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Might there have been a chimney there at some stage that was taken down? If so it's possible it was providing some structural benefits. Whatever the case I wouldn't be overly worried about it if there's no sign of water ingress. However I would get up there with a few 2*4s, a bottle of glue, some clamps and a few screws to patch it up if it was in any way flimsy. If it is allowing in water however, allow maybe £5k to get that side of the roof sorted.2 points
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Ps another thing to consider is that the bat people may specify non breathable bituminous F1 roofing felt (an old building is likely to have this anyway), so watch out with the detailing, and be aware that the so-called ‘Batsafe’ membrane is not, it’s polyester and tangles in their feet (various lawsuits).2 points
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Thanks, this is a useful piece of information. Ultimately I think a customers satisfaction with their designer will boil down to just a couple of things, the responsibilities bear heavily on both and I think it will be unlikely that cause of dissatisfaction will rest with solely one party. In reality the relationship is no different to any other business transaction but for one reason or another it become a little more emotive the customer needs to be able to identify what he wants i.e budget, features, feel, quality the designer needs to be able to follow the brief both parties need to be able to communicate ESPECIALLY when there is a feeling that the product is deviating from the brief the customer and the designer should bear in mind the type of work that is being requested, it may not align with the designer portfolio of work, in such a case there is a greater likelihood that both parties will not get what they want In my view, the problem with above is that most customers are reaching out to a designer in whatever form BECAUSE they don’t know what they want and this leads to change which leads to cost which leads to dissatisfaction. This is where the responsibility ends up landing at the doorstep of the designer and in my opinion is where a good designer shines through as they gently guide the customer through to the determination of their desires.2 points
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There are a lot of extensive papers on testing ICF. The two I have read are specifically regarding windows. Did also read a few sound test papers. https://www.bchousing.org/sites/default/files/rcg-documents/2022-04/ICF-Wall-Test-Modeling-Lab-Report.pdf https://www2.bchousing.org/sites/default/files/rcg-documents/2022-04/ICF-Field-Test-Report.pdf Looking at the Amvic manual it recommends a membrane behind timber cladding. The Thermohouse manual says to do what the cladding supplier recommends. The Nudura manual defers to building regulations and manufacturers requirements. These are the 3 ICF manuals I have on hand. NHBC doesn’t require a membrane behind cladding. https://www.nhbc.co.uk/binaries/content/assets/nhbc/tech-zone/nhbc-standards/tech-guidance/6.1/external-finishes-to-insulated-concrete-formwork.pdf2 points
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As it says on the tin really but somewhat thought provoking. https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2024/sep/28/heat-pumps-future-hot-air-labour-home-upgrade?CMP=Share_iOSApp_Other1 point
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They're usually in high-end hotels etc, very nice tbh and no complexity / multi-component failures that often go with these things. In absolute honesty these are the least of anyone's worries, as they are changed for a new (replacement) in around 15-20 mins or so. More of a worry for the bath if boxed in, or the shower unit if tiled in on a flush floor arrangement.1 point
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Sadly, yes, as if you ask 5 different plumbers you'll likely get 5 different answers that each party swears by. I just go on 3 decades of doing "what feels right" and the confidence that it all worked well (or very well), as I tend to over-engineer a little for 'Justin' but the results always speak volumes.1 point
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Not quite sure how you want to set this up but have a look here: https://www.ejot.co.uk/Building-Fasteners/Products/ETICS-Anchors-/c/ETICS_ANCHORS1 point
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Well, as I posted earlier I did and not only didn’t I loose my shirt but came In under budget so could afford a huge oak conservatory rather than soft wood or UPVC. caveat….it was a relatively straightforward design (of mine).1 point
