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About iSelfBuild

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    Dumfries & Lancashire

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  1. Back in 2013 my parents started their build... they are now nearly finished (have not done their reclaim yet) and have just purchased a summerhouse and a garage. They are just 28mm log construction. At present no planning permission in place and I was just wondering, are these allowable reclaimable items? I had a look and sheds do not seem to be, which I would think then that a summerhouse wouldn't? However it doesn't list a garage as allowable or disallowable. I'm quite confident I can get my planning officer to accept the addition of summerhouse and garage as a none material variation... so it would be on the planning permission and tick the box for HMRC. Just not sure it's allowable reclaim? If anyone could help that would be appreciated. Thank you.
  2. Does Anyone know of a company who can make custom aluminium window/door threshold extensions. Bit of a fudge up with a couple of entrance doors and I need to extend it 80mm - a 3 bend system. Looked online everywhere and can't find anything so looking for recomendations.
  3. Does anyone know what this is called? Seen a few lads use something which was like a grey/blue and had grit in as well to make it none slip. Have 100m2 that I want to keep in OK condition that will be out under the elements for about a month on two log cabin builds. Going to reuse it to build some sheds and garages from it afterwards if it's not too trashed.
  4. Just building the subframe for my log cabins (200mm round log - hence it's so chunky) I need to deck this out with either OSB or Plywood so we can build the log walls safely. It will be replaced with 28mm Pine T & G once the roof is on. What is the minimum thickness OSB you think is safe at 400 centres? Trying to find a balance between burning loads of money on a temporary floor and it being safe! Also does anyone know of any paint that you can roller on which makes it waterproof and SLIP PROOF! No doubt we will be having some rain in October and November and we won't be throwing tools down.
  5. It wouldn't be pumping the mains we would be just pressurising the downflow from the 5500l header tank. Where we do pump off the mains (up to the header tank) we have a break tank. You can actually pump directly off the mains but I think 13 litres or something is the limit per minute or thereabouts.
  6. Yep that's correct. Assuming 8 people drawing off the 5,500l header tank - we would need a pump capable of filling a pressure vessel at (14 litres per minute x 8 ) 112 litres per minute and it would need to pressurise this to say 3 bar. Looking at pumps this is nothing special or too demanding. If that was connected to a 300 litre pressure vessel set a 3 bar. Then in theory everyone drawing off 14 litres per minute the vessel would have pressurised capacity for nearly 3 minutes before the pump kicked back in. In reality the pump would probably kick in every 20 minutes or so unless it was a peak use time (everyone having their showers on at 8 am for example) Is my logic right? Whole system is very Heath Robinson. Cat 5 water tank and pump should have been fitted onto the mains from the outset and done away with a holding tank 200m up the site (30m head) so much pointless trenches dug and pipework.
  7. I am building three lodges/log cabins in a woodland site which has a rather questionable water system. The supply comes into the lower site via a Scottish Water mains and is terminated at the edge of the site. It's then taken up in private pipes to the plots in 50mm and teed off to each plot in 32mm. This is 20m lower than some of the plots. A few years ago the mains water was intermittent throughout the day in terms of flow - i.e. not enough pressure when in peak use locally. I wasn't involved in the 'fix' implemented - which was to install a small pump house, extra pumping delivery pipe in 50mm and a 5500 l header tank at the top of the site 30m up. This 5,500l tank is filled with mains pressure when it exists and topped up with the pumps at night time. This has worked well for a number of years for some of the plots that are right at the bottom and benefit from the head of pressure and delivery pipe being all down hill and when not many people were drawing off it. It's now getting close to empty throughout the day in peak use. So we are going to modify the system to pump on demand whenever 1000 litres is taken out of the tank. There is another issue with this system - 4 of the plots are getting just about bearable water pressure. However my sites which raise up another 6m from the delivery pipe are getting just 1/3 bar pressure - with 15 litres flow per minute. I was going to fit a small 60l pressure vessel and pump at the bottom of the sites to ensure I always have pressured water on demand. Something like this: However after mentioning it to some of the other plot owners we thought a communal system could be better so it benefits everyone. I would need to expose the pipe that comes down from the header tank and fit a check valve before anything is drawn off of it. Then tee off to a pump and pressure switch which is linked to perhaps a 300 litre pressure vessel. Then re-tap into the header tank down pipe (after the check valve) It would seem this would work, 5,500l header tank is probably an OK size for 8 properties but I'm wondering if the pressure vessel at 300litres would be big enough? I'm aware more could be connected in series. All very heath Robinson and I think pumping it up 30m and building a big tank at the bottom of the site was a waste of time. They should have just had a pressured system and break tank from the outset at the bottom. However
  8. Just getting round to doing some decking, 120m2 of it... I was thinking I should really use decking subframe tape to try and prolong it's life... then I saw the cost of it. Wouldn't this just do the same thing at about 10-20% of the price?
