CC45

OK, not had any company involved so not seen that detail before.

agreed - I wasn't talking about the vapour aspects of PIR. I was just wondering about the temperature of the vapour as it 'flows' through the wall, where will the dew point occur? Will it be within the wall structure? Need @Jeremy Harris to chip in on this I think. I'm sure the outside layer should have the highest insulation value fo rthis reason. I could be wrong.

looks ok to me (not an expert). The only thought I have is about the PIR on the inside of the rockwool - if you are layering different types of insulation aren't you meant to have the best insulator on the outside? This could be complete rubbish but its in my head for some reason. Others more informed than me will know the truth I'm sure...

Our arrives 2 weeks ago - well packaged. They give you 7 to 10 days to check them all & inform them of any issues. I wouldn't leave them unchecked. I had 3 queries about mine - replacement units are on their way. Good service.

@NickB Interesting thread here - Once its finalised could you upload it? Looking to improve what we've done this time in the next one....

OK, ignore my comments.

the metal web ones we had put in at 600mm centres I wish we had put them at 400mm centres...... I like a nice solid floor.

Sounds tricky tbh. Power from a garage? w

our pressure went up & down a lot with what I thought was small changes in temp. Suspect that's what going is going on with yours. You bleed off some water & then when the weather cools it drops even further!

Looks tidy. Decorators caulk won't like any wet on it - its not silicone. What about some wood filler? https://www.screwfix.com/p/ronseal-high-performance-wood-filler-natural-550g/51811

Personally I would make it 6" deep (as long as you have already removed any topsoil) and twice the width of the proposed wall. No to cavity. I would fill the void with clean materials you have about - left over bricks, blocks etc - I would personally bed these in place (4:1 sand : cement mix) - straight onto a compacted base. I then put a concrete skin ~ 3" over the top of this rubble - to give a solid surface to walk on while you wait for slabs to be laid. If you haven't got rubble around then I'd do a weak (6:1) mix of ballast to cement. Just my opinion.

get the original file off them and then you can get someone with CAD to take some accurate measurements if you need to.

same around here .... there doesn't seem to be any stocks about so everyone is happy to pay whatever just to get hold of stuff. There seems to be lots of rumours around here suggesting a bit of a downturn is on the way in building - many seem to be making employed staff redundant and using self employed people (same blokes) - so the price increases may need to be reversed at some point....

Remember that land registry is not the source of definitive boundaries - it just shows that there is a boundary in that approx area. There are lots of mistakes on their database. We were told that whats on the ground is the actual boundary. Prob not what you wanted to hear. We got our plot surveyed and triangulated off neighbouring buildings (that had been up for Q a while) and this helped our case. Surveyer & good CAD person. Good luck.

I tile the lot 1st: 1. If you ever change the units / design there are no issues with the floor. 2. Fitting the plinth will require it to be cut because the unit legs will be below the finished floor height - you could jack these up further if you wanted to I guess. 3. Your carpenter is right.