scottishjohn

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scottishjohn last won the day on May 31

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About scottishjohn

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  • Birthday 11/09/1951

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  1. If he is doing it as per the book as well as the twin wall -he will need a shed load of pea gravel for sit it in for 95m + maybe spec is for brick inspection chambers and proper man size - no just a rodding hole If its very deep and poor soggy ground maybe he got to hold side of trench up while he fits it ?. maybe rock to peck out in the route to get depth required devil is in the detail for sure --get an itemised quote from your man - scan it with out the heading post it up and let us see
  2. no dont, like them -- as i saw roof that crows had pecked holes in while trying to peck at food they brought up to flat roof to consume - maybe not a common problem -but a worry
  3. is this basically same stuf as they use as a tanking solution for basements . is it hard when set is it crow and seagull peck proof ?
  4. If you were going to lay them all and coat with just resin to waterproof them till later --then T+G must be better- if going down rioute of pre grp each then maybe striaght edges could be easier -any resin in t+g slot would cause problems later maybe a talk with grp roof supplier is your next call
  5. as it was house i was living in it will be a guess but about a day per room even the kids got involved -screwing down the 6mm over ply the question you should be asking is would I do it that way again now no If i had enough space to sliding widows and doors etc _i would use a layover system and shorten doors etc would be quicker and insulation is built into the boards on some systems but next time i get involved with UFH it will be a new build not a refurbishment
  6. or just route that floor later this is what i did 20 +years ago --no pre routed board existed then 1/2" route and very good extraction -the trend system is first class and you will probably use 2 or 3 router bits or more if you don,t move screws ro miss your tracks ,before you start-guess how I know .LOL,only my floor was nailed then --what a bitch made up a template to go round corners at each end of run my channel was 30mm wide and 10mm deep as it was a triple pipe system - --modern type will be deeper but narrower i finish off by glueing and screwing 6mm ply on top of flooring to put back the strength
  7. I will be very surprised if building control accept anything but tanking and french drains- this is why you need a design - what you want and and what BC will accept could be totally different there are no extra problems using ICF for basements than any other system and you already have said you are wanting keep concrete and steel down -- you will not find the full solution for free no matter how long you study the net pick a system an SE and an architect professional fees are part of the cost with a tricky site you already have all the info you get for free already -by what you have said people who make your chosen system must be the ones to be at front of your design process --they will know cheapest way to build what you want I think an architect who does not know system will cost you money and delays If site is really tricky then you may need to spend some money on ground survey -to see if it will take what you want to do if its soggy --maybe it will have to a different system all together or spend large amount of very deep foundations sounds like you come to the end of the guessing game road and now need to spend on ground surveys and professionals then maybe you can decide what system you will use to build your house -- have you bought the plot yet?
  8. half right -- if the grp behind gel coat was resin rich -then there would be no place for water to be and therefore no osmosis --or what ever you want to name it ,but I understand why its not resin rich it makes it brittle, heavy and costs too much I am familiar with epxoies having built an aircraft from it- a europa - blue foam wing cores sheathed in bidirectional cloth and using west expoxy system - all expoxy systems are resin rich so it does not occur same as pre-preg grp + kevlar -- its always see through --no air pockets , cut out the bits stick them together in poly bag on the mould and evacuate it and autoclave it
  9. now you just made it non standard mentioning retaining walls,etc so yes you will need an SE --but surely best to use the design the maker of your chosen ICF system suggests
  10. thats why i say a coat of pure resin to start with --there is no absorption possible in pure resin ,that happens when fibre is added and its not resin rich --eg see through - not see through and there is space for water-as you well know - so my proposed first layer of resin seals everything in one simple quick job -that can then wait for better weather to add next grp layers that,s how osmosis happens - water gets in the fibre layers that are not fully wetted through and does not want to come out without lots of heat and ventilation
  11. if the boards are stored in the damp ,then it will be the same how ever you do it ,even if you have a tent - proper treated roofing boards should be reasonably water proof as they come , low temps - if dry just means more catalyst and or dif resin
  12. resepectfully we will disagree here -- if boards screwed down in the dry then a good coat of resin --they will be sealed-as it will run in the joints not coated then screwed down
  13. and choice of windows and bath rooms and kitchen can romp up price dramatically any of those could be 10 k or 40k+each same goes for flooring £1500 -£2500 sqm would be good estimate figure in my view don ,t see any one realistically doing for £1000 sqm --
  14. what ICF system ? they don,t all need lots of rebar except for round opening- uk is not earth quake zone check out Istoex they offer services like that as part of their services-just give them the plan
  15. what about fitting a few boards to roof --then just coating in resin including joins - do that as weather allows and then come back sand and apply lay-up and top to a section at a time that way boards are waterproofed ?