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scottishjohn last won the day on May 31 2020

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About scottishjohn

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  • Birthday 11/09/1951

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    south west scotland

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  1. maybe ask them for an approved contractor and get price from them?
  2. sorry what you are being told by @ToughButterCup is correct I think separate building- my guess you will need change of use and will have to comply to everything . go ask the questions from planning maybe pay a few quid and get preplanning conversation with them
  3. sips floors used often in russia where permo frost is prevalent -- house is built on plies and then all sips construction floors walls and roof you will find plenty of examples on u-tube of DIY houses constructed this way using both OSB panels and MGO ones
  4. possibly a bit harsh --but would you think a flat with badly specified UFH should command a better price than a STD system that works -- we all seen the slagging ASHP get when badly specfied or fitted in an old house with many basic problems but it was statement that UFH will make it command a higher price - even though he has been told it won,t work I know what my view would be if I bought it and was expecting a good performing system and economical running costs and not something a buyer could check on at all at time of purchase ,only when the gas bills came in would he find the truth of how bad a system I know in England now some house sales have a clause that if things like heating,cooker etc fail or do not work correctly --then there can be a claim back to sort the problem under the terms of the sale agreement -- for a period after sale
  5. no one here is telling you UFH is a good solution and all are telling you it will not work well if you cannot get more insulation under it - but as you seem to know it all I cannot understand why you bother to ask our gurus ? If you can afford 40mm of height -then use part of that to insulate the concrete floor -then add floor covering and fit std rads with plumbing hidden in skirting boards and as you say the floor above is concrete - then to do the right job that should also be using thick insulated PB on the ceiling or you will be heating both the flat above and the one below I would consider your idea to fit that UFH to extract a better price is almost fraudulent as it will not give any of the advantages that UFH does when fitted correctly and will cost more to run that std rads so don,t be telling us you care about the buyer -- you don,t -- its all about the profit to you
  6. will be a failure with NO insulation below -do not fit with on insulation layer ones with no insulation assuming you are using an insulation layer then fitting panels OR you have a full concrete floor with insulation uderneath the slab and then creed on top of your panels and pipes
  7. sleeper wall sounds quicker and simpler imagine making all those holes then finding out they not quite right spacing and then if holes big enough having to cement them all in 30 mins a hole ? x 45 =22.5 hrs !!!-- could be more like an hour each one pretty sure you will build a sleeper wall quicker or attach blocks with rawl bolts to exsisting wall to support each one --would give much more tolerance to jiggle sideways to make them a tight fit on in fill bocks maybe there are purpose made brackets for doing this?
  8. Izodom -- was that from Econekt- the uk agent or direct from a supplier in poland?
  9. the wood will still breathe cos you only do it between the rafters and not on tops of batons
  10. may not be cheapest way -- but If i were wanting to insulate that tiled roof and make it vapour proof I would buy a froth pak - kit and just spray i with closed cell foam --not only will it insulate and make a water proof seal - it will stick and loose tiles in place for ever
  11. and you will still be alive not fallen off the ladder and head like split melon when you hit the floor
  12. If you are going to put up with going up and down ladder with every bit of insulation and trying to string a vpc on your own --then i don,t see building the tower on your own is a big thing the time taken to do this will cut the job time by 50% or more
  13. to work off -- NO not me -other than changing a light bulb
  14. I,m sure there are places if there is no permofrost when nice soggy ground will work well with slinky as heat transfer is 50%better through wet ground than dry . and a holiday home will not be used 24/7 all year round ,so I can see the extra cost of a borehole could be prohibitive but that does not mean that would not be the best solution long term if you have months of -20c temps
  15. I am totally sure that GSHP is a better solution for colder climates but not that convinced on "slinky" type set up for cold climes bore hole yes the extra work to bury slinky deep enough to work in very cold climate with long winter -- could outweigh cost of bore hole I will leave @SteamyTea to explain why you are wrong about parasitic power losses etc --like power to run the compressor etc-