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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/11/25 in all areas

  1. Do you need to do that, do your own risk assessment. Plenty of information on here and heat geek website If you have a cheap mixer they are generally pretty rubbish is you don't deliver 70 Deg water to them. I ended up deleting the mixer and pump. Open it up fully and see what happens. You really need to assess if you need 40 Deg flow? You either need weather compensation mode or a lower fixed flow temp. The lower the output flow temp from the heat pump the better the CoP. Switch all immersion heaters off and see what happens.
    2 points
  2. Aluminium clad timber, triple glazed. im in awe of our windows every morning when the condensation is on the outside and the inner frame and glass are actually warm to the touch.
    2 points
  3. Yes @iSelfBuild. We are here to advise but not design. The advice now is that it can be done and that you need professional advice and more money than you first hoped.
    2 points
  4. Hi @iSelfBuild Items you may wish to consider.. Soil mechanics! Load baring capacity of the Soil Slip plane Heave Full design details of existing retaining wall (survey may be required) Existing services. Old and new drainage. Localised flooding Leylandii hedge is known for its shallow but wide root system, depending on the soil and the variety of leylandii. Permitted development rules. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/permitted-development-rights-for-householders-technical-guidance Who owns the retaining wall Conversation with the neighbours Undermining the stability of the existing retaining wall whilst your gym vibrates as you pump ironšŸ¤£ Yes this is the problem. Without a drawing with accurate dimensions (not a scaled drawing)written on it, with both horizontal and vertical distances, ideas given could be excellent or Ballox and pictures of the walls really help. (is the retaining wall vertical or leaning towards your drive at the top?) In my opinion a raft foundation is more likely to cause heave or lateral pressure on the retaining wall. Good luck Marvin
    2 points
  5. Some things are just TOO difficult. Easy to detect a moving person , stationary is another matter ! ( no pun intended) . Aqara fp2 is the best I have found , but some ghosting ; Iā€™m in the kitchen with apparently another person . I leave kitchen and ghostie doesnā€™t . So as usual Iā€™ve tried every sensor I can find . But ! I think Iā€™ve found the perfect one ( at the moment ) The everything presence 1 . Ultimate test ! Sat on sofa watching projector no one moving ā€¦.. still detects presence ! Awesome ! As Iā€™m open plan itā€™s fine for the lounge because itā€™s at the back of the house . So no zoning etc required . Kitchen and diner need zones otherwise youā€™ll be able to trigger one from the neighboring zone . So 2 presence sensors lite on the way . No pir , but zoning . Will test against fp 2 . But as most of you arenā€™t open plan - esp1 is the best ! https://everythingsmarthome.co.uk
    1 point
  6. For ages I have felt quite cold sitting next to our patio doorsšŸ„¶, but I love sitting there to watch the birds outside. However, i finally really looked today and after feeling a cold breeze/draught in the corners, i got out the thermal camera and found in the actual corner, it was down to 1oC, its minus 5oC outside. So I pulled back the carpet and trim and found large gaps at the side. I watched the guys instal the doors in 2019 and saw them spraying in expanding foam around the frame itself so thought that should be okay. But it must have left some gaps. I have been out and bought some Polyfilla expanding foam and sprayed it into the gaps. I shall let you know how much of a change it is, after it dries and I get it all trimmed, ready for the carpet and trim. šŸ˜If it works, i may have to look for more areas to fill - dont want to waste the majority of the can and I hate draughts!
    1 point
  7. If you search amongst @JamesPa's posts about a year ago there was a lot of discussion about various possible measures including commercially available enclosures (v expensive) and mats behind the HP. Also as you have found, the most objectionable noise only occurs in the top 10 - 15% or so of the power range. Is there any way of limiting the output power somewhat whilst still leaving enough to keep you warm, perhaps with slightly longer heating times? Might be labelled Current Limit or Noise Reduction Mode.
    1 point
  8. When using mf Donā€™t forget to buy a couple of welding clamps Clamp all metal to metal
    1 point
  9. Haha no, itā€™s all good šŸ‘
    1 point
  10. Dee is a she lol, IIRC.
    1 point
  11. Just a heads-up, if going around squirting foam into every nook and cranny you should really be using a closed cell foam which won't bridge damp or wick moisture Illbruck 330 is my favoured product, which is also rated as air tight too. Completely different beast when cured also, and cures much hardier and more resilient imo. Random grab: https://www.fixingsstore.com/illbruck-fm330-pro-expanding-foam-air-seal/p/5519?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyoi8BhDvARIsAO_CDsDsUOSd1ufBQNY2aiJoovQP-mt6AUDHFNJm0pC2UxkeJ-7QR_AXukIaAvhFEALw_wcB
    1 point
  12. Iā€™ve got the B01 model, same manufacturer
    1 point
  13. I have opened up the the mixer to max and am going to let it settle overnight. I get daily readings so I would like to see what difference that makes - then I will lower the water if the house stays warm - but it's good to know that you keep a barn warm on 30C - I shall set it as a target to meet šŸ™‚
