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Hilldes's Achievements

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  1. Thanks @JOE187 will consider that as an option. The other option I'm tentatively considering involves core drilling smaller holes - about 50mm and align them horizontally where the standard telescope vent would penetrate the wall. Then cutting the off the section of telescope vent that would have penetrated the wall and fixing the telescope vent to the wall and sealing it against the core drilled holes. I would add more telescope vents if needed to meet the mm2 of venting required as each vent would pass less air than with the standard rectangular section penetrating the wall.
  2. Here’s my thread from a few months back. It depends I think on what type of suspended floor - mine was a ground floor, beam and block.
  3. £493. Very reasonable I think given there were two men and two vans on site for around 5 hours until well after dark.
  4. Got the "LETTER OF CLAIM" from UK Power networks today for damage to their equipment "...caused by you or your agent's negligence.". Guess how much £?
  5. Thanks @Rob99 The instructions that came with the lower blocks don't mention the upper blocks and the upper blocks don't come with any instructions. I'll order the enclosure now I know what size the 100 blocks are and then progress the CAT6 wiring.
  6. So now I have the 110 blocks... @Rob99 would really appreciate your guidance on how to use them.... As in the pic, there is the main frame which has what appear to be plastic 'gaps' that you could insert an IDC tool into. And there are the small separate blocks shown loose in the pic which have metal slots in. Can I just check please to use the main frame with no metal parts I would need to strip two wires and insert both into the plastic gaps to connect them? - sounds a bit hit and miss. How do I use the loose items with metal - they look more like conventional IDC connectors so can just use an IDC tool to insert the un-stripped CAT6 conductors, but how do they mount on the frame? Also any good practices to share on how how to secure the CAT6 cables as they enter the enclosure would be appreciated. P.S. got all the kit installed in the Loxone cabinet and wired a few lighting circuits and have the heating controls done in Loxone also. Very impressed with the simplicity of Loxone Config and the mobile app so far. Will post a few pics when I'm a bit further through.
  7. I was looking at Ubiquity from the start of this thread in 2018. I found it was hard to locate the best product for me from the manufacturers web site and when looking on retail sites all the reviews seem a few years old which made me wonder if I’d be buying old stock. After reading reviews on line I bought two TP-Link EAP225 V3. The V3 is the latest version I believe. Haven’t used them in the new house yet, but been running one from the BT home hub in the new house plant room via CAT6 to the caravans and coverage seems very good across the two caravans. Very easy to setup too - don’t even need to enter the Wi-Fi password of the router when you connect to the router via CAT6.
  8. Many thanks @Rob99 and @joth just what I was looking for. Will order and have a play over the holiday period.
  9. Lower cost block at TLC, and can have 5 blocks in this enclosure. Ideally though would like some way to have more blocks in a larger enclosure where I can also add cable constraints.
  10. Looking to make a purchase of "110" IDC terminal blocks to go in a separate enclosure to manage the incoming CAT6 cables and bring only the needed twisted pairs in to the Loxone cabinet. For the "110" blocks this is all I can find, it looks like the IDC connectors can handle CAT6 (i.e. 23 AWG). Not sure though how to mount these blocks from RS in a enclosure... @joth I know you mentioned 110 blocks, do you have any experience of implementing them?
  11. I used these - quite happy with the quality and price: CAT6 https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CACAT6LSF.html https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CACAT6.html Sat: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CAPF100B.html
  12. Thanks @JohnMo I did goole a humidity meter and bought one that I don't trust (measures humidity in the air). What type of device to I need to measure at the floor surface?
  13. yes, to be honest to is almost dry and if we fired up UFH it would be applied very gently. It's more a question on the heat source.
  14. Hi all, We've had a self levelling compound poured on our concrete slab (technically a Webber thin coat screed). Average depth is 5mm. It was poured over 3 weeks ago and patches are still not fully dry and humidity levels in the house are over 85%. We need to get engineered wood flooring fitted ASAP (glue down to screed). The plan was to fire up the UFH to dry the thin coat screed, but it has been a real challenge to get the plumber to connect up gas and commission the boiler - and today he tested positive for COVID. Any ideas please on how we can dry the thin coat screed? MVHR - I tried running this for a few days, but because it is not 100% efficient, over hours and days it just dropped the temperature inside close to that outside - probably too cold to dry the screed. Industrial heater hire - while this will warn the air, will it dry the screed? An alternative heat source for the UFH pipes?
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