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  1. I have cemfloor floor screed with ufh, it doesn't appear to give off much dust. We are hoping to move in shortly with lots of uncovered floor and I don't want extra dust. What can I seal the floor with that won't be detrimental to future tiling or wooden flooring being laid? I have been told to avoid the traditional PVA as it will crack and peel off with ufh, not sure if this is true. Thanks in advance, can't actually believe I have just typed the words "move in shortly"
  2. So I have stripped out all the existing pipework, back to the incoming main, on my major renovation extension. I have an overall concept of what I am trying to do gleaned from reading this forum, but have many questions! Trying to make sure I am on the right track before buying all the kit. I have three bedrooms all with ensuite WC, basin and shower, one has a bath. Heating is UFH on ground and lower ground floor, radiator in each bedroom, and towel rail/radiator in each ensuite/bathroom. Downstairs also has a bathroom with shower, WC, basin. I have mains gas. so the concept is to have a new gas system boiler, an unvented cylinder and run UFH, heating and hot water, all from the tank. Is this how it works? The tank I am looking at is from AVC, and is a tank in tank system, so using the primary heating water as a buffer for the UFH and radiators. Using Hep20 from a manifold for hot and cold water, and run the upstairs radiators from another manifold upstairs. I know I need a double check valve and stop cock on the incoming main, and a PRV before the tank, the tank comes with a mixer valve. After that I am not sure what I need I have seen some on here use one large, valved, brass Hep20 manifold say in the utility room next to the boiler and tank, to feed everything, others have used sub manifolds for each room, using the much cheaper, plastic, non valved Hep20 manifolds. Is this purely to save money, I like the idea of being able to turn off individual consumers from the manifold, but unsure in real life how often this could happen, cost difference is considerable, but then it is a one off cost. Control wise I am planning on using Heatmiser Neo thermostats on each zone, and a Neohub and their wiring centre for the UFH and also for the radiator manifold circuits. Boiler was looking at Veissman Vitodan 200 series but unsure on sizing, these are available with weather compensation, but will this work with Heatmiser, how do they talk to each other? Was trying to find modulating thermostats but Heatmiser don't offer them. Also unsure on UVC sizing, as it appears I could run a smaller tank, 210 litres, if I have a large enough output boiler to reheat it fast enough, or is it better to have a larger tank, 300 litres and a smaller boiler, also have a solar array of 3.7KW so was hoping to use a diverter to an immersion in the tank for all excess solar. I apologise for so many questions, but feeling a bit overwhelmed by everything.
  3. Grateful for advice on the following. I'm doing a self build in the Stirling area. Its a five bed property (180m2 in total) with ufh downstairs (120m2) including three bedrooms downstairs and two bedrooms upstairs with rads. One bathroom and three en-suites in total. I was hoping for some advice on boiler and UVC sizing? We will be required to install PVs so I'm also wondering what issues to consider in terms of integrating it with the heating system/hot water? Looking for the most cost effective option. I did consider ASHP but have decided to opt for LPG and PVs. Any pointers much appreciated.
