Leaderboard

Thats not the main question - very far from it. The problem is much deeper than that. The key issues here are attitudes to problem solving, and having sufficient humility and emotional intelligence to work with other people: difficult people by your own description. Lets see if I've got this right. Two groups of people, who don't get on with one another, are in dispute about a wall. If nobody does anything at all, over time, the wall will collapse. If nothing is done about that, you will lose some benefit from the land. Now, there is a choice between; Do nothing Argue the matter in the courts Rebuild the wall yourself Rebuild the wall with your neighbour The first choice means everyone loses The second choice means everyone loses and everyone pays a lawyer's mortgage for a month or two. Third: you spend some money and time, probably less than a lawyer's fees. In the third choice, you get a grip of your own emotions, and start to build a relationship with your neighbour. Little steps. Over time. And in maybe a year or two, you might just be able to agree to work on the project together. Maybe even share the cost. Who knows, you might even make another friend. It'll be hard. But you'll be proud of yourself. You'll have achieved something rare. A victory in the fight you have with yourself. For all of us, that fight is the only fight worth having.

Trying to be reasonable and the bigger person (not necessarily friendly) is rarely ever a mistake. Buy the house next time it comes up for sale. Problem solved. We have one near neighbour. She died a few months ago and the house is sitting empty. We are considering approaching the family later this year with an offer to buy it. It’s in a right state internally but has an acre of land and a bit of potential.

We have picked architects twice, one for a project we are still in the middle of. I followed the same process for both, I went through the RIBA awards (sorry non RIBA architects it’s just easy to look through the website) for the last few years, looking for applicable projects, ie. related to what we want, and/or have a style/taste we like (also obviously location might be important). Looked at their websites, made a shortlist of names. Then we wrote up a brief, basically a project narrative saying what we wanted to get out of the property design, who we are, how we live, and how much we want to spend. Basically try and make this interesting, although you are paying for a service, you are also pitching a project you are going to work on with them for potentially a fairly long time - you aren’t going to buy their interest because your budget is probably tight, so sell them on the fascinating aspects of your dream home or whatever. Finally we sent a dozen or so emails with this brief, and a short couple of sentences tailored to each architect / firm about why we liked them in particular (ie. what you saw in their award worthy work from your initial ‘research’ ) and why they would be perfect for this amazing creative opportunity etc… Some never respond, some say budget is too low, they are too busy, they have given up architecture and gone to live in an Ashram etc… the remaining ones who sound interested we interviewed and got a written quote from. Both times we got great architects, who we really enjoy/enjoyed working with, and neither project is even halfway to a million pound budget. Architects are artists, give them an opportunity to be creative, this does not mean over budget, you can be creatively cheap and it can get very interesting for everyone involved trying to keep to it. I also tried the RIBA picking system but did not find it that useful. We didn’t see any turtleneck wearing architects, although one we interviewed did have a Tesla.

I've been thinking about this all day. All the above options are good but they will attract more cost unfortunately. The more I look at this the more I'm unsure if the MVHR is the right option. There's a section on the ground floor where you have 7 ducts crossing through a 225mm joist. Then what looks like 9 ducts passing through a steel beam. You're going to end up doing some serious boxing out here to get it all hidden, as well as a myriad of extra elbows in the ducts. The main purpose of any ventilation system is to provide top quality indoor air. The MVHR adds the heat recovery part to save some energy. It's debateable if it actually saves any money given the cost of filters and initial outlay. Something like demand controlled ventilation or continuous extract ventilation would also mean high indoor air quality but would be much easier to plumb in. You need not go to the hassle of making the loft a warm space either. I would run 8 ducts from a central unit placed in the loft, 2 to the ground floor W/C, 2 to the kitchen, 2 to the ensuite and 2 to the bathroom via 8 port manifold in the loft and silencer. Times 1 X Times 4 X Times X 1 Times X 1 A variable speed controller and some ducting, a few wall inlets and vents and you're home and dry. Probably less than £1000 and very simple to install by comparison. You could pair it to an ESHP like of these for about £2,500 and you'll get all then energy back you would have done from the MVHR as well as a COP of above 3 on your DHW heating. Also, something has been niggling me, airtightness hasn't been thoroughly planned in from the start. No great problem for 3 ACH maybe, but it does mean that you'll have lots of small holes. The big risk is moisture from the house finding it's way into the structure and causing rot. Running a continuous extract system would ensure that any small cracks only let air in from the outside and not visa versa by running the house at a slightly negative pressure. Any damp air is taken by the ventilation system and dumped safely outside. With diligent caulking (flexible caulk) around all penetrations you could probably avoid the need for airtightness membranes etc too. Have a think and I'd like to know what the collective thinks also. I have some other thoughts about the build too looking at the pic but one step at a time!!

