elite

I'm not sure what you are proposing here - can you post a diagram / photo? I have just replaced a roof on an outbuilding (no furring), this was my buildup: Joist -> OSB -> VCL -> Insuation -> OSB -> Rubber Fascias were fitted after the deck

Very similar to my first house, in our case we were planning to go into the loft with a rear dorma, which might be trickier for you with the orientation of the stairs. In the end we decided it wasn't worth it and ended up moving. I'd probably want to retain the full bathroom on the first floor, so would add the third bedroom on the ground floor, but this may not be practical if we are talking a young family.

I'd check both their deeds and yours. What are their access rights, can these be maintained while work is carried out? As Roudtuit says I'd agree it is reasonable, give notice and do it. It sounds like it will be complete quickly and they are unlikely to want a dispute with a neighbour if they are in the process of selling

Sketchup Make 2017 was the last free non-web version, it is no longer available from the developer, but I beleive it can still be found on CNET and the internet archive (I'd check the file hashes to make sure it hasn't been tampered with). Drop me a PM if you need it and can't find it

No knowledge of them, but data are you wanting to extract? Using CT clamps and something like https://openenergymonitor.org/ might be a quicker / easier route?

30Mbps should be good enough for video calls, but of course depends on how you're connecting and building construction etc. I know I would prefer a wired connection. RE openreach, make sure they understand that it isn't a new site and there is presumably a pair on the pole that served the bungalow (unless someone else is now using them of course). Have you checked altnets? Giganet and CityFibre might be in your neck of the woods

Can you do warm roof but take back the house roof to give you the height? You need careful detail around the transition to ensure ventilation into the cold (I assume) house roof. An wider external pic might help others give more suggestions

Interesting, unusal for a switch to cause such a fault, but I hadn't realised it was an attic switch which I guess is more "exposed"

You need to keep splitting the circuit until you narrow down the cable with the fault. This will be a lot easier with a tester that can do insulation resistance testing. You can pick up used testers on ebay, but probably cheaper / easier to get a spark in

How is the pointing? The flashing doesn't look the tidiest. I had similar but was able to remove the stack, and the roofer said it was so bad he didn't need tools to remove the bricks 😬 Has a good roofer had a look at it?

Is the floor "bouncy" or is it just squeeking boards? If just the later, as @joe90 says, just get some scews driven in to pull everything tight

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/altro-disabled-bathroom-turn-&-release-suit-8mm-spindle-satin-stainless-steel-234592 ?

How many cores? How is it installed? This is a useful calculator: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html

Not a plumber Is there air in the system? Does the pump have somewhere to pump from? e.g. are radiator valves / TRVs open?

I was going to say I'd want the control room bigger if it was for recording. My knowledge is more on a recording build, but essentially bass will be your biggest issue, so lots of mass and decouple everything where possible. You will also want to kill reflections etc especially if you're loud, so soft furnishings will help a lot with this, if you're not able to build anything in at construction. Also bass traps in unused corners (wall ceiling junction is a corner too 😉 )