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oranjeboom last won the day on July 22 2016

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  1. So I think I have decided that using a HT ASHP to charge a Sunamp Dual and my UFH does not make sense. So will probably stick with: eDual for DHW (charged by grid and PV) low temp ASHP for UFH However, I still am thinking about getting the ASHP sitting there doing nothing when there is no call for heat. So with an additional Dual (PCM58, only fed by a heat source only) it's clear that using a low temp ASHP won't get the water to a high enough temp for the sunamp to re-charge. But what about getting a Willis heater in the mix? ASHP temp (35c) -> Willis heater (+30c) -> Sunamp (65c) Means that I get the water efficiently heaterd to 35c with a decent COP but obviously grid (in winter) to charge the willis. Could a willis even be set up in this arrangement or would I still need a tank/cylinder? Was hoping that the willis could simply be integrated into the plumbing between the ASHP and the Sunamp but presume this would depend on the flow rate that the Willis needs? Would just be nice to have the use of the ASHP when it's not needed by the UFH. the Dual sunamp can then be charged for DHW (and UFH if needed).
  2. At least @Onoff should win on the lowest cost factor!
  3. I use the Everbuild brand. The last batch of 12 cans were Soudal and they were a pain. If you left a can 1/2 used for a few weeks it would just go off and lose it's 'fizz' ending up in a dribble. I've just gone back to Everbuild. You can leave the cans lying around without having to use them up in a few days. I prefer hand-held as with the gun grade stuff you have to keep cleaning the gun ceremoniously. With the hand held you just let the foam dry in the straw and then pull it out on next use with a longish screw. With a gun you have a bit more control with how much you squirt out, but you soon learn how to go careful even handheld method. I recall reading on ebuild @JSHarris creating some device that would fine tune the exact amount of foam to the nearest mm. Or was that something else?
  4. What will be completed first - Brexit or the bathroom?
  5. @Wagas Have a read here. Some entertaining discussing on some 'revolutionary technology'
  6. ?? Mechanical and electrical boff? HWC = Hot water cylinder? Can't answer all of your questions, however: - If you have gas, that may work out cheaper for you as gas boiler is cheaper install than sunamp and ashp. Yearly gas checks though, standing charges etc. I think in many cases, gas will still win if ASHP has a lower COP than anticipated, house leaks heat like a tent etc. - A high temp ASHP can modulate down. So once it's done your high temp input into Sunamp for DHW, it can reduce temp down to your UFH temp. - Heating costs of DHW using cheap (E10/E7) or 'excess PV via HT ASHP may be cheaper than gas if the ASHP is appropriately sized I think. I am sure others can comment with some facts, figures and science.
  7. Thanks Jeremy, Ed. I knew that would all have been too simple an approach! As the literature says "The standard models of the Sunamp heat batteries are supplied with PCM58 and these heat batteries can be used with any heat source which can run at flow temperature greater than 65oC. The discharge temperature from these standard heat battery models will be between 52 and 55oC". I was then thinking of using PCM34 instead as would be able to use a low temp ASHP then as the PCM requires flow temp from heat source at over 45oC. Only downfall then is that the discharge temp is only around 32oC and too cool for our DHW needs. And I'm not aware of where things stand with PCM34 in any case. So I can discount this UNiQ variant then! Back to the Dual and choosing a high temp ASHP then! The mind's beginning to crumble!