    1 point
  14. Thatā€™s better. carry on sir.
    1 point
  15. What I did, now curious to see @nod response what I did do, was make any joints so they all didnā€™t appear in a line so on one row of mf7 the join would be near one wall, and the next row, the mf7 join would be near tā€™ other wall
    1 point
  16. All the holes with cables emerging will surely be finished off with a back box etc. That does not leave much else that cannot be filled with filler and as it won't be seen you don't need to be particular. Where filler will be present and painted, you must hope your decorator finished that off properly. There are many fillers that can be sanded so anyone should be able to fill a hole such that it cannot be seen once painted.
    1 point
  17. TBH your lucky you even have plaster, Iā€™ve seen some horrible things behind kitchen units. bare walls, half plastered, dead rats. once the kitchen is in surely you wonā€™t see any of this, however I can see you point about creatures. talk to the electrician and get him to slide a short piece of flexible conduit over the wires, then use expanding foam to seal the hole up.
    1 point
  18. This is what jumps out at me. By not using the rads the UFH has more work to do so the flow temp through it has to be higher lowering your COP. The most efficient systems I read about have everything open so lots of water running at low temp to heat the place. Oh and welcome to the forum šŸ™‚
    1 point
  19. That COP is so low, that I think something odd is happening, as opposed to the usual high flow temperature at the ashp. I think ostensibly it suggests an average COP of (124+38)/124 =1.3. This may or may not include the weekly immersion use. You donā€™t complain of a cold house; in this weather if the COP were actually that low Iā€™m surprised the unit can actually warm the house sufficiently. Has it always been like this? Suggestions to try: I note that 124kWh elec in a cold week is not insane - can you calculate your heat loss in kW, see how it compares to an hour of the generate+consumption at the design external temperature? Fit an independent mid-certified elec meter to the ashp, and also a heat meter - more effort this, but will give a believable COP. Eg opentherm.
    1 point
  20. It comes in different sizes and is flexible so it might bend round the pipe enough https://www.armacell.com/sites/g/files/vzwtwi156/files/2025/01/09/ArmaFlex Tuffcoat - Product Brochure - en-GB.pdf
    1 point
  21. Iā€™ve been doing exactly the same this winter, decided to buy a very similar model of camera to you. Be warnedā€¦it becomes rather addictive! šŸ˜‚ Iā€™ve found a few air leaks I didnā€™t know were there, and a few areas where Iā€™d not settled the insulation quite right leaving thin areas, all really easily sorted with the thermal camera
    1 point
  22. Why not use white square section downpipe with the pipe inside and some lagging shoved in.
    1 point
  23. The stuff I linked is waterproof and can be installed underground so is robust. Assuming itā€™s UV stable just fit that. Quickest and easiest way to deal with the problem.
    1 point
  24. Then no way do you need 15kW even at 510mĀ². I'm close to 200mĀ² and about 3.5kW at -9. If you have done min building regs and min airtightness (leaks like a seize), you may getting close. But YOU need to do proper heat loss calculation, so you know for sure. Use this spreadsheet
    1 point
  25. Once insulation gets (even slightly) wet then the U-value collapses. I would route the pipe vertically, and box it in with a mineral packing in between the pipe and the boxing.
    1 point
  26. Good catch. If you have an imaging camera like yours, then you really should have a systematic explore around house, especially around all fenestration edges and corners, so you know where you bridges and air leaks are. Fixing them can often be simple and cheap -- just tedious; this can save a lot on your heating bills as well as addressing mould and damp issues. Don't forget to wrap up and do the same from the outside looking at the fabric. This will sometimes catch thermal leaks / bridges that aren't too visible from the interior check.
    1 point
  27. The dearer stuff will last and is wipe clean. No idea about that cheap stuff. Does it say anywhere itā€™s suitable for exterior use? You could wrap the pipe in something to insulate it then fit a larger diameter plastic pipe over the top although youā€™d need to figure out how to seal to the wall.
    1 point
  28. In cold weather it is normal for an MVHR to ice up and therefore need to defrost itself. It does that by reverse cycling for a few minutes to heat the outside heat exchanger to melt the ice. Condensation from that just drips out of the bottom. If it is dripping continuously you might have a problem but say once an hour in this weather, nothing to worry about. Temperatures close to 0 are the worst for this, when it gets really cold and stays below 0 even in the day, there is not enough moisture in the cold air to condense and freeze.
