gravelld

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About gravelld

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  1. You get Passivhaus Plus, which is a pretty good magazine.
  2. @Clive Osborne when you use the term "efficient" - what do you mean? From your last post, it appears you just mean time-efficient, not input-energy efficient.
  3. Our DHW loop has three showers on it - one with an integrated pump, fed from a cold and hot water tank, and two with an external pump for which the pump turns on when water is drawn through it. These are also fed from a cold and hot water tank. I want to fit a recirculation pump to the DHW circuit. Is it ok to have more than one pump working at once? This sounds wrong to me...
  4. Absolute base load about 125-150W, although rarely see that - one of the many fridges/freezers tend to kick in!
  5. For this use case, increasing ventilation, I feel a solution already exists - a ventilation system. Windows are not very good ventilation systems because they rely on ambient pressure and they are even worse for cooling during the day because there's barely any temperature delta (although they can provide a perception of cooling when, and only when, you are standing next to them).
  6. The speed might be ok, but with the output of 200W surely there's not going to be enough torque to turn a blade through (potentially wet) grass? Or am I misunderstanding the application of the output here?
  7. I have one external wall light. I want two extra lights. Is it possible to: - Install some kind of junction box where the current wiring comes out of the wall into the existing light - Cut a groove in the existing rendering for the armoured cable for the two extra lights, install the cable, render over again (we'll be painting anyway) - Wire in all lights to the new junction box - Fit the lights AIUI this isn't a new circuit, just extending the existing one. Is this notifiable or Part P work?
  8. You have to replace the inverter of course.
  9. Going to get one of these: https://www.anchorpumps.com/grundfos-ups-15-50n-130-hot-water-service-circulator-240v I understand this comes without a plug. However I'd like to wire a plug so I can just use one of my smart plugs to turn it on and off. Is this permitted? And if so, how do I do it? Max current is 0.23A. Wiring diagram looks simple enough! https://product-selection.grundfos.com/product-detail.product-detail.html?custid=GMA&productnumber=97549426&qcid=544221119
  10. Thanks. Fitted the new cable today, works a treat, trickling away with the light off! Thanks everyone.
  11. Oh - both earths terminate in the same block in the isolator? Duh....
  12. Regarding using an isolator, what do I do about the earth? I can park the earth from the junction box in the back box of the isolator, but what do I do about the earth conductor in the cable running from the isolator to the fan? The wiring diagram on the isolator suggests earth from the switch is parked in the isolator, and earth from the supply goes to the fan, but the fan does not need earth.
  13. If that happened either the weather is getting past the aluminium, which means the warranty applies (most of these windows have 10 year warranties), or water's getting to it from inside, which sounds like it's not a problem with the window. The design of the alu cladding does change from window to window. Some have cavities. Some fill in the cavity with insulation for better U values.
  14. This is it - you can't be overly broad about comparing windows just based on the material. You can get PVCu that is more expensive than wood etc etc. @patp you didn't mention alu-clad timber or alu-clad PVCu which is another option. Alu tends to be the best for low maintenance and high durability.