  4. After various delays, the time has come to get some heat into the house, and as there have been a few on BH that have gone down the route of Willis, thought I would give it a go as well. Hopefully others will find the blog entry also. Background: Renovated (3G passiv-rated windows, 120mm EPS EWI, 400mm loft insul, MVHR - not tested air leakiness yet) / extended (175mm SIPs) south facing detached house, East Kent 156sqm of wet UFH in 100mm concrete (with circa 300-375mm EPS insulation) 130L in UFH Wunda 12 port manifold (The heating valve on the manifold operates in the range of 30-70oC) Wunda wired room thermostats for each room (but probably won't use for this temporary setup now) 12Kw eDual for DHW (not to be included as part of Willis setup) 12Kw Sunamp for DHW/UFH (not to be included as part of Willis setup) 3.8Kw PV (potentially have further DIY grid implemented later on) Not looking to cater for worst case low temps as at these times will just plug in some extra heaters: I originally ordered 2x 12Kw heat batteries for DHW and UFH. Total reliance on the PV in summer and then off-peak grid in the winter. An all electric approach initially without ASHP. Not keen to spend £8-10k on an MCS installed heat pump to get back an estimated / possible £8-10k. Installers seem very vague on the RHI returns and if I have read correctly, I will have to be metered in order to qualify in any case (as have not lived in the property previously). Since the house will be far above buildreg stds (but below PH level), I simply won't be using the amount of expected input that the installers calculate - hence I won't be getting back the cost of the ASHP supply and fit install. So most likely won't go down the MCS route, and if I were to install an ASHP, it would be a cheapy from fleabay. Having excluded using an ASHP, I learnt that Sunamp were testing various units late 2019. But typically with Sunamp, after continued confusion on their part as to what ASHPs they may have tested/not tested/will be testing soon, I've made the decision that I can't want any longer on their input. So for now I will leave the ASHP option until later on and perhaps consider a propane unit (e.g. Vaillant ) when they come online on a non-RHI basis if I can get a decent install cost. Willis Heater approach So therefore looking to heat the UFH with 2x 3Kw willis heaters in order to progress with the internal house work. Thought I'd add some info on here as a lot of people like myself aren't familiar what they are. They originated out of Ireland and still much in use over there. They're essentially external immersion coils and instead of sitting inside a tank are simple external electric units - AKA "Willis jacket", "standard sleeved immersion heater"," inline electric heater". Googling should get you something like this: Item Weight 1.15 Kg Product Dimensions 30 x 9 x 9 cm I have tried to get plumbers interested in rigging this up, but they're either not interested or have told me it's not possible/don;t know what a willis heater is. I've managed to plumb in all the Hep2o in the house, so hopefully this won't be too much of a bodge. @TerryE has kindly discussed his set up which is pretty impressive with his DS18B20s set into the walls etc. I'm no programmer and my javscript is mainly simple web stuff and wanting to get heat into the place ASAP, I just want a KISS approach for now. Perhaps later I will think about having some of it programmed using Terry's Node Red option which makes for interesting possibilities. Get a feel for Terry's approach here: But as I've said, I'm after a bog standard dummies approach to this - seriously KISS: So rather than wiring up room thermostats to the wiring centre, I will for now simply use the Willis inbuilt thermostat and set that to gradual increasing temps from 10oC up to a max of 25oC. A gradual heat increase seems safer in my mind. My only concern is if the Willis thermostat fails and carries on beyond 25oC - up to max temp. Obviously I will have the manifold mixing/blending valve that should restrict temp flow into the UFH also, but is there a further failsafe to consider? Dummies layout. Eventual Sunamp units (for DHW) will be located on left of manifold so having to locate Willis heaters to right and expansion vessel top right: FYI: The immersions need to be turned the other way (so colder water enters the side) Parts list: 15mm copper pipe. The Willis heaters are 15mm so I presume plumbing them into the manifold with 15mm would be okay? 15mm plastic pipe for cold return should suffice I presume? Bottle vents - automatically release any trapped air (like this one). Do I need any and if so where do I place them? Willis heater (ebay has the cheapest) Expansion vessel - 8litres sufficient for total UFH volume of 130L? (like this one) 20A DP switch outlet (for each willis) from a 16A MCB (like this one) . Probably one for each willis Immersion timer (like this one) to be added possibly when I change over to E7 low tarriff rates Will get an electrician to wire it all in for me! Be grateful for comments, suggestions and any answers to above questions! FYI: I'm no way the first person to install a Willis, so here's a list of other users on BH that have gone the Willis way and will know more than I do: @dpmiller: photo / details here @TerryE @vivienz @CC45 @chrisb here @Gav_P - here (Any pics?) Willis instructions: schematic
