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Nail hit firmly on the head. So we have to reduce CO2 emissions. That we all understand, but don't let anyone kid you that ripping out a perfectly good working modern mains gas boiler and replacing it with an ASHP is going to reduce your fuel bills. IT IS NOT. I think a lot of companies are going to scare home owners into believing their mains gas is about to be shut off very soon and they have to change for an alternative. There is going to be a lot of grant money sloshing around which the cynic in me says (largely from previous history) that most of that will just end up lining the pockets of the companies offering to rip out your gas boiler and replace it with an ASHP and very little will benefit the end user. An ASHP makes perfect sense for a modern well insulated low energy house in a location where mains gas is not available, and ours is performing well for that application, but I am yet to be convinced they are a viable option for an old poorly insulated house without huge upgrades to the buildings fabric. And a huge percentage of the UK's housing stock falls into that category.

To anyone interested down the line it was actually the cap that was leaking, it was changed out for a different style and this has fixed the issue! Yay on to the next issues!

It wasn't well: We made it at least better: Had to source a new transaxle back end, rebuild the pcb, derust bits using hot citric acid & electrolysis etc. My lad even managed to bring back the completely dead lead acid wet battery. Cleaned it with a bicarbonate of soda solution about 10% bicarb. That reacts & cleans all the crap off the plates. Rinsed. Then filled with 12% Epsom salt solution and trickle charged for 24 hours. Up to about 13V and has started the mower no problem half a dozen times. That's with the Epsom salt solution still in and no "real" acid. These Westwood's mind are a bit crash, bang, agricultural compared to the John Deere. A lad on the mig welding forum took one like mine and refurbed it. Removed the cutting deck etc. Takes his grandson to the shops on it!

A detailed Flood Risk Assessment and Surface Water Drainage/SUDS Strategy was prepared for my site at Outline Planning stage. As it was done before I purchased the site and poor drainage/flooding is the number 1 bugbear of the neighbours, I have been through it and The SUDS Manual (968 pages !!) with a fine tooth comb. As you say, the jargon and the methodology is very off-putting for the lay person. A couple of extracts from my report summarise the first steps (as well as the jargon) required: "In order to quantify the existing runoff rate from the site, the methodology outlined within the Institute of Hydrology Report Number 124 (IoH 124) entitled Flood Estimation for Small Catchments, has been adopted. This document together with the guidance stipulated in the Interim Code of Practice for Sustainable Drainage Systems, compiled by the National SUDS Working Group in July 2004, suggests that an estimation of peak runoff rates from areas below 50 ha, and up to 200 ha, can be derived from the calculated mean annual flood flow, QBAR." "The ICPSUDS function within the Microdrainage software Version 2016.1 can be used which implements IoH 124 method with a pro-rata below 50 ha. The SAAR value of 623mm has been determined from the catchment descriptors taken from the FEH CDROM Version 3. The soil value has been determined using the information from the Winter Rain Acceptance Potential (WRAP) map within the Flood Studies Report, 1975, together with Table 6 and equation 12 of the ADAS document entitled Pipe Size Design for Field Drainage, 1980." Thankfully Microdrainage is not required and the online tools at Online tools for sustainable drainage systems (SuDS) (uksuds.com) will allow you to calculate mean annual flood flow (QBAR) for the existing site. The methodology is based on the premise that the flow rate discharge constraints for storm water runoff from the site are defined by the greenfield runoff rates for the 1 year, 30 year and 100 year return periods. The tool is flexible in allowing the use of three different methods for estimating greenfield runoff rates along with various options for assessment of storage volumes using variations in the design criteria (e.g. minimum design flow rates from the site, requirements for control of runoff volumes for the 1:100yr, 6 hour event). Note that in Microdrainage a range of storm durations and intensities are modelled (i.e. 15 - 10080 minute for both summer and winter). For my site, the 1440 minute summer storm was the worst case used for the permeable paving design. Note also that although SUDS attenuation/infiltration devices are usually designed for 1 in 100 year events, the design is checked against an exceedance case which is usually the 1 in 1000 year storm events. Let us know how you get on ?

You’ll get less stratification with a longer immersion heater as you won’t be creating a point heat source.

don’t fancy the motivational speaking, I’m firmly planted in the real world.

+1

Plus you don't want an incidental 'warm radiator' instead of a cold EV

Chase them in, PVC tape the pipe, and then use expanding foam to fully encapsulate the pipe. If you don't then the heat from the pipes will be forever heating a cold wall.

Closer to 50mm by the time you’ve got ceiling board on. You can also buy 2440mm or old 8fr boards.

Condensation won’t form but chasing them would be preferable.

skirting to cover the gap. Tricky because the gap will need filling with something. Or cut a sheet to fit (avoid slivers of PB) - alternate the line so that the cracks don't go the length of the wall!

