gravelld

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About gravelld

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  1. gravelld

    Damp Walls

    Are you sure the wall is filled at that point?
  2. You only want to do this once. It will have to be done to the property eventually anyway to a decent standard. So either you do it, once, or someone else has to do it again. Good news for the installation companies I suppose. IMO by far the biggest decisions revolve around enabling works. Foundations? Eaves and verges? Meter boxes? Consider if this is an opportunity to establish an AT layer. I heard of some people painting the entire outside wall in blowerproof. Two coats (ideally three). Having deeper reveals might be a good thing - will help with overheating.
  3. It's below that - the track and threshold sit on a timber member with the DPM underneath that. It's in-between the water is getting in. Outside there's a Siga weather proofing tape but this is currently just flapping about and needs to be lapped down into the trench and sealed above between the tape and the cill.
  4. We have just installed a 4.5m slider into the ground floor of a gable. One floor above, with the gabled roof above that. With bad rain and wind we're getting some water ingress underneath the door. We need to seal this, but it looks like part of the problem is when a quantity of water sits at the bottom of the door and gets blown in. So I think as well as sealing the hole, we should allow for water to drain away more quickly. Is this right? Two obvious solutions are suggested: - A French drain with a pipe at the bottom attached to downpipe - A French drain which is just a ditch with no connection to a downpipe The former is obviously better drainage wise, but it's double the cost. Also, I intend on externally insulating the house (including the founds), which means such a solution would be wasted; we'll have to move the drain away from the wall later. So, is there a way of calculating how much of a ditch volume would be required? There's no run off from the roof, it's just a gable wall (often facing prevailing wind).
  5. I only have experience of Iso Chemie Bloco One which is a similar product. I've never submerged it, but when installed and in the rain try touching it - it feels tacky and seems to repel water. It does not set hard, that's part of the point - it moulds to the gap over time.
  6. I think this is turning out more complicated than I thought (after discussing with another builder) and so I'm getting someone with some wet trade experience to do this! Thanks for your ideas.
  7. We replaced our windows and had a Compriband style product applied around them. Unfortunately the windows were very tight, and some block work fell out as the old apertures were prepared. The result is a couple of these: And a few smaller ones too: So the problems are that: - The expanding foam tape isn't covering the gap - There's not a solid base for re-rendering to occur I have some aircrete (Toplite) and some dense concrete block and also plenty of mortar. Shall I try cutting the aircrete to size and wedging it in?
  8. Personally never had a problem with scratches in Corian. IIRC we were advised it depends to an extent on colour - we had a concretey grey kind of colour with very subtle "flecking". Any scratch just came out over a few days and a rub with olive oil. Would definitely buy again, far better than any other surface I have used.
  9. As I replied in a PM to @Grendel I crossed my fingers and paid up... so far so good.
  10. Not sure if it helps but Bond-It sent a series of pictures of how to disassemble their guns (they're pasted below in reverse order).
  11. What exactly do you want - what is it about Sonos that made you consider that in the first place? A more "audiophile" brand would be something like Bluesound. You can get a long way just using something like Kef speakers which can stream and have multiple built in inputs like Bluetooth etc