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oranjeboom last won the day on July 22 2016

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  1. It's pretty much covered up with a mix of loft roll, PIR and silver bubble wrap type stuff, but will take some pics.
  2. Right, so I've had all my ducting and vents in for a while. Manifolds have been partially fitted but the main Vent Axia was not ready to be used as I wanted it to be fully insulated before usage (As all ducting and main unit is in cold loft). All vent points in the rooms have been sealed off up to this point....apart from one - the bathroom which for some reason I had opened up and fitted with air valve (think it was to demonstrate the look to the wife). I'm not 100% sure why one duct has filled with water, but what I think what has happened is that steam from bathroom has escaped up the vent, along the ducting, into manifold and then down again into one of the other ducts...and eventually condensed to create a nice pool of water. The particular duct is a fresh supply feed to one of the rooms. So should I just leave it and let future air dry out the duct (and hope there's no mould build up in the meantime?). Or should I cut a small pin prick in there now and drain and seal up? I'm hoping to have the whole system insulated and ready to start using it in the next few days. Any input anyone?
  3. I ended up getting a reconditioned unit after I opened up the tanks to find there was no resin in there! So must have bought a dud item from ebay. I may try and buy resin and attempt to fix the issue at some point in the future. I think that may also explain why I had the dripping from the waste pipe. Thanks for the links - will save those for later.
  4. Is it gunked up at all? I bought this Wilo one. https://www.toolstation.com/wilo-yonos-pico-circulating-pump/p34661?searchstr=wilo Not sure how that compares against the £10 cheaper one. It's pretty quiet and also has an automatic air bleed thingey.
  5. I now have 2 indeed. One pumps the water around the loops (via manifold) and then the other pumps water around the Willis circuit: I didn't add any inhibitor to the system, but flushed the whole system (clearing any of the previous inhib) and then re-filled with soft water. Willis heaters don't appear to be hissing any more so hopefully no scale up (since soft water) and the extra pump helps push the water around. Both are set to around 40oC in order to get sufficient temp into the floor. Have it running usually for around 2hrs in the morning and 2hrs later afternoon. Pretty mild temps outside at the moment so will have to wait until the New Year to see whether I need to get an ASHP instead.
  6. That's what I am doing upstairs. Up through floor and into built-in w/r and then out through a top panel of the w/r. You could also just encase it in an exposed false beam (glulam-look rather than mock tudor!) or box the pipe in a corner of the room (if you have any). You could also just not hide it and have it exposed in some steel/aluminium pipe if the look is okay for you.
  7. I kept it very cordial with UKPN, never threatened them. The agreement that was in place for my plot was null and void so that helped. When a UKPN tree surgeon turned up one day to prune the trees around the cables, I simply refused access. Which helped things along as it showed I wasn't going along with any delaying tactics. In the end, I went ahead with my build with the live HV overhead cables but was just under the minimum permissable 'safe distances', though it was bloody close. I also did most of the high work myself including the ridge tiles and rooflights. Scariest bit was with the scaffolders, but they were very professional and careful but I would never have forgiven myself if something had gone awry. I had warning tape and signs up everywhere and physical barrier to prevent any stupidity! I had informed UKPN that I wanted them removed so it was just a matter of time and in the end they did so - I came back from holiday and they were gone after they had undergrounded them in the field next to my plot. So as long as you inform them you could still potentially start your build with the knowledge that they will be gone sooner or later. As long as you don't have to have open windows for the cables to pass through! Of course you need to be sure that the cables will be removed at some point in the future. Just found the dates - it took 3.5yrs from me contacting them initially to cables being removed. But of course I was able to proceed with the build in the meantime so didn't really hold me up and therefore I wasn't that pushy.
  8. Okay, testing the other Tesla element in 'kettle' type setup as below resulted in the breaker tripping on each attempt (thermostat set to about 30oC). At least the other Tesla one had the safety mechanism kick in. So I replaced both of them with the Backer ones from TLC. And testing one of these new ones, it actually only overshot slightly above 40c in the kettle method. Anyway, the Tesla ones never overheated when I was running the Willis heaters - they just don't cope very well with the kettle method and obvisly not designed to work in such a scenario. Still, I feel the setup with the Backer ones is a bit safer as they operate at a lower temp (if needed) and the safety cut off is also slightly lower than the Tesla ones. NEXT QUESTION: Should I still add inhibitor to the whole system? I've just flushed it all through (inc loops) with softened water. I do recall reading somewhere that 100% softened water 'may not be best' but can't find the reference now.
  9. I'll get the Backer one this morning and see if it actually limits the temp but I suspect with limited water, it will also overshoot. Just note that the Tesla 225 in the heater is 11" long. So best replace like for like and get this one even though it's for a 88" immersion?
  10. I think it works fine. I may get another one today but I expect it would do the same - ie easily overshoot the target temp in a static low volume water. The one that they come with are Tesla UK ones TS225 https://www.unventedcomponentseurope.com/tesla-11-control-high-limit-rod-thermostat-for-immersion-heaters-dual-thermostat.html which operates up to "give a water temperature of approx 60oC" as per supplied generic instructions (though the model fitted is 25-70oC). But yeah 15°c to 65°c would be better for UFH. Just tested it in 600ml of water Terry! No circulation. Not connected to anything.