  8. Still mulling over my final choice of Sunamp variants... Considering Dual vs HWi+i in combination with an ASHP. In the event that my ASHP goes offline (more likely if I get a cheap import) then the Dual is offline too whilst the HW+i can still be charged electrically. Does anyone have the HW+i unit? Am I correct in thinking that the charging of the unit can easily be switched from charging between electric or a heat source? The Sunamp guide states: "The UniQ HW+i and UniQ HW+iPV heat batteries are designed to be heated primarily by an external heat source (e.g. boiler, heat pump) and for producing mains pressure hot water heating in buildings. Therefore, these heat batteries are equivalent to indirect unvented hot water cylinders or hot water only thermal stores. The UniQ HW+i models are fitted with standby electric heating elements to heat hot water when the main heat source fails." Are these units designed to only be charged electrically for short only durations? Or is it fine to use them primarily via electric heating? I was planning to have a low temp ASHP that will charge my UFH. I am thinking that in those times that there is no call for UFH heating, I could use the ASHP to at least raise the heat in the Sunamp unit to say 50c? Now if I understand, the std units need to be charged to at least 58c, so is it possible then to charge the PCM to 50c (from the ASHP), and then the electrical heating element to take the PCM temp to the required level of 58c? If that's not the case, then no point in considering the HW+i model. Other idea is to go for Dual model (does DHW and space heating) and then use a HT ASHP to charge that to the required temps. I can then utilise that to do both DHW and UFH. If the unit is fully depleted in the evening from showers etc and there is a demand for heat, then at least the ASHP can kick in to feed the UFH directly via means of a blending valve. And if I go E10, I can ensure the ASHP is charging the Sunamp units and slab. Just means that I choose to go for a Dual, then I am more inclined to go for a non-cheap import ASHP!
  9. Yes, @JSHarris, having been literally been burnt with some cheap Chinese LED lights, I think I am leaning towards a big name (unless I can get a unit for under £1k). This particular outlet came back to confirm that the warranty is with them so for me is no good as I would want to know that they will be around during the warranty period. And I should probably be looking at having more faith in my heat loss calcs and size a bit more appropriately as 30% modulation seems standard on most brands so a 10kW unit may not make sense when heat loss indicates around 6000w.
  10. Yes, saw that one too. Probably a case that you end up with a Copeland rather than a Mitsu: Not that I am qualified to compare the two brands though! But for another £100 and the fact that you have a 5yr warranty... Actually, I re-read the listing. You get a Copeland if you go over 11.6kW. And as far as i can make out, only the 18.7kW model has an inverter. As the Dragons say "and on that basis, I am out" (on these units). Looks like people already reviewed the seller here: Will see what my installer comes up with, but will probably be a fair bit more ££££!
  11. Just resurrecting this thread as now looking to get my ASHP. If I go with pessimistic heat requirements, then that points to 10Kw input. Do I need to slightly oversize in any case and then run it slightly lower? ASHP will only be heating up the UFH (DHW will be via sunamps) so no cylinder needed. I presume also that I should be looking for an inverter controlled unit so that it's not simply turning on/off all time? Anything else I should be looking for? I have an installer in mind but don't want to be sold something I don't need! And most likely won't be going the RHI route unless his install price is really good. Haven't seen any Carrier units on ebay but did see this 10kW unit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ex-Display-AIR-SOURCE-HEAT-PUMP-WATER-HEATER-10kW-EVI-Heat-Pump-Works-to-25/113863582069?hash=item1a82cc6175:g:S1kAAOSwSk5dLwgp Anyone know the credentials of this unit?
  12. Thanks @JSHarris! I have used the longest path principle for most rooms where practical. The eaves in some rooms meant that some vents had to be some distance closer to the doors but on the whole I am happy with most of the positions, taking into account potential placements of future tall wardrobes, bookshelves etc. Just thought I would check on the bathroom and kitchen positions as was not convinced the positions indicated by BPC were optimal. So will re-locate the vents for both rooms. Was a bit concerned of having a dead zone in the bathroom at the bath end, so planning to move the vent closer to that end of the room. At least it's only 34c in the loft now!
  13. Great time to be doing the final ducting work in the loft. Probably 50c in there at the moment.... Kitchen: This will have a re-circulating hob extractor, so no connection to MVHR. Is the location of the MVHR extract in the best location? Probably 1m from hob? Bathroom: Should the extract be closer to the shower or more central in the room? I was going to go for position A. Both rooms will have a 'boost' switch to cater for cooking/showering periods.
  14. @Nickfromwales Hi Nick, any more thoughts? 😁 https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/10802-is-a-16kw-ht-ashp-really-needed-for-my-ufh-with-these-heat-loss-figures/?tab=comments#comment-183019 Alternatively, when are you next in Kent? 🔧🔨🆘😛🍺