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About iSelfBuild

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    Dumfries & Lancashire

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  1. Hi Ian, I can recommend this local company for quality work -
  2. I know my windows aluminium cladding are held on via plastic locking brackets which you can un-lock by inserting a special spanner (which you have to grind down so it's super thin), quarter turning and they disengage. Extremely fiddly job but a nice design feature for this occurrence. From memory I don't think there is room to get a special spanner down and quarter turn them off with Rationals. I don't think they are quarter turn brackets and just lock on ones. Is it a fixed unit or an opener? Our fixed are internally beaded as once fitted you cant get a spanner in due to it being berried in the reveals. Openers you can take it out and take off the cladding easily. Had to do this recently as a joiner walked a scaffold prop into the aluminium cladding on a nice new set of bi-folds, thankfully no smashed glass. Probably have to trash the aluminium cladding to sort this one.
  3. You could, I just don't think most people would know where to start and probably not worth the stress and hassle of achieving compliance - for someone in the trade with a VAT registered company it's not too hard. No there isn't a mechanism as far as I'm aware as a self-builder, they would have to be a legitimate VAT registered company. The reason I suggested it is because the OP is paying for builders and not self-building so it might be a good idea for him.
  4. Thanks! Yes he did inspect it all and said it was in very good condition, weight off my mind. Selling houses is bloody stressful.
  5. In 2017 I had a log burner fitted in an open fire place. All work was done by a HETAS engineer and the accompanying report filed. I note at the time he persuaded us not to have a flu liner or system installed so that section is left blank. We are just selling our house and I'm now anxious that maybe this wasn't installed compliantly after a comment from the estate agent asking if there was a liner installed 😑
  6. I design and build log cabins in accordance with the caravan act. If you are planning to put it through as a caravan then you will have to prove it complies and that it's capable of being moved. If your using a lightweight wall system, then the very simplest way will be to build off a rolling chassis - a 6 x 17m one will costs about £2,500.00 delivered. Good luck if your local council get interested and start asking questions. I had structural calculations commissioned proving my very heavy cabins can be lifted by a ”MIStructE” (this was requested) engineer and had to put together a comprehensive method statement demonstrating how it complies and meets the caravan act and I suggest you should get this accepted by your local planning and building control to prevent future complications. BS3632 is not that hard to achieve. In terms of VAT form a LTD company, voluntarily register for VAT - claim VAT back on all materials and zero rate the supply of the caravan (not groundworks, removable goods etc) - not sure HMRC will like people openly doing this and if you are not achieving BS3632 in every way it should not be 0% rated so it could get you in bother.
  7. As Dave says get a convection stove and it resolves this distance issue, use these in my cabins. Contura has some nice modern convection stoves
  8. The window head board looks like it sits directly underneath the cladding, when you have driving wind and rain won't it run down the cladding above and track back into the property or is it angled? It's not uncommon for the larch to split and crack when drying out. We screwed all of our cladding so we can remove each piece. Eventually going to replace a few boards that have bad splits but there is not many. I did the window head like this:
  9. That makes 100% logic 😊 But how do you calculate the volume or should I say displacement of gravel? The chap at the top (screen print) had Aggregate void at 30%... So 1.32 m3 x 3.33333* = 4.39 m3 I would say that is a very suitable sized soakaway???
  10. Thank you, I'm still a bit confused. This calculation seems to suggest 1.32m3 is big enough but it doesn't say if this is for crate systems where there is a big void or if it's for granular rock infilled soakaways.
  11. Any ideas how I take the m3 area and convert that into a real life sized drainage pit? I can't get my head round why the one I posted initially was specified at 1m x 10m
  12. Can anyone confirm I am working out the area correctly? 1m x 3m - 50% depth would be 0.5m, the base is excluded so it is 0.5 x 1+1+3+3 = 4m2 f = (1/VP) / 1000 or 0.00003367 = (1/29.7) / 1000 For 100m2 area to be drained: The soakaways may be sized using the following simplified formulae derived from BRE Digest 365: (A x 0.0145) – (a x f x 900) = S (100m2 x 0.0145) - (4 x 0.00003367 x 900) = 1.328m3 So how do I then take this 1.328m3 area and size the soak away considering it will be filled with clean rock.
  13. Thanks. So a - is the internal surface area of the soakaway to 50% effective depth, excluding the base in m2. So say 1m x 3m is... 0.5 x 1+1+3+3. So 4m2? Assuming the top isn't considered as well as the base of the pit.
  14. Yes there is a long winded way for f value, then there is thankfully the method of doing a VP value and converting it. I just don't get the whole a = assumed bit as that completely changes the final outcome so is open to manipulation?