scottishjohn

Members
  • Content Count

    3,142
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

scottishjohn last won the day on May 31

scottishjohn had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

657 Excellent

3 Followers

About scottishjohn

Personal Information

  • Location
    south west scotland

Recent Profile Visitors

1,857 profile views
  1. Hi ,-- sorry i mis read your first post - and thought back wall was piled up with earth if not then the french drain at bottom of trench filled stone chips next to wall is a good solution you could always go for wainscott panelling on inside --which is one of the reasons why they used 100+years ago , -- cos bottom of wall was always prone to damp and that solved it very common in old farms and cottages
  2. if back wall has earth banked up to it --its always going to be good cause of damp in walls dig the earth way or you have to tank inside somehow lots of ways to do that --all cost money I have same problem with part of my old building project --suggested solution as its a total refurb -- build stud wall inside and then spray closed cell foam on wall --that is water proof only you can say how much damp there is sounds like its coming up from the floor if only 8-10" up the wall but would be suprised if its only coming from there if back wall is below ground level.
  3. resealed over10 of then for local renault dealer -- frame work plastic and not enough fixings --sikaflex cured them every time first time +no need for fixings once it cured same when we used to fit after market sunroofs to new car,before all cars had them --always came with foam sticky tape --soon learned to throw that away and use sikaflex pu adhesive NOT any type silicone sealer - you know you got the right stuff when you get it on your fingers and its takes a week to wear off even stuck engine mountings back together with it when rubber mount debonds from metal with old age --build it up nearly any thickness you like --but give it 24hrs per 3mm to cure before stressing it welly repairs sticking soles on shoes --my go too it stuff for sealing and repairs on flexible stuff
  4. hope he filled it with water --very prone to floating up if not and not mechanically fixed down ,especially as yuo say you have funny ground --if water table gets high with lots of rain seem a 40000litre GRP bunded petrol tank do that -before they managed to get it back filled with concrete --it rained over the week end and concrete was coming on monday had to fill it with water -then concrete it then pump it out after concrete set they intended to fill it with water on the friday waitng for concrete --but someone forgot
  5. my guess is they tried to seal it a couple of times --then did it the right way removing a full panaoramic glass rof is a big job and they would be worried about breaking it only way is to use a Fein saw with a knife blade between glass and frame -+ small wedges2mm to support it to stop it binding on blade same goes for your walk on glazing if its stuck in already https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/303627789857?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-153316-527457-8&mkcid=2&itemid=303627789857&targetid=4585032211933600&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=398226948&mkgroupid=1302921513642151&rlsatarget=pla-4585032211933600&abcId=2145997&merchantid=87779&msclkid=57bae7ae79171e02cfbeb81756d27369
  6. you mean WHEN it fails what ever it takes to avoid pumping i would do it -even if it seems more expensive now -- gravity never needs replacing --pumps do I had macerartors in buildings --nothing but problems --every one failed with a few years someone puts something in the bog that is solid -- like a kid dropping a toy car in there - you got problems only thing Iwould consider is a pump AFTER the sewage treatment -then its definately only water you moving - not a turd chopper
  7. read some -but not all of above this reminds me of fixing leaks on cars --water leaks can be a real pain to find exactly where its getting in ,cos where it shows can be a long way from actual leak from outside Ok your T shaped frame do you know for certain if its coming from the top lip or the bottom lip can you remove the actual glass bit ? if you can then get some sikaflex --same stuff as they stick car windscreens in with clean and dry glass and frame -bead of sikaflexex --drop it in # there will be no need for fixing of nay type once its set the down side maybe is you will never be able to remove it once its set you could same with the bottom lip all depends how easy it is to remove --but doing this will be a 100% fix for ever its basically same stuff as they make glass fish tanks with --but black If you don,t mind the colour I would then tip a tin of aquaseal (silver stuff) that reflects the sun and just a new cheap floor brush and push it around the roof to spread it out and fill the fbad felt joints -- --good dry day and its done or go old school and a tar boiler and pour it on when its liquid--its what they did with my petrol station concrete roof(bison beams -to make it burgular proof ) -to make it water tight --its flat --never leaks and melts in summer and self heals any cracks - I have done that every 5 years on my flat felt garage roof --still perfect 25 years on
  8. as per title basic ball park ocsts to making new roof trusses included comparison between standing seam and sarking and slates my architect was round today with first suggestion for rebuild of kirkmabreck house and stable block too much money for me I think so looking at alternatives and how to make it smaller --but look like same size from the front I won,t tell you the number --but its far too close to 7 figures for me-- archeoogists and SE are next things on list to do
  9. kind of different price bracket ii think
  10. yuo guys are really cheering me up --better pit the tomb back in the design i think like the pharohs of old --i could buried in it and still not completed .LOL
  11. thats just showing what crap quality and no doubt thin insulation has been used and no joints taped probably If done to a quote it will be thin and cheap stuff used and little time spent on fitting it -more probable that cold sweating condensation will be more of a problem if not lagged in a well insulated house If its well sealed house not really sure how much real heat loss to outside world there will be old drafty house --certainly will be a lot
  12. cost if moisture not a problem closed cell is what they use for buoyancy compartments in boats https://uk.video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=mcafee&p=matt+risinger+spray+foam+insulation+comparison#id=5&vid=c0e9d3091f607e0bb585cf3515a9a2b4&action=view
  13. beware there are 2 types --only closed cell is any good as a moisture barrier open cell is cheaper and good insulation --but not 100% moisture tight
  14. also getting quite popular in US for basement s --they spray the whole outside of anything below ground --very quick to do and also is very good air leak barrier--goesi nall the knocks and crannies by its nature