health? My hope would be that moisture can still move through the timber floor boards and so while there might not be much air flow, that the chance of a condensation issue is minimal to zero?
  8. Precisely this. Came to inspect EWI install, and found fault with the house ventilation as reason to deny EWI payment. On the refurb question, to be honest I hadn't really considered it, I was clear about my project being a refurb every step of the way with the potential (and eventual) system providers, one would hope the fact that I would be foul of building regs would come up. I have attempted a frantic check online and can't find anything specific. I suppose that could be their angle potentially, but I don't give them that much credit.
  9. My situation has got unnecessarily troublesome. EWI install seems to have gone well, then Trustmark send around a surveyor to see if all done to standard. No issues on the install of the EWI it seems, but the absence of visible trickle vents in windows means the surveyor has said the house has a major failing and so the grant not be payable to the installer. We have whole house MVHR. They surveyor didn't even make their selves known, must have walked around the driveway and shot off without even knocking / asking any questions. I have given the installer the spec sheet, flow rate calculations and proof of purchase from Paul Heat Recovery, share pics showing installation, but that doesn't seem enough. They are saying they want to wait for the building signoff to see all is above board. They will be waiting a while as our build fund has runout so the builders are going off to another job while we save up for jobs as we go along. I don't want to commission the system when the house is full of builder dust. The installer is getting itchy and threatened before that I will need to find the grant money if they have further issues with GHG. We all have enough going on with pandemic making everything more difficult, some people, like this surveyor, really defy belief. A house 2 roads away clearly has MVHR too based on their vents, how has an experienced surveyor made this assumption.
  10. We have provisioned for the washer and dryer to be "integrated" like this, as our utility is in an open plan area. I hope to have a modest sound reduction from the cabinet, perhaps lined in tecosound or something to add mass and cover air gaps in the cabinets. Unsure on HP or Condenser dryer and the impact that has on needing cupboard ventilation at the moment, there is a route to have it vent into an airing cupboard but that probably isn't ideal. I am expecting it to be less convenient to add detergent as the drawer will be set back in the cabinet, I don't really want to remove the drawer to add detergent, might men decanting washing liquids into dispensers with straws / nozzles. We really want noise reduction, but this was the only place for the utility, so hoping it all works out.
  11. @elite I offer my sincere thanks for giving me the confidence to really look at these manuals. Just so I am not misreading, it would seem the RGBW2 also supports dimming of both RGBWW and single colour LED strips?
  12. @elite yes I appreciate a HC isn't essential but didn't want to bite off more than I could chew to begin with, so hoped linking the devices and scenes would be a bit more user frieldy with a HC to begin with, I can always retire it down the line if not needed any more. I'm a bit disappointed with it anyway given it doesn't support zigbee as advertised when i have already bought some zigbee RGBWW GU10s, means another hub. Is that is the case with the RGBW2 modules being appropriate for all strips, that is very valuable information as it allows me to go ahead and buy. Do you expect there to be any caveat to that based on LED strip length?
  13. I plan to create scenes using the HC3 that will be switch driven so have lots of reactive switches, but also have aspirations to have the lighting then linked to HA routines to make it more automated.
  14. At this stage I am basically certain to go down the fibaro Zwave route for any kind of smart lighting in the house. We have new rewire throughout with deepest switch back boxes available, and I managed to get a Fibaro HC3 for cheap, and a couple of demo modules just to see for size (and have frightened my electrician with how many might need to go in each switch box). I feel like I have been reading for weeks but can't get my head around what modules I will need for each circuit. Generally speaking there are 3 types of lighting circuit in the house: - multiple LED GU10s on the same circuit (from 2 - 12 spots) - length of spotless LED strip (from lengths of 2m - 10m) - length of RGBWW LED strip (from lengths of 2m - 10m) Some of these circuit variants are 1 way switches, most are 2 way switched, and one is 3 way. I would want all the GU10 and spotless circuits to be dimmable, and want all the usual scene programming. What I can't get to grips with as I don't understand circuit diagrams, is which of the fibaro modules will I need for each circuit type (both due to the type of light being used, and the number of switches it has to operate. My gut is telling me you only need 1 module per circuit and that it can live behind either of the switches in the circuit, at our choice essentially, which would be helpful as means can spread the back modules between switches to make space easier to deal with. I also feel like I need the fibaro dimmer 2 for the Gu10s, and obviously the RGBW 2 module for the colour change strips. If those are both sensible, it is then what to do with the spotless strips, i have read using the dimmer2 and also using the rgbw2 modules. Can anyone offer any advice? Is the situation more complex or perhaps (hopefully) simpler than I think it is? I don't want to melt modules or have flickering dimmed lights! Sincere thanks!
  15. Sorry to hear that @joth, that is great info on the deadlock for the garage access as that is on my to do list, you have saved us there. For a front door it just looked to difficult with Moralt in the end so went with a Camel glass liquid metal door, don't think it is passive standard but has good insulation and security credentials to the layman.