  5. I seem to have what must be a common problem when using underfloor heating with a boiler however I haven’t managed to find a standard solution online. The boiler cycles at a high frequency due to the difference in boiler power compared to what the underfloor heating manifold will accept. Setup (underfloor heating recently added by local plumber) – see image below Worcester Greenstar Highflow 440CDI combi boiler (Central heating power of ~29kW down to ~7.6kW) Radiators upstairs with separate thermostat and actuated valve on the CH flow. Underfloor heating downstairs with separate thermostat and actuated valve on the CH flow. Manifold including recirculation pump and mixer valve to maintain the inlet manifold temperature at ~40C. " class="bbCodeImage LbImage" alt="" data-url="http://<a href=""><img src="" alt="UFH-current" border="0"></a>" /> Issue The Combi boiler cannot modulate low enough when running the underfloor heating on it’s own therefore it cycles frequently on and off. At a high level, The thermostatic valve on the underfloor heating manifold gets close to the required temperature and throttles flow from the boiler. Boiler flow then bypasses the manifold through the pressure relief circuit and causes the boiler flame to turn off. The flow temperature drops The thermostatic valve on the underfloor heating manifold then starts to open because it’s not getting heat, pulling in cool flow and opening more and more. The boiler restarts when it’s anti cycling timer or temperature limits have been reached and quickly exceeds the underfloor heating thermostatic control valve temperature so the process restarts. If the anti cycle timer is put to it’s minimum of 1 minute, the boiler will run for 1 minute and turn off for one minute (the run time will further reduce when the underfloor heating gets up to temperature). At this frequency the flow temperature remains above the temperature setting of the underfloor heating thermostatic valve so the underfloor is happy. I assume that this boiler operation isn’t efficient and I doubt it’s doing the boiler any favours? When the radiators are operated concurrently with the underfloor heating the CH flow temperature remain stable and the system works nicely. Variables currently available in the system Boiler cycle time or temperature limit, currently 1 minute – If this is increased above 1 minute the underfloor manifold pulls in low temperature water as it cycles and therefore takes a long time to heat up. CH flow temperature, currently 60C – If this is increased it takes a little longer for the boiler to achieve the temperature however an increase of 10C only added 25s to the cycle time (by the time the high temperatures are achieved the boiler is mostly short circuiting around the bypass). Boiler pump speed, currently set to three – Assume a reduction would result in higher temperatures (lower flowrate with the same burner rate?) may also impact on the boiler/radiator operation? Boiler pump operation modes – Don’t know enough Underfloor heating pump speed, currently set to three – Don’t think this will have a significant affect. Underfloor heating thermostatic valve, currently 40C – Increasing this temperature risks overheating the engineered wood flooring. Next steps – help please! Is it a problem to leave the boiler cycling so frequently (1 min on then 1 min off)? Can any of the existing settings be adjusted to help? If current operation is a problem the only significant improvement I can think of is to add thermal mass between the boiler and underfloor heating manifold as follows (see image), any tips on these or is there a better alternative? a. Add pressurised tank (are these referred to as heat banks/or thermal stores?) upstream of the underfloor heating bypass loop. b. Draw the underfloor heating flow through the heat store in the boiler. This is the wild card option and I don’t like it because a connection would need to be made within the boiler (although it is accessible) and there may be an unforeseen impact on the hot water supply. I’ve mentioned it because it wouldn’t require another tank to locate, continually heat or pay for! " class="bbCodeImage LbImage" alt="" data-url="http://<a href=""><img src="" alt="UFH-options" border="0"></a>" />
  6. Hi I've just joined the forum. I live in Southport Merseyside. My main hobbies are Digital Photography & Formula 1. (watching). Back in November 2019 we moved into a 5 year old apartment with water based UFH. From day 1 we experience problems with pressure loss from the Worcester Bosch Greenstar 32 compact boiler, constant running of the system at night, 4 visits from WB claiming there was nothing wrong with the boiler, yet twice they re-pressurised the expansion tank, replaced it & the PRV. The system has a mixture Heatmiser & Maincor components, 2 of each thermostats, Maincor Programmer, Heatmiser UH3 wiring centre. In my working life I was a Project Manager for a refrigeration cabinet manufacturer, handling projects for national end users such as M&S, Morrisons, Asda, Macdonalds, the list goes on, I'm leading up to saying I do know something about air conditioning heating & ventilation. I think that's enough abut me, back to the problem with the apartment. Following numerous visits by the agent, his plumber, electrician & WB, the agent is trying to persuade me to set the boiler outlet temperature above 65C, which it has been set at since we moved in. Set the thermostats on the "set back" position on the 3 position switch. Having scoured the'net I discovered BS EN 1264 which reading between the lines says that Water based UFH systems with screed covered pipes should not exceed 65C at the boiler outlet, 5C lower in the EU version. Can anyone confirm what I think or throw any light on the necessity to increase boiler outlet temperatures over 65C Thank you in anticipation.