  9. This is what we used for 100% certainty, it says glazing so naively I thought we would be ok. Bid fudge up on my part
  10. Very gutted to see that the only piece of glass that I didn't supply myself has failed in our lodge... It's a triple glazed unit and the glass spacer bars / mastic appears to be dripping (melting) and running down the glass. No doubt it will mist over come winter. We used GP200 Glazing Silicone... I'm worried it has reacted. It says Acetic acid is evolved during curing and also EUH208 contains 2-Octyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one Does anyone know if this is the sort of silicone which is safe for use or is my supplier going to worm their way out of this. It has been fitted about 4 years.
  11. Its just for doing business admin from. Plan to stick a little sofa in there and make it look a bit like this.
  12. Nope cross laminated bolted timber ring beam chassis (jacked up and then steel slid under and craned up) capable of being moved as proved by a rather expensive engineer but I would never want to pay the crane costs!!!
  13. Few questions for the knowledgeable buildhubbers. Is there a minimum size for EN1647 caravans? Does a caravan have to be stationed a certain distance from your garden boundary? I am planning to build a little log cabin as an office shortly - to EN1647 caravan regulations which lets me 5% VAT rate it and class it as plant & machinery in my business. Roughly 3m x 5m Despite supplying a few BS3632 cabins I have never made one so small... and they have always exceeded both 2.55m and 7m length. A “small” caravan (that is, one not exceeding either 7 metres in length or 2.55 metres in width) is subject to VAT at the standard rate. A structure which exceeds either of these dimensions - but is not manufactured to British Standard 3632:2005 - is subject to VAT at the reduced rate of 5%. One which exceeds either of these dimensions and is manufactured to BS3632:2005, can be zero-rated. I can't class it as BS3632 0% VAT as this has a minimum m2 requirement of 23m2. Don't have the EN1647 handbook but I'm assuming this allows smaller sizes... does anyone know? As a garden building I would need planning... If I do it as a caravan maybe not??? I want to put this 1m from my boundary... to avoid building regulations as they will be 200mm square logs so I don't want to cover this up with tin etc to make it 'fire proof' I don't want to be constrained by the 2.5m height limit for garden buildings not requiring planning so I should have to put in for planning permission and will have a ridge height of 4.3m As a garden building I could keep it at 4m without needing planning but it would then have to be 2m from the boundary and the garden shape is so awkward it wont really work. Or is there some other loop hole where I don't even need planning permission as it is classified as a caravan... and planning is not required for caravan in your garden but then there is probably regulations governing how close they can be to the boundary?
  14. Hardwall taken flush then filler stippled on once set. Near enough the same 😀
  15. I have just sandblasted our beams in the new house and manged to blast off some patches of plaster. The finish appears to be lime based with some sort of grit in? It seems to have flecks of vermiculite in it as well? Is that a done thing or am I imagining that being in the mix? I imagine that they let it go off partially and polish off the top layer to expose the grit? Any ideas on how to recreate this? I was thinking thistle bonding coat might be a good option and getting it level then adding a slurry mix on top and using a stipple roller to blend in? Any other ideas?