Mr Punter

SIGA are a big firm and seem fine.

You are definitely doing the right thing photographing and documenting every defective area as it is exposed. Make sure there is some context so you can see where it is on the building if / when it gets rendered over or otherwise covered up. Maybe number the photos and have a drawing or photo showing where it was on the elevation or plan. If you continue presenting evidence they will probably be more inclined to settle, as the house looks too bodged to repair and you will appear too determined to stand down. Is there a cash sum that you would accept in exchange for releasing them from their obligations, or is full refund your aim?

I think the cement based ones look less hassle than the gypsum / anhydrite ones. No messing if you want to tile or stick down floor finish.

The council did say " they have made their assessment in line with the relevant legislation and custom and practice in terms of such changes in accordance with Article 3 of the Council Tax (Chargeable Dwellings) Order 1993. " I assume that is the relevant law and that is why no arrears are due.

Have you got fascia / soffit / gutters / downpipes in? Saves a lot of water running down the walls / into the house. With the big opening, could you cover the top bit just to stop water getting too far in? If you have a chipboard floor it is worth sweeping the water out after a downpour as it won't like being submerged for weeks on end.

Yes to these. Don't let the cables get soaking wet. There is a fair amount of work getting this lot in.

Self closing doors are no longer required in a house, other than between house and a garage. If they need to be fire resisting they should be FD30. If you have the wiring for smoke detectors it would be a good idea to install them. I recommend Ei3024 Multi-Sensor Fire Alarms.

Patination oil, when applied to new, stops it going white.

Another vote for hook fixing. On vertical they don't rattle in the wind.

Agreed. The way they do this stinks of dog's piss. They are like double glazing sales from the bad old days. White Gold!

Just get planning consent and build a proper house.

A 10mm gap at the bottom seems de rigueur for building control. Be a shame to set them too low and have the shave the bottom of the doors.

Is there any chance to include a soakaway or permeable paving?

I think that is full fill cavity insulation. Because the boards are rigid it is important that they are fitted correctly - tightly butted and all in the same orientation. The one in the tpp is fitted in the right orientation but I cannot work out what the DPC is doing. The drawings for these products are often really sketchy for details like air bricks, DPCs and wind posts. The gaps between insulation boards allow cold air to freely circulate which may be one reason the house is cold. I would halt all works and take them to court. Maybe your household insurance will cover legal costs.

I think we know - not at all. I have used Ipe for decking. Apparently no too bad in terms of how many get felled, until you learn that they will fell a massive swathe of trees to get to one Ipe and drag it out of the forest. Tropical hardwood is not sustainable.

I agree it is crap but lots of mass developer housing is. Missing insulation, incorrect DPCs. They normally go for very simple designs but when they try something more challenging it does not work with the monkeys they use.

Please do not praise him in that aspect!

I have had this on a bamboo floor and I got thresholds made up with the same material. They looked fine and were only 15mm high and was a spec development which sold quickly. God knows what your guys will do.

Aerogel but it is crazy money

This looks similar to yours https://www.classq.co.uk/Permitted-Development/Ridlington-Barns

It looks like you messed with the safety catch on the hook and it bit you on the arse. Why are you having a heavy shower tray suspended over the area where you are trying to work? You're lucky not to be wearing it!

You will not easily remove the bottom rows of slates. If you want to do the job, strip them all, starting with the ridge tiles, then re-fit after you have fitted the new GRP valley.

I was reading on the Savills site that you class q rights can act as a fall back position which may help if you want a new build https://www.savills.com/blog/article/273146/residential-property/class-q-permitted-development-rights---where-are-we-now.aspx CLASS Q AS A FALLBACK POSITION It is established in case law that permitted development rights can legitimately represent a fallback position when considering alternative proposals for development at the same site. This was the case in one of our recent projects where, after having secured Prior Approval to convert a Dutch barn to a dwelling, planning permission was subsequently achieved for an alternative development involving the replacement of the Dutch barn with a larger and more valuable new build dwelling, creating an unencumbered ‘self-build’ plot in the countryside to present to the market.

That sounds good value. Have you seen his work or spoken to a customer? I really like good quality LVT when it is neatly fitted to a properly prepped floor.

You may be overthinking this. Make sure the cavity trays are higher than the top of the roof and have a decent weep hole at the end. It is sometimes tricky as you may have the brickwork up a long time before the sloping roof. On existing buildings BC sometimes just allow a coat of silane / siloxane on the brickwork above. Lots of connies get put on existing houses and stepped cavity trays are out of the question. I don't hear too many horror stories.