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Found 18 results

  1. Several months ago on a thread I can no longer locate, I committed to donating the location to create a short video of installing conduit for running electric cable to sockets in EPS insulation, specifically in this case Nudura. Well, finally, I bought a roundtuit, and we have results. For those who don't know, if you are not using the low smoke insulated cable (at 20-30% more cost), then using conduit is the way to go. Why? If the cable heats up, it can melt the EPS which turns into a glass like substance. This in turn can then cut the insulation on the outside of the cable with potentially devastating consequences. First the video (sorry, can't seem to resize this): 20240519_162745.mp4 Link for the hot knife - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07F8LFRCF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 No extra videos, just a few follow on picture of the conduit in place The sockets have since been cut further back into the EPS so the conduit sits flat
  2. I was wondering what you think about insulating under a block and beam floor. Building control specifies approx 200mm ventilated gap under a suspended block and beam floor. I am quite unsure of why this is. Apart from expanding of clay floor underneath, I can't quite see a reason (with suspended timber, it would be air circulation, but for block and beam?) Would it be possible to fill the space underneath with insulation. For example perlite, or some other no moisture/rot sensitive materials, maybe eps in granulated form. What would be the problems that could arise from it? Anybody got some experience in doing this?
  3. Hi, We're planning a self build with an insulated EPS foundation and UFH on top, in the floor slab. Does anyone know if we can polish this floor slab up to make a polished concrete floor? and does this work out cheaper than say, tiling the floor, as we're not doubling up on materials? Thanks Lauren
  4. So the floor is going in. The second half of the sub-floor area of concrete was done diy by family and friends, using fibre reinforced concrete. A great success, and who needs groundworkers, as long as you have one skilled person and 4 barrows with 4 helpers? 150mm of insulation is next. Planning on 2 layers, 100 over 50, thanks to the very helpful older discussions. as it is slightly cheaper, allows laps, and also better for cutting in isolated pipes and ducts. Then there will be 50mm Cemfloor with UFH. Maybe use 50EPS for the bottom as it will save about £1,000 and there is a diminishing return as it gets thicker. On the other hand, for a big order perhaps PIR will reduce in price enough. Any suggestions as to buying from the national specialist merchants, local merchants or the online companies? I think someone said that PIR only comes via merchants but EPS can come from manufacturers. Total area is 270m2, so pretty well a small lorry load. Perhaps that can come straight from the manufacturer and save double handling by the merchant that takes an easy fee. FYI online prices are, per single sheet, PIR 50mm £22 or EPS £11 100mm £39 150.. £62 (and sometimes 125mm is dearer than 150.)
  5. Hi there, I've a 125m2 extension being erected next year with a pretty basic floor slab planned. Floor covering 65mm Screed UFH Pipwork 150mm PIR insulation 100mm c35 concrete with mesh Whilst looking at the overall prices of each piece of work there's a couple of questions that have come up would it beneficial to change the floor structure to incorporate circa 250mm of eps insulation under the concrete slab, instead of the 150mm pir above slab. And whilst I am at it, possible to incorporate the Under floor heating pipework into the slab, as opposed to having the pipework in a screed on top of the slab? The reason for looking at this is to save time and money. The 250mm of eps insulation has similar u value to 150mm pir, whilst being cheaper - circa 1k at the moment, but there is another price increase on pir due in February. If I incorporated the pipework into the slab, I could save circa 4k for the screed work post panel installation, but it would also mean I could crack on with the studwork immediately after the kit erection as opposed to laying pipework and ordering in self levelling screed. any thoughts/drawbacks?
  6. Just starting to dig to find the drain pipes that poke out of our MBC EPS slab foundation (thank goodness we took photos a year ago ?) and wondering how to best finish up against the EPS when getting back up to finish ground level. we have put some rat mesh over the EPS. Can we simply back fill with some spare MOT type 1 and bits of rubble or do we need to line the EPS with something? Finished ground level will be at the bottom of aluminium trim. Probably going to have some paving round the house in places but not everywhere.
