Mr Punter

Your ICF supplier may have someone they can recommend who is familiar with their system and can design something practical and efficient.

Yes, do it before you board if you have a challenging target. MBC do this as standard.

Per square metre envelope area. Does not need to be exposed so could be party wall, party floor, basement etc.

No, like I say, strip off the porch and re-roof, tidy the gutter and fix the dry ridge. I suspect that @Oz07 is right there is a window above the porch so the lead is too low. The window the other side has a soldier course under and that corresponds to the location of the lead here and the ensuing mess. Maybe architect drawings were poor or different size windows selected. Brickie just wants to finish and get paid. It all gets left to the roofer / leadworker, neither of whom are at the top of their game. With the walls either side of the garage door, again it looks like this has not been set out to brick dimensions and having got there the bricklayer did not know how or could not be bothered to make the broken bond look acceptable. It is not the best but not unusual either.

I use the Screedboard 28 in flats. It is simple to install and the surface finish is good enough for LVT flooring. On the ceilings beneath I spec resilient bar and 2 layers of 15mm Soundbloc plasterboard.

Blame the brickie.

But that won't cure in time either. I suppose you could put some acrows under the lintels.

Delay both. Probably won't rain anyway. Unless you have built using Weetabix, one week exposure should not hurt.

Delay it for a week. I don't understand how that will cost you money. If you risk it and you lose the piers it will be more than a week Avoidable structural collapse on a site does not look good.

I don't think it looks terrible. I would ask that they strip the porch, alter the rafters and relay the porch roof, fix down the dry ridge properly and adjust the bracket at the end of the gutter.

No, not for high rise. I think it has been withdrawn.

22mm Egger Protect is about £10/m plus VAT. It will take 1/3 of the time to lay, is nice and flat and no creaks.

I think Kingspan will be OK. Their product is, I think, a bit less flammable than Celotex. I guess it is Rockwool all the way for high rise now. Installing it at double the thickness of PIR adds a fair bit to the cost. I hope that some of the parties in the scandal are made to foot the bill for replacement cladding in the other blocks where their product has been installed.

I have used that type of Celotex in another couple of applications - internal wall insulation and full fill cavity insulation. I tested a bit with a blow torch and it did seem less flammable than normal PIR. The issue they had was to claim it was good to use it for high rise rainscreen cladding. I did feel a bit sorry for the young lad Jon Roper, who was recruited by Celotex fresh out of uni and may have been coerced into falsifying safety test information. It is probably the case that much of the U value data from this firm is also dubious.

Have a look at some of the posts from @Visti who knows what he is up to. His place would be worth a visit.

Update on this............ I have, this afternoon, taken delivery of a Chinese urinal. I invited others from my household to the unboxing but sadly they declined so I did this alone. The item had, to my relief, (and the future relief of site workers not yet known) arrived intact and undamaged. The total cost of £52.19 means it will be neither my greatest bargain or my worst fail. I will post a further update if / when I fit it on site.

I think they are living there so the electric would need to be cut for the duration. Also new ceiling would be needed and if they change the joists it would be new floor / move out.

I would think that 4" posts would be fine and look no worse than a soil pipe boxing. You may need chunky bases plate if the screed is weak. Get the engineer to spec the beam as it would be annoying if it took on a sag. When you install you may need to crank it up over a few days with acrows.

I think your builder has the right idea. Steel should be shallower section than timber. Can you lose the posts in the walls either side? I would not involve BC as you are just reducing bounce in the floor.

It is a good point. That roof is overdue for its annual strip off and replace.

Often see this in old timber framed houses. The bricks will need to be easy to clean - so previously laid in a lime mortar. If they are clean, they may be worth a bit second hand. The sole plates will need a decent bearing. You could add a long screw or nail into a stud every 6 courses to tie it in.

Not the best. I am not sure why the ridge fixings are not screwed down more. As you know, these systems are fairly fool proof so unlikely to leak or work loose. Is there a crack in a tile on the bottom row?

You could move in with @pocster

You could just buy a big boy gas combi. Unlimited showers. No messing with tanks etc. Loads cheaper to run. Any gas plumber can install cheaply. You could get one with a bit of storage. A fair bit of the electric you use on your ASHP is made by burning gas.

I have a similar setup in a scheme I am about to start. GRP is the favourite solution. If you do it in lead you need welts to join the lengths together and they will trap the water. Just use the lead for the vertical wall. You may need to introduce a hopper on the downpipe or take the lead round the corner a bit and drain into the gutter lower down - when it is there.