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Yes.. but they have lost their shirt and by the time they called me in it was a bit too late. This is much more complex than you realise. The design loads are often increased, the steels coroded.. then you add openings.. large area of glass for example that are sensitive to movement. Often we want an old building to move as freely as possible. Archaeology, flood risk can cause major design challenges that can massivly impact on your budget. For me I love this stuff as it is a big challenge.. gathering together what you know with the site information, fitting the jigsaw together and adapting the design to suit.. often we go back to first principles.. the SE stuff feeds into the Archaelogy.. the flooding.. it's fascinating.. and then you have to get that to work with a budget and still keep the Architectural design concept. The best advice I can give is to go though each of your design team and look for the most experienced with the broadest knowledge. Then see if they are excited about your project. This does not have to be the most qualified person on paper. Then ask.. will they fight my corner and pull the rest of the design team into place. You are the Client thus the big decisions will always rest with you.. but you need a good "wingman" that is invested in you and the project. In terms of design cost expect to pay more up front.. as the design progresses you can easily realise £20- 30k plus savings on a 450k refurb or the like that will basically pay for most of the desing cost. Skimp now on the design fees and you will regret. well you may not.. often folk just blame the cost over run on the poor builder who has got to sort out crap and unrealistic design on site.1 point
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I use floorplanner. The free version is as good as the paid version, but the paid version exports in 4k ($5 a month). It does good renders too. You can upload drawings into the app as a flat plane so you may be able to put the plans in, then create the plans on top of the image if that makes sense. There are some free CAD apps out there, too, but they will be more complicated to use.1 point
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If it’s detached and the internal floor area does not exceed 15sq.m, you don’t need to worry about the the material or distance to the boundary.1 point
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MVHR and dMVHR does not need trickle vents. You have to have dMVHR in every room, for it to be sound ventilation strategy, so stupid expensive and you have to meet the minimum whole house flow rates. Have to you considered cascade MVHR instead? Or proper MVHR with coanda effect terminals, or a combination of the two to limit ducts?1 point
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This is correct annoying thing I park here for the past 20 years no cracks no movement when built I probably won't ever park there as it be more for storage1 point
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Mine was easier as a new build but I built 4x2 studs filled with 90 mm PIR then attached 25mm PIR in front with 50x 25mm battens on the inside with all joints foamed and taped to give a service void for cables. It’s as warm as toast. We had a site meeting in there last night and had to turn a small fan heater off after about 10 mins. Mine is a similar size at 5.3 x 3.3 internally.1 point
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It's not marketing (and I haven't seen it mentioned in marketing materials), it's a control strategy that is important to control cycling when heating load is less than minimum output. Without an integral-based control mechanism how would ASHP control cycles? Using simple hystersis would result in more temperature swings impacting efficiency and comfort AFAIU..1 point
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At our last place we wired out heat and smoke alarms, which had battery backup, off the lighting circuits. It was all signed off ok.1 point
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Well if it will be detached from the dwelling then you can do this... Small detached buildings 1. A detached single storey building, having a floor area which does not exceed 30m2, which contains no sleeping accommodation and is a building— (a)no point of which is less than one metre from the boundary of its curtilage; or (b)which is constructed substantially of non-combustible material. 2. A detached building designed and intended to shelter people from the effects of nuclear, chemical or conventional weapons, and not used for any other purpose, if— (a)its floor area does not exceed 30m2; and (b)the excavation for the building is no closer to any exposed part of another building or structure than a distance equal to the depth of the excavation plus one metre. 3. A detached building, having a floor area which does not exceed 15m2, which contains no sleeping accommodation. Or if it is not going to be a garage then you can build: Extensions The extension of a building by the addition at ground level of— (a)a conservatory, porch, covered yard or covered way; or (b)a carport open on at least two sides; where the floor area of that extension does not exceed 30m2, provided that in the case of a conservatory or porch which is wholly or partly glazed, the glazing satisfies the requirements of F2[F3Part K4, K5.1, K5.2, K5.3, and K5.4] [F2Part N] of Schedule 1. (i.e it's basically safety glazing - my comment) The above are within Schedule 2 - Exempt buildings and work. Perhaps a nice porch to keep your tools in (although a porch should enclose a door into the house to really be a porch)1 point
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Yes, the installer service cloud (which anyone can register for) is what gives you COP (and lots of other) data. The user login is basic controls only with no data- although it does integrate with home assistant relatively nicely.1 point
