Leaderboard

Love my impact driver but having read the above about the new quiet models I look forward to it’s death....... hang on it’s a makita and will probably out last me......... booo hooo said piggy.

It's the same one as mine.

I'd be tempted to always have a piece of coal in a pocket and simply take it out, show him, and carry on with your business.

Build Hub does not condone or encourage deviant behaviour. Motor Sniffing may harm your health, especially if you are pregnant old, infirm, or a self builder.

Try smelling the motor after the first couple of hundred and come back to me

I bought the Makita oil filled gearbox version of the new brushless impact and its absolutely fantastic! Not cheap at £150+ VAT naked, ( CNS power tools online is one of the cheapest ), but after stealing mine for an afternoon one of the plaster boarding gang went and bought one straight away. Chalk and cheese mate. I wouldn't dream of using my combi for punching screws in all day unless they were small and I needed torque control. The oil filled Makita is a dream, and I've got tinnitus from years of clubbing and DJ'ing and with my standard impact I have to put ear plugs in. No need with the 'quiet' one. I suggest you try one and I think you'll change your mind. Variable speed is really effective, and makes setting single / loose plasterboard screws ( without smashing though the board ) a doddle. I'm set for life, and would never go back to a normal impact TBH. The chippy on the current site has a DeWalt impact and it's like my teeth are being rattled out of my head at 50 paces. 110%. This new one puts 150mm screws in for fun with nearly no user effort. As with all tools, the correct, quality bit in the drill is paramount, otherwise you struggle. Don't skimp on spending on good impact rated bits ( standard ones just keep shattering the ends off ).

Impacts are less fatiguing to use at higher torque levels than a drill, you're not having to fight the torque reaction the whole time.

I replaced my broken Bosch impact driver for the new one and could not believe the difference. The new one is so much more powerful and you can adjust the power level. I had to drive 100mm stainless steel screws in to batten the exterior prior to render board and it made it a lot easier than using my Bosch drill/driver IMO. ( I just time the noise out) P.S just don't use it when popmaster is on!

It's 15 years old. No joints, one continuous coil of 50mm mdpe. It was me that installed it when I built the last house. I thought the rule on a yacht was "He who blocks it - Unblocks it."

If you move to glorious Scotia all will be well...no meters for domestic property here. If you have a hairdressers in Possilpark though you will have a friendly plumber who will fit the meter bypass tube for 9 months of the year in exchange for the wife getting a free Brazilian for his birthday ? Note to editors Possilpark is a lovely district to the north of Glasgow famous for a ancient meteor strike which created Possil Loch, a haven for wildlife and visited by Charles Darwin in his tours before he wrote that book. Also known as an area of multiple deprivation. A Brazilian is of course a native of the South American country who may or may not be fluent in Portuguese but also used colloquially to refer to the shape of *cut* a lady may employ in the *lets get it off cos it’s his birthday * area below the waist. Further note. in Possil (short for Possilpark) the beauticians have a cartoon drawing...unfolded on A4 paper and displayed privately to ensure the customer and the therapist are on the same page pre waxing. This is due to previous violent repercussions after misunderstandings between a Californian and a Brazilian... not the look one requests resulting in much dissatisfaction ??? Sorry boss, serious question but it is Friday ?

Can you take a meter reading first thing in the morning, turn everything off in the house and take another reading much later that day? As long as you know everything is off, you should be fine.

You would only be limiting yourself without it. Tbh the only times you'll really use it is cutting cripples (Jack rafters) but I doubt it will be that much more to get one in the grand scheme of things

Probably have room to install a meter after the stopcock so may have to try that. Circa £25 for a meter is small beer compared to the £436 they've just been billed for the last 6 months!