  7. I am a fan of flexibility, having options, and for simplicity. When I build my new house I plan to include the wiring and pipes for both an ASHP and gas boiler. To go with the ASHP, I will also include UFH piping in my reinforced concrete raft foundation. Installing all the options at the time of the build costs peanuts. But how about adding one more cheap option: from a capital cost perspective, the cheapest of all. When I pour my my raft foundation, why don't I also include some electrical heating wire too embedded deep within the concrete? From checking on eBay, the cost of loose heating wire seems to be about £150 for 2kW. £150 really is peanuts! And it beats even a Willis heater for simplicity. Wet UFH after all needs a manifold, a pump, regulators, etc. While I would still have all the other options available later, I could use the wire heating for the first couple of years while I learn how my new house responds. What does everyone think? Bad idea?
  8. We have wet UFH (in the bathrooms) in a Passive house and wonder whether I need electric UFH in the two downstairs bathrooms? Reason being we will probably do the chunk of the wet UFH in the night if we go down the Willis heater route so there will be no form of drying the floor when we shower although I have no experience of how the slab will work when we eventually get in!! The showers are wet room type and measure 1.9m x 0.9m with a glass screen measuring 1.3m wide and 2.0m high but I fear we will have water getting outside the wet zone and do I need to be thinking of drying it by some other means? We obviously have MVHR so not so sure how effective this will be at drying out the rooms but do people think it is worth putting an electric mat in place? TIA
  9. My upper floor, that is. Due to the vast number of MBC guys on site early last week, my upstairs was ready for the underfloor heating pipes and spreader plates to go in much earlier than my plumber had anticipated so the plates were duly put in. MBC were due back on site this morning to get the egger boards down on the first floor, so it was a case of then or never. The downstairs UFH pipes are embedded into the concrete slab and so a different method is needed for the upstairs, and this is it. What you are looking at are aluminium spreader plates with the UFH pipe bedded into them. The spreader plates are thin sheets of aluminium with two semi-circular recesses running the length of the plates. These are stapled to the joists along their length and their job is to hold the pipe in place and also to diffuse the heat over their area. The plates are very thin, barely a couple of mm thick, I would say, and very sharp, as I found out when poking the corner of them all stacked up in the shrink wrap packaging when they first arrived. Here's what they look like individually: There were a couple of delays in getting started on Friday and as a consequence work went on till well into the evening. UFH by sunset: After some hard graft on Saturday, it was all in place and the manifold had been attached, pressurised and tested and all looks good. Once all the egger boards are on, the centres of the spreader plates should be stapled along their lengths to the boards above to ensure good contact and heat transfer, although this was overlooked and not done but not picked up on in time to be rectified before the flooring went down on top. I did not sit idly by whilst all this effort was going on, oh no, not me. I had some very important decisions to make and these took a high level of innovation and imagination. Like, where's the best spot for the furniture in the to-be living room and where do I prefer the view? Really important. And, it turns out, that off-cuts of EPS upstand make for a really good improvised sofa. To be seen in all the best furniture showrooms soon: Having tried this, I came to a very meaningful conclusion. I need more furniture. Another thing for another day. Back to business, MBC were back on site today, a team of 4 to put the egger boards in place. You can see from the spreader plate pictures above that there is virtually no joist exposed, hence the need for screwing them down, particularly as the spreader plates will need to be attached from them underneath. The guys also used the egger adhesive along the tongue and groove runs of the board sides. Being a complete ingenue when it comes to all matters of construction, I was pondering last week what the purpose was of the hefty blocks of wood set into the recesses of the I shaped steels. Today, I found out. The posi-joists don't just rest in place, they are very firmly attached using steel thingies called roof hangers. These are they: And this is where they go: On other matters, I'm busily chasing down roofers at the moment, and they are proving difficult to get hold of. One has already declined to quote because they are so busy, but I'm working through a list of possibles, so it will get done. I've also booked in for my service alteration on the electricity - it's on a pole via an overhead line right now but will be buried eventually and the pole removed. Current date for this is 17th October, but electricity companies dance to the beat of their own drum so this could easily change. It's the big stuff back tomorrow with the final frame delivery and the upper floor being constructed. Sit tight for the next thrilling episode!