  7. The raft foundation gang have been in today, loads of them and great progress. I heard a cuss as one of the gang had broken the upstand off a piece of the EPS which I was assured would be fixed. When I returned to site the fix was in place, but as you'll see from the pics the fix, using a bit of spare EPS, the depth of the upstand is reduced from the original. We have GRP angles that will sit on the upstand and be keyed to the slab. With the 'fix' there will be a small void between the GRP and that thinner bit of upstand. Should I insist on a replacement piece of EPS that matches the original or will it bit ok with the answer I'm expect when I see them tomorrow, that they will pack it out and everything will be ok? Difficult to see in the pictures, but the depth of the upstand in the replacement piece of EPS is probably 20mm less than the original.
  8. So I have had a ten ton digger pecking rock out to make way for a basement and extension. Was planning on 200mm EPS under the slab, and 200mm EPS around the exterior of the basement walls. I do have two walls against the existing house to retain the house founds, as well as creating the basement walls. SE has categorically stated he will not entertain EPS300 under the slab. We are on solid rock for almost the whole slab. It is supporting three stories above. Some pics showing existing founds etc. Was going to use Jackodur system as it also creates the former to pour the concrete too. I was initially concerned when we exposed the existing house founds and the SE had a fit and demanded all work stop, until the house was underpinned. However I elected to continue and pecker out the rock, wether through luck or judgement the house is still standing. So now I either accept the SE proposals or find another one for a second opinion. Rebar sched2 (1).pdf SE version2.pdf
  9. I've got a small area of wall with two skins of block/brick with a gap 15-20mm that I want to fill with insulation, it's below DPC so I don't think mineral wool etc. Current idea is either spray foam or loose EPS beads/shavings. Any other options I might of missed?
  10. I have just bought a property which was newly built in 2013 , shortly after being occupied the property was fire damaged. The UFH system was decommissioned shortly after the fire which extensively damaging the wooden joists & rafters however did not impact on the floor slab. The building was left exposed to the elements for the past 4 years, my question , is the UFH pipe work in the slab still fit for purpose ?
  11. I've realized we have the available height to add an additional sheet of insulation under our 100mm ground floor slab. Originally I had planned on using 2 x 100mm EPS70 with the DPM underneath as stated by Jabfloor. If I add an additional 100mm sheet on the bottom would there be any issues using it as a blind and sandwiching the DPM above it but below the upper two sheets? Consensus seems to be EPS can get wet - but Jabloor to state DPM first then EPS hence the doubt... Also any additional issues going thicker with EPS70 rather than one of the denser variants? thanks
  12. Here's our floor construction. I'd appreciate any opinions on it and in particular on a couple of details currently in decision limbo: 1) I'd assumed the DPM would go as pictured in this diagram - under the insulation - as it seems to make sense to have it contained within the waterproof envelope. A couple of people have suggested that the membrane goes OVER the insulation though. 2) slab reinforcement & UFH... am I overkilling by adding reinforcement mesh mainly to give me something to attach the UFH pipes to? Would it be easier to clip the UFH to the insulation (I saw a handy clip gun thing) and leave out the steel? By the way, the EWI isn't shown on the diagram above but is (probably) 200mm of EPS extending down 200mm below the slab insulation.
