readiescards

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readiescards last won the day on August 21 2017

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  1. While it certainly gives Egger a get out, they seem unfazed and suggested their product will still be fine. Have to agree as three of the rooms where not exposed to extreme weather and yet still are suffering floor bounce/flex.
  2. Sorry old photo, should have been more clear. I was trying to show lack of weep-holes on roof side
  3. Further to: Both my stacks (above the lead apron) seem to gather considerable moisture (a separate thread). This moisture then exits via the above lead apron weep-holes and drains onto the bricks below the lead. The weep-holes are only on the gable ends (none on the roof side of the stacks). Question is it normal practice to have weep-holes on the gable ends rather than the roof side? I ask, as I'm wondering if the weep-holes had drained on to the roof, then the considerable moisture would be hit the non-porous tiles and be quickly removed via the guttering etc. Instead it appears to me that the moisture is feeding the bricks below the lead apron. Thanks Paul
  4. Further to my builder is now this damp on condensation due to my late decision to insulate the attic. Can anyone recommend a condensation consultant/firm who via studying photos, drawings etc can advice if there is a chance condensation is the cause please? Happy to pay for a detailed report. Thanks
  5. Odd my builder and the posi-joist manufacturer both are blaming the abuse the egger boards took from 6 months of bad weather as being the source of the floor movement/bounce. While Egger themselves remain adamant their product would be fine. (It did swell a tiny bit on a couple of exposed edges but that was about all)
  6. Can this thread remain on the subject 'Floor bounce - PosiJoist Floor Vibration checks' please ? Many thanks Paul PS My floors seem worse as time passes or it is cold outside (not sure which)
  7. 3 years on, drawing combustion air from my ventilated under floor space works fine. If I was doing it again I'd make the vent a bit bigger, as although I made it 150% (I think) over sized. I wonder if the tight right angle I'm make the air flow go through is slightly limited draw
  8. 600mm posis standard spec - bloody awful for me really regret them.
  9. The 'cross-talk' I put down to the internal leaks within the MVHR - there are plenty of routes for the stale air to be sucked into the fresh air feed within the device. Mine you havn't noticed it recently
  10. Light shower overnight and 0.5 litre collected on East stack so assume same will have entered West stack. 😞
  11. We heard some 'funny' noises this morning in the attic. No smell of mice and no droppings but odd little patches of broken foam, nibbled? Anyone experience of mice living in spray foam or using it for nest building? Thanks Paul
  12. Looking up from the attic into the live stack at the underside of the lead I can see drips of black sealant (I guess). Is it normal practice to apply sealant to the brick-lead joint? thanks
  13. (The East stack has the log burner flue) Today the We st stack soaking of the gable end bricks has now got so far it has breached into the living space both in the attic and in the utility room (the one below the red tiles): You can see the bricks above the lead tray on the West stack are very very damp to the point mould is growing in the mortar. Below the lead tray is a patch of brickwork that has been repointed and had a water proofing applied (which has run down the wall creating the horrible looking square patch). The soaked bricks are now onto the utility wall I think considerable water is being captured in the 'sealed' void above the lead tray of West stack (which I believe is an empty single brick wall void) that is some how breaching the lead tray and various cavity trays below that. Question: * I've been told the flaunching is absorbing rain - is there a good reason for the flaunching not being regular water proof concrete? * discussion above suggest this void should be ether double skinned/insulated. Rather than using vermiculite (which once damp collapses and is damp for ever) could it be filled with rigid insulation (Xtratherm type stuff) - would that be a 50+ year solution? Thanks as always - the Buildhub continues to be a life-saver for me