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This is snagging and should be undertaken by the seller under warranty. It can be caused by uneven or incorrectly fitted joists, shrinkage, lack of support for the boards (such as additional noggins required) or insufficient plasterboard screws.

Hooks prevent the slates from chattering. Also, should a slate break it will not fall. Less chance of damaging the slate as well.

https://www.rossmartin.co.uk/vat/vat-cases/5833-multiple-diy-housebuilder-claims-permitted It also appears you dont have to prove completion....

Always do mate ? Makes life a bit less shite on balance but with the hospital appointments starting to stack up you start to wonder.

Mine was hooked and frankly unless you are looking for them you can’t see them. If I were to slate a roof I would definitely use hooks.

i really dont know, i used those small micro inverters and the sparky said it needed earth but your could be different. fingers crossed.

Nail or hook are more a regional thing aren't they? Your wife is normally right - and if you do it differently and it goes wrong she will remind you for ever. Are you installing yourself? If so you make the choice, or your wife may do, if you getting someone else to install go with their choice, or the issue is your if the wind come from the wrong direct any any fall off.

the batten support spacing is in the manual, basically run your normal battens then add more to match the GSE fixing locations.

No, the whole house gets metered at the cheap rate during E7 times. The switched output to the off peak CU is just a convenient way to turn on the storage heaters at night when the cheap rate is on without you having to have your own timer.

@Thorfun you say you slated the roof as specified by the panel suppliers, therefore it’s their responsibility to fit their panels so they don’t cause an issue, get their take on the problem (and report back).

hmm...might be able to slip a 5mm plastic packer underneath them I guess. could be worth a try and something I could do without too much difficulty (although I'll probably wait until the roofer is back on-site!). it's a good idea and I'll discuss it with him.

your objections unless on planning grounds would't matter a jot anyway.

It’s odd that the slates only kick up where the joins between panels are ? the panels themselves don’t seem to be causing the problem

leaded flat roof can look nice, much extra cost and faff though....

Yes - GRP but look crap in my opinion

Just put numbers 1 to whatever above the rcbos and then a separate list as per PeterW

Print your own - laminate it and stick it above the cabinet. Make it easy to read

This happens with towel rails. They don’t circulate properly as the flow goes the shortest route.

any chance the top bars are fake, with no flow through? also, have you bled *both* sides at the top?

1. Yes. Although the word 'normal' is, in this context a little misplaced 2. We cannot, at this remove, guess motive. 3. No. How you react to other people is unique. One person's pressure can be anothers gentle joke. As in the post immediately above, one man's duplicity is anothers forgetfulness. The Internet is full of examples of people objecting to planning applications. Read some. Make your own mind up about the application and : say what you think based on evidence, not feeling.

I think it may be an airlock elsewhere, I think that’s what @nod means, if you shut the others off and bleed water from that rad for a while if there is an airlock in the pipework it may force it through.

Turn the other radiators off and let some water out of the towel rail Then bleed it

But they do change. And thats the point. As you say elsewhere, in their practice - as opposed to what they write - the only thing that's consistent, is inconsistency. That's what brings a red mist across the eyes of anyone who tries to conform to a set of written rules. I got as far as I did in my professional career by reading instructions carefully, and giving the author of the question or the rule exactly what they want(ed). And reading the answers to questions I in turn put to others with great care and attention (Licences to Practice were at stake) . I'm good at it. When I got things wrong, I always had to be open and honest about it. Here we have an organisation so obviously sick that they can't admit to any failing. For an organisation like the HMRC to knowingly, wilfully flout their own rule set makes for a culture among its customers of Well-if-you-are-going-to-fook-me-don't-be-suprised-if-I-try-hard-to-shaft-you. Its outrageous. Disgusted of Lancashire.

The issue might be uneven joists? If the PB is not flat to the joist when screwed, the screw will bend the PB towards the joist. It will sit there like a wound up spring, and movement as someone walks above may pop the screw through the board. It may not be the plasterers fault.

I don't recall either, but HMRC has a long history of not changing their policies in response to tribunal decisions. If a higher court issues a decision, they might do, but based on how they've behaved with the DIY VAT reclaim system over the years, I suspect they'll change the rules by the absolute minimum amount possible.

The UFH pump would normally come with a temperature control valve, the different temperatures would be set at the manifold. You just run the system at the highest temperature of two systems. Some things to discuss with your plumber. Although your boiler has a good modulation range, will it short cycle, when several circuits have met their demand (no flow required) and the weather is say 10 to 12 degs. Your demand for heat will be very low. Do you need or have you already got a buffer tank. If you are well insulated, it may not be worth installing weather compensation, we have it, but ended up turning it off, as it started to cause temperature under and over swings. Instead we ended up setting a temp that gave the least over swing by trail and error.

Last week I received my claim acknowledgment letter from HMRC. It states clearly that I am unable to make further claims. Don’t know if this was always a standard thing that was said, or in response to this case.

@Temp that is no bad thing as in our case the single claim presents a cash flow challenge as we will need the VAT reclaim to complete the project and would have to forgo any further reclaim. I wonder if our grass roots VAT inspectors have been informed.

Personally I wouldn't rely on this just yet but it might help anyone that has made a mistake and missed something.