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Funny place to have a roof window unless it was going to be converted. If it was just for natural light they would have put a smaller rooflight between the rafters. Leaving it as a bodge was not great.1 point
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As it is it is not structurally sound as a roof window opening. The surveyor should tell you what wants doing and give you an idea of how much to knock off the price to cover it.1 point
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Hi, the slabs thickness isn't the problem here it's the boundary retaining wall if I need to get a structual engineer involved they want to see the foundation of the wall which is nye on impossible to uncover without huge expense. Therefor I want to build it do no building regulations are needed PP its excempt I already checked this.1 point
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A bit of an aside but you might be able to take them on on the basis of not providing the warranty info before you bought. My son recently bought a top end graphics card (as in ££££), that had coil whine. When contacted initially, the supplier wrote back that coil whine can be quite normal and doesn't affect the user experience. They would accept the card as a return but only if my lad changed his reason from "faulty" to "unwanted". Bottom line is my brother's a barrister. We went back on these lines: "Regulation 6 of the Consumer Protection from Unfair Trading Regulations 2008 ("the Regulations") requires you to provide material information about your products to consumers. Failing to do so can constitute an offence under the Regulations. The lack of this information had an effect on my transactional decision because if I had know about the issue the product would not have been bought. A breach of the regulations does not provide me with a direct route for redress but this, together with my rights under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 seems to generate a situation in which you may wish to reconsider my request for a refund on my original grounds?" Thinking you might be able to adapt the wording to say had you been aware of the restrictions you wouldn't have gone with them. Saying that imho I think what they are saying is in some repects quite fair. If someone else messes with their work and the roof leaks, it's going to be a pita dealing with two companies as to liability even if both are approved installers. What does the company small print say on repairs etc? You could argue what if the installation company folds, you would be forced to seek an alternative, approved installer for repairs etc. You allude to the original install not going well. Care to expand on that? If you're deemed a difficult customer they may be playing hard ball. I'll ask my brother.1 point
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Yes, our planners tried to over rule our ecologists but were told by the appeal inspector they could not (I did not want bat boxes in the new build but was willing to build bat boxes into the detached garage which the ecologist said was acceptable).1 point
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That is easily fixable but the felt looks suspect and tiles missing? Try to knock them down on price, find a local builder/roofer to give you a quote.1 point
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It’s not expensive if they save you from c**king everything up. A good architect with experience in conservation/listed building work will save you money in the long run and from those charlatans who will try and sell you quick fix solutions to a plethora of problems that can be encountered when renovating a listed building.1 point
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That’s what I love about this forum - people prepared to spend vast amounts of money on a house but not prepared to appoint appropriate professionals to deliver the project. I have a serious question for you - if you spent £450,000 on a car would you let an inexperienced and unqualified apprentice service your car?1 point
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Ventilation comment was for the room, not for the walls I was proposing a single continuous layer of PIR, then battens. So your build up from outside in would be: Existing block wall PIR, gaps and joins foamed and taped Battens Plasterboard1 point
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Tape the joints in the foil covered insulation with metal foil tape to form vapour barrier.1 point
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No, reveals are the 'turn-rounds' to windows and doors, where the walls on each side turn in to form the window/door opening. Will look for some pics of the 'warm batten' (service void) method as described above. The 'service void' is as deep as the battens used, so normally 25mm deep. That may (but may not) mean that you can mount sockets on the plasterboard face without the back-box piercing the foil which (maybe) you are hoping to use as your VCL. No ventilation (external air movement) between layers of insulation!! If you do (deliberately or inadvertently) introduce ventilation you are leaving part of the wall 'sandwich' 'out in the garden'. Keep layers tight to each other. I have only had a quick look at later posts after my first, but so far I don't think