Beau

Not tried it on asbestos but Denso tape worked brilliant on some corrugated sheets that had rust holes

If thats a solid wood worktop what happens if it shrinks?

We used to have goats when I was youngun and they were buggers to keep in! What worked was electric fencing or tethers. We tried the netting type electric fencing but the horned goat one day appeared in the yard with the fence wrapped around her horns like candyfloss. An electric line along the top of the hedge bank worked well though.

It's not but you can plaster straight onto it. If you are planning to clad this in plasterboard you could use 20mm XPS and have a thinner overall build up.

My 10 pence worth is if the wall has not got EWI I would use XBS bonded and screwed back to the whole wall. It's not going to add a lot of insulation but it will reduce condensate and in turn mould. You can tile and plaster XBS boards

It was a long time ago but I have it my head that it was easier than I expected. The pipes are pretty robust and the screed had not bonded to it. Think I wetted the floor and turned up the heating to see where pipes might be and worked from there. A thermal camera would do the same

I had to hack out around our UFH pipes after a change of stair plan. It was easy enough to chisel out the screed and I had a steel bracket fabricated that straddled the pipe and attached to the concrete below with injection resin studs.

Never heard of a decoupling layer for tiling until now Tiled our place 18 years ago and other than a hairline crack on a doorway on a 20m stretch it's been perfect without one. This was on a prepared 60mm anhydrite screed and we used a flexible tile adhesive

I can imagine how gutting it was but still going to laugh at your misfortune. So accepting I need to take a whole pile of slates off would you look to go into the stack behind the slates or drop down to near ground level behind the lead and break in there? Less hight for dropping hole saws and easier access for what I imagine is a tricky join. If its a boss with a strap I'm going to be digging holes in the wall to get behind the pipe as it looks like it was rendered after the pipe was fitted so partially set into the wall. The advice is much appreciated even if I dont like whats involved haha

We are slowly renovating my late parents farmhouse. We are looking to put in a small bathroom where currently we just have a toilet. There is a cast iron downpipe behind the lead flashing on the slate hanging, and the blue line marks the height a shower drain should come out through the wall. I am loathed to take off all the slates, so I’m hoping there is a discreet alternative I haven't thought of. The room below is nice and I would rather take lots of slates off than drop a waste pipe through it. The wall has EWI behind the slates, and I think the buildup is 3x2 battens with 60mm PIR set between them, then batten and slates. If I do have to remove lots of slates, should I just bite the bullet and replace the cast downpipe with plastic while I'm at it? Thanks

I've been pleased with this which has bonded insulated plasterboard to some dodgy old lime plastered walls successfully. Cheapest I found was an ebay seller which worked out around £6.50 a can https://www.soudal.co.uk/diy/products/adhesives/foam-adhesives/soudabond-plasterboard-gun

Black stove paint is widely available. Our local farm shop even stocks it (least they used to) and they have a branch in Liskeard which might be close to you? Mole Valley Farmers

Fill the hole with silcon and mount a shower shelf to cover it?

You are right to plan for problems. We have a similar room and I did not consider acoustics. When I finally set up my prized hifi in there my better half said it was the closest she had have seen me to crying. It's better now with lots of furnishings and pictures up on the wall but the fancy hifi got sold as it was totally unsuited to such a bright sounding space.

I would make up a 30 degree wooden wedge and use that to guide a handsaw at the angle.