gravelld

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About gravelld

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  1. I only have experience of Iso Chemie Bloco One which is a similar product. I've never submerged it, but when installed and in the rain try touching it - it feels tacky and seems to repel water. It does not set hard, that's part of the point - it moulds to the gap over time.
  2. I think this is turning out more complicated than I thought (after discussing with another builder) and so I'm getting someone with some wet trade experience to do this! Thanks for your ideas.
  3. We replaced our windows and had a Compriband style product applied around them. Unfortunately the windows were very tight, and some block work fell out as the old apertures were prepared. The result is a couple of these: And a few smaller ones too: So the problems are that: - The expanding foam tape isn't covering the gap - There's not a solid base for re-rendering to occur I have some aircrete (Toplite) and some dense concrete block and also plenty of mortar. Shall I try cutting the aircrete to size and wedging it in?
  4. Personally never had a problem with scratches in Corian. IIRC we were advised it depends to an extent on colour - we had a concretey grey kind of colour with very subtle "flecking". Any scratch just came out over a few days and a rub with olive oil. Would definitely buy again, far better than any other surface I have used.
  5. As I replied in a PM to @Grendel I crossed my fingers and paid up... so far so good.
  6. Not sure if it helps but Bond-It sent a series of pictures of how to disassemble their guns (they're pasted below in reverse order).
  7. What exactly do you want - what is it about Sonos that made you consider that in the first place? A more "audiophile" brand would be something like Bluesound. You can get a long way just using something like Kef speakers which can stream and have multiple built in inputs like Bluetooth etc
  8. I can't quite picture this - to be clear here's what I have: Does that work with your plan? Is the 20mm gap big enough to fit and fix the stop bead? Do you put a bed of plaster before the thin coat?
  9. Eeep, copied the wrong figures across - I included some extra frames either side in the mass but forgot to update the N. Thanks Ed.
  10. Can someone check my calculations are right? I have a slider - depth 174mm, length 4500mm. Weight is 405kg (3924N). 174 * 4500 = 783000mm2 (I assume it's the surface area of the weight rather than the CF that is used). The compressive strength of CF200 is 1.01N/mm2 - http://www.compacfoam.com/26-compressive-strength.html http://www.wiki-compacfoam.info/wiki/dichteklassen So 783000mm2 means it can cope with over 790830N and so... easily?
  11. We've got a load of internal reveals to make good, meaning fill in the wet plaster between where the plaster has been cut and a newly installed window. This is generally about 20mm gap. Do any edge beads exist for wet plaster to keep a nice straight line, avoid cracks between plaster and window, and not have the plaster on the window frame? Ideally I'd then put an acrylic sealant between bead and window. All I can find are edge beads for plasterboard, e.g. https://www.amaroc.co.uk/collections/thin-coat-plaster-beads/products/locusrite-thin-coat-stop-beads-2-4m I think these are added on Could I use https://www.wemico.com/pvc-window-frameseal-beads-dup which is normally for external render?
  12. There will probably be more than one supplier in your area, do some searching and also get in contact with some different manufacturers - Rationel are generally on the value end but they can be matched.