BadgerBodger

Out of curiosity, I see these gypsum and cement based t&g floor boards, I was thinking of using these in my bathrooms with spreader plates below. Ok to tile direct? Thoughts on a postcard…

When I weighed it up for my job it worked out marginally cheaper per cube for wagons/volumetric. The part load charge tipped it over the the balance so less than 6 cube volumetric was cheaper because you don’t pay part load on the make-up. My builder called the first load in (volumetric) and the concrete co. Invoiced him rather than me. I saw his rate was a good bit cheaper than mine and paid up tipping the balance to volumetric all the way! Whenever I called it in myself thereafter I got his rate From then on, volumetric was cheaper no matter what the call off!

Yeah, I’m struggling here. two ways of doing this depending on skills of the groundworker easiest and simplest is cast the lower footing. wait. Cast the higher footing with desired overlap using shutters. Repeat as required for desired. No. Of steps and lay of the land. better would be a monolithic pour but but more demanding on skill. bricklayer doesn’t need to tie in to the step per se unless for some reason engineer says he should. If he did need to engineer would specify requirement I.e screw tie, resin helical, frame tie etc seems unlikely though

No time like now. The amount of jobs I start in the ground in the depths of winter is far higher than those which start in summer. It generally pans out ok unless there is a significant seasonal water table. Even that is generally manageable if less than ideal.

Red batten, nail. Never had an issue.

Mat well for main doors every time. Rubber backed coir. Comes in various depths. Cut to size. If you want something a bit more you can go with something like Forbo Coral. It’s industrial but they do some more „premium” colourways and patterns…

3.5 bar…

I know I’ll probably be told this is wrong but I pneumatic tested mine and left pressurised while pouring. And then beyond. I forgot and knicked the pipe which was flush up to the edge of the concrete in a rebate I left so I could screed the shower to falls and boy did I get a surprise.

Back to the heat pump compatible fan coils…. Does anyone have any recommendations??? or with the „fan assisted radiators” (basically a fan coil so far as I can see)? Or is running AC split system more effective? If so, I’m assuming heatpump could be downsized to offset capacity provided by AC heating/cooling

I may be wrong in part then. I went to as showroom, saw the product and what I saw was a solid core colour, with a patterned surface, but the routed grooves were solid colour like the core, indicating that the pattern was not throughout. It would seem the core and product is indeed some sort of composite, as you have deceived from tge product literature. But the patter IS only skin deep… in the products I saw certainly.. perhaps not in all… So still a solid grade laminate but not the same as trespa… Although looking at it, you can get Dekton cladding panels… that would be something

Sort of, more carpentry/joinery expertise than general builder but that’s the case for most worktop installs. You still have to be extremely precise to make sure it looks good. Pattern matching joints or book matching larger countertops to give the appearance of continuity. While I’ve been looking at it your chosen supplier comes out, templates the kitchen and then it appears to come to site pre cut. The installers will then piece in what is sent. All of them require finesse as it’s an immediately obvious feature that you experience day in, day out

I think dekton is what I’d normally call a solid grade laminate - the kind you see toilet cubicles and IPS (integrated panel systems, the things you see behind toilets in commercial buildings) in public buildings which you have high thoroughfare/risk of damage. solid grade as opposed to high pressure laminate which is essentially melamine cited chipboard or MDF. One of the most obvious differences is that there isn’t any stone/quartz and its a „printed” surface meaning the pattern isn’t continuous through the product - cut edges will be collared the same as the core material which may be black, grey, white etc. but because it has no natural material within, it is allegedly more resilient to damage by heat, chemical etc BUT in my view whilst that’s great in some settings, because the pattern is only on the top, any deep gouges or physical damage the impact is more obvious because it exposed the core which is patternless

Unfortunately not.

Yeah. It’s certainly a nice to have. The cast aluminium is at the top end for price (only cast iron above that I saw). I can’t really say I see much benefit to it. I’ve fitted all kinds of gutter and the stuff on my mums house is 30 years in and going fine (cheap plastic 1/2 round on spikes). Doesn’t look as nice is the only thing but cast effect plastic looks pretty damned good

Longevity, they say 50 years+ (more with maintenance) mine was mandated by the conservation officer (listed building) I wouldn’t have used it if not. Material cost - £6,500 +/- if I recall. 70m 125mm 1/2 round with 40m downpipe inc brackets, fixings etc for cast effect plastic you can half that for straight plastic less than half again