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About Hilldes

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  1. @Temp that is no bad thing as in our case the single claim presents a cash flow challenge as we will need the VAT reclaim to complete the project and would have to forgo any further reclaim. I wonder if our grass roots VAT inspectors have been informed.
  2. Here is what we have wired for 'day 1'. We have actually wired one Salus auto balancing actuator per manifold as spark though it might affect the Wunda wiring centre without any. All decorators caps are left open on the other UFH circuits. The wiring is complete but waiting for gas to the boiler before we test.
  3. Thanks @Rob99, @Dan F and @TonyT. I see it now does say 17 A for the 1mm2 on the TLC web site and RS and Doncaster concur on the maximum, although only Doncaster cables mentioned this is the in free air figure and the derating for a 10 cable bundle is 0.48 so giving 8A in a cabinet. So my 6A figure is within. A bit naughty perhaps of RS and TLC not to mention derating. In practice, the kitchen diner downlights is one of the larger current circuits with 15x 8W 230v LED downlights and will only draw 0.5A. Although there are some 5A round pin lamp sockets that may ultimately draw more depending on what is connected to them. The writing on the TLC cable though did not mention current unless it was hidden in a code, likewise the cable reel did not...
  4. Thanks @Dan F, what reference source of information are you using to determine maximum current for tri-rated tables? Thanks @TonyT I've bought tri-rated cables and looking for a source of reference on what the max current should be for specific cable CSAs.
  5. The next question on this journey is back to the panel wire...and what is the maximum current that should be designed to flow. I know there are many variables here, such as whether cable is separated or grouped, ambient temperature etc. From googling this I see a range of max current values for the two types of stranded panel wire I have, but to be safe I'm going to assume this: 0.5mm2 Max 3A 1mm2 Max 6A Is that about right?
  6. Thanks @Dan F I did look at the terminal blocks that had the earth terminal connected to the DIN rail, but they all seemed to have features such as a test function which I was not convinced connected the L or N terminals permanently. Yes I think all the Loxone extensions will fit easily on the two middle DIN rails, leaving the bottom rail for 24V PSUs and 230v RCBOs.
  7. Ok so now I'm goggling "strain relief (shielded) cable clamps" as well as 100 blocks 😂 Yes I generally ran one CAT6 cable per device (e.g. retractive switch, PIR sensor). Having seen the plaster board being fitted I became convinced I was going to get screws through cables so wanted to minimise the impact of that. Not that expensive for the cable in the scheme of things but more effort to run the cables. The only exception is bedrooms that have a light switch at the door then a light switch either side of the bed - in this case I ran a single CAT6 cable to the room and then on to the other two back boxes and will wire them in parallel. Like the idea though of one/two CAT6 drops per room.
  8. Ahhhh now I see what you mean. I've got the Wago double height. Thanks @TonyT
  9. Yes, use double/triple deck terminal blocks. I use the Wago 2002 range which are the push in type (screw terminals are a pita) and are 5.2mm wide. You can mount the DIN rail to the back of the cabinet if you need to create more depth for the terminal blocks. You can get around 100 of the Wago terminal blocks on a single LXN DIN rail. Ah yes, just opened my package of Wago 2002-2201 and they are only about 5 to 6mm wide. Why 4-core? For RGBW you need 5 surely. Again, use the same double or triple height terminals, in blocks of 5 to connect all cores on a single level. For example you only need 10 triple height terminals to connect all 6 RGBW. Yep just after I wrote that I realised I should have said 5 core but the edit window had closed. So "double height" is like the Wago 2002-2201 and "tripple height" is a 3 pair of terminals? Wow, thats a lot of cat6! Do you need all 224 cores to connect into your cabinet, or just some of them? I would terminate cat6 outside the cabinet on a patch panel or a 110 block and then only bring into the cabinet the cores you actually need. Many of the pairs are not used. There are 14 Digital Inputs (just the orange/orange&white pair of CAT6) and 14 Loxone Tree (so two pairs from the CAT6 cable). Now I'm Googling "110 blocks" 😁. I remember @jack describing lessons on this one, must look that up.
  10. Thanks @TonyT, will take a look at this, but the cabinet is quite shallow.
  11. Many thanks for the replies @joth, @Dan F, @Rob99. Next step for me is to think about how I'm going to fit everything in the (LXN4) cabinet. Here are the totals for incoming cables: 48 x 1mm2 T&E 6 x RGBW 1.5mm2 4 core Flex 28 x CAT6 Assuming the T&E terminal blocks occupy 10mm of DIN rail each, that is 480mm of DIN rail for these alone.
  12. Sorry, next question on terminal blocks. The Loxone blog suggests using these Push in Fused Terminals for 24V circuits. Can't find it now but I think there was mention of using the fuse to protect LED strips - one for each RGBW? Anyone used these @Dan F, @Rob99 @joth? PS thanks for the response to the question on your cabinet @Dan F - that makes sense.
  13. Looking good @Dan F. So for an incoming T&E at the top of the cabinet, you will connect L and N to the weidmuller terminal blocks, then run the earth down to the busbar at the bottom of the cabinet? What Loxone extensions have you got there (can't see the writing) is that three relay extensions and three dimmer extensions? What is that terminal block in the bottom right with the brown wires - is it a Live common block?
  14. Thanks @Rob99 - I will have a look for tapped holes at the top of my LXN4 cabinet.