All of the main names do an 8 inch blade. Set up correctly means you can easily cut a 12 inch piece of wood. Double bevel? Ask Ed ( @Construction Channel )

Best bet is to use the data in building regs, specifically the rainfall region and run-off data in Part H3 Section 1

Its quite normal. In situations like this I sometimes ask; "Well, since you know your internal systems, and the facts of this case - if you had this problem, what would you do now?"

are you at war with them? if not speak nicely and suggest a nice talk over a bottle of something for sure it will cost you if legal letters start flying + there will be some sort of war then if not now remember the first thing they teach solicitors is --send a letter -you can charge for that they all play that game and never include everything in one lettter ,so they can write another one .LOL 10 letters +£500 later -you still might not have a solution talk it out with the neighbours first if they will easy to go to war hard to stop it

Yes best to wait But when you fill them You will need to make them bigger Press a screwdriver or blunt paint scraper to make a V All the way along the crack and will stop them re. cracking

Thanks to everyone who gave me input. I phoned up SSEN today to initiate discussions. Not much engagement, but I suspect I was speaking to a call handler that deals with a range of topics. So based on his advice I have now submitted the form which will kick off the quote process. I did raise the fact that I would be looking to negotiate on the cost due to the lack of any wayleave for the pole and cable but I think it went over his head a bit, he just said that nobody would even speak to me until I had started the quote process. I'll update as soon as I make some progress in case my experience is useful for others in the future. Randomiser.

I am not entirely convinced of this claim.

Yes though distinguished from a regular drill (with screw torque setting) because it has the rotational impact feature which translates into a noisy clatter. This gets to the root of my question. There is a technology shift happening which is most appealing to the 8 hour per day tradesman. Makita has a hydraulic impact driver in its range. https://www.protoolreviews.com/tools/power/cordless/drills-drivers-cordless/makita-oil-impulse-impact-driver-review/20714/ This review indicates an oil impulse driver cannot tackle the broad range of jobs that a classic impact driver can but an oil impulse model is better for fine control of smaller screws. For my build the main applications of a driver will be fixing first floor sheets and plasterboard.

THanks @JSHarris. Is it another one of those products which one could use if going with a belt 'n' Braces approach, much like using rebar even though it might not be needed? I started thinking of the stuff in the link below in terms of repelling water. Is there a house based application for this?

The canal outside our house is drained periodically. My God does it leak during the refill phase, and then, magically (as it were) re-seals itself.

Hi Russell Sorry for the delay, only just seen your post. For my Tata roof they supplied, 3 tools. Eaves closer, Stubai pliers and Flange mate. I also bought left and right off set tin snips. Best bit was Makita 136mm 30 tooth metal blade for circular saw, I cut all the panels with this.

Easy @scottishjohn. No need to get personal. Granted its not mentioned in the Logix Install Guide, however it was raised during the training day and it is a standard detail on joints that need to be watertight. I could leave it out and be fine. I could spend an extra £100 and have another level of protection. If fitted correctly of course!

How much experience do you have with casting concrete walls, though? Have you built enough over the years to be able to state definitively that water bars (something you knew nothing at all about until this morning) are not a useful way of allowing a non-monolithic pour to be watertight?

It was one of the factors, yes. Thwere are of course different products but when I looked I looked it to it I was of the view it was unlikely to be effective. In addition however the backfill will be rock and there is almost no possibility of the water levels building up, so runnjng some drainage pipe as well as a rock backfill will mean no water pressure. We will soon be doinf the backfill as part of finishing the driveway, will be tanking with Bostick Aqueprufe which, according to its own data sheet, will adhere to XPS. We will tank the outer icf with that and put in cheap fibre board to protect from puncture.

Hi will if it is only one section at 0.7 m high that is retaining, why not build that bit up and pour it straight away extending slightly into the non retaining part, add starter bars and continue with the rest at a later date work out concrete amount and try to stick to say 5m so just a small truck load get a line pump in stead of a boom as you won’t need it to just go up a metre.

