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oranjeboom last won the day on July 22 2016

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  1. Hoping someone can help. Just checking the title deeds and not sure what we've got. B: Proprietorship Register: (Date) RESTRICTION: No disposition of the registered estate by the proprietor of the registered estate is to be registered without a written consent signed by the proprietor for the time being of the Charge dated (DATE) in favour of (LENDER NAME) referred to in the Charges Register. Does that reflect a Joint Tenancy (as Tenancy in Common usually starts with "No disposition by a sole proprietor of the registered estate....") Thanks in advance OB
  2. Well, I could get away with 70-80mm and still retain the required 150mm clearance below the DPC as required by BuildRegs. Not bifolds. Just french doors that open outwards. Watertight? As in damp, or water ingress from rain etc?
  3. I have plenty of depth to play with. The doors are still a bit too high and there's a slope in the base already. So what's the min thickness, Nick? Doors sit on foamglass. External cill will lip onto the door frame but not fitted until slab is done. Problem is that there is already a slope in the current base, so levelling is going to be an issue surely?
  4. Hi All, Hoping to complete the patio in the next few days. Concrete slab needs a bit of levelling and ensuring slope is sufficient so will need to add a semi dry screed prior to laying the 10mm porcelain tiles. Some questions: 1) Screed okay with one part cement to three to five parts sharp sand? How long before I can tile on top of that? 2) What adhesive should I be using for the porcelain tiles? Would this Mapei Porcelain adhesive be okay? https://www.toolstation.com/mapei-stone-porcelain-adhesive-20kg/p57343?store=C5&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=s_dc&pcrid=515847200306&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqKuKBhCxARIsACf4XuH2yjuBtJrOJesLRv1RUFPg47RO8EjPIgKZh6OrNZAwt7-1Ysm7mJ8aAg9bEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds 3) I've also read that priming the tiles would be a good idea - anything specific I should aim to get? Thanks in advance.
  5. Each Sunamp has it's own radial with 20A MCB on the fuse board. I'll replace the FCU's with 20A DP switches then and see how that goes. I've switched on the dormant Sunamp unit in the meantime so that we have DHW today at least - bloody expensive backup for a £4 FCU failure!! ? Thanks for the comments!
  6. What turned out not to be the smell of dog's piss in the hallway, but instead a slowly melting FCU! I have 2 electrical sunamp units ( one is dormant as only 1 bathroom is in action and they are only used for DHW) but the other one will hit charge mode every day (usually each time after someone's had a shower). So I noticed that the area around the fuse was getting bloody hot, so hot that i have to get my thermal thermometer which read over 110 C! Each time the Sunamp unit would call for heat the smell from the FCU would get worse and towards the end it would start smoking. Not sufficient smoke to set off the smoke alarm, but a real concern that the actual fuse didn't just go pop. It's a 13A fuse in there. This is now the 2nd fused outlet that I have had from Toolstation's 'Axiom' range that has seriously overheated but never to this extent. I've got a spare Axiom FCU but a bit hesitant to put that in if it can't cope with the load. Or is there another explanation for the meltdown? The Sunamp's been in use for just over a year with no glitch. The MCB in the CPU is 20A. The Sunamp units and wiring were all completed by a SA-approved installer. Any ideas?
  7. It looks from the pic that there's a retaining wall underneath the fence which would suggest that their plot is on level ground at the back of their garden. When they are not in / passed out, you could measure the height from the lowest point in your garden to see accurately what the height is. Have you spoken to other neighbours who may also be impacted (do they have neighbours on the other side also?). They may be in touch with council also or don;t feel as intimidated as you do. As for their shenanigans at the front of your house, I would install a discrete CCTV camera to capture any BS from them in future. You may also want to install one out the back (or even an indoor camera that you can place in a window cill if needed if you think things are getting out of hand during one of their parties). I have one of these and it's been a great little device before I install something fixed: https://www.toolstation.com/ezviz-mini-o-plus-1080p-indoor-wi-fi-camera/p59325 I feel for you! Whether you have kids or not, they should respect you and your right to privacy, sleep etc. When we were in our early 20s I'd be doing a bit of DIY in our marionette and the old cantankerous git from downstairs would be moaning at me for disturbing him at 17:30 "can't watch the news etc etc" They also accused us of other things like cigarette butts in their garden (we didn't even smoke). We were too nice to them in all honesty and should have held our ground as should you. I get on well with my current neighbour and will apologise to them if I've been making a racket and they do so likewise if their dog's been barking at me through the hedge. There's probably nothing you can 'apologise' for to get them a bit more on wavelength "we're having a kids birthday party soon - is there any day that you are working from home as it may get a bit noisey...." That kind of thing? Shows that you are a respectful neighbour etc etc. They may curb their antisocial antics a bit. The positive thing is, that the 'shed' is facing the other way - be worse if it was on the other side facing you IMO. I see all the seating is on the other side also - again, be worse if they were all against your side of the fence. If the council step and decide that they have built it too high, then perhaps you could reach a compromise (they erect a taller fence/ add trellis) rather than lowering everything their side as that will cost them a fair bit to do / aggravate them (but that's their fault!!). Good luck!