That’s how mass builders do it. you can of course put an off cut in too.

I’d have the boost one as the one through the coil then. What length is the immersion ..?

If you have a fire that is affecting the cavity insulation you have much bigger issue than whether it is flammable in any way ... probably wouldn’t be much left of the timber parts of the structure of the building by that point.

I agree with the above, I did similar, nothing flash, but loads of insulation and airtightness. Windows made locally and double glazed but very near triple value. You can upgrade all the “bolt ons” afterwards but you can’t add more wall and underfloor insulation afterwards. Loads of knowledge here and we don’t mind how many questions you ask!!! (Unless your names zoot ?).

Maybe you need to forget that silly word PASSIVE HOUSE and instead build a very well insulated, airtight house. Im in agreement that unless you do a MASSIVE amount of work your budget is woefully small. You can get a shell up with a £1000 kitchen and move in, then finish it over the next few years.

No. The ground will rarely get above 12°C, so even if air temperature is higher, you will still be loosing energy heating the mud. You can save cash or all those expensive 'nice to haves', posh kitchen (with or without island/breakfast bar), over the top bathrooms, expensive staircases, expensive glazing etc. All that can be replaced at a later date when finances are different. Design an airtight, well insulated, box with the internal walls where you want them. Make sure your thermal bridging is kept to an absolute minimum, design in the MVHR at the very beginning, so make sure the build is as airtight as possible (even if you do an interim test), fit UFH pipework, but maybe run it off a simple Willis heater, see what @TerryE and other have done, keep the plumbing and wiring simple, but maybe run ductwork for extra cabling later. Internal doors can start off cheap, then put a posh one in every year. Keep an eye on the professional fees, and make sure you are not in for any surprises i.e. connecting to services, ground conditions, storm drainage, environmental reports/mitigations etc, You can loose £50k on those alone @ToughButterCup was keeping a spreadsheet on these costs. Just keep it all very basic, but allow for easy upgrades later. Research all you can. Then do some more research. Only use a friend if you want to get rid of them, and they are well insured.

Just to really liven this thread up.... Bolts that have the shank threaded are called set screws....???

Put the cove back up

Still waiting to be power-washed to find out! ?

Some threads see me wanting to make a bolt for the door...

I disagree, it is material dependant. With metal or wood you have bolts and screws, screws have thread the whole length, bolts do not. Both require clearance holes in both pieces (and washers). With wood you can have full threaded screws or partial threaded screws , clearance hole in one or not. To clamp two pieces of wood tightly you need either partial threaded or a clearance hole in the top piece. There are special wood screws made with a different thread pitch near the head specifically for pulling pieces together.

I would normally add some stainless steel pins and ties if it’s a deep area to replace, these are bits of wire glued into the existing stone so that the new mortar has something solid to attach to, you then add the new mortar all around and over the ties and this prevents any chance of it shearing of if the bond between old and new fails. If it’s a really thin repair you are sometimes better of grinding out a few lies with a diamond cutter so that the the new mortar can again get a better bond with the old. But you could just slap it on and hope for the best......

Meant. Dressed to give look of sandstone, effectively troweled on, let go off and tool as required

Get someone else to do it!

It looks like it just needs scraping back and filling with something like https://www.toolstation.com/toupret-touprelith-f-exterior-masonry-repair-filler/p35114 Is this from one of your filthy scumbag slum hovels luxury HMOs?

According to the manual I found online, the display should have AR displayed to indicate remote air sensor or FR for floor sensor. If your bathroom one has just A then its on its own sensor and wrong. To change press M for 3 seconds and then use arrows to change and tick to accept. CS17-touchscreen-programmable-thermostat-Installation-guide.pdf

Full thread screws are convenient for general use but are significantly weaker in shear and bending due to the metal removed to form the helix. Also straight shank screws will pull pieces together (floor boards etc.) while full threads leave any gaps and simple pin the two parts where they are

As peter alluded to, if you do require a suds system it could be done in many ways, just depends on the amount of water you'd need to attenuate as to how feasible it is to do above ground in your situation. The tank that we ended up burying basically has a big hole for the rainwater to enter in from then a small hole half way up the tank for it to exit through which controls the discharge rate to meet the calcs provided and holds the set amount of water below the exit point back for the attenuated required amount and remaining capacity for the various 1/100 year events and so on.

