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About Hilldes

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  1. Our steels at the glazed gables are portal frames - below in pink...
  2. We have glazed gables, with tilt & turn doors, triple glazed alu clad. £3.3K each inc VAT, excl delivery...
  3. I got 5 quotes and there was not that much difference in the prices.... I would have said go for fewer quotes as it is not just time for the buyer but also the seller. These quotes were though direct from manufacturers and it looks like even Velfac now no longer supply direct (rh2205's post), so with their partner/agent/distributor model it may indeed be wise to get more quotes.
  4. Our Velfac windows involved dealing directly with the manufacture as far as I am aware. The first quote (contact via web) was May 2020 so policy May have changed since. Velfac don’t install and appear to provide details of the sale to a network of installation partners - we magically got a couple of quotes from installers. Our front door was via Kloeber which again was direct with the manufacturer as far as I’m aware. First quote also May 2020. Our roof lights are Velux and you can buy direct from their web site but we got them at lower cost from Jewson. We self installed all our windows.
  5. Thanks @willbish will try your technique.
  6. Thanks for the tips and pics @willbish. We had a play that involves a similar technique - thread the pipe straight through the line of joists in a straight line then withdraw a loop down a gap between two joists. See pic. This worked really well - the pipe was on the decoiler outside in the sun on a hot day. Will try for real in a few days (need to complete fire protection lining of the plant rooms - a separate thread). Plan will be to withdraw one loop then secure in spreader plates from below before pulling down the next loop. Then cut pipe from the decoiler and thread through for the return back to the manifold. Hoping the warm weather will return.
  7. Thansk @gravelld Can't see that particular product. Is it this one which appears like compriband? https://www.iso-chemie.eu/en-GB/sealing-solutions/sealing-products/multi-functional-sealing-tapes/iso-bloco-multi-functional-tape Or this one which appears to add airtightness..? https://www.iso-chemie.eu/en-GB/sealing-solutions/sealing-products/multi-functional-sealing-tapes/iso-bloco-one
  8. Not everyone will agree with all of these but this has my thinking, relative to a render on blockwork external skin: can be quicker, can be more accurate (e.g. around window reveals), can DIY some of it (battening for render board and the boarding itself if you have time). Not sure on relative costs as I never looked closely at the blockwork option. The house is a modern design and the render looks really 'crisp' and 'sharp'.
  9. We have a render on render board outer skin on timber frame. The mortgage lender is fine with this, but the surveyor acting for the lender said it would have been a different story if we had specified timber cladding on timber frame.
  10. There are some opportunities to reduce threading through joists e.g. this one where the top chord of the posi is supported on the glulam beam and the bottom chord is cut short. Unfortunately, most of the joist ends are not like this.
  11. 22mm Caberdeck + (1) underlay and carpet or (2) tiles in bathrooms
  12. Going to have a play today with some longer pipe offcuts from the slab UFH installation. I know you and others are going to be right. Looking at overfloor, looks like the total additional depth would be 28mm for Wunda: 20mm boards: https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/shop/home/quick-shop/wundatherm-quick-shop/boards-quickshop/underfloor-heating-board-wundatherm-premium/ 4mmx2 duo boards: https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/shop/home/overfloor-retro-fit-solutions/wundatherm-underfloor-heating-boards/7mm-duo-board-system/ Besides the headroom issue, may also bring floor level too high to open Juliet doors, but will take a look today.
  13. Great idea, but I don't think you can notch the chords of posi joists.
  14. I am effectively the M&E consultant and I can't run away 😀 Agree its not going to be easy. The main reason for reluctance to install on top of the floor deck is limited headroom on the first floor - but if it just will not work below, we'll install above. A lesson for anyone placing a contract with a timber frame company, you might ask if they can pause the frame erection while you install spreader plates on the posi joists and lay the UFH pipes, then you discover when they arrive to erect they have manufactured the joists and deck into cassetes.
  15. Agree that would be a nice solution. My UFH is to be fitted* to the underside of the floor deck in aluminium spreader plates. I'm thinking the acoustic insulation would be needed immediately below the UFH spreader plates in order to stop the UFH pipes heating the services pipes and cables (and maybe to help focus heat from the UFH pipes upwards). When Wunda specified the spreader plates, they also specified a layer of EPS insulation immediately under the spreader plates, but I omitted this as 100mm of acoustic insulation would do the same thing - provided it was immediately below the spreader plates. * when I say the UFH pipes are to be fitted beneath the floor deck I have not yet tried to thread the pipe through posi joists. From laying the ground floor pipes in the slab, I now know the pipe is like a snake with rigour mortis 😥 (it is the pert-al-pert I think). When we try this in the next few days, it might prove impossible and we'll have to install the UFH pipes on top of the floor deck.