@Ed Davies In your earlier post, were you referring to firing electricity directly into the SA immersion, eg bypassing the SA Qontroller ( that's not a typo btw )? That is not possible, and would void the warranty. The immersion heater is directly in contact with the PCM, so as the immersion offers very concentrated heat and the PCM gets heated from 'frozen', there is a cold-start protocol embedded in the Qontroller which pulses heat into the immersion until ( I believe ) the lowest thermistor registers heat. At that point the immersion relay is allowed to go to the 'constant on' state and fire all available power into the immersion until the unit is fully saturated aka the PCM is fully molten. The reason for this cold-start feature is that the PCM would get overheated locally by the immersion if driven directly, whilst the PCM is frozen, and it would then suffer terminal damage as the PCM is intolerant of very high temps. The cold-start is only ever activated when the unit is nearly 'empty' or has been fully depleted, so not an issue when the unit is part used and then topped up ( yes, I know ). I have commissioned a number of these to date, and a good few have needed the over-heat stat ( that @Barney12 reports is still annoying him ) resetting a couple of times from the get-go. Touch wood, none have since tripped as I would soon get to know about it! I'm reasonably sure the one causing the nuisance is a quick fix, and its a shame that SA haven't been in touch to arrange a service callout / repair accordingly.

Just sold mine as I couldn’t stand the noise, I cannot see the point in them to be honest, I’m just about to put in 2100 100mm screws into laminated timber and I know I won’t have any problems with my standard drill/driver.

Only thing keeping me going is the couple of perfect runs. Having a night or two, (three?) off as feeling oddly "rough" or otherwise out of sorts. Silicone poisoning??? Beer? 4 nights sober!

At the building regs kitchen extract rate of 13l/s, it would take around 3.78 hours to get one air change, which is too low. I'd work on aiming to get around 1 air change every 2 to 2.5 hours; we run at around 1 air change every 2.4 hours and that seems to be OK. For a room with a volume of 177,000 litres that means an air change rate of about 20.4l/s. This is too much flow for a single extract terminal I think, especially as it needs to be quiet, so it looks as if you will need two extracts and probably two fresh air terminals at the opposite side of the room, in order to get the required performance at a low noise level (each terminal would normally be operating at around 10l/s). Doubling up semi-rigid duct runs to each terminal would probably be a good idea, the standard HB+ type 75mm duct terminal connections accept two ducts anyway, one of the duct connections is just plugged if only a single duct is used.

I’ve done a spreadsheet that shows you how the different duct sizes affect flow, and takes your MVHR and does a very crude balancing and validation of BRegs values. I’ll post it up

Room size is the factor not total area. If you've got big rooms you may need to double the 75mm, 2 ducts to a single valve adapter. If you've got really big rooms then the larger duct may be necessary.

Can't be that difficult as I did all mine . I've got layout drawings you could use as a basis for yours if you want. I found the building regs. extraction rates too high and after the house was signed off I reduced them to PH levels. Again I've got my tables of PH ventilation rates if they would be of any use to you.

CO (carbon monoxide) and CO₂ (carbon dioxide) get you in very different ways. Carbon monoxide's problem is that it takes up the place in your haemoglobin which you'd much prefer to be taken by oxygen resulting in your tissues not getting that oxygen. We (most (all?) mammals (animals?)) have not evolved to detect that condition, or other causes of hypoxia, as it so rarely happens in nature that there's been no selection pressure for it. You have to go out of your way to look for particular symptoms to detect it, e.g., the reduction of colour vision that tipped off @JSHarris. You're not likely to notice those if you're asleep. Increased carbon dioxide, on the other hand, mostly gets you by preventing you getting rid of waste CO₂ generated in your body so that it builds up in your blood steam. This is the quicker effect of not breathing so it's what we've evolved to detect. The “lungs bursting” feeling you get if you hold your breath too long comes from excess CO₂. CO₂ also bonds to haemoglobin a bit at a different site from that used to carry oxygen but which does have the effect of reducing its oxygen carrying capability but, AIUI, that's a more minor effect.

Why hasn't he finished the wedding video, the insulating video, studwork, vcl, plasterboarding, the redesigning, the kitchen design, the sewer pump, the rest of the stairs. Etc...... Because he's a lazy bastard. That's why ?

Buy it. It's a doddle trust me. Don't ask me how it works. Somehow it magically removes the excess too. I need to heed @scottishjohn's advice though of less is more. I had to keep stopping and wiping the excess off of my tool so it pays to have plenty of bog roll handy and an open bin bag.

Buy the titan one and use it. If you like it great if not bring it back and say it is making a weird noise from the motor and get your money back and buy the next one up in the catalogue. Repeat until you find one you like.