Hi Jilly, re the calcs for suds, we had to install one in our build and a company called 'rainwater harvesting ltd -and Ian' produced the calcs for free on the back of a hopeful sale which he ended up with

I suspect there is going to be a surge of people complaining about ASHP in the very near future. The Government creating artificial drives to encourage uptake of renewables tends to lead to homeowners switching over with little understanding of what they are and to what homes/circumstances they are suited to. Unscrupulous installers don't care about the aftermath! Most people on here are focused on airtightness and insulation levels. In these circumstances I fail to see how they are nothing but a good option for providing both DHW and heating. I expect they are no different in terms of peaks and troughs in power usage than any other source when considered across the full 12 month weather cycle. With Solar PV you can then get around 3:1 output from any energy generated by panels and use the ASHP throughout the day rather than trying to confine yourself to off peak energy usage? Yes the initial infrastructure can require some capital outlay which some may balk at. Myself, I tend to take the line of it costs what it costs, I see the work I do know as putting in the infrastructure and then over the lifetime of me living there it will work out very cost effective, even taking ASHP lifetimes/ PV panel lifetimes into consideration. If any of them require changing it will not cost so much as the 'infrastructure' is there, its just parts change. I am in an all electric situation, with 280m2 to heat and DHW for 2 kids who like long showers to consider. An ASHP and PV makes sense to me.

Back in the 1980s I lived up country in Aylesbury. One very cold winter I thought my gas heating had gone wrong. House was chilly and the boiler was alight. Turned out it was undersized for those conditions. That is when I found that 10 quid fan heaters are brilliant for warming a place up quickly. (My original one has just packed up after 35 years, but it was my fault, opened a door into it and stopped the airflow)

£50 a week to heat what? floor area? heating only? Hot water too? internal temp set point? location in the uk? house construction? UFH/Rads? air tightness? insulation levels? large family/working from home?

The bad boys in !

Welcome. I am new here also but have planning consent for our new build. When we started out the first thing we did was arrange a quick free of charge meeting with the local planning department to discuss the location and basic ideas for our build. Whilst clearly they could not give a decision at that time they did say that they saw no reason why we should not pursue it further. They provided some pointers as to how it should comply with the neighbours etc. Whilst this might be currently difficult during Covid times for a face to face you may be able to get an online meeting arranged.

I am another who hates trickle vents. Expensive windows with sodding holes in. I found an artical several years ago stating that trickle vents were to ensure that gas, etc could escape from a house. I also demonstrated by way of a mates couple of pages of complicated Maths , how many times the air would be changed by people going in and out to work, the bins etc. The BC guy thought trickle vents were also rubbish, and looked crap. He was happy to accept all my justification for not fitting them, and signed me off.

I think the problem is language. it is hard to describe in words how it varies with time. But you know what, there is a second language that we all speak, with varying degrees of understanding. Mathematics, use it.

Have you done your own quote. Sit down, work out your thermal losses (you have the data already), then go looking for the parts.

Those black scouring pad looking things in a grinder are excellent for removing rust and scale. Then my choice would be to paint with a couple of coats of POR15 and something like Jotomastic (another epoxy mastic paint) on the inside and whatever colour you want outside over the POR15. (The POR15 is not UV stable so needs something to cover it.)

To claim full ownership would be very difficult. Typically you have to fence off the land "to the exclusion of all others" for 10/12 years. I believe allowing the owners of the other properties to continue to cross it would preclude this. I believe you are entitled to an easement "by perscription" (use over time). Have a look in here if not already seen. You will most likely need a solicitor withe experience in this area rather than a general conveyancing solicitor.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/easements-claimed-by-prescription/practice-guide-52-easements-claimed-by-prescription#:~:text=1.-,How prescriptive easements may be acquired,by lost modern grant

What’s above and below the Willis and the manifold pump ..?? Volume in that lot is naff all - pointless putting isolators in as you’ve got to drain down anyway and looks the quickest and easiest is the UFH manifold.

Wow! Beautiful windows and stunning house! Thank you for sharing

We were in a similar position Spent 20k (supply only) on sash windows and spoiled them with trickle vents We also researched MVR and decided against it My wife is pretty set against it for the next one So isn’t looking likely for that one either Thanks for your reply

One of the wettest around here for while.