    1 point
  29. You can get the black nitrile rubber insulation with a white protective cover like this: https://www.pipelagging.com/armaflex-tuffcoat-class-o-1m-white-28mm-19mm-wall-underground-waterproof-pipe-insulation?srsltid=AfmBOorjDZqXxvhA4ncqCTJhwnkkGrjYJS5jkSnYEYYL3YjwWHPgkglh
    1 point
  30. Chat JothPT... To prevent an external condensation pipe from freezing, here are a few measures you can take: 1. **Insulation**: Wrap the pipe with foam pipe insulation or heating tape. This will help maintain the temperature above freezing by providing an extra layer of protection against the cold. 2. **Use a Heated Cable**: Install a self-regulating heating cable along the pipe. These cables will heat up when the temperature drops and can prevent the pipe from freezing. 3. **Redirect the Pipe**: If possible, reroute the pipe to a more sheltered or warmer location, such as along an interior wall or within the house, where temperatures are less likely to drop too low. 4. **Maintain Flow**: Ensure the pipe is not completely blocked and allows for continuous drainage. Stagnant water is more likely to freeze, so encouraging a small, consistent flow can help. 5. **Cover the Pipe**: Install a protective cover or duct around the pipe, which can help shield it from harsh weather conditions and wind chill. 6. **Regular Maintenance**: Check the pipe periodically to ensure itā€™s not accumulating debris or ice, which can block the flow and contribute to freezing. By combining some or all of these approaches, you can effectively prevent your external condensation pipe from freezing during the colder months.
    1 point
  31. Money is no problem, It just might make sense to make a partial basement on my extension instead of the garage where I was first thinking. Extension is 100m2 don't quite need that big of a man cave though! I'll let the structural engineer advise on suitability just floating ideas for now šŸ‘ If I do build something on the drive I will likely keep the garage at under 30m2 and 1m away from the boundary to avoid a load of bollox so it's outside of planning and regulations.
    1 point
  32. As said above it's got to be down to budget. I did get some prices for triple glazed timber /Ali however the quote was around 1/3 of our build cost (including the triple glazed UPVC we went for). My view was UPVC hinges, beads etc are easily changeable if needed. I do wish I'd selected a different front door, I went for a slam lock composite door, this was a big mistake with the high winds we get. But you live and learn.
    1 point
  33. @LnP thanks for that link. I was not aware of this document so will read it thoroughly later. It's a great example of what I was going to say which is basically...it is complicated and ultra important. i have designed and built buildings for decades. Hundreds. I thought I was expert on fire risk. One of our steel buildings was exposed to extreme fire and the fire chief said he'd never seen such good resistance. And yet, when I went on a 3 day intensive course I learnt much more. Professors study nothing else, and what we see in the regulations is a summary. Building inspectors rightly want to see proven constructions as any variation creates a risk. That can be frustrating when you have a special circumstance of a 'great idea' but safety must come first. Why should they accept a variation. Even so, we find that kingspan and celotex ( do i say allegedly still?) cheated their fire tests. @ARC GuitarsWhat are you paying the bco? Typically about Ā£1000 for the whole project. That is what 4 days of a tradesperson will cost, or 1 day max of a professional designer. The bco is not your designer. On the positive side. A timber housing estate here won't burn like in Los Angeles. Timber needs air flow if it is to blaze and spread. Working to the regulations prevents that.
    1 point
  34. Try units and appliances on only the window wall and the 1340 wall opposite so they're left and right as you walk in. Then maybe on the facing wall you can have something that folds out. Fridge, sink, WM on window wall. Cupboards either side of cooker on 1340 wall. All with cupboards above
    1 point
  35. Looking at your new drawings with the old approval on it, your argument looks fine to me.
    1 point
  36. Shop around You May get a design that includes what you want Rather than what they think you want
    1 point
  37. Your back to the same thing again BUDGET If budget isnā€™t an issue All of the above PVC with good U values are fine I almost went for Alli But couldnā€™t justify the 70k price tag Half the purchase price of the plot For just windows
    1 point
  38. The wall unit above the sink and next to the window really closes the space down. Is there any way to avoid putting that in?
