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Found 10 results

  1. Getting prices back on a tender for a full refurb of a 1930s semi, together with double storey rear extension and loft conversion. Big variation in price for upgrading the the existing subfloor of the first and second floors (the second floor being the floor of the loft). As much as £10k +VAT difference. I had specified that first and loft floor joists should be inspected and only replaced if necessary, and that the joists should be reinforced with noggins and additional joists in one of the bathrooms (because heavy stone bath tub in that bathroom). Although those joists will be 90 years old, there is no damp/rot (as far as I'm aware), and so I don't see why we should necessarily replace them. One builder has said that in his experience joists this old always need replacing and given the amount of changes I'm making to the floor layout (I'm moving the stair case, for example), it's going to be easier to rip everything out and start again with new joists. He therefore thinks I should budget for this at the outset, rather than work off provisional sums depending on what is revealed when we expose the subfloor. A separate point is that the "subfloor" is already exposed in the loft, so if he wasn't being lazy he could just go up there and show me why he thinks the existing joists aren't good enough. Thoughts anyone?
  2. Hi, I am currently working on a basement extension in my 1890s terraced house. There was an existing basement to the rear under the dining room but I am extending towards the front under the living room. My question is about removing sleeper walls under the living room. A structural engineer has seen the existing basement and was happy that the first wall could be removed and a wooden support be put into the party wall and across as the joists above only support the floor and is not structural. Having taken this wall down as advised and new support put in I am faced with two sleeper walls going towards the front. Can I remove these and replicate the wooden support as the first OR as they are sleepers do the supports need to be steel? The living room, dining room above has no supporting walls internally. The pictures are of the first sleeper I came to and would like to support, remove, replace with wooden beam into party wall either side.
  3. Hi people, I'm new to the site and it seems to be very helpful in most situations so I thought I'd give it a try. I'm a roofer by trade so haven't done much carpentry/joinery and I've been asked by a client to put a roof starting from the joists. It's a new build (family room in the back of the garden) that's roughly 5.8m x 5.6m and the client is thinking about putting an RSJ in to stop the roof from sagging. Could this be avoided by tripling up 8" x 2" C24 timbers in the centre and going out from that at 400 centres? With an overhang the joist lengths will be roughly 6m long. The actual roof will be a warm deck Fleeceback Ruberbond EPDM and it may have a small (1m x1m) velux dome installed as well. Any help or ideas will be appreciated as I havent don't much carpentry before. I'd like to tackle it myself (with a friend) as I'm always wanting to learn more and it seems like a good straight forward one to do once I get a good idea of it.
  4. Need advice please: FF bathroom is due to have a square(-ish) bathtub (1050x1250mm, 600mm deep). Total water capacity 428l. Users will be above 110kg. Now the floor structure is timber joists N. G2,47*250mm Grade C24@0.40mCTRS (taken from SE plans). We've made that double joists, bolted together. The new builder (we've had a change of builders this months, don't ask...) says it would probably need a metal plate support on top of joists to ensure the full bathtub does not cause joists movement. Architect says maybe not. Any opinion please?
  5. Hi All My first post - so a bit of a rookie! I am designing a flat roof back and side extension to my Victorian Terrace and I want to expose the wooden joists of the flat roof into the exposed steel beam (like in attached pictures) I am trying to work out how these are fixed into the beam which is a UC 254x254 - obvi the traditional approach would be pack with timber + hangers but as it will all be exposed Id like a more aesthetic solution. As far as I can tell, I need a 'nice' looking hanger to fit inside of the beam that can be painted with intumescent paint along with the beam and am looking for recommendations for these. Or, do steel companies design this into the beam as it looks like in some of the pictures? I did email one to ask but the answer was no. Any recommendations for these as well! Thank you in advance.
  6. I was glad I didn't do a final check for level when I stopped working on the mezzanine joists last night. I would have had another really bad nights sleep. Look at this.... this is how un-level I managed to nail the joists hanger: no, the red laser line isn't disappearing to infinity, it's 30mm out at one end and 0 on the other - over 2 meters For those of you wondering what self-build does to you - it makes you tired enough to make significant - and sometimes costly- errors All I had to do last night was recognise how tired I was tack the joists in position with cramps and one or two nails go home But no, I had to hammer home 24 nails on the joist hanger with one end of the joist 30mm too low. In the cold light of day it beggars belief . The remedy? Make a 2 meter long stealer piece (wedge) : half a day's work and thank God for Debbie's Christmas cake.
  7. This week has been difficult and pleasing in equal measure. Never installed a joist before, but now 8 are up, sitting there waiting to be nailed in place. No nails yet - just push fit. Fussing them into level-ness was interesting. Mostly I managed to get them level enough to of split the laser beam - half on, half over the top. But doing that job made me look at the joists in great detail. The top surfaces have some very small bumps and dips above and below the laser line. Nothing substantial. Since I don't know what I don't know, should I get the belt sander out and make sure that the bumps are levelled out? Planning to nail them in and then put temporary boarding on them tomorrow: quite exciting because it's a bedroom - somewhere to put up guests?
  8. Hello everybody, Here's hoping there is someone who can help with this.... I am converting the loft in my old house that has exposed beam (joists) ceilings. I need to make a stairwell opening. I do not want to use joist hangers or brackets as these will be visible. The joists are 3x8 inch (8x18cm) oak joists in very good condition, no worm or rot at all. The span is 4M and joists are at 52cm. I hope you can see my sketch. My plan is to support and cut back 2 joists to form the opening. To reuse one to form the header and the other the length of the opening, to reduce the opening width. I do not have the space upstairs to have the wider opening to the next full length joist. Please could I have you advice on this plan and will nailing these be adequate? I hope that makes some sort of sense...... thanks for looking.
  9. I get that masonry wall floor joist hangers are favoured over traditional in-wall fixing of joists in the pursuit of airtight homes but can these hangers cope with 100 years of cyclical loading? Here is my beef. Driving a metal nail into a brittle masonry block to attach a hanger feels like an abuse of such dissimilar materials with long-term failure designed into the fixing. Next add 100 years of 80kg cyclical loading as humans walk around inside the home, stir in some thermal expansion and contraction loads on the hanger attachments and surely after a decade or two the hanger nails will start wobbling in the blocks? Then finally for a laugh apply that process to light thermal blocks. Are my concerns unfounded? The no nonsense commercial builder of a plot nearby has fitted his metal web floor joists direct into the inner blockwork and these blocks are heavy structural blocks I think.
  10. At the risk of sounding like I know what I'm talking about, should I dwang my joists? All those in favour say 'Aye', all those against say 'Nay'. Where's he dug that up from then? Here This is the relevant passage. '... The slimmer JJI joists have been plated at their ends and dwanged (horizontal braces) to form a rigid structure. Two thicknesses of 12mm plywood will cover the ends, followed by the green vapour membrane being folded up over to give a vapour barrier. Insulation board of 140mm thickness will be fixed on top of that to bring it flush with the Durisol blocks below.... (