  13. Hi guys, I am looking for a bit of advice on a external wall insulation system and where I can buy it. I am thinking of insulating part of my house and a recent extension (within past 10 years I think) which seems to have shocking insulation, part of the house I would just want to render over and possibly the extension would end up with Marley weatherboard or something on the external. I have seen this stuff going on, it looks very easy to install yet everywhere I look they want to sell and install the product. So, can anyone advise on a system and where I can get hold of it. Thanks
  14. Okay, big iceberg delivery yesterday, so now I need to start laying the insulation for my slab: Bungalow has two extensions which are piled slabs – both extension slabs will have a mix of PIR and EPS. The bungalow floor has been dug up, hardcore is down and I am ready to fill that with EPS. The extension slabs both have SIPS sitting on blockwork, with cold-bridging around the sole plate best mitigated with marmox block beneath and external insulation on outside SIP wall (see pic). No feedback required on that please! : ) I just need a sanity check on the slab insulation please: Bamboo flooring 80mm meshed concrete with UFH (with 25mm EPS upstands) DPM 100mm PIR 160mm EPS Radon barrier (lapping with DPC under sole plate) 225mm Existing piled slab A mix of PIR and EPS to attain desired u-value / get correct FFL height. My thoughts were that it’s safest to get PIR on top of the EPS away from piled slab in terms of moisture. I was also thinking the PIR is better at withstanding point loads from the mesh chairs/spacers that will keep the mesh elevated above the insulation. Should I wrap it entirely in polythene/DPM to prevent moisture travelling up into the PIR? I was just going to cover the top with DPM as it is foil faced. Or should I have EPS on top and PIR at the bottom? Or does it matter?? Feedback appreciated. OB
  15. Hi All, I previously removed an exterior brick wall in order to extend lounge. Where my new slab extension meets the old bungalow cavity wall, I need to decide what to do with the cavity that goes down to a depth of approx. 800mm to the footings before I lay down my new floor slab. The old bungalow floor has been dug up in order to install 300mm EPS with UFH in 100mm meshed concrete. The attached pic shows the new extension to the right of the cavity with sand blinded hardcore floor of bungalow to the left. My options as I see it: 1) Leave cavity as it is and just cover the cavity with 300mm EPS. 2) Fill cavity (with gravel / concrete) 3) Fill with EPS beads I have plenty of beads at my disposal, so I am tempted to go with option 3. TIA! OB
  16. Just levelling off my last few rooms with sand prior to laying down my EPS/PIR boards. I remember on ebuild someone suggested to me that it wouldn't hurt to sprinkle down some ant powder with the sand. It's probably overkill, but I don't want any ants in there creating a labyrinth of tunnels that may create hollows within the insulation. FWIW, floor build up: Bamboo/tiles Meshed concrete/UFH EPS/PIR Radon barrier EPS Sand Hardcore No issues with ants in the property and removing the old slab, there was no sign of any ants, but I've read of ants making cosy homes within EPS/EPS beads (but mostly where it's been moist). So if I do use ant powder, is there anything that I should be aware of? I don't want the powder eating away at the EPS! TIA
  17. Our contractors effectively treated the EPS slab as if it was level ground (i.e. they ignored it) and built their traditional steel lattice & formwork / shuttering on top. Slab and a 100mm kicker first and then built off this as they did the walls in sections. The kicker is necessary to hold the vertical formwork straight on the slab. Water bar on every join (inspected by the Sika rep) and Sika additive in the concrete as this was our sole waterproofing method. I don't think any serious concrete crew will entertain EPS upstands for a basement slab as they would get trashed when doing the walls - the formwork they use is very heavy duty and is craned into position for each wall pour. In my mind, EPS formwork only really works for ground level slabs or ICF where traditional formwork is not being used. For a basement you need to use traditional formwork and apply the EPS to the cast walls afterwards.
  18. Apologies about another "who shall I contact?) posting. Again, I just don't want to miss out on any obvious suppliers/merchants out there and as insulation is one of may main cost areas, I'm looking to get the best price I can....obviously. I'm looking to get a mix of EPS and PIR for under slab and slabs for in between rafters ("frametherm"). I've tried some merchants that people here have suggested before on ebuild including the following: Minster Encon SIG Ecclestone & Hart And a host of local merchants and online-only outlets (Less2build, InsulationGiant, Insulation Express). so far, some are double the cost!!! Any obvious ones worth trying please? Again, I'll post my results on here for future readers to try too! Thanks.
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