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  1. As above here is a photo of the sill, it has a lip at the back which I assume is where the sealant (or whatever it is) is packed against under the pvc sill.
  2. @SuperPav thanks for your detailed response much appreciated. I have attached a photograph of a typical window on our house to show the full layout. As @craig mentions the window sits on the concrete sill and is packed underneath. I think the ‘weakest link’ is the gap as shown in the above photo attached previously now I look more into it. I have old cuts of the concrete sills which were us to get a better understanding of the profile. I will try get a photo and post up later.
  3. Thank you. I keep hearing the product EverBuild 825 when researching sealing joints/pvc windows etc - Would this be the same? Looking further into sealing windows this morning I now have concerns regarding the outer gap around the pvc window has been sealed with incorrect or inadequate sealant - I know from memory it was from the Soudal range - FixAll Crystal looks familiar, would this be adequate? https://www.soudal.co.uk/pro/products/adhesives/bonding-and-construction-adhesives/fix-all-crystal
  4. Excellent thank you for the confirmation, any sort of gap around a window seems suspicious to me. Can you recommend what type of sealant to use? The sealant/mastic/cement stuff which has been used underneath is not rock hard, it seems to be soft like a hard putty. The gap between the bottom of the PVC sill and concrete sill is around 3/4 inch. I have always had my concerns on the fitment of the windows but as ever it slips your mind until the winter comes along! I can get a wider photo later for more context.
  5. Hello, We currently had some issues with one our windows letting rain water through, it only seems to happen in high winds - I know this as it happened soon as they were installed and was told it was rectified. Low and behold we just had very high winds and rain a year on after fitting and our carpet is soaked at two spots. These are gable windows on the first floor which are floor to ceiling height. I am trying to determine where the water is finding it’s way in. Having a look today and noticed underneath the pvc sill they seem to have used some sort of mastic/putty (can anyone tell me what this is?). There seems to be a hairline crack between the pvc sill and the sealant, would water penetrate through here and inside? Or is it more likely to be the join/gap between the window frame on top of the pvc sill? The water leak is not visible from the inside, it appears to be soaking the chipboard flooring below the carpet. Note this is not at the corners, only in the middle. Thanks for any advice!
  6. @SuperJohnGWe were in this predicament exactly a year ago…we decided to go with the Skyforce system, looks excellent and worth the extra money. https://www.glassparts.co.uk/on-level-skyforce-balcony-system
  7. Thanks that makes sense. Yes generally we shower in the evening after work. Going back to the efficiency part, do you feel the cost difference would be negligible with us heating the entire tank (or in other words leave timer on long enough to reach this point) or continue to only heat a portion of the tanks capacity? The initial heat up would be expensive I assume given we technically have never had the entire tank fully heated, however I would assume this would level out after a period of time. In theory if we currently have say 20% of the tank hot after our daily heat up, this will deplete before the next heating cycle after showering etc. Now the next day it would need to heat up 100% of cold water in the tank to give us 20% hot water - Would this be less efficient than the other option of heating the entire tank every day (in theory the ratio of hot to cold water would be higher before heating i.e. 80% hot water)...no idea if that makes any sense what so ever ? I guess the only way to find out would be to try it...
  8. Thanks @JohnMo Well this is what im trying to get my head around (plumbing confuses me slightly ). The thermostat is located about 1/3rd of the way up from the bottom of the tank - does this mean the temp at that location is not actually what the temperature would be at the top/hot water outlet?
  9. Hi Folks, We currently have a 300l tank heated by a Grant Aerona 17kw ASHP. Given the size of the tank (designed as per the size of the house at 4 bedrooms) which is currently 'overkill' at the moment due to only the two of us in the house, what is the most efficient method to heat our water? The hot water is controlled via a programmable timer which is set to come on every day (at noon as I guessed this is when the room heating is less likely to be required) for around 45 minutes. This time was just a 'rough guess' from when we moved in to our new build approximately 8 months ago. This has served us well and provided enough hot water for the both of us. My question is do I continue to set the timer for the 45 minutes OR do I increase the time to allow the entire tank to heat to the set temperature on the tank thermostat at 50 degrees? What would be deemed more efficient? From what I can gather the heat loss for our tank is 2.7kw @ 60 degrees if that helps
  10. @bluebellcottage We actually went with buildstore/buildloan for our mortage and we are glad of it, they made the process very simple. Yes the fees are high, especially the 'Additional Security Fee', however by taking some of the stress off our shoulders helped us focus on the build. The advisors are very keyed up on the self build world and know the in's and out's of all the potential issues which may arise. The only negative was a failure to express we would need to show a 10% contingency during our application, I can only assume this was a simply mistake on their behalf however 10% of build costs is rather large! They particularly made the re-mortgage process at the end very simple (I was dreading this part). A potential issue came up with our solicitor during our application which would have stopped any 'day to day' broker with our land ownership. One call to buildloan and they knew exactly what to do from previous experience and all was fixed! If you can afford the fees I suggest to go with them and focus your time on the build to be honest!
  11. I think for the size of the curtain the weight could be an issue although like you say maybe they are worth a try! I think I might go order some now....
  12. Hey Folks, One of the less pressing issues in life but we need curtains! We have a large gable window and wish to hang curtains on the 'bottom half' (5 vertical windows), this issue being we need a fixing in the middle of the span which is 4.30 metres across between the walls, obviously the curtains need support in the middle of this. The only solution I can see is to fix the curtain pole bracket to the reinforcement beam which travels horizontally across the entire span which separates the top and bottom of the gable window. This beam is covered in plastic cover and is made of metal. My question is do you think this is a good idea drilling into this beam? It would only be for 3 screws, I was thinking those self taping techfast screws... I have attached pictures to help explain myself better!
  13. Thanks guys I assume its easy to take the box off? Do you know if the slats can be replaced? The dent is so noticeable from the outside!
  14. Hey folks, So much to my disappointment at the weekend I have noticed my new Hormann Rollmatic doors (one in particular) seems to be damaging itself. I have only been using these for a couple of months now and there is scratches on the slats. Much to my horror I then noticed two small dents on the outside! I have now stopped using the door with the dents, its almost as if something has come off inside the mechanism and got trapped between the slats when closing. Has anyone had experience with this before? I realise there will be some light scratches being a roller door however at this rate the door will be wrecked in a few months! I really want to get this resolved asap as its a pain not having access. Is there anything I can do or look for which may be causing this problem? Typically the company who installed them are on holiday! Below are photos of the one door inside and outside...
  15. One other question I had is given we have a 100kVA transformer how does this effect the power available at each phase? If this was a 50kVA transformer for example what different would this make to the available power at each phase?
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