    1 point
  39. Welcome to the land of BH! It's doable! Ah! If it's any help I do this as a day job. The poor performance, basic lack of knowledge about the construction / design industry, professional standards in terms of communication from say Planners and BC is astounding at times. In mitigation they are starved of funds so there is no time for them to learn these basic skills. And the liabilities are big! My PI (Professional Indemnity) insurer has a long list of questions about just what I'm designing in terms of fire protection. They need to understand how much risk I'm taking on and their exposure. In general BC officers just don't hold the required PI cover these days. Many Architect's are nervious.. and rightly so as fire protection is linked to structural design. It might kind of work like this for Heb Homes. But they may be able to shed more light on this. It works for me. Here is a rough summary of the things we need to think about when building something near a boundary. In Scotland / kind of rest of UK. If something is closer than 1.0m from the boundary we need to stop flames and sparks from jumping over the boundary and setting light to the house next door. We call this fire integrity. For example if you have steel cladding then if the seams of the panels come apart then sparks and flames come out which can jump the boundary. Another part is what we call "fire resistance. Here we want to stop the wall from heating up so it radiates heat, like an electric fire too close to the bed. The fire intergrity and resistance are then combined to give you the overall fire rating of say a wall. That's a rough summary. If more than 1.0 m it gets easier in terms of complaince. Some structural design stuff relating to fire: The easy way to explain (laymans terms) this is that we need to make sure the structure is protected enough so you can get out if a fire starts. Hence the 15 min and 30 min you see. But we also need to make sure the structure does not fall on the Fire Brigade. Many of these folk have lost their lives trying to protect badly designed properties and industrial buildings. Here lies one big issue. There is no standard detail for this. I do a lot of refurbs / conversions etc and and many of these are timber frame / light weight construction. I adopt this approach as often I get to reuse existing founds and so on. When adding an extra storey to a building I often look at how much load I can remove first and then see what I can add back in without having to say strengthen the existing founds. But this leads to odd sized cavities (we are building off an old cavity wall maybe) that we need to ventilate. But we also need to fire protect the wall panels.. often called fire stopping. It the cavity is fairly normal 50 - 60mm I may use an intumescent fire stop strip like say TENMAT which gives me the ventilation but also stops fire spread. But this has limitations. If the cavity is say 145mm then we need to block a bit of that off ( say with good solid timber ) but still keep enough ventilation for day to day perfomance. I'm just touching on some of the complexity. BC just can't give you this kind of advice / take liability for the amount of money you are probably paying them.
    1 point
  40. They don't want to see windows above the hedge, but in the next breath one of them objects to the large gate, and wants it removed. Won't they see the house then šŸ¤” Their objections are full of contradictions and inconsistencies when compared to the original application.
    1 point
  41. (Unfortunately your pre-app advice has probably reduced the sale value somewhat) Seek permission for a solar farm maybe, including a couple of outbuildings?
    1 point
  42. Somebody - maybe us, needs to put together a briefing paper / manifesto / letter to HMG via the MPs and the PM to let them know what's going on, why it's all wrong and offer some solutions. We could probably send a letter to the majority of MPs, we all live in a constituency somewhere don't we. The challenge will be getting us all to agree what needs to be said.
    1 point
  43. Well done. I hope you've got a nice new boundary fence between A & B on the plans !!!!. Glad you got that saga sorted out in the end so you could get a design together.
    1 point
  44. Congratulations @mjc55! Care to share your plans? I followed the boundary dispute thread with interest and always wondered what you were building!
    1 point
  45. It's plastic, called monarflex. It's terrible for condensation.
    1 point
  46. I don't know why there's such a fixation on the heating system for new build. If they were built properly it really wouldn't make much difference because the heat demand would be so low. It would be better to just fix the problem at source.
    1 point
  47. I have the same prejudice. Cylinders are readily available and understood by any plumber. Monobloc heat pumps and the bits that go immediately with them are a bit specialist. So keep them separate in my personal opinion. The wall mounted unit (as opposed to the one with the integral cylinder) does keep them separate, albeit splitting the monobloc (some call this arrangement a 'hydrosplit') Really its just a box for the pump, control unit and diverter valve which is OK by me. The control unit and diverter valve are pretty much always separate (and sensibly so) and its not unknown for the pump to be separate (Mitsubishi, for example, don't the pump in the external unit). So putting these three components together in a metal box isnt silly One further thing to note about the 'total' - like a 'pre plumbed cylinder' its possibly a 'cover' for the intent to use rookie plumbers. By using a pre-plumbed cylinder a few of the possible mistakes that rookie plumbers can make are avoided. This is all personal preference stuff however and considerations of the available space. If you want an 'airing cupboard' as a by product of DHW, you are going to want a separate cylinder.
    1 point
  48. Not really a fan of manufactures that are really offering a monobloc ASHP, but purposely split it, to ensure they get you to purchase everything from them. Heat pump life say 15 years, cylinder should last a life time, what happens when you heat pump needs to be replaced, do you also have to replace the cylinder?
    1 point
  49. FFS NO, NO ,NO ,NO. I TOLD YOU WHAT TO USE, WHY DO YOU WANT TO USE SOME GASH DOWN PIPE.
    0 points
  50. Get some white air conditioner outdoor trunking, itā€™s the stuf they use to put air on pipes inside, lag that shit pipe you installed and put it inside a nice neat white trunking, it comes with nice radius bends and all sorts of stuff. f##rk me got you out of trouble again šŸ˜˜
    0 points
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