I've finally got around to starting this blog. I'm hoping that it'll be easily updated and I'll provide lots of good pictures and info...we'll see how that goes. I'm at the point now where we have just taken our first big delivery, which is our insulated foundation system from Kore, this morning. So albeit, this process of building a house has been ongoing for some time, it has just become real that we are at the beginning of the build phase, which is very exciting. Some light background info - I've always wanted to build a house for the last 5-10 years, but it was a distant dream and wasn't quite sure how feasible it would be. I grew up in a rural house, my parents bought in 1983, modernised and updated over the years. It was a great childhood and spent many hours in the fields and in our garden, even just cutting the grass was fun (1 acre and a ride on mower). We sold that when I was 21 and ever since I've wanted to return to that life. I have two young kids of my own now and hence the want to return to the countryside to give them what I had was strong. I was always keen on building, swmbo, wasn't as such. So we searched and searched, but mostly the houses we could find that suited our needs were out of league (price!) and even if they were to be in our league there were things we would change or in the end it would be expensive to run. And hence that search helped my other half make the realisation that self build was our only option. My dad died in 2017 after a long illness with Dementia, a relief for him and for everyone else involved. We were very close and I took care of him day in and out, until he was in care. He was an engineer and had owned his own business since I was a child, albeit he lived a pretty simple life and was happy being at home in the garden he made and house he had renovated. Riding around on the ride on mower enjoying a quiet life...and now I guess that's exactly where I want to be. His passing left us with a little inheritance which has allowed this dream of self building to become a reality, I'm very thankful for this. I know it is something he would have been very excited to be part of and watch us do. So after messing around since 2017 and not being able to negotiate a plot or find one that was suitable (there's a lengthy thread on this!) I'd finally identified 4 acres in July 2019. It took a bit of time ( I had to confirm services and remove an Agricultural tie) but completed purchase in Jan 2020. I'll not cover the planning process in detail, but the plot had legacy planning permission which was 24 years old, but at that time the development had commenced and hence it was a straightforward change and submission of our designs. Building warrant was granted a week ago, with very little hassle really. I joined Buildhub in September 2019 or thereabouts. It's been a wealth of information that has helped me shape the design of the house and provided no end of guidance which I am very thankful for. It has allowed me to validate my opinions and approaches and learn from others to ensure i am following the right path. I started out prior to buildhub wanting a SIPS house, in fact googling that may have made me find my way here. Quickly I decided I wanted an insulated foundation too, I went around in circles a little bit with both of these decisions and reading others opinions on here. I even thought at one point they would both be too expensive for me , however I sit here writing this first post having taken delivery of my insulated foundation today and my SIPS kit is on order and due sometime in February. I don't actually need the insulated foundation till mid-late January but made a decision to get it in the country before Brexit issues occur and tariffs are possibly applied in January (rumoured at 6%). I'm very glad I made that decision as today our new strain of COVID has caused everyone to close the doors to us here in the UK, another couple of days and god knows when I would have gotten it. There is lots of other decisions and stuff has gone on in the background with planning and mortgages and budgets to get here, but that is mostly done and hence I feel this is the end of the beginning and now we can enter the start of the middle.... I'm very pleased and excited for the road ahead. I like pictures in blogs....here's a few of the Insulated foundation delivery today. Stored at a friends farm for the time being. It's being stored outside, has a few tractor tyres on it now to stop it blowing away and the main pallets are all strapped down. That's me standing on top.......

We have a split level house so there are similar changes in level under our house. I was also concerned about water penetration. Built a french drain...We dug regular foundation trenches and filled them with concrete then we built brick and block walls up above the high side. These block walls were tanked on the outside with a paint on rubber tanking solution down to and including the tops of the concrete. Then a sand blind and a perforated pipe in gravel were installed before back filling. The drain pipe led to the rest of the rainwater collection system.

You can get plinth bricks that have a 45 degree sloping top. You run a strip of lead flashing behind the timber cladding (and any membrane) down onto the plinth bricks, out and about 1" down the sloping part. This helps stops frost damage to the top of the bricks. An alternative to plinth bricks is to use some slate set on a mortar bed but plinth bricks are better in my opinion.

If this is a G3 certifiable UVC install then there's far more to it Options are.... 1) new install. 2) retro fit. 1).... Stopcock. NRV. Drain-off cock. NOTE: This is where you should now tee off for the outside tap so it is not affected by the pressure relief valve. Ensure that the outside tap has an integral non-return valve. Pipework to UVC location. Cold feed to multi-block with a local isolation immediately prior to. ( 22mm 1/4 turn lever valve ). Multi-block located within 500mm of the UVC it serves ( G3 / manufacturer requirement ). Balanced cold feeds all to be fed from the balanced output of the multi-block ( mixer taps / shower valves / thermostatic devices etc ). Therefore no requirement for non-return valves on any mixed feed outlets as all mixers will be at the same potential, regardless of static or dynamic fluctuation. 2).... Stopcock. NRV. Drain-off cock. Secondary Pressure Reducing Valve ( in addition to the manufacturer supplied one which has to be mounted at the UVC position as stated above ( so no, you can't nick it and fit it here )). Pipework to UVC location. Cold feed to multi-block with a local isolation immediately prior to. ( 22mm 1/4 turn lever valve ). All house water pressure is governed by the secondary PRV so the cold feeds can be tapped into anywhere in the house without causing pressure differential issues between hot and cold whatsoever. Hot outlet of UVC MUST have a single check non-return valve in line with flow. This is a final failsafe for instances where the secondary PRV fails and mixer taps then can back feed the UVC and over pressurise it to the point of failure. Retro fit only. Failure to adhere to these particulars is what keeps me in a job .