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scottishjohn last won the day on May 31 2020

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About scottishjohn

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  • Birthday 11/09/1951

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  1. no other vehicle of the size can LEGALLY tow as much weight as a landrover --no other vehicle of its size can tow a 3ton digger +trailer OR A HORSE BOX AND 2 BIG HORSES --thats why people like them as they out dated junk ,that should have had the basic problems sorted 30years ago--YES why no galvanised chassis from new? , when by 1960,s they knew they were just buckets - lots of other well known problems i could recount --but no need if you have one you will know about them
  2. I suspect they want to keep it on the same footprint as original one ,as now you are replacing the whole house ,you could maybe do it in two parts --eg original foot print then apply for and extension on that when the build is in progress . seen a others do that maybe time for a planning consultant ?
  3. you fit batons --then clad them with thick OSB ,then add breathable membrane ,then nail on the slates, needs to be thick OSB to give nails something to fix to - If using sarking boards --they must be treated and leave small gaps between them -to allow for movement of wood as it will grow when damp
  4. I would have thought 25mm vertical batons to fix sarking boards or (osb sheeting) to - and another vapour barrier between slates and sarking ?- should be fine ,providing it can vent out of the ridge and bug screen at gutter level
  5. If std sort of site and build --then £1800-£2500 per sq m if you paying someone to build it for you --
  6. after all that work --my guess would be flashings or around any penetrations ,sky lights etc and it is running along roof timbers on inside to where it shows inside It may be cheaper to drop the ceiling down -dry it out --then wait till it leaks again and track it ? you could at least test with a hose on roof and see exactly where its coming in -providing you hose one area of it at a time and start from lowest point of roof and work back to highest can,t see it being the main area of grp if it has been recoated --got to be at and edge of it somewhere . start by playing a hose on the skylight to roof joint nearest where it comes in would be my first port of call,
  7. know the problems well do you have enough ceiling height to attend to floor by adding another insulated one ---what is current floor? the ideal way if it is would be to dig out floor and pour a new one with lots of insulation under it and around it where it touchs granite most old granite houses have no foundations as such -so also have no damp course -so walls suck up moisture from the ground is it old with lathe and plaster on very thick walls and the gap behind the lathes allows it to breath up the walls to the roof If this is the way your going to go then think about UFH at same time maybe? are the rooms large enough to make timber frame studding inside what is there now ?--eg 140mm studding filled with insulation with a gap behind it so any damp coming through the wall and vent out at eaves- or into roof void --if std scotish type roof it will be sarking boards and slates --so an early inspection of the inside to check for any rot is advised -this will need to be kept as a cold area and last insulation will be lots of it on top of ceiling so you do not heat the roof space and cause condensation I am suspecting it is lime mortar walls which need to breathe basically the right way is to make and insulated box inside present shell so walls and roof can breath to the outside there is no insulation value in granite walls worth talking about --so this is why you would build a TF house inside what you have if funds and room size allow pictures would be nice I understand if these things are not possible but it is what you should be aiming for
  8. your strips you intend to fit to get a run on the roof should be placed UNDER the edge of the roof beams on one side like a wall head plate -that way it will be a simple slope from one side to other .
  9. if you think truss is too narrow to have sheet joins on them --then add some width too those trusses by nailing a strip the side of them?
  10. just worked it out at 105bricks -with wasteage per sq M and if high priced facing at £1.23 per brick =£129.15 for bricks +the mortar makes using my on site stone look cheap cost to get it cropped to 100mm wide =£40 sq m- cheaper probably if I buy a cropper -then resell after the job something else to think about
  11. I think when I know what I,m doing I will be looking for a good stone mason that can work with big lumps of granite --and just repair the walls and not replace them -could be cheaper and simpler than other solutions the way things are or go back to the first thought of ICF and crop the stone to clad it
  12. the treating of batons these days is a joke anyway --not treated all the way through anyway --so just apply a couple of coats to cut edges if your making your own
  13. my architect was telling me that his favorite facing brick used to be made by 2 companies in the home counties as most of his work is down there --one has ceased trading and the other now charges £1.23 per brick!!!-£30k a truck load and jewsons here in newton stewart are limiting cement to 5 bags per customer
  14. I do not see how that would effect the insulation in any way it is either stopping heat flow from inside to outside or vice versa or its not I have a large cold store next to my garage approx 30msquare by 20m high and on a _1c day i went out with my thermal temp gun outside of store on walls was same as ambient (-1c) but because they skimped when building it --no insulation under the concrete floor -i watched them building it --I could measure -9c where I could get at the concrete foundations --an example of how things get skimped on in commercial buildings . the walls were not allowing nay of the -30-40c to get to outside and they used 10" thick PIR panels to slot the thing together inside an exposed steel frame work a digger damaged a panel; when tidying up outside after it was built -all they did was cut out the damaged bit and stick in a new bit cur from a spare panel --hadn,t gone all the way through ,just a big gouge in outside
  15. I always find it interesting how PIR gets rubbished all the time If it is that bad explain to me why when you build a cold store you use PIR --not rock wool????-so temp stays stable and does not change that surely proves that it is the best insulation --as frozen food people will not want to spend money on cooling more than they have to I maintain that it is air leaks in bad fitting of PIR that is probably worst fault ,and as we now fit air tight vapour barriers to inside of house even that problem will be very small the caravan problem -of pir bonded to roof sheets is simply that -direct heating of tin and direct contact of pir - and probably lack of a decent h/vac system inmost cheapo industrial units --so heat rises and sits there --you already have told us the solution --not rocket science hot air rises and gathers if no draft or holes to allow it to escape the first big commercial units built in the 70-80,s had rock wool between the inner and outer skin , cos it was cheaper , and I can tell you from experience they were much worse than bonded type modern roof sheeting I believe the foil coating on std PIR is to reflect the heat and that why purpose roofing PIR does not have it --cos it will be in direct contact with roofing felt - no air gap as in normal slate roof or air gap as it TF frame housing to outer skin with MVHR any perceived advantages of rock wool will be negated as thats what it does -- for my part as I live in rural scotland --I just open a window --more gadgets means more problems and expense later on and we don,t have the polluted air you city dwellers do .