Why not just raise the ground level - there will be plenty of spoil looking for a home during the build. Then you keep access right up to their fence.

Yes but not on external doors.

Bricks are surprisingly porous/not waterproof so there is always a slight risk of water bridging the cavity when CWI is inistalled. I've also heard the graphite coated bead system is less likely to allow this to happen but I've not read any proper studies. If the outside of your house was rendered that should pretty much eliminate this risk.

We are looking at this right now and we have been told, 3 sources and here, that you should aim at the unit running between 50 & 65% of max capacity in normal mode.

I would disagree with the above ( sorry again ). I almost always install these in corners of the rooms, diagonally opposite the doorway wherever practicable.

Can you elaborate on that? It's not something I've seen/heard before. My understanding is that the primary driver for the location of supply vents is such that maximum cross-flow/mixing of air is achieved through the room thus, usually, being as far from the door (through which the air is ultimately expelled) as possible. The exception to this is large mixed-purpose rooms (such as 'family' rooms that might combine lounge, kitchen and dining areas) which contain both supply and extract vents, but again the same principle of maximising distance between supply and extract holds true.

You are meant to supply air fairly close to windows, otherwise risk of condensation, within 40cm to 50cm of a windows should be fine. And in bathrooms you want to extract close to the centre of the room, but taking into account window position as well. Does your design allow for that?

Thanks for all the comments, the house they have has no off road parking, clearly they purchased the house thinking they were going to get my garages . Since Ive lived here many people have lived in that house & moved on, its not very good. I would not be suprised if they sold up & moved on at some point, I'll just sit tight & see how it goes. I'm not going to be friendly, I think that would be a mistake.

The way extrusion modifies the polymers means it want to bend naturally. As a rule when I worked in the plastics industry, we avoided anything extruded. Except bagging material obviously. So stick it down.

1. Start over, mediation can work, if you don’t want to mediate that makes you look as bad as them. If they refuse to mediate it makes them look bad.https://www.gov.uk/how-to-resolve-neighbour-disputes/use-a-mediation-service. 2. If you are building for profit, absorb the costs to sort the wall if is is problematic to your build. Delays will cost you due to inflation. It might be their responsibility but it’s you that has a problem with. 3. Solicitors love this stuff it is a cash cow. Regardless how legally or morally correct you may be with the dispute sometimes it’s just best to walk away from a conflict like this for the greater good of your health and wallet. I follow a mantra of what goes around come around with genuinely horrible people. 4. Recently a chap murdered a couple over a parking dispute. Is it really worth it?

By regarding the 'cretin' as your neighbour. As of value (even though you don't think he's worth a fart in a cullender) That ( '...its probably built this way...') is where he /she is. Its a starting point. What single thing do you think you could do to bridge the gap between you? Break the 'job' into really small bits. Just a tiny thing .. maybe a smile, a cheerful 'good morning'. I'm sorry but I haven't got the time to go into much detail. May I suggest you do a bit of reading on Conflict Resolution (Here's a search for you to look at when you've got time) Tiktok do a great series of videos on conflict resolution too

If the wall does collapse - which may take several years or not happen at all - I cannot see what would compel your neighbour to rebuild or replace it.

I’m a good boy now and have learnt that any smutty remarks are beneath my integrity. Therefore I respectfully decline to “ raise to the occasion “ . Moving forwards I wish all your dirty minds a happy and prosperous new year with all your shagging .

That looks like a King Post wall

@pocster : hint: the Ad where grandma finds her daughter's best friend buzzing away happily in her daughters handbag (switches it on, puts it to her ear) - with the teenage grandchildren all agog, watching and listening - with interest - for once . Come on lad , rise to the occasion.

Thanks, I sort of guessed that as immediatly regretted posting the question before reading some of the previous messages! Much to learn, looks like a great resource...

Cue @pocster to come in and say something inappropriate in 3... 2... 1...

Ok I give in I have finally flipped my lid after 12 weeks of dealing with this house on my own. My friend just came in and I marched her upstairs to hear the noise only to discover that my battery operated toothbrush had somehow got switched on and was vibrating!! This is what happens when your just waiting on the next disaster 🤣

That should be the BuildHub motto...

Well it sounds like a nightmare neighbour scenario. No way would I want to build a house there knowing all that unless it was far enough away from their boundary that I could put up my own boundary screening and never know they were there.

Care to take the cover off one of the failed back plates . psu's and post some photos. I have just fitted 8 of these to the local village hall. Looks like I need to schedule replacing them again in 10 to 11 years......

We ended up with MBC. As we are project managing it hugely de-risked the process getting one supplier to do both the insulated slab and timber frame. We've gone for their passive standard one and they are starting on site next week. The only issue I've had with them is the PM seems to rub everyone up the wrong way but the technical designer we've had has been excellent so far. We did have Scotframe as a second choice, but we would have had to engage a second contractor to do the foundations. Then they blew it by accidently forwarding us an internal email complaining about how picky we were 😁

Oh yeah. Need you to give you a call about it. Can't get it to work.

