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  1. That is a good point @Brickie - I was assuming the drip bead/bell cast on the render would throw water down the front face of the brickwork. Not sure how I would seal given there needs to be be a ventilation gap with insect mesh between the render board and brick.
  2. Thanks @Temp what finish do you have above the plinth brick?
  3. many thanks @PeterW for the alternatives. Will check out the blue bricks first.
  4. Thank @Brickie - so staffordshire blues are the blue/grey engineering bricks? Like the idea of using any facing bricks then some form of cap or tray on top of bricks going behind the render board. Might get a bit pricey with lead - got a 60m perimeter. Any alterlnative materials?
  5. Thanks @PeterW will maybe order a few to see how they look alongside engineering bricks.
  6. Been struggling to locate plinth bricks. The house will be all white render and grey aluminium window frames, so not keen on red plinth bricks that most retailers appear to stock. Can't locate alternatives by web search - e.g. grey bricks. Anybody know of suppliers of alternative colours of plinth bricks...or... Alternative detailing below the rendered finish at DPC level (e.g. extend render board down to the ground beam and fix brick slips).. Here is the detailing as designed:
  7. The crunching munching machine is on site today...
  8. Here is my experience this year - I wish there had been more on here to help guide the supplier selection process... Kingspan Timber Solutions- very helpful but ultimately could not get price down to a reasonable level for the insulated frame. Did have reasonably priced options for a weathertight package. The only supplier I came across that offered 89mm studs as opposed to 140mm - to be fair they did offer their 140mm stud option but noting above point on price. Not many options for insulation: basically PIR for TF with no option for uninsulated frame - I preferred a mix of mineral wool and PIR. I raised a few questions on here about claimed U values - some uncertainty as to whether U values could be achieved in practice given specifications. Liked the idea of a SIPs roof but it required purlins that would have been intrusive with our 1.5 storie design. Flemming - price was too high. Ecosips - helpful and reasonably priced SIPs solution. Put off SIPs as limitted experience of this on Buildhub - perhaps even some misunderstanding. Would have struggled to hit target u values with SIPs alone - would need additional insulation such as PIR. Solo - a very close second in terms of best price and very helpful and responsive. Was very little experience of them on Buildhub that I could find. Went with MBC uninsulated frame as best price and a great reputation on Buildhub. In their quote they offered various costed insulation options for standard 140mm timber frame and a separate option for the passive frame (with Larsen truss frame and Warmcell insulation) - very nice but beyond my budget. Have completed frame design and now in manufacture- positive experience so far.
  9. Thanks @PeterW will take that into account for the final design for BCO. I was originally concerned that I needed to take the most direct route to the road due to shallow drain runs, but after taking some levels yesterday, I now have a bit more fall to play with once outside the house footprint.
  10. Updated design... @PeterW any real value in adding a rodding eye at the topmost stack, this is a 14m run to IC4. The next stack down the page is a similar length run to IC4.
  11. @PeterW stacks annotated with rooms they serve:
  12. Thanks @Dave Jones, agree that is a neater solution (assuming you mean) all 4 stacks in the house going to IC2. The main challenge with that is distance from the uppermost stack to exit the perimeter wall at the bottom of the diagram - the distance is such that the foul pipe would need to penetrate the ring beam. This cross section below shows that I have only the depth of one concrete block of fall, from underside of the B&B floor to the ring beam. P.S. a ground worker that visited site to quote advised bringing the pipes out the front (right on the diagram) as I had them all coming out near IC2 in an earlier design that I shared with him. Not sure what his reasoning was - maybe the congested services in the vicinity of IC2 and the need to encase the foul pipes in concrete because they run parallel with and close to the house and outbuilding foundations.
  13. Here is my draft drainage layout, shortly to send to building control... There are a few considerations: The pipe runs under the house can have limited fall - as they need to go under the beam and block floor and over the ring beam - so basically one course of concrete blocks + mortar = 225mm. At a min fall of 1:80 this limits the distance from stack to point of exit foundations to approx 7m. The ground workers have said we can run services through the ring beam (RC ground beam) but I'm keen to minimise this. The exiting foul drains are relatively shallow - e.g. the exciting IC closest to the road (IC4) has an invert level of just 8080mm below ground level. So need the pipe runs to be relatively direct from new house to IC4 (or connection at the road boundary). All the pipes between new house and outbuildings are existing - and these connect to our static caravans in the back garden (not shown) and site WC as shown in the outbuilding - so these need to remain until new build completion. It will get quite busy with services in the side access between new house and outbuildings - e.g. gas end electric need to be routed from the existing garage into the plant room in the new house, and water supply will need to come to the plant room from the front too. The plant room will be located at the lowest foul stack in the diagram. Trying to minimise the number of ICs in the driveway - which is a U shape (in 2nd pic). Prefer to site in borders or lawn where the can be obscured e.g. with plant pots. Any views welcome.
  14. Just installed a ground anchor. I bought only one as I was not sure they would work with our soil - it is littered with flint and other stones (when digging you are absolutely guaranteed to hit one with every entry of the shovel).On the 5th attempt, the ground anchor found a route through the stones and feels very firm (allegedly can handle 1.2 tons with the 900mm version I bought). I could fell it hitting stones, but I think it pushed them aside. Will now buy 3 more and the ratchet straps to tie the vans down. Will cost £250 in total but a small price to pay for peace of mind.
  15. Affinity water came out the next day to fit a new stop tap, even connected up my temporary MDPE. Very impressed with their service - came to my rescue within 45 mins of breaking the old tap and new tap installed next day - all at no charge. The guys commented they got a bit wet installing it because of our high water pressure. I must measure static pressure/flow rate again as it seems even higher since we now have 20mm MDPE all the way from the road. When we have completed demolition and the new piling and ring beam, I'll dig a trench and run 32mm MDPE from the new Toby.