  11. Will do that in the morning when I will have multimeter. What I did do today was to rig up a sole heater and had it set to 25oC. It soon shot up to 60oC and the safety cut out activated. Why did it not heat to only circa 25oC? Well I guess as there was no flow at all and these things are set up to operate with a minimum flow rate there was no way to regulate the temp with just 600ml water. At least I know the safety cut off works! No, there's no 'space' on the manifold for a return thermometer at the moment, so I'm planning to 'open' up one of the bars and put the pressure gauge there and place a thermometer in its place. Water was circulating as the floors were warm. I think it's down to having very hard water (380ppm) and that when I added the inhibitor it didn't distribute through the system sufficiently so may have been getting pockets of pure hard water hitting the elements. I also think the flow rate is too low through the heaters and not being mixed into the UFH manifold sufficiently which would explain the 4.5oC temp difference between manifold and heaters. Tomorrow I'll add the pump and will add some more inhibitor (sentinel x100) into the system and let it distribute for an hour or so before I turn on the heaters.
  12. Better late than never! Thanks for the input. Similar to my one loop system too then (except for PHE and distance between the heaters and manifold (1.6m iirc). I have 18L expansion vessel. 1150m (130L) of wunda pipe but currently only heating 800m (90.4L) as one side of the house is not used/finished so 4 loops in the 12 port manifold are shut. Yes, my setup is entirely manual for now so I'm reliant on the temp setting on the heaters themselves and the manifold TMV. I keep the door open to the 'plant room' so I'm in the habit of checking the temps on the heater outlet pipe and the manifold temp. Not an ideal setup but the plan is to put some controls into the system when I have the time. The Willis' are set now set to around 30oC but are still hissing. I have experimented with the manifold TMV set to fully open and fully closed (well to 30oC setting at least as its range is 30-70oC). Not sure whether it works! So in any case, the heaters are still hissing. I may not have let the inhibitor blend sufficiently into all the loops before I turned on the heaters and now they are partially scaled up again so hiss as soon as i turn them on. May also be worth checking the water hardness in the system? I'm in a very hard area! So perhaps worth taking the bugger's out again and cleaning them up one more time. Then re-insert and make sure manifold TMV is fully open. If they start hissing again, then either the TMV is just causing it to loop round the Willis circuit (faulty TMV?) or there is not sufficient flow and I need to add that pump. I think the temp gauges aren't accurate either (they are different types (one on left has thermometer type rod that's inserted into the pipe fitting (but I suspect that bit of upright pipe has an air pocket)). The one on the right is a clip on type and gives a different reading depending if it's on top of the pipe or the side. 7 And then the Wunda thermometer is also a push in one and I don't know their accuracy, but think the same as yours: . What digital thermostats do you use @TerryE? Ideally I'd need something a bit more accurate as well as something to measure the return flow. And one day be nice if i could all have it logged like you do Terry! I don't have it on for more than a few hours at a time, usually 4hrs. The rooms get sufficiently warm (20oC which is fine for me but perhaps not the wife). But yes, I currently have the TMV on full whack (which would permit heat of 70c into the slab) but manifold indicates 28.5. I tried different temp settings on the manifold TMV this afternoon so expected to see a decrease in the manifold temp and increase in the Willis loop (as I reduced the manifold temp setting): So is my manifold buggered? Have I assembled it wrong? Could there be a blockage? Or perhaps there isn't sufficient flow into the TMV and that's why there is no discernible difference in the temps? Worth getting one of these infra-red temp readers (https://www.toolstation.com/draper-infrared-thermometer/p94325)to re-check accuracy of temps? Can't fit the pump or create a separate hydraulic loop for the Willis heaters as SF still haven't delivered my parts so won't take TMV off until I have all parts present!
  13. Yes, Youtube showed me that vid the other week too. Looks like an easy system, but I expect that easiness comes with a price tag for any Lego enthusiastic builder. I imagine also more cold bridges with these small blocks than conventional SIPs.
  14. Thanks for the offer. I got some distilled vinegar and that seems to have done the job nicely: After Yes, thanks. I had already purchased from TS as I find the cheaper in 90% of cases. Bought the more expensive version, but not sure what benefit that gives me really. Yes I added some but no room anymore for a mag filter. So with the fact that ScrewFix didn't have any Tectite push fittings and the fact that the family started moaning about no heating on Saturday I re-inserted the cleaned Willis heaters into the original configuration without new pump. They soon started hisssssssssssssssing again which surprised me as they were fine for many months originally. I could have used compression fittings but as it's such a tight fit and the flexi's to the manifold are at different angles and aren't flat to the wall, I splashed the cash for the Tectite fittings (not read great stuff about the Connex fittings from TS. Can't solder in that confined space with the plastic pipe and compressions will keep twisting elsewhere when I make any adjustments I suspect. Anyway, when I get all my fittings from SF I will do as prescribed by @Nickfromwales et al and hope it all behaves again.
  15. It's from a local water softener company, so not even sure it works as it was from a used unit. I may actually try it to see if it works on my unit and resolves the drip issue I have. If it doesn't I'm happy to post it to you. I may bit the bullet and get a new unit all together. Maybe Paul can give us a group discount! 😃