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About CC45

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  1. I fitted deep flow gutters and despite some big roof areas & 45deg roof (design had 2 downpipes per section but I only put one in) - no probs with overflowing under v v heavy rain. Wont be using normal gutters in future.
  2. Room thermostats

    I was hoping to use the same wunda stats that we have down stairs and the wunda wiring centre. I will ask at TP. I can never get any sensible prices from them though.
  3. Room thermostats

    So does anyone know of an adaptor from 16mm wunda pipe to 15mm? I assume any wiring centre will work with any manifold actuators and room stats? Cheers
  4. Gravity water system

    Try agric outlets - hypochlorite is used by dairy farmers to clean the pipes that carry milk between the milking parlour and the bulk tank.
  5. Extra insulation

    DO NOT put 140mm celotex into a 140mm frame. I did this - never again. The celotex sheets vary in thickness - a surprising number were more than 140mm, this causes BIG issues when you come to putting battens on. I've spent hours, in fact weeks putting spacers behind the battens to lift then off the frame - all because of the celotex. I would urge you to use 120mm. The celotex web site has a u-value calc on it - 20mm less wont make much difference but it WILL save your sanity. I was given this advice before I ordered our celotex and like an idiot I ignored it. I dont want you to make the same mistake I did.
  6. Room thermostats

    My wallet started having fits when I looked at the price of those trench heaters. Her in doors doesnt like then - what a relief. Does any one know if Hep2o pipe will fit into the wunda ufh manifold? Or would you use ufh pipe (with copper connected for the visible sections?). I think the wunda mixing valve is good for up to 70deg, so it could be a viable option. Hoping Telford cylinder will be sorted this week - I'm hoping to pick them up before the weekend at the latest. Need to crack on with the heating then. CC
  7. Room thermostats

    Just resurecting a previous thread. Time to purchase the manifold etc for the radiators upstairs. So two quotes so far - one using an Emmeti LS radiator manifold and the other using a Disman LS radiator manifold. Emmeti seems to be a well known brand - has anyone heard of Disman. I noticed that the Wundu ufh manifold has a blending valve that goes from 30 to 70oC - does anyone know of a reason as to why I cannot use one of their ufh manifolds? Any other thoughts on using an ufh manifold? Thanks CC
  8. @ProDave looking sharp. Was looking back through your blog - what did you use to connect the distribution box to the mvhr box? What is the external insulation that you've fitted? Still on my to do list. Thanks cc
  9. Door Sets - What about linings?

    I wasnt planning on putting door linings in before skimming. I just need to make sure the gaps are roughly the correct size - it would be annoying having to add a bit of plasterboard & skimming that afterwards.
  10. Internal fall protection

    We hired in fall arest bags - timber frame company requirement. Never saw one being used. They left one behind - makes a useful seat on site.
  11. Finding the Level

    We are building tf with brick exterior, Ive been surprised how much stuff can be out - Ive used a lot of spacers battening out, but have accepted that the floors upstairs arent as level as I wanted. Like a few others here, if I do this again I suspect it will be a block & brick job but with a wide & filled cavity. Every trade seems to know problems exist but seem to expect the next trade to sort it out.
  12. Fitting a 2nd Hand UPVC Door

    Ive done 3 plastic doors - the most harrowing experience Ive ever had on site. Vowed never again - and I havent. It was great watching the professionals doing it. The frame has no real structural strength so it just flexes all over the place. Wooden frames and doors are easy in comparison. Good luck!
  13. Photo of more flint work

    You must have a lot of patience. Looks really good.
  14. Help me out of these holes, please!

    Farmers I've know use short lengths of water pipe around the threaded bar. Leaving it in after the shuttering comes down.