  10. At the suggestion of Alphonsox, I've been reading the descriptions of UFH systems heated by a willis heater. I'm seriously considering using one in our barn conversion in place of the intended wood burner. However, willis heaters appear to be only for vented systems and I'd rather have unvented for ease of install. How have people dealt with this?
  11. Hi I've recently purchased a 1bed "colony" house in Edinburgh. For those unfamiliar with colony houses, these were homes built throughout Victorian Edinburgh and were designed as homes for the skilled working class, more details about them here if you are interested. Mine is a 1 bed ground floor, 45sqm altogether, with a small front and back garden. It's currently fitted with electric storage heating that I am hoping to remove and replace with a small air source heat pump and install underfloor heating throughout. I found this forum through my ASHP researching and have found it really useful so far. I also want to change the internal layout, so the largest rooms are for the kitchen and living room. I wish to move the bathroom to the opposite side of the house and turn the current kitchen (small, narrow) to a very small double bedroom! This requires a couple of walls knocking down and rebuilt. I won't have the keys to the property until late November so works can't start yet but I'm trying to do as much research before then. Thanks all, looking forward to asking lots of questions as I have them...!
  12. Once again, a bit lost here. As far as I understand the "best" or typical setup on a block and beam floor with ufh is something like this : With from bottom to top : -block and beam floor (or in my case, beam and insulation)) -top layer of insualtion -damp proof membrane -ufh pipes tacked into the dpm -top screed This will lead to the ufh pipes being stapled through the dpm like this : Isn't this a bit of a problem? Piercing the membrane. And generally, I'm a bit in the dark about the different membranes (dpm, dpc, vcl, radon barrier) in the floor. I do understand how a wall setup works, and no problem with a roof, but just struggling with the floor membrane locations.
  13. Our ensuite has a wet room former and setcrete latex self levelling elsewhere over UFH. I've tanked the former and surrounding area as per @Nickfromwales excellent tanking thread and I'm now waiting for it to dry. Question is should I use primer on the tanked area and the latex before tiling and if so any particular one? I've quite a lot of the setcrete acrylic primer left if its any use? SBR? Thanks
  14. Hi everyone. New to the group and was hoping for some advise. I have a JG underfloor heating system installed under my kitchen and through to a downstairs toilet where the pump and manifold are fitted. In the loft above the toilet run the 25mm flow and return direct from the boiler. Can I tee into these to supply the ufh? I have a cable run in from this (ufh thermostat)to the controller in the airing cupboard which I was hoping to link across the heating switch?? Sorry if this is vague or my terminology is not very good. Any advise appreciated. Thanks in advance
  15. Hi everyone. New to the group and was hoping for some advise. I have a JG underfloor heating system installed under my kitchen and through to a downstairs toilet where the pump and manifold are fitted. In the loft above the toilet run the 25mm flow and return direct from the boiler. Can I tee into these to supply the ufh? I have a cable run in from this (ufh thermostat)to the controller in the airing cupboard which I was hoping to link across the heating switch?? Sorry if this is vague or my terminology is not very good. Any advise appreciated. Thanks in advance
  16. Has anybody used these adaptors as I need to use some to rig up a test kit for my UFH and they do not sell the inserts separately?I only need two but have 10 pipes to test and have not connected the manifold yet as not sure of final height position so would like to test the pipes now. When I have looked at them I think you would be able to re-use them instead of having to buy quite a few as the 16mm end that goes onto the UFH pipe has a bit that inserts in the pipe with a split olive on the outside and then the securing nut.TIA
  17. I need to do an air test on one leg of my UFH as the timber frame installer decided to drill in a doorway when fitting the internal wall soleplate. The question is will an air test work to find if there is a leak now the pipe has been encased in concrete for over 12 months or will it be better to do a wet test to see if a wet patch develops? Hope this is not to silly a question!
