Mr Punter

If the smoke surrounds the house it will be in the loft too. If you have the supply air from the loft you may get some stale air from the house and some smoke from the neighbour, but if it is easy to do and reversible it is worth a go.

The roof has been extensively repaired. If it is not leaking I would leave it. When it comes to repairs you may need to strip the slates, new membrane and battens and finish the flat area in GRP.

Yes with most of these the builder is liable for the first 2 years. The policies often also cover for the builder going broke in that time. I have spent about £40k in premiums and nobody has made a claim.

I think the bricklayer can make these from DPC but better just to buy the pre-formed ones. They are good if there is a decent area of exposed brickwork above, but the building inspector may want them in any case.

I have seen some examples where there the building is like an open shelter and they have allowed the conversion. Can you post a picture?

I have not read the whole thread. Did you see the one with Mikeee5 on GBF? If the smoke is around higher up at rooftop level can you lower the intake? If your loft has clean air, that should work.

I had a corrugated asbestos garage roof replaced with insulated steel / plastisol. You need a new lintel / beam along the front. In Sussex I used http://www.icroofing.co.uk/specification.html

I think it is PD but worth getting the LDC just in case. Someone I know got a LDC for a load of dormers to some houses. He did not realise that PD rights had been removed when the houses were first built but the LDC meant that the council could do nothing about it.

You also need to check it is not locally listed or in a conservation area. You will need planning consent for the replacement before you demolish.

Well played Triton!

Look for used ones on ebay

How are you going to remove the straps and the bubblewrap after this is on the ground? Surely this can't be so heavy that you can't lift one end or a couple of people to help move it into final position? It is not Stonehenge you big jessie.

I think the US ones may be easier to read. Will your SE accept it?

How do you know the strength, pull-out and fire resistance? If they have been properly tested your engineer may be happy to spec them.

I thought you were doing charcoal grout?

The 50mm PIR should be OK. There more insulation around the steel the better. ROckwool can sometimes work OK if you need to fit into gaps. It is quite common to clad / flash the reveals then Compriband outside, foam inside and seal the inside polythene vcl to the frame before plasterboarding.

Nope

We are now firmly into First World over privileged smug middle class territory.

4 years. I have tinkered when they go wrong but they are very complicated.

I had one of these. It was not the most reliable and servicing was expensive. I have also had a Jura, De Longhi and am currently on a Melitta with milk frother. The Melitta is the best so far.

160 slabs at about 55kg each. Hopefully not too many cuts to do.

I would go with what they spec. You don't fancy a polished concrete or terrazzo type thing?

For that size of 2 storey building you should get it properly designed and specified. They should also be able to make it as cost effective as possible.

I don't think you have much of a case as you have left it so long but you may manage to get them to send someone to touch in the pointing for an hour or so just as a goodwill thing.