At a junction, or house driveway exit, you need visibility from a point 2.4 metres back from the road edge to the road surface a certain distance along (distance depends on speed limit of road) So work on the basis you need to leave 2.4 metres all round the garden for visibility. Would that give you enough enclosed garden? If you are doing this with hedges, you don't seek planning permission, you plant a hedge and wait as it grows to see if anyone complains. The planning law on fences is now open to so much interpretation. In the old days anything between the house and the road would need PP. Now a fence over 2M only needs planning if "adjacent" to the road which is very subjective. If I really wanted a fence, I would just put it where I wanted it, leaving a space between the fence and the road for visibility, and if you do get enforcement action, then it is not going to cost you much to move it back further. In line with the corner of your garage and parallel to the house wall would be a good starting point. Squaring it off like that would probably double the area of enclosed side garden. The fence would go from the corner of the garage to about where your sketch shows the hedge changing angle. I bet that is more than 2.4M at that point. and it would leave an area outside the fenced garden next to the drive that would be easy to turn into additional parking if you ever needed more parking (all the parking on the road suggests that would be a good idea) EDIT: The blue shows where I would put the fence.

Dumpy level is not a theodolite, dumpy is a small automatic level and theodolite is for measuring vertical and horizontal angles/setting out etc. pic here is a dumpy level.

Unless you've got an anemometer you don't know if it *is* slight. @Conor are you finished with mine? looks like @pocster could do with one for a bit...

420m2 CMLC

Hi everyone, First time self builder and under the age of 30, with little experience or knowledge of construction...learning on the job type thing atm. I bought some land in North London back in 2018 and finally started the build (basement excavation and construction) back in June 2022. I have come up against a whole host of problems (Structural Engineer going into administration during the works, party wall agreement issue that lasted over a year, angry & gossiping neighbours - I live in the house opposite the site... & insurance claims against me, etc...) but have also overcome most of them now! The new build is roughy 110m2 internal space consisting of a basement with lightwell, ground floor and partial first floor, all within a tight space. I have a really great civil and groundworks guy who has helped me so much a long the way. Current stage is the finishing bits of the basement - drainage and pouring of slabs. Next stage, get the steels in and also the hollowcore planks! I will definitely be a regular poster for help! Thanks in advanced guys and can't wait to be part of the community!

This is also a bit for all on BH. I'll assume that you are going to build a home for yourself rather than just looking at this as a commercial opportunity? If so (commercial) then you should be sticking your hand in your pocket for professional advice and not be tooling about on BH for free advice as folk on BH also think about their neighbours. I do a bit of claims work I but don't just act for developers / builders I also act to defend home owners against development in an SE capacity. I hope you get my drift? Here is a thing. As an SE I do a bit of claims against say the NHBC.. by the time I get called up folk are often at their wits end, suffered a lot and have spent loads of cash, often unnecessarily. Positive note: Let's assume you are building your forever home.. you want to get on with your neighbours, some can become great friends, keep an eye out on your property when you are away.. gives your kids a neighbour to go to in an emergency or you too when you get older and need a hand out. That has a value. Holding that train of thought.. you want to get on with your neighbours... really you do in the long run. I'm stating the obvious but your neighbours may feel they were there first.. have ownership of the view / privacy and been able to plant up their garden the way we they wanted. This is human nature.. imagine yourself in their shoes? If you can't then you need to learn more about negotiation. I'm not suggesting you go all soft.. but to negotiate well you have to put yourself in your "enemies" shoes and if you want a forever home you need to compromise to get good neighbours and what you want without a big legal barny and the risk that comes with it. Lastly never under estimate your neighbours, some may have friends / have relatives who may be with KC's, Lawyers QS's, Architechts, SE's and CE's the list goes on.. and if they feel you are bullying they will jump to their defense and often work pro bono.. I do and can tell you I can quickly rack up the stakes for you just as an SE.. to the point where you will often wish you had never gone down the legal route. Imagine your neighbour came on BH looking for advice? How would that play out? To make a start on resolving something like this, your post suggests you are already frustrated? Go back to the start. Ask: 1/ Is the wall dangerous.. is it a high wall? say greater than 1.0m in height. Could it hurt someone. Lets say the boundary wall is 1.2m - 2.0 high. As a rule of thumb if the top of the wall is more than 1/3 over the centre of gravity then that is a good starting basis as an SE for making the case that the wall is not safe. Say the wall is in old money 1 foot / 12 inches thick. The middle third is 12/3 = 4 inches. Thus if the wall is leaning out more than 2" (50mm) at the top then you question the stability. Next is the condition of the mortar.. if it has deteriorated then that has to be considered. If roots have penetrated the wall.. again this leads to instability. 2/ What do I want to build? How close to the disputed wall do I want to go? Best thing to do is to mull this over at your end. Post a few photos and your ideas / plans. The good news is that you probably have more options than you realise, often with a bit of tact things can be resolved. I totally get that you feel you may want to go legal.. but you'll just suffer grief. The first thing you need to do is fully understand the problem. Why is the wall bulging and what are the consequences. Safety is paramount and that is where your best argument lies. Unless the wall is unsafe your neighbours are probably doing nothing wrong! It may well fall to you to prove it is unsafe. Also if you build something next to the wall that compromises it further then the responsibility lies with you.. be careful what you wish for!

I've not fitted it yet. It'll definitely support 2 layers its fine in the British gypsum video.

+1. As you hunt for your plot simultaneously do two things. This forum is your new nighttime reading. Go into every post starting with most recent and read everything. Even the less interesting subjects or things you might not think relevant to you might turn out to be.You will begin to get a real education in so much subjects. I don’t think there is anything that hasn’t been covered, sometimes repeatedly. It’s like a free Open University of Self Building. One of the best thing I found about self building was learning so much stuff during the process, including from here. Secondly google is your friend. We are not google. Please don’t ask us something you can find out yourself. If you do post queries supply as much relevant information as you can and we love relevant photos as it makes it easier to answer questions. Many of us have been in your exact position. And after several years of hard work with our own projects we are normally have a bit of time and enjoy helping and advising. 99.9% chance someone here will have experienced a dilemma you will face. Sometimes we may have different opinions on things but will always offer our best advice. welcome.

I'm planning this with an 11kW Iconica Hybrid inverter, just looking at the number of strings ill end up with before purchasing. Change of £2k and does UPS / EPS etc with full throughput from batteries to house CU, with micro-second changeover so pretty much seamless transition. G100 approved so no issues getting signed off. AFAIK MCS only applies to the panels, and not the inverter / batteries as the panels are the generators ( Microgeneration Certification Scheme ). The Tesla kit is very complex / expensive, and the changeover times IIRC are around 5 seconds; from power cut to EPS on. You need to buy a Gateway / Bridge or something to get their changeover facility bolted on. With a hybrid, everything on the D/C side is invisible to the grid ( so you can have as much capacity behind the inverter as you like ) whereas regular A/C coupled equipment needs a DNO approval for the sum of the panels + battery, which sometimes gets refused or a 'set amount' is granted.

25mm EPS, DPM, 200mm EPS, ~ 95mm concrete, topped with SLC.

But levelling compound is not structural, it sits on top of a concrete or screed slab to make it flatter. You cannot put it over insulation, it has no strength jump up and down on it and it will just break up. Needs 75mm of traditional screed or 50mm of liquid screed over insulation for the strength.

Something that might change your thinking, if you have solar, is that Octopus will pay 15p/kWh for export on Cosy and only 4.1p/kWh on GO/Intelligent. For me this makes a big difference and means that Cosy would be cheaper than GO/Intelligent even though I have an EV. - I have solar + Heat Pump + EV.

I'm another one who didn't have a problem. Our tank was kept at 45C and the shower mixers worked fine as did the thermostatically controlled valve on the bath.

Not my experience. We run our tank at 50 degrees and there's no issue at all with the mixers, even as the tank draws down and the hot water temperature drops. They're Crosswater Mike, for reference. Actually, we have a cheap mixer set in the downstairs shower and it's fine too.

I keep my tank at 50 C but the output from the tank is mixed down to a lower temperature, about 42 C I think. This is mainly because my OH deplores water that is painfully hot. We have three shower mixers and they all work perfectly well.

Never noticed a problem.

Our el-cheapo mixers work perfectly well down to mid-40s.

I think we need to stop a bit, because we are missing the exact regulation. I was under the the impression that the section immediately in front of the door has to be flat not sloping. So you need a 1200 square dead flat before your slope. I have heard of someone in the same boat, I would cover that whole ramp in plastic sheet going up the wall, then pour a very weak mix of concrete screed on top and get the height you want. After it’s inspected smash it up with a hammer and lift the plastic.

Simple Jack, remember him @pocster, big lad?

You lucky devil.

We are still talking about the same thing, right? I've read your posts before. Yes, I suspect so. I think at the others have said it's much harder feeling the effects of sucking rather than blowing. Oh dear.

We have the smallest area housing in Europe. It is quite hard to disagregate the true numbers unless the experiment was set up with the express purpose of finding something out. I would like to play with their data and see what comes out. I did hear a good term about data collection yesterday. 'Like trying to count the number of vegans in a town but asking customers in the burger bar'