  18. Hello all. I am currently awaiting planning permission on a new build in Derbyshire, trying to make some decisions on my heating source and emitters, and how it works with MVHR. I'm looking for a sensible, economical solution but will pay a bit more for a clear benefit. I intend to move out of the house in 5-10 years so can't entertain anything with long payback periods. Plans are attached to hopefully give context. Intended build method is ICF, so the walls will have a u-value of 0.19. Likely to have either block and beam (maybe Tetris), or a concrete slab ground floor. Upstairs will be a suspended timber floor. Heating source - I'm guessing with gas (in the road but would need to make a connection) I'd be silly not to get a gas boiler? Or would an ASHP still be a sensible option to investigate? Heating emitters - With a solid floor, would UFH be an obvious choice for downstairs? For upstairs I've looked at Omnie TorFloor and Pug Screed, otherwise just radiators? Is forced air another option worth investigating? MVHR - it would seem this is an obvious thing to have on a new build? Should I look at an inline heat pump with this to provide some additional heating and cooling, or is this not really worth it? Be glad of any advice. Thanks! 19-003-20-E Proposed Floor Plans-[A1].pdf 19-003-21-B_Proposed_Elevations-[A1].pdf 19-003-22-B Proposed Section A-A-[A1].pdf
  19. Because of our budget, there's some hard decisions and trade-offs to be made. Grateful for any constructive comments! Remaining garage size It's a double-length garage - 9m. We could just convert half of it, leaving the front part as a regular-sized garage, but that will leave us tight on space. Instead we're leaning towards taking around 5.5m, making the front part just a workshop and store (and hopefully, micro-brewery 🙂. Floor will be raised by 100mm using PIR with 18mm chipboard on top, and external walls with timber frame and PIR. Roof to be raised by our tame builder. Shower location Due to the 3-gabled chalet roof, there's not many places where a shower can be put upstairs. There's no scope for an en-suite that we can see (unless we shelled out for a dormer, which is likely to be beyond our budget). The only option for an upstairs shower seems to be to move the bathroom wall into the 3rd bedroom, making it smaller still. The other option is to have a downstairs shower room in the garage, but that's then eating into kitchen/dining room space. Kitchen/dining room configuration The existing kitchen is long and narrow, but we aim to widen the room by taking out the built-in cupboards and moving the door back slighting into the hallway We'll then knock through the current utility room The new space is actually larger than the existing kitchen. Do we move the kitchen into the new space and have the dining room where the kitchen is? Could seem a little odd to walk through the dining room to the kitchen, plus we'd have to install a new kitchen pronto as we'd be wrecking the orginal (and that's not in our short-term budget) Would like big (possibly 4m, 5 door) bi-folds onto garden, and a big (3m x 1.5m) roof lantern in new converted space on flat garage roof. Lowest u-values we can afford. Leaning towards keeping the kitchen location where it is, sink relocated to window, and with a small utility room in old garage space Insulation Uninsulated concrete ground floor - which might be tricky to raise and too expensive to lower for insulation. VIPs too expensive to do throughout (but considering 10mm for kitchen) Cavity walls are already insulated Roof insulation needs topping up, and lap vents installing in roof fabric Heating and hot water Existing system is warm air, with electric immersion and cylinder for hot water. Boiler replaced within last 12 months, but the system can't easily be extended into the new conversion space. So we'd need a combi-boiler just for the conversion. Floor drop in garage isn't enough for the insulation that would be recommended for UFH House isn't well-enough insulated for ASHP As a result we're leaning strongly towards simply a new modern combi-boiler and wet rads throughout
  20. In the parents new wet room (the foundations are being done tomorrow), we shall have a concrete floor over insulation. As its for elderly folks who feel the cold, I need to make sure the room is warm enough for them. We only have electric in the bungalow and no central heating (its a warm air system). So my plan is electric mat UFH, tiling over it, and an electric heated towel rail on a timer to come on in the morning about an hour before they have a shower. I am looking at the following for the UFH. the room is 2.7m by 1.8m with units along one wall so am looking at a system to cover about 3.5m2. But Dad is worried about the cost of running it. What can I tell him? Presumably it only heats when it needs to come up to temperature so it will not be on all the time. Any advice welcome!