My understanding is no. The development has to be lawful and qualify for zero rating when the materials are purchased. i recall a case where someone got PP for a granny annex that couldn't be seperately occupied so wasn't eligible for the VAT reclaim scheme. Then half way through building it they got the planning condition removed making it eligible for the VAT reclaim. HMRC decided only materials purchased after the condition was removed could be reclaimed. I don't know if it went to appeal. Edit: or maybe it just has to be legal when the materials are incorporated into the building?

Bit late but.. Normally the grippers are fitted about 8-10mm away from the skirting not right against it. The carpet is hooked over spikes on the gripper then tucked down into that gap. See this vid.. Skip to 1:48...

I went the Ubiquiti route about 8 months ago replacing my mismatch of wifi routers and access points with a Dream Machine Pro and 2 Wifi 6 Lite AP's. Have to say, once set up and configured (several VLAN's etc) it's been faultless running 24/7 since install. What it has highlighted is how absolutely rubbish my Virgin modem box is with drop outs and slow speeds, even on a 350Mb connection. For the most part the reliability has at least reduced the previous constant whining from my kids about how bad the wifi is.

Yep. I understand the single point of failure concept but, as you say, it’s a home environment and I’m not going to pay for multiple redundant systems! no CCTV at the moment but it’s on the cards for the new house. Just running the Dream machine pro, 24 port switch and Wi-Fi APs which will be transferred to the new house when it’s done. The beauty of the setup is I can add APs in the new house running from the old house if required before Openreach put our new connection in. oh, and a QNAP NAS running VMs and movies.

i) 5A radial circuit connected to Loxone relay or dimmer. ii) Loxone nano relay local to socket. iii) Shelly (or similiar) in socket back-box. iv) Smart plug v) Shelly (or similiar) inline in appliance lead. vi) Smart bulbs. If you are using Loxone i) and ii) will be the simplest approach. That said, with the other options you can still bring everything together under Loxone, you just need to prodcuts that you can integrate with via HTTP call. Doable, just an extra hoop of two to jump through.

If this is a warm roof adding insulation under the roof timbers might cause condensation in the future. Best to keep all insulation on the outside on a warm roof.

Good question! HMRC offer a comprehensive list of what you can and cannot claim for but I don’t recall reading about a timescale guide. Hopefully, someone here can help. I’m hoping it’s a “yes”!

i cannot recall to be honest. he just showed me the beading. but my other carpet did not look like the one now

Carpet very rarely goes under the skirtings, never seen it. The grippers go around the room, normal a gap between gripper and skirtings. Underlay goes inside grippers to fill room. Carpet is stretched on to the grippers Carpet cut and rolled into gap between gripper and skirtings. Either, no gripper, not stretched correctly, or cut under size. We have twist pile and the edges are tucked under.

Then don't I’m not sure you are helping your cause Coops

I’ll say something to her but it won’t be thank you

Contentious self builds in established residential areas smoke out the crazys that's for sure.

But as @pocster said above, a span exists between these poles, so it’s been done before so very little will change. I hope they accidentally dig up their gas/lecky/water ?. When I was working for BT, we had to renew a Span and a house owner refused to let us in to do it so we pulled two new spans in with the existing one, job done ?.

As above. I'd have a look on some old maps perhaps, to see if you used to have two next door neighbours rather than one. 'Render for a reason' were my builders words of wisdom when we did a renovation job. If the brickwork was all in decent order, it's unlikely anyone would go to the expense of rendering it. If the render is coming off anyway, you can make the call when you see what's left behind. The bit you've taken off looks like it was just done for continuity between gable end and garden wall tbh.

I don’t think your house was originally end of terrace,& as such your now ‘Gable’ wall would’ve been a ‘party’ wall,built to a lower standard of accuracy as it would’ve been plastered (I believe the Victorians gave a lot of party wall work to the apprentices to give them experience.) Its entirely possible that once the render is removed you have nice,rustic looking brickwork underneath but be prepared for that not to be the case. Also likely that the fireplaces you will expose are just filled with common brickwork or blocks.

Gas Pipework Jointing Before jointing pipework the pipe ends must be cut square and deburred, especially where wheel type pipe cutters are used. Joints must be made in such a manner that they are mechanically strong, gas tight, free from internal obstruction to the flow of gas and exert no undue stresses on the fitting(s). All jointing compounds and tapes must comply with BS 6956 or BS EN 751-1 to 3 as appropriate. Fibrous materials such as hemp must not be used with the exception of existing long screws where, in conjunction with jointing compounds, it seals the back nut of the fitting. Copper Pipework Capillary joints are the most popular joints used to joint copper pipework, however, it should be noted that there are some basic rules that should be followed. The correct fluxes and fittings must always be used. Fittings must comply with BS EN1254-1 to 5 (formerly BS 864). Fittings may be end feed (Figure 1) which need solder to be applied to the joint, or solder ring (Figure 2) which has the correct quantity of solder contained within an annular ring inside the fitt Quote

Thanks have added some notes to my plan so I remember this ? @jack yes good spot - I expect to have utilities enter at back left so water softener could be good here to keep kitchen / utility free. @Dudda yes thinking to have hot & cold manifold and then a hot return from the top floor manifold. Will be using some form of home automation technology - currently trialing Fibaro Z wave in current house) so may use the elec cabinet as the hub for that. Was thinking to have a small AV cupboard but if I can fit it all in here then that could be even better - hadn't really thought of doing that. Luckily my initial plan shows this opposite end to wet stuff and may be prudent to have cabinet 100mm off the floor as well...just in case. Only issue may putting laundry on the cabinet if we put a drying rack in here ?