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About iSelfBuild

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    Dumfries & Lancashire

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  1. Forgot to update you with the finished result. Very happy!!!
  2. I design and build log cabins. Yes, they can be made to comply with building regulations. But I wouldn't recommend them for a home, 99% of the time they are unmortgageable and depreciate rather than an appreciating asset like bricks and mortar. The one you have linked to is pretty much a wendy house in my eyes
  3. I'm just looking at a new development site in SW Scotland. 3 Acre Woodland with with permission passed for 5 log cabins. None primary residence use though. The sellers had a bit of trouble getting permission due to it being classed as ancient woodland initially, however it was deemed to not be ancient and following that it seems D&G Council have to support anything that boosts tourism and can't say no! I'm trying to find some land without permission granted but everyone seems to be selling land with 20 year 50% overage PP clauses these days.
  4. Hey Guys and Gals, I own a woodland building plot in South West Scotland and I'm now starting the development. I really want to get a phone line connected due to renting out this property to holiday makers and the need to tick this box! The site is currently serviced by a private electric supply and water supply. There is service connection rights over the land for phone lines etc and the connection point is about 900m away. What is the process for making a connection? Does BT allow you to lay your own private cabling and just perform the final connection at the connection point? Anybody have an idea on costs? I'm installing 150m of private electric supply shortly and It makes sense to lay the telephone cable in the same trench and terminate it in the electric distribution hut which is next to the mast (where the red lines terminate). Then the remaining of the telephone cable can be laid along side the forest wall 700m or so down towards the farms access track where in close proximity there is a telephone mast. I have no idea how it works and I want to coordinate a connection plan with the other 8 plot owners, do we all need a cable each or could we all tap into a distribution supply which would be connected to in the electric hut?
  5. I have filled this in for you and happy to be interviewed. I know the struggle of getting candidates for university research so more than happy to help
  6. Nothing wrong with using laminated timber for windows. It's what I supply as standard. They do not twist or warp the same and are much more stable. Just be aware the scantlings are made from very fine finger jointed timber. Some people find the finger jointing offensive so specify no visible finger joints if you don't like it. Photo attached.
  7. I have a wealth of knowledge on portable buildings in Scotland as I have just secured planning permission and in the midst of LABSS approval for my twin unit round log cabin. If your ever near Dumfries and Galloway feel free to pop into my site and I can show you what can be achieved. We should start the build in 10 weeks max. It's a minefield when doing it fully by the book and achieving full compliance. So far my method statement is 50 pages long and I'm about 2 weeks away from my submission to LABSS which includes full structural calculations, lifting plan etc. There's a lot of cowboys out there offering supposedly 'compliant' log cabins.
  8. Thanks everyone for your input! I profiled the logs and I can slim the ring beam down to 3 no 45 x 195 C24 - glued and bolted lined with 18mm marine plywood. In my old line of work we sell a 42mm internally threaded socket with a 130 x 130 8mm flat plate - this is rated at lifting 8 tonnes so plenty robust enough! This will be welded to various corner, inline, cross plates etc. It then is connected to the pads with 42mm threaded bar and a fixing socket. The pads have a widest radius of 400mm and slim down to 130mm at the top. This follows a 45* blow out force from the top. For the sloped sections I will set the pads on piers which are cast from 300mm pipe and faced with stone. With trellis between the piers I hope it will look less imposing! The cabin will be elevated by about 1.4m in one corner. Just not sure on the appropriate footing that will tie in the piers where it is elevated. My main concern is the potential for them to topple over!!! So I think I will have to tie them in to a strip foundation.
  9. Hello Build-Hubbers As some of you know I'm getting pretty close to starting my 200mm round log cabin now, which is built to mobile regulations and in two sections for transportation. Each section will be about 15T. The overall foot print is 17.6m x 6.1m If I get the green light from planning I could be starting the foundations in August and I want to finalise how I'm doing the foundations. It's out of scope for building control so I pretty much have free reign to do as I please. The ground on my site is solid granite and I don't want to go overkill with the foundation design. At first I was going to have the timber ring beam delivered at the same time as the round logs, so the below system appealed to me as I wouldn't have had to get the location bang on as it all has adjustment. However I'm now constructing the timber ring beam in advance, which will be 4 number 45mm x 195mm, glued, screwed and bolted, potentially ply lined box beams - I'm still awaiting designs from my SE. So I can take my time and get it all correct. What would be a typical design for a building of this size? I was thinking concrete piers made out of 300mm diameter pipe, tied into a base of say 200 x 500 x 500 cast straight on top of the rock. The majority of piers are only 400m high. Some are as high as 1.4m and there will also be a 40m2 stilted decking area. I'm also considering having some T brackets, in-Line brackets, corner and stilt brackets fabricated that cab be cast into the tubing using a fixing socket and offer height adjustment - I'm good friends with the owner of a fixing anchor factory over in China and he has offered to make a system which I can roll out on future projects so it will cost me very little for these brackets and it's very reassuring to think I have say 50mm - 100mm of adjustment. Also the timber will not be directly sat on concrete so no wicking. I have to say the above foundation which uses a precast concrete pad and allows full axis realignment is great - They can take a load of 5T each, not sure I trust them for the stilted areas though, I'm sure they are OK for decking but I have doubts for the log cabin main structure. They are only 400 x 400 and 180 high so extremely efficient. Should I attempt something similar? Precast Pads In Use: My pier plan:
  10. How many do you need, what size? My friend supplies the trade but will only really accept large orders.
  11. I'm a consultant within the precast concrete market. A joint venture between Milbank and a Beligium company called Danilith looked like it was going to get traction back in 2015 but it never came to full fruition. I know Laing O'Rourke do housing but not sure if they do one-offs, a few other Irish precasters do small housing developments but I have not come across someone doing the full package yet. You could try we supplied them with magnets and shuttering nearly a year ago which I believe was for wall panels. I'm not sure if they do the full package in precast. I think the main issue for one off houses is the structural calculations and the lifting design and production planning for one offs. However I would be happy to supply MA with all the lifting design calculations free of charge for a one off house for you as I'd love to see precast more widely adopted in the house building sector. I think it's better suited for mass production though.
  12. I totally over thought this for opening the doors from the outside. I just need to fit ROTO balcony door latches. The doors I supply don't open by a spring loaded handle, you turn them from vertical to horizontal then it's immediately free to move. So this will be ideal and is standard technology anyway just never came across this before as I usually supply outward opening bi-folds. Issue is that they want to be able to lock one of the doors from the outside and there is actually no possibility to fit the lock in the casing even if they wanted a handle on the outside. Sooooo I need to find the slimmest possible electronic door bolt or magnetic lock NOT latch which will lock the door when it's technically in the unlocked position 🤨 Maybe something like this: Or
  13. Putting this out there to see if anyone knows of anything... I have 5 sets of internal opening doors and the customer does not want a handle on the outside. There will be a lockable handle on the inside only. However they want to be able to open the doors from the outside, locking isn't necessary from the outside as they are on a balcony. Does anyone know a remote controlled solution for this?
  14. Yep not any of the manufacturers, I think I know which distributor it is. They didn't use my suppliers, they got some samples from another eastern European company and then made plans and imported from china and cheapened everything in terms of the thicknesses of timber and quality of materials. They told one of my customers they made the cabins in the UK which was nonsense. I'll keep an eye on the auctions!