  21. I have posted previously about some design questions here I have settled on a thermal store with 2 ufh manifolds and a radiator circuit. Looking some direction on my thoughts of how to connect this all to thermal store. - Boiler connected via 2 port valve controlled by tank stats. 2 tank stats controlled via time clock one for summer (no ufh demand) one for winter. - UFH zones and rads off a single tapping from thermal store, or should I separate rads to their own tapping? Either way each will have a 2 port valve. - UFH pumps connected via the switched live from the zone valves, think I seen @Nickfromwales recommend this previously. - Rads will be controlled from time clock and 2 port valve triggering their own pump. Is this correct? Should I do it different, I don't mean ashp instead of boiler? Have I missed anything? As always thanks in advance.
  22. I am annoyed this morning. Once again my washing-up water - the first hot water I have used in the kitchen today - is running warm then cold then hot. And the cold water is running warm then cold. This probably means that the last people, who renovated the house, did not insulate the water pipes where they pass through the zone where there is underfloor heating, and the water standing in the pipes has heated up. A small annoyance due to lack of sweat applied to the detail. But one that is noticeable and about which I can do nothing practically. Boo !
  23. Hi all, I am just completing a conversion but hired professionals for UFL. What I find strange is that the manifold (RED) is in the kitchen, and all sections (4 excluding kitchen) go through the kitchen floor and not through the staircase (behind the kitchen) and therefore leaving the potential to overheat the kitchen, when all areas are on and kitchen is already at temperature. Should't they have taken into consideration that the kitchen is potentially the warmest place in the house and it will become a potential sauna? Also the Manifold is right behind the oven and stove. Can I should I insulate the pipes from the screed? Will lay down normal sand+cement screed... Any pointers really appreciated. Thanks
  24. I was just lloking into the different systems available for heating/Hot water. Some Great systems are used by the members on here and I am tempted to use a Genvex Combi like @PeterStarck as it seems amazing logical to combine it all with the MVHR. However, i just found this : It seems an incredible good system, even though not including the MVHR , but still a very good, space saving method which seems easy to use/install. Website is in Norge so anybody wanting a look might need to look at their NZ distributor as I couldn t find UK or even US website Anybody on here ever looked into this? Is it a good system, or not really worth the trouble ordering from Norway as similar exists in the uk(which ones>? )
  25. Hi, I'm new to this forum and would be grateful if someone has any advice regarding the following. We are currently building a small kitchen/diner extension and I have underfloor heating planned for it. We are tight for space so am thinking of putting the manifold in the pantry cupboard I'm planning on putting in the corner. My question is: Do manifolds give out much heat? I ask because our condenser boiler feels cool to touch when it's on. Can the manifold be adequately boxed in with insulation (but also accessible) that it doesn’t give off heat if its put in the pantry? Thanks