Mr Punter

It should be but it varies. Best bet is to ask the planners to confirm. I have known small demolition to count on a multimillion scheme, sometimes new site access, sometimes piling where they install 3 piles and bugger off for a few years.

Roll out rafter tray

It is still a flue in a void within the building envelope so it would need inspecting.

It is worth bearing in mind that the roof does not normally require fire resistance.

I have just fitted the cheapo plastic ones, although it was where the flue was boxed in normal MDF, so no fire rating needed.

Why would that matter? They just need to be able to inspect the flue.

Yep. It is sometimes a pain to do the calculation but your survey may also reference some existing points, like chamber covers in the road, which can help you when setting out to make sure your floor levels etc correspond to your plans.

Metres above ordnance datum.

If this is a full planning application and not class q permitted development I doubt it would make much difference what the current use is. I can't understand why you gave them a right of access as you clearly do not get on with them. If you object to their application you are unlikely to be popping over to borrow a cup of sugar anytime soon.

If the other property has a right of access it will not normally be limited and it could be used to access any number of new dwellings.

I have fitted a mini pump station in a basement. It is a tank that we semi recessed into the floor and contains a pump with a float switch. The outlet is large enough not to need a macerater. It is quiet when it operates. It was a bit like https://www.drainstore.com/pumping-stations-pumps/mini-micro-small-sewage-pumping-station-for-extensions-and-garden-rooms-190-litre-capacity/

Leave some bricks out at the bottom and rake it clean? Not sure how practical this is though. On my current project we the upper floors are built off a wide steel plate so will need a cavity tray at the bottom.

Do you favour beads or batts for the rest of the wall?

The eps beads go down to 0.032 lambda which is the same as the best fibre batts. There is also little risk of gaps or missing pieces. I am not sure about price though. Someone @Brickie? mentioned that with a wide cavity it is easier to use batts as they support the wall ties which otherwise lose their balance and there may therefore be a temptation to just push the ties into the joints.

If you are motivated and hard working you should do OK. Working for a smaller firm is probably nicer than a big contractor. I am always happy when I find someone who works hard, does a decent job and does not bitch and moan.

Agreed. Really quite shameful. I feel violated looking at the images.

The OSB / ply adds loads of strength and stiffness to a wall. Easier to fix to timber studs than metal if you have a nail gun. You will struggle to butt join 2 sheets on a single 35mm stud if it is anything other than dead straight.

You have probably excluded yourself from the housewarming party list there.

What makes you think it has not moved for 50 years? The OP wall looks a bit of a mess. It could be a candidate for external wall insulation.

Hardie cladding, hanging tiles, slate would all work. Is it just the triangle bit you are doing or the whole wall? What is the roof covering? Is the rest render onto blockwork or render onto carrier board / mesh?

That looks awful. A note from a structural surveyor would not satisfy me on this one. Can you clad the wall with something? The brick courses either side of the join do not line up. The mastic has been applied by a blind man with a shovel.

Could you post up an elevation and let us know the construction type?

Be wary of them going broke. They have been around for a while so hopefully not, but credit card payment may give you some protection. Do a site and factory visit. Get them to price to include insulation. I like the idea of getting a watertight shell and air pressure test as part of any package if you are new to this.

I had you down as a resilient bar sort of guy...

May be good to strip the tiles and replace with lead, done by a proper leadworker.