  8. Creating a raised deck (approx 900mm above GFL at it's highest point (see corner where Muttly's standing): Looking to KISS and keep costs minimal as the composite decking itself is costing quite a bit. Obviously little point in going for composite boards if the structural deck starts rotting away in a few years time so looking at solutions that will last at least the warranty period of the composite (20-25yrs). It will be a wrap around L-shaped deck with steps leading off one corner into garden and a small set of steps down the side of the house. Will need balustrade of some type with perhaps partly glazed (keep the wind at bay from the adjacent field) and wire balustrade. No abnormal large loads such as a jacuzzi but I'd still like to achieve above imposed load 1.5kN/m2 specifications. These are the plans so far: Post fixed into ground with concrete. Postcrete calculator suggests 1 bag every 10cm deep...so if I do go down as far as 700mm that's 7 bags per post! And I need quite a few posts! Ker-ching @£5/bag!!! So just mixing plain concrete will be a bit cheaper! Most 100mm x 100mm posts are good for 15yrs so I'd have to take extra measures to make them last beyond that and could try the 'postsaver'. I did also consider using ground screws that are drilled into the ground. Quick, but still pricey with 28 screws costing be around £1000. Concrete decking posts would be fine also but due to the shortage chaos caused by (take your pick) the unseasonly bad weather/COVID/brexit/climate crisis/Napoleonic wars/demise of the USSR are difficult to get hold of (and are pricey!). Working from the Trada span tables, I have gone for doubled-up beams to support the 400mm centred joists. The decking boards I will probably go for are fine with 500mm (https://www.eva-last.co.uk/item/infinity-iseries/ ). Ledger board will be affixed to the slab of the house and concreted 100mm structural timber posts into the predominantly clay ground. Plan is to place a concrete block in the hole with bitumed leg of each post on top and then fullt concreted to above GFL with postsaver. QUESTIONS! 1) First question I have is will 700mm be sufficiently deep? That seems to be the standard to aim for. 2) One thing I don't understand is the 'beam size' in mm in the Trada tables. Perhaps someone can enlighten me! Using the Trada tables, I plan to do the following: Joist spans of approx 1.94m using 45x147mm Beam span at 1.8m using 45x170mm Any major holes with these plans? I'll probably get someone to construct the main deck for me but have seen some shocking decks that 'experts' have thrown together so I want to ensure that whatever is erected is pretty much in alignment what I have planned for.
  9. There's more to worry about in life! No idea how the clutz managed to do it, but forced mesh and pipework to come up through the concrete. Then tried to cover up the shambles by trying to cover up the bits poking through with some more concrete on top...funnily enough I didn't end up with a very level finish....
  10. Yes, that was due to the guy pouring the concrete proving his total incompetence at this task (despite being recommended by an architect). Try and keep an eye on the pour if you're gettimg someone else to do that. My pipes were all tied down to wire mesh and filled with water so no excuses for the nightmare that unfolded.
  11. The old part of the house (cavity wall) will have EPS with render - items to be sourced from EWIstore. The SIPs house extensions are all cedar however.
  12. Just created a gap in the cedar board that butted up to the window. This was then meshed. Found some pics for you. You can just make out the slots in this pic: Okay, found some better pics: and the mesh:
  13. I roofed first (also SIP structure) and then battened the SIP walls for my cedar cladding ensuring ventilation via linear a soffit at the top. I also ensured I had ventilation at the top of all windows/windows so that there wasn't any part of SIP wall that had any 'dead areas'. So I think roofing first, then cladding and then finishing off with the soffits is the easiest way to do it.
  14. What's the difference between the Wickes one? I see their widths are different as well as their commplete form, but still using the specialised fixings. (wickes) Eva-Last Arctic Birch Composite Deckboard Apex (140mm) Eva I_series (135mm) Is either one 'superior'? Both offer 25yr warranties. I-series is arched so better for drainage (?) and the I-beam 'feet' should also allow better ventilation if fixing these to standard timber platform. £63 in Wickes (multi-pack) or I-series a bit cheaper at £56 (e.g. https://www.mkmbs.co.uk/product/evalast-iseries-decking-grv-2s-rustic-oak-254mm-x-135mm-48m-t012079). Millboard is around £67 inc delivery. Have you got any pics of your decking @Toppers?
  15. I'm currently looking at this again and I think Millboard is the one I'm going for. Waiting for some more samples to arrive to make a final decision. I've only seen a small deck with it at a local installer and it did look superior to their 'own' product which they claimed (iirc) had a warranty that was as long as Millboard's, but I doubt they'll be around in 5 years, let alone 25yrs. Prices and transport costs seem to vary quite a bit too for MB. I'll try and find my list of prices....
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