jfb

I presume you meant 100mm PIR over the timber frame as well as the 95mm between the frame. I'd use rock wool or something similar for between.

I had a couple of colorcoat roofs installed by the these guys and was very happy with them and the roof. I didn't go the DIY route because I was pretty much doing everything else so happy to pay more for this part of the build. I'm not sure if you are installing yourself or not but I wouldn't hesitate to call them as I suspect they could answer your questions pretty quick (maybe while getting an install quote). I also have a copy of the guarantee if you want to have a look. http://www.steelroofinstallersuk.com/contact-us/

I'm not sure how much free ventilation I would as it might increase the sound levels in the bedrooms of the MVHR.

I personally wouldn't worry about it - I have what you describe but no issues with moisture.

thanks for the replies - a single pole MCB seems the way to go

I am taking a supply from a 3 phase board to a single phase CU (with a 100A main breaker) and want to make sure it is done right (and before you ask I am planning on getting a qualified install as I am not an electrician but I want to know what I am talking about when I try to find that qualified help!) I have a 36m run of 3 core 16mm cable going from CU to a Lewden 3 phase board. There is one existing breaker in the 3 phase board that is a 3 pole 32A with the neutral going to a shared bar. Can one get a 3 pole MCB and just connect up the one pole for the 240V supply to the CU? Or are there specific breakers that allow you to go from 400V to 240V? Or can one just put in a single pole MCB and leave the other two blank? I was looking at something like this https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4553693-63a-triple-pole-10ka-type-c-mcb Is it an issue that it is a 63A 3 pole MCB if it is going to a 240V CU with a 100A main breaker (given that I am only going off one phase) - I will not be using more than 63A so I am assuming it should be ok. I hope this is enough info and thanks for any help.

yes to bonding with tacky pva then finish with skim (no need for pva when skimming onto bonding)

link doesn't work

What ever it is I would glue it down with PU glue. A mistake I put down to experience!

Compost loo went over! Luckily not too messy.

I found this tool quite useful for getting an idea of u values (and condensation risks) http://www.vesma.com/tutorial/uvalue01/uvalue01.htm

pretty sure you can use armoured without trunking - but I am not an electrician! Needs to be a certain depth and covered by a bit of plastic warning tape I believe.

do you want a nightclub or a kitchen!

I'm sorry but I don't have any advice on the car carrying roof. I don't know what stage you are at with it all and assuming it is a domestic property the u values are pretty unambitious. In fact I suspect they may not even pass building regs now as there were changes in 2014 and I see your plans were done before that.

i've never used them but I have heard that your bricky needs to be very accurate in laying them down as there isn't so much room for error.

if there are any joints use compression not solder as LPG will eat away at the soldered join

blimey - that's not right

I was lucky to borrow a big dehumidifier in a similar position and it was a big help. Second the don't turn MVHR on yet.

next time i lay some flooring down I will glue them on as well as screw to help avoid any creaking

that is a lot of down lights! or is that just me…..

I had a very similar build up with the dpm as you have it and used mesh for slab strength and, as you say, something to attach UFH to. Not sure how easy it would be to clip the UFH pipes to EPS (might be easier with other types of insulation board). The pipes will be under a fair bit of tension especially at tight corners and EPS isn't the firmest/strongest material to fix to.

i found I got competent with a digger in a day. Obviously there is a difference between competence and excellence. Maybe it depends on how useful such a skill may be in the future. But it is fun to learn!

I don't know if wasps deter bats, but I do know that bats deter mosquitoes!

my biggest regret on my renovation is being a cheapskate and using some plastic guttering for the back of my house. We used cast iron on the front and cast iron lookalike elsewhere but i just can't stand plastic!

If it is only a few square feet you could always just do it dry. if you are going to try and expose the aggregates it might be easier to use pretty fine stones like in the example in the video. If you have normal ballast it will be a lot more work.