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elite last won the day on August 5

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  1. Many thanks @Olf & @Gone West I'll sound out a friendly SE and then see where it is best to go from there
  2. Thanks @Gone West The house is not on mains gas, so the plan is for heating to be provided by ASHP, my understanding is that this runs more efficiently at lower flow temps, so would be better suited to UFH than increased sized rads? How would you tackle this? Just dig out the bare earth area and fill with concrete?
  3. I'm in the early stages of renovating a cottage and am considering the options for the ground floor. This was previously quarry tiles mostly onto concrete, but some onto earth. In an ideal world the finished floor would be UFH, but to acheive that I would need to dig down for DPM, concrete and insulation - I can't afford to lose any height in the rooms due to low ceilings. Can anyone advise on depth I need to dig down and the prefered make up of the floor? Also, I am not sure of foundations, the more recent extension (1960s?), presumably has them, but the earlies part 1800(?) I guess might not. How do I know how deep it is safe to dig down? Thank you for any guidance!
  4. Yes, I think most (probably all), will use your monthly allowance then charge you at their normal rates
  5. I'm using what @Temp mentioned above - I have zero phone signal here, and now use wifi calling with three (wife does same on EE), doesn't need a base station/booster but does require a compatible handset and network - search for "wifi calling". Seems to work well for calls and texts if you have good wifi and reasonable internet
  6. Probably sorted long ago, but hotpoint error F06 seems to relate to an issue with the door lock
  7. If I was your neighbour I wouldn't be too happy with the look/fitting, but it is their roof. What is the damage to your roof? I would probably focus my energy there
  8. Include cables for WIFI access points I would go for IP cameras for CCTV - so just run network cables to these For wifi, go with a mesh rather than an extender - I use the ubiquiti stuff, these run on POE, so will need a switch that can supply that to the required standard Yes Your router's LAN connection can just be connected to one of the ports on your switch In an ideal world, your BT master socket would be in the central location (node 0), if that isn't possible, I would probably aim to have your ISP router connected to the master socket with a network cable back to your switch.
  9. It depends on the setup I usually prefer sockets, but often you will need HDMI or other connectors too
  10. As above - I've never regretted running an extra cable, but I have regretted not running an extra cable when I've had to mount some ugly mini switch somewhere to give me an extra port ! Patchbays give you a lot of flexibility, @IanR mentioned POE, but you can also patch telephone, video, etc that you may not want to terminate in a switch. For example, the CT clamp for our solar diverter runs from the distribution board, through our patchbay, and out to the device, not going through the switch
  11. Consider running at least two cables to each location - I would run 4 to main TV position Cable to each CCTV camera position I would wire back to a patch panel, rather than direct to the switch Consider small 19" rack and devices with rack ears to keep it neat Some switches can have very noisy fans Think about which devices require POE and make sure your switches can provide the standard of POE required Most ISPs will only "officialy" support their supplied modem/router, though you can use your own with most. I use my own and would just swap out for the ISP supplied one if they were trying to tell me a line fault was due to me running my own gear. I run Draytek router/modem, netgear switches and Ubiquiti wifi with no complaints. Would probably be tempted to go all ubiquiti if starting from scratch now
  12. You can knock a scribe tool up from an offcut, use a compass, a washer or splash the cash https://www.amazon.co.uk/Swanky-Scribe-Set-Pencils-Carpenters/dp/B07WBZ1N24/
  13. Is that the finished gap or will it be wider? If wider, I would scribe some trim to fit the gap and attach this to packers between the side of the wardrobe and the wall set back to the depth of the trim. Might be tricky if you are already tight against the wall
  14. Yes I believe so, as long as your strips are dimmable of course (the vast majority - if not all - are)