anyone has mentioned ventilation. Yes, you want to keep the place warm, but you need to keep the occupants warm, but you need to keep them healthy (and indeed alive!) too. You have also made no mention (I think) of floor insulation. I guess the door arrangement may make this difficult but I would strongly advocate for some, rather than none (for example 25mm PIR (Kingspan/Celotex or similar) taped at all joints and perimeters as VCL or (my preference) with a strong VCL over - so you can tramp all over it without piercing it when you are laying the boards - then glued T & G OSB - I hate chipboard - as a 'floating floor' - no fixings) even if you have to have an un-insulated area for the 'swing' of the door. If you do keep the stove (a) it needs *permanent* non-closeable ventilation and (b) you need a good hearth and fireproof separation from walls which may now be insulated with a product which burned horrifyingly well in a much-publicised fire (not the only flammable element, I accept). At very least follow Bldg Regs guidance, and also look carefully at the specifics of the exemption. I cannot remember but if, for instance, it says it's exempt from bldg regs if it does not have permanent heating then you either take out the (permanent) stove or do as @Gus Potter suggests. Consider also whether you want to burn anything, which could (/will) cause pollution and nuisance. If I were you I think I'd lose the stove and look at a cheap air-to-air Heat Pump.1 point
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Thank you for following along. See you next week! We've had some companies approach us, social marketing is certainly more of a thing nowadays. But you are right in the sense that I think you would need a significant following to truly benefit, we're pretty small fishes comparatively. It's worth documenting it for yourselves, like a scrapbook, which was genuinely our intention. And then GD approached us through the platform - that's one example I suppose.1 point
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It is to do with energy, 1/2 mass times velocity squared. So the bigger the difference in initial speed, the greater the amount of energy to dissipate. Then there is wind resistance, which works in your favour at higher speeds, the faster you go, the greater the resistance, (air resistance = air density x drag x area / 2) x velocity squared. Then there is aerodynamic forces that affect the vehicle, most cars produce lift at the rear end, this gets worse the faster you go. Then, just for a laugh, there is the braking forces, which changes the axle weigh (remember that weight is mass times acceleration). As you brake hard, more force is put on the front axle, which causes a greater force on the tyres, which then deform, increasing the contact area. Now at normal speeds, this does not make any difference as friction is just the coefficient times the force, but at high speeds, it does as the tyres can quickly change shape (ripple). As a general rule, if your driving goes Pete Tong, in any situation, hit the brakes as hard as possible, it scrubs of speeds, lowering the energy on impact (I went backwards into a tyre wall at over 90 MPH at Thruxton, was airborne and the steering and brakes did (expletive deleted) all, did not stop me trying to use them). I last got caught in 2002, was doing 94 on the A11 near Snetterton. They are usually used to tractors throwing carrots out the back. £270 fine and 5 points. Failed to turn up in court as I was working in the USA, so kept my licence (apparently to be banned you had to appear, or be represented, in court). So in the last 22 years, I have probably driven 700,000 miles. I drive like my Mother, but that is another story. Yesterday I drove 600 miles, got 68 MPG and my average speed was 51 MPH. That is 12 hours of my life I am never getting back.1 point
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Thanks for the kind words. Materials always seem to be divisive. Cor-ten, for example. We've had people call it 'scrap metal', and others love it. At the end of the day we've built it with materials that bring us joy, and don't worry too much about what others think. After all, we're the ones who have to look at it every day! That's the best advice we could give.1 point
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+1, I hate floating floors. Plus the glue will help transfer the heat better.1 point
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Flooring manufacturer instructions normally give explicit instructions. Ours had to be glued down on top of UFH. Doesn't mean yours will. If in doubt ask the supplier.1 point
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Ha. I can neither confirm or deny any of the above bullet points. You'll have to tune in to the episode to find out... It's public knowledge that the production crew don't compensate us for being on the show. The only thing that's covered is reimbursement of a few basic expenses, if there is any travel required. As to your question on how some houses run out of money, it's barely habitable, and then it's all perfect at the end? I genuinely don't know.1 point
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how come people can build a mansion from nothing in a year of graft yet i spend every sodding day for 3 years on my 3 bedroom semi and still havent got a ceiling...1 point
