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scottishjohn

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scottishjohn last won the day on March 3

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  • Birthday 09/11/1951

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  1. Iwould ring everbuild tech to see if it is happy going onto damp OSB
  2. you can buy ready made grp flashings/ edging of all shapes to do what you are suggesting
  3. there are plenty of adhesives that work on steel like sixaflex --that sticks your car windscreen in all you will need is an adhesion promoter primer I used to replace part body panels on cars with it - so idid not have to distrub the weldsand sealing of them the lotus alluminimum chassis are stuck together with it If you can,t find it ring your local windscreen company and ask them --maybe they will give you some ? or speak to SIKA tech dept --they will sort you out
  4. yes side extension - no mention of how many floors etc -- just wanted 1m to boundary which if you think about it is sensible for repairs and alos inmtial building ,you need over 1m to get scaffolding in
  5. not so sure my experience of concrete raft houses on old brickworks ,as we had alot of them in manchester ,was that the clay dried out under the slab over time ,contracted and then left voids , this is why on clay ground they want very deep foundations how deep are founds for house --have you dug down deep enough to find where they stop?
  6. and did you have wall bracing system in place?
  7. I know when I looked ta an extension to current house anything less than 1m was problem for planning
  8. vented at fireplace and capped or open chimneys? if no vent in fireplace then your chimney will be another source of damp --rain going down them
  9. what do you see from inside --a flat roof or can you see the shape -- is that wood work venting the space?
  10. heating is a seperate problem and if rooms are large enough then easiest way is to build new studs walls inside outer walls with vpaour barrier and insulation in it can you afford to loose 140m- 150mm on inside of all outside walls , would still be very good if you only went for 100mminsulation ,then strapit to leave service void before plaster board ,that way there would be little or no penetrations in the vapour/air tightness barrier you then have same spec as a new build !! ,and somehting you can do in bits with not that much upheaval ,good time to rewire if its on the cards certainly iwould not otuch original plaster etc --just build inside them aslo the itme to retro fit UFH while skirting boards are off -ready for you ASHP at some point retro fit UFH can be done in under 50mm thickness just suggestions to bring your house into 21 century in a an easy doable way for the diy man while still living there again it is the only sensible way to insulate that sort of house ,
  11. my thoughts are that adding mechanical ventilation is not really getting to the bottom of problem when house was built it must have had enough draft through the roof space or it would have rotted away 60 years ago a cols roof must have a good flow or air thorugh it and very well insulated from the living space with no leaks of hot humid air from that into the cold roof area It really is as simple as that you say walls are solid --no gaps ,so there must have been good ventilation from eves when it was built so simple answer maybe to fit a row of slate vetns close to bottom of roof and a higher row near top --unless you absolutl;y sure your ridges are also venting
  12. got to be worth a shot --on energy savings grounds at least not as though you trying to lift roof up more than 150mm? at worst ,probaly less
  13. is this a picture of your roof ? cos it looks like you got 2 seperate ones with a valley bewteen them and a dormer as well ? all these parts need good ventilation
  14. when doing the vallies I questioned my roofer why? he was cutting the lead into 1,5m lengths -- apart from being easier to do a good job the main reason was it allows for expansion in the summer ,just overlapeed by 150mm each section other thing i noticed was there was no double row at bottom at gutter,which you normally would have to do , they used a thin grp flat sheet which went up past first real over lap --very neat and makes a good edge at bottom
  15. you do not state if walls are cavity type =2bricks with a gap bewtween presbt spec suggests at least 25mm -- some like 50 mm also the side with the non breathable plastic sheet --is that on top of OSB or sarking --or is it jusst a sheet and tile battons --as they used to use in english type houses? If you look at modern brickwork they now use vertical plastic vents in between the bricks every couple of metre or so right up the walls and top of walls have a fire stop --so air flow will in ina bottom vents and out at top that is to make a draft between the 2 brick walls and the top of the walls should not be covered,as that will stop airflow --eg your loft flooring going over the gap in the walls certainly a vented dry ridge system is good but still needs vents at eves to make an airflow out of the top,as warm air rises.or lots of slate vents on both sides of roof other wise the air will not move very quickly and maybe become stagnant a " cold roof" is meant to have an airflow to stop condensation and humidity building up all your insulation should be on outside of living area and well sealed as any leakageoof warm air will cost you in heating and make condensation worse there should have been a vapour barrier behind any plaster board that is ajoing any ouside walls or roof space. replacing your plaster section on one side with foam backed plasterboard after a vapour barrier should address all your problems without taking up too much space if there is no insulation behind the plaster board then heat will escape and possibly cause condensation on the vapour barrier at inside -so hence it should be vapour barrier ,insulation then plaster board --which is why i suggest using foam bacled plaster board to do both jobs are your tilles /slates fitted to counter battons or just one row of battons one row does not give an air gap between tiles and breathable membrane -- and dirt will gather up on cross battons and over time can cause problems,usally at 3 corners of roof will be first place to cause rot of trusses -double battons first row is vertical ,so no water or crap gathers on them scottish roofs due to extra wind up here use either osb sheeting or sarking boards then breathable membrane and slates are then nailed dicrtly to the boards ,over ime the sarking boards shrink as they dry out and you end up with little gaps whicgh allow some ventilation through the breathable membrane this is still a cold roof so needs ventilation at eves into roof space and out the top ideallyand totally sealed and insulated from living space have search for diagrams on cold roofs and warm roofs
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