scottishjohn

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scottishjohn last won the day on February 21

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About scottishjohn

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  • Birthday 11/09/1951

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    south west scotland

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  1. correct -- i found the same with my solar thermal and in the end plumped for angle same as laltitude - which increased winter output- a man in denmark has his hanginvertically to get most inwinter --this is solarthermal --so you get plenty in summer anyway+ it then cuts it back slightly which helps with overheating of water ,but winter when yuo need it thee suns angleis very low
  2. yes fill in an application fo0rm and get a written quote . bob: you been messing around with this for months now just get some forms and make real applications and get real quotes no point in doing anything and that includes you keep asking same questions on here until you have them and you know your services costs no one can give you any real answers on here -just guesses
  3. its still a type of grp resin system --so everything needs to be dry- it says so in the tech data +application section-- they even tell you do a test with a meter of some sort -to make sure its dry - -don,t see any advantage over simple grp roofing resin + cloth ## how quick the std grp roofing resin goes off is up to you -by amount of catalyist you add .
  4. when I wasn,t really looking for such a thing i came across one ,which looked like an american fridge ,it had reverse osmosis and Uv and filters+ booster pump ,etc etc with computer control alarms etc now i might need one can I find it again --of course not any clues anybody i know it can all be done with separate units ,but i liked the idea of it all being in one unit, so i could fit it in the services room and also an accumulator+ pump + 270 litre capacity of treated water as well
  5. i got a quote couple of months ago for a new supply 80kva 3 phase from an 11kv 3phase pole with me digging trench 130m --the quote was 23k!! so thats you first job get a REAL quote from DNO usual cost in scotland i have been told is 10k per pole and at 400m the size of cable you will need for underground will be huge, quick rough calc says you need 185sqmm conductors --so that will be £90 per metre for cable --call it 4k for cable get a quote --hope i,m totally wrong ,so get a REAL quote anything under 40 k --suck it up -it will be better in the long run
  6. maybe look at stopping the damp in the walls to start with sort the problem at its base -- not try to get rid of damp once its got in MVHR will not be your solution I feel "drain the swamp once--don,t fight the alligators for ever"
  7. did they fit a vapour barrier before fitting EWI I would get a moisture test meter to start with and make sure its not coming from walls ,pretty sure its a combination of a very cold if not damp wall and lack of ventilation as suggested redoing the inside of exterior walls with 50mm- 75mm insulated plasterboard will make a huger difference and easy to fit with dot+dab ( stick it to exsisting wall with occasional screws
  8. bad preparation-- not cleaned enough and loose surface not removed before application of tanking --very standard tactic for water proofing cellars --so it does work if done correctly. closed cell foam ,not open cell,will do the same job --but not something that is DIY-- and it would ALL the the walls not just at bottom --not only does it waterproof ,but it insulates very well you will have seen how well builders foam sticks to everything like shit to a blanket
  9. possibly if the concrete is thick enough accept 6"- deep cuts without breaking up --might just be a pinted on concrete yard -- like 3-4" maybe all houses not the same level ?
  10. a bigger one .LOL fit an above ground rainwater diverting plumbing to a rainwater tank for garden --then to a soakaway
  11. so you have a solid wall -- not 2 walls with a void between them ? is it hard plastered onto that wall? I am guessing you fitted mvhr because you had a damp problem before can you see the damp course from outside of house? how far above the ground are the air bricks -damp course sdhould be below them and visible --not banked up with soil or anything
  12. is the attraction the price for the kit? I looked at some recently for a project and by the time you add on all internlas ,electrics +plumbing and sensible level of insulation -the advantage is gone no problem in making outside of a house to look like that and presuming you don,t mind treating outside every year with a preservative -- not a lacquer . once sums were done i could build a sips house easier and cheaper --if you wanting to stay away from solid construction and clad it with your logs
  13. hence why if you doing total refit you could tank the walls as well-- like a cellar and french drain outside the walls -- if really worried all these things are why, if allowed its easier and cheaper to flattten and start again,even if you have to make it look the same exterior wise
  14. thats why when you doing a floor your plastic membrane goes under the insulation and up to the walls so it cannot transfer moisture from walls to floor slab
  15. look at any of the real passiv house builder guys and they will all tell you that PV is the last thing --even if it was suitable in your postion fabric of the house first --reduce energy requirements is primary goal --pv etc are the frills