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I trust you inserted the words “Buildhub” into every recorded interview. If not, expect abuse from members.1 point
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ICF in the UK doesn’t really need membranes and trays or to be treated like timber frame. But you do need a water shedding strategy with render, cladding, brick or some other facade. The concrete is your water proof layer. You could scrape all the eps off, if you didn’t care about the insulation and the concrete would behave like any concrete structure and give you decades of water proof, rot free performance. ICF is nothing like timber frame, and should not be treated in a similar way. If it wasn’t for the UV in sunlight slowly eroding the EPS, you could leave the bare EPS walls uncovered for many, many years and not see any degradation. EPS is not a new material, there are decades of evidence showing how it performs. ICF is not a new build method and has been around for over 50 years. Watch some Building Science videos with Joe Lstiburek, where he describes the “perfect wall” and what you need to do to prevent water ingress, this starts a the 30 minute mark, but the whole video is worth watching. Every building needs a good strategy for shedding water as this is one of the most damaging environmental effects. https://buildingscience.com/documents/enclosures-that-work/high-r-value-wall-assemblies/high-r-wall-icf-wall-construction1 point
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Up to you of course, but just in case you weren't aware, you can get specialised induction hobs for at least woks, e.g: I have a friend who absolutely refuses to switch; I'm beginning to suspect she just likes the gas fumes ^^. No idea about karahi though. Best of luck with the refit! Keep us updated.1 point
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@Sparrowhawk and @Nickfromwales, guess what? You were right!! Install was really shoddy. See my post today in 'Measuring up for replacement windows'. The new TP654 system is not available in the UK in the width I needed so I used Illbruck i3 (Compriband - FM330 - ME508) Sorry, I don't know how to put a link to that post here.1 point
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could install a loft unit to force airflow https://store.beamcentralsystems.com/products/axco-loft-mounted-positive-input-ventilation-piv#:~:text=Designed to run continuously%2C the,generating fresh filtered air throughout.1 point
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You could also get a dehumidifier, Meaco are good. You can buy packs of humidistats on Amazon cheaply to put in each room so you can monitor things.1 point
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Well I'd put my money on condensation. Penetrating damp would disrupt the plaster and leave a stain over a defined area as it soaks the wall. This looks like mould spots across a damp surface. This is a classic conundrum with modern life in older houses, lots of warm moist air and poorly performing thermal envelopes. You can't use the windows in the winter when it is most critical to remove the moisture laded air. Usually it's the colder surfaces in upstairs bedrooms that suffer the most. The first job is to kill the mould, the second is to get rid of the worst damp air at source so extracts in the bathrooms and kitchen are a must. You may want to consider a cheap dehumidifier. Going beyond that isn't easy as putting in trickle vents now isn't simple nor is insulating the walls. So the easier bits first.1 point
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Totally agree with the comments above. I do retrofit plans as a full time job. Your energy rating will drop (by a full 10 points) if you have a MVHR system in your property. This is controversial, and looks to change in the revised rating system(definitely should not reduce the rating of a Passivhaus). However, I think the assumption that an MVHR system inappropriately installed will simply make a house more draughty, with very little heat recovery benefits, is correct. The middle ground is to have passive ventilation features, with a designed ventilation path utilising mechanical extract fans (look at a floorplan of the property, work out how the air will move inside the house based on where trickle vents and fans are located). I've designed and manufactured such a system which I plan to install in the house I'm buying. As my system is CO2 and Humidity sensor driven, it's fairly agnostic of your actual air tightness level. The system will simply extract as actually required to keep occupants and the building healthy (Wifi networked extract fans being controlled by an air quality monitor reading CO2 and humidity). It's also fairly low cost and DIY friendly. You can simply swap existing extract fans with my system, and add fans as required by occupancy levels(rough guide, 1 extract fan per adult). The single room Heat Recovery Ventilation systems work out as very expensive, and you would need one for every room, and the same counterproductive pitfalls of a whole house MVHR system apply (very high air tightness required).1 point
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We're probably around 3 as an annual COP (I'll check shortly). 51 degree DHW and two tanks a day on a bad day is always going to come with a hit!0 points