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  1. My Kitchen drawer slides have fallen apart and the ball bearings have rolled out everywhere. I don't know what these types of slides are called and struggling to do a Google search to find a replacement, can you help? The drawers have a groove in a plastic pocket (pic enclosed from the back). The slides are not fixed to the drawer, but the drawer has a little button on the side to unlock and remove the drawer. The slides are side-mounted, but they have what seems to be an unusual plate that attaches to the cupboard. The left rail attached to the cupboard is significantly longer (full depth) than the right side one, which is only 2/3 of the length. See pix encl. Inside and in between the 2 metal slides are the metal ball bearings, which are on a little plastic train, but I guess it doesn't matter what material that's made of in the future. I don't know whether I can keep the rails in the cupboard and only replace the slides, or replace the full sliding mechanism. Obvs. because of how the drawer is constructed, I have constraints. Thank you for any pointers!
  2. Could someone please help me identify this noise? After I bought a second floor new build flat from Bewley Homes UK in 2022, there has intermittently been a snapping/clapping sound. The noise happens all year round. We have done the basic tests i.e run taps etc. It has been really hard to pin point where the noise is coming from but I believe it’s from the ceiling or wall in the open plan kitchen/living room. The recordings below are over a 7 hour period at night.
  3. I’m looking to install herringbone LVT click flooring. How do I fit it under these decor pieces that go to the floor? My kitchen fitter has installed them to a height so they will land sitting on the finished flooring (so I’ll be working with a gap of 5.5mm underneath once I remove the existing laminate floor). DIY job or PRO?
  4. Yet another chapter of my house adventures! The place I've got has a smallish galley kitchen (225cmx405cm, before insulation). It was set up in 2015, with medium-range furniture that my girlfriend rather likes though the architect does not. (It's Mobalpa - the sort of thing that is (I believe) quite a lot more expensive than IKEA without being twice as good; it's not solid wood. The counter is some sort of sturdy black laminate - thank goodness, as I am largely the one who cooks, and I can be messy, apparently, or so have I had it screamed at me. I most definitely do not want to prepare food near somebody else's granite countertop ever again.) Our original intention was not to touch the kitchen, and to insulate the floor from below (it's right above a coop corridor). However, the walls were uninsulated, and the architect was particularly concerned about the overall soundproofing of the streetside wall being compromised if the part corresponding to the kitchen wasn't. So, in the end, the workmen carefully took the kitchen apart - and noticed the long wall was in rather poor condition; we will insulate it after all. In the process, they also had to destroy the current floor - a good thing, since it was vinyl poorly laid on damaged old tile. I will spare you all the things I have been told about how anything I could do to the kitchen decor can only make it worse - I will probably just (a) raise the cabinets and (b) install some extra shelving on the other side. The question now is: given that I have the freedom whether to put the insulation under the floor rather than on the corridor ceiling, what should I do?For that matter: given that I'll get a reversible heat pump, does it make sense to get under-floor heating that can be used also for cooling? That would free up space currently used by a radiator. Or is getting UFH in only one room impossible/too expensive? Or unfeasible (in that it would necessarily create a height difference - though we would presumably insulate the corridor ceiling, as originally planned, as opposed to insulate above)? If we do put in UFH, what we should put above it - synthetic flooring, since it is thinner? I include both the floorplan and an image of the kitchen before renovation.
  5. Open plan kitchen. How could I reduce the noise of fridge freezer's compressor (while keeping the back of the fridge ventilated of course)? Ideas: A short stud wall section beside the fridge freezer? Sound-absorbent foam behind Any better ideas? (By the way, ignore the kitchen design. Its just a rough draft.)
  6. Hello, found my way here after searching for info on upgrading water mains as part of a family home renovation. I find it difficult to get builders/trade around for quotes and when they do turn up, they don't bother doing the quote. In 5 weeks I've had 1 quote, from the first builder that turned up, it's like pulling teeth, many can't be bothered. Not sure why. I've got planning permission, I've got drawings, I know what I want for most things. I've got a garage conversion, kitchen and bathroom refit. I'll probably have the heating upgraded too. Much be some profit there for someone. Anyway, this isn't supposed to be a rant.
  7. I'm renovating an old cottage with ragstone dividing wall to next house. There's no evident damp or humidity problem. The walls are built with lime mortar joints and what's close to mud internally (?) I'm thinking of lining the internal kitchen wall with OSB so that I have better fixing for wall cupboards. Any advice welcome - should I put a vapour barrier behind.
  8. I'm planning to buy myself a couple of bar stools for the kitchen for Christmas, and I wondered if anyone had recommendations? The kitchen is dark grey textured worktops and off white cupboard doors. The two priorities are "comfortable to sit on", and "robust". In the absence of a better choice, I might go for iKea Franklyn as I have these in a student house and they fold up, but are also *very* solid. https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/franklin-bar-stool-with-backrest-foldable-black-black-50406465/ A more recent design may be preferable. Ferdinand
  9. Hello there What is standard as included within a "dry fit" installation? In particular, whose responsibility is it to fit the taps? Background is that we used a separation kitchen supplier from the main contractor we used for the rest of our major renovation (they obviously hate each other); however, the kitchen supplier only offer a "dry fit" installation, and so we paid our main contractor to do all the kitchen connections. There is now a dispute over whose responsibility it is to install the tap - each says it's the other's responsibility: contractor says they are only responsible for the plumbing (which they did), and kitchen fitter says they are not qualified to do anything touching the plumbing. Ideally it be great if I could point to whatever the industry standard is. (As a layman, I can see how it might be either way.) To complicate matters, the tap we wanted arrived after the kitchen was installed, so the kitchen fitters are no longer on site. Thanks!
  10. We purchased a kitchen - oops! I've been set on handless, but haven't been keen on the J handles I'd seen and I wanted a mixture of wood handleless and another colour though the other half wasn't keen on handleless. I had in my head orange but I couldn't quite get the shade I wanted without customising it (so decided something neutral and paint the walls would be cheaper) and then DIY kitchens didn't do wood effect handleless although the quality of the base units was better than some we had seen. We had seen a couple on the used kitchen site recommended on here, mainly German kitchens and then we saw one eBay as part of the Cucina Colore collection https://mereway.co.uk/kitchens/cucina-colore-collection/ which was advertised with a cost price of £21k which I take with a pinch of salt) and a mix of both handles and handleless which pleased the other half. We knew it had the ovens, hob and sink/tap but didn't know much about the quality so went to the showroom. We were both impressed with the quality, seemed better than DIY kitchens and surprised to find it actually included all Siemens integrated appliances, which includes two ovens (one a steam oven), coffee machine, tall fridge, dishwasher and hob. And then to top it all a Quooker tap and boiler as well, none of which had they advertised! I was mentally trying to tally up the cost of the appliances not to mention the fancy metal pull out bits and bobs in the units and cupboard accessories. Agreeing they would dismantle and then we can inspect again and check they haven't damaged anything (and they will replace anything they do damage), and store and deliver it too, price negotiation started. The other half again was cringing. Have to say, very pleased with the final result! We need to work out where we will put the wall units/shelf as we have a window above the sink so probably on the opposite wall. We also need to add on a cupboard on the end next to the fridge for a similar sized tall freezer (I think it's technically a 3/4 size to match the fridge) and possibly another tall unit next to it just to add on extra space (currently the stretch with the appliances is 3m but we have just over 5m available) but we are made up with what we have. I'm not sure yet if we will keep the worktop or look at quartz or similar (we can always use the existing worktop in our utility). Depends on budget but I don't dislike the worktops that are on to be honest. The flooring you can see is a sample of flooring we carry everywhere we fell in love with a while ago (a worn concrete appearance LVT). So, we are only two weeks in and we have a bath, kitchen, footings and brickwork! No messing around here... Here are some pics.
  11. I am looking for a new knife block, and have been looking at options. Of the different types of knife blocks etc. I don't think we have discussed this one before, so I thought a wider thread might be beneficial. 1 - Magnetic "hanging on the wall" ideas. I am not keen on these as they seem to me to be vulnerable to accidental knocking, and if that is going to happen I do not want my sharp, heavy knives falling from that height. If they are going to get knocked I want it to be difficult for them to go beyond the worktop. Also the blade edges are exposed - not good. 2 - Magnetic "stick to the front" knife blocks to sit on the worktop I am not a fan of magnetic blocks on worktops either though they are imo not as risky should something happen. And again the blade edge is still exposed. 3 - Slotted sections in drawers Potentially an advantage is that the knives are hidden away - but correspondingly inaccessible. But they are either stored on their cutting edge blunting it a little, or risk having the cutting edge exposed on thicker knives. 4 - Blocks with Plastic Rods No comment really on these, except that the ability to wash the rods in a dishwasher is very good - but they seem to take days to dry. And there is no airflow around the blades when stored. And little bits of plastic get attached to the knives and they need a wipe every time. 5 - Traditional Knife Blocks or Variations This is what I have at present, and I like that I can store the knives on their backs safely, or vertically. I do not like the extra space taken up by the angled block. I currently need a new one, as I need to store more than a dozen knives plus small ones ie paring, utility and steak knives. So comments would be most welcome. Ferdinand
  12. Hi there, I'm in the process of a wee project in our house. We are thinking of moving the kitchen into the dining area, removing a non-load bearing wall, dropping windows down to the ground. Getting a bit frazzled by it all....hoping for ideas, support and experience from members of this forum
  13. HI All, Glad to have found this forum and hope it helps with my first time into house extending. Previously I've done some renovation such as a back to brick full kitchen and bathroom where I did most of the work but did plastering/tiling done professionally. Planning on building an extension approx. 20sqm with a vaulted ceiling/apex roof which has full glazing/sliding doors on the end. Rather than extend straight out from the main property, it will have a 45deg dogleg near the ear to stop me overlooking neighbours and vice versa - this may cause an issue with the roofing but maybe not. Timescales would be to organise everything this year (if possible with the virus situation) and start the build in the second quarter of next year with it hoping to take around 3 months to complete. My property is a modern (cookie cutter) detached 3 bed house with integrated garage built in 2007 - so typical timber framed newish build of a standard design/build. So apart from coming up with layout ideas and having briefly spoken to architects/builders at a couple of Home Building and Renovation shows, all I know is I need to properly speak to an architect/technician/engineer to come up with a proper design and relevant drawings before I can get quotes from builders/suppliers. Is this right? I have checked that my plans will be within Scottish permitted development, except I'm not sure of where to measure from when deciding if within 1 metre of the boundary? Is it from the wall or eaves as they protrude from the walls? Also not sure if I can extend back flush with the side wall or if I'd need a step in to distinguish from the main build/extension? Luckily, my neighbour has his own building supplies company so should be able to help with sourcing most of what is needed at a good price. I also am handy with DIY to a good standard so hope to be able to do a fair bit of work to help out and work with the builder as I only work 3 1/2 days a week. So that's me! Anyone else in west/central Fife doing work too? cheers Kev
  14. Hi all, we are looking to extend the kitchen and we are really unsure what to do for best. We are thinking we can either knock the conservatory down and extend the kitchen up to where the lounge is (if not too expensive) or knock through into the lounge (and move the lounge to front).Any ideas welcome!
  15. Too much Christmas food makes your brain really thick. Mine is like pea soup today. And that - of all days - is when I have to finalise my kitchen spec. Now, to kitchen sinks. We are considering a 1.5 bowl sink - either in stainless steel or in Fragranite (or similar). Intended for quite heavy daily use (DH is a keen chef) by a family who stubbornly refuse to be slaves to daily uber-cleaning. We'll have a water softener, if it matters. Can you share your pet hate (or love) re your sinks, please? 1) What is your sink made of? 2) Inset or undermount? 3) Do you like it? Thank you and Merry Christmas.
  16. Hello We have just completed our extension where we have moved our existing kitchen into the extended part of the house. The original plan was to make our existing galley kitchen into 2 small rooms, utility and shower room (shower, toilet and sink). We have decided to not have the shower so considered keeping the room as 1 and having the utility and toilet/sink altogether. As this room will be directly attached to the kitchen (although toilet on the opposite side of the 4m long room) would this satisfy BR? It's not ideal but also dont want the expense and feeling as though we have 2 tiny rooms if we don't need to. Thanks in advance for any advise.
  17. Apart from a lick of paint and a recent bathroom, the house is pretty much unchanged since built: Gas warm-air heating (ducts, and lots of 'em) with electric immersion heater for hot water Parquet floors to lounge, hallway and dining room which needs resanding, filling and sealing (plus filling the gaps left when we remove the warm-air heating outlets) 1970s kitchen, including sliding-door cabinets! Our aspirations are: Immediate - Convert current tiny utility and the end of the double-length garage into a new dining area flowing off the kitchen, plus new utility and (probably) downstairs shower room Immediate - Roof lantern and bi-fold doors onto garden in new dining area Immediate - Replace warm-air heating, ideally with something more environmentally friendly Medium term - New kitchen (self-fitted) Long term - Replace tiling on gable ends with cladding (possibly cement board e.g. Marley Eternit) Challenges are: Three-gabled (T-shaped) chalet roof limits possibilities upstairs unless we put in dormers (which we don't have budget for and which would be tricky anyway due to multiple gables) No space to add a shower to upstairs bathroom unless we make the small bedroom smaller still. Possibly considering downstairs shower Existing ground-floor spaces are concrete floor with no inbuilt insulation Garage floor is about 100mm lower and so when we raise floor we'll have to raise the roof too Extending heating to the converted area of the garage - warm-air ducts can't be extended (and we don't think we're fans of it anyway). Garage floor isn't low enough for UFH and necessary insulation, and we don't have budget for lowering it, so it's going to have to be a combi-boiler and rads Asbestos throughout (we've had a specialist survey) including soffits, boiler flue, roof tile underboard, boiler cupboard door, utility ceiling, Marley vinyl floor tiles in kitchen (only the last three of these areas are likely to be touched though). No asbestos in warm-air ducting - confirmed by survey. Budget for immediate stuff is £30k. Conversion could be £20k, leaving only £10k for heating changes.
  18. Because of our budget, there's some hard decisions and trade-offs to be made. Grateful for any constructive comments! Remaining garage size It's a double-length garage - 9m. We could just convert half of it, leaving the front part as a regular-sized garage, but that will leave us tight on space. Instead we're leaning towards taking around 5.5m, making the front part just a workshop and store (and hopefully, micro-brewery ?. Floor will be raised by 100mm using PIR with 18mm chipboard on top, and external walls with timber frame and PIR. Roof to be raised by our tame builder. Shower location Due to the 3-gabled chalet roof, there's not many places where a shower can be put upstairs. There's no scope for an en-suite that we can see (unless we shelled out for a dormer, which is likely to be beyond our budget). The only option for an upstairs shower seems to be to move the bathroom wall into the 3rd bedroom, making it smaller still. The other option is to have a downstairs shower room in the garage, but that's then eating into kitchen/dining room space. Kitchen/dining room configuration The existing kitchen is long and narrow, but we aim to widen the room by taking out the built-in cupboards and moving the door back slighting into the hallway We'll then knock through the current utility room The new space is actually larger than the existing kitchen. Do we move the kitchen into the new space and have the dining room where the kitchen is? Could seem a little odd to walk through the dining room to the kitchen, plus we'd have to install a new kitchen pronto as we'd be wrecking the orginal (and that's not in our short-term budget) Would like big (possibly 4m, 5 door) bi-folds onto garden, and a big (3m x 1.5m) roof lantern in new converted space on flat garage roof. Lowest u-values we can afford. Leaning towards keeping the kitchen location where it is, sink relocated to window, and with a small utility room in old garage space Insulation Uninsulated concrete ground floor - which might be tricky to raise and too expensive to lower for insulation. VIPs too expensive to do throughout (but considering 10mm for kitchen) Cavity walls are already insulated Roof insulation needs topping up, and lap vents installing in roof fabric Heating and hot water Existing system is warm air, with electric immersion and cylinder for hot water. Boiler replaced within last 12 months, but the system can't easily be extended into the new conversion space. So we'd need a combi-boiler just for the conversion. Floor drop in garage isn't enough for the insulation that would be recommended for UFH House isn't well-enough insulated for ASHP As a result we're leaning strongly towards simply a new modern combi-boiler and wet rads throughout
  19. Have made a start to mvhr. It's all in the loft, just need to tape and insulate all the pipework for the distribution boxes etc. All the upstairs room plenums (grey units that the extract/air intake adjustable covers fit to - bpc call them that so apologies if it's the wrong term) are in place. I am using the semi rigid ducting with 2 ducts going to bathrooms and kitchen and main rooms and 1 to WC etc. My other half cooks, bakes, makes jam, the lot really so will 1 extract point in the kitchen be enough? Have a powerful extractor over the hob that will be converted to recirculation only. Should I consider a second extract ? Kitchen is around 4.5m x 3.1m if that helps at all? Thanks James
  20. Hi, I'm new here and have a building regs question. My Dad needs a full time helper in the house so we are setting up the spare room for this person. They will not be renting the room, just "living in". We would like to give them some possibility of cooking in their room, so that during their private time they don't need to use the main kitchen, but I'm worried about coming up against building regs ie fire doors, electric certificates etc. and incurring major costs. So my question is: How much can we add to the room like fridge, microwave, cooker, kitchen sink etc. before the bedroom becomes a kitchen according to the law? In other words what is the definition of a kitchen? Cheers Justin
  21. New kitchen has been installed so looking to protect as best as I can whilst other parts of the house are plastered and painted (late Jan). Last plastering was done 3wks ago (in hallway and a small area in the kitchen where a doorway had to be blocked up. Kitchen floor also had self levelling poured 2 weeks ago. Kitchen installer mentioned covering the units with cardboard to protect it from the 'damp'. Is this wise? I would think that would just attract/absorb the humidity and bugger up the mdf.... My thought was to just take the plinths off and allow the air to circulate around the units (there's a 50mm gap up the sides). House is sealed up but has no heating yet (Sunamps should get here in Jan/Feb). Any thoughts? TIA!
  22. My oven housing is 600 wide, external measurement with an internal width of 570mm but it seems that most single ovens say they are 600mm wide. I want to assume that means they fit into a 600 wide unit as the housing doesn't come in a wider size but can someone please confirm that or otherwise for me please. I can't afford another expensive mistake
  23. Hi, I'm selling in January to fund my self build but the estate agent recommended upgrading the kitchen if I was able. I'm happy putting down new flooring (the existing has lifted due to previous leaks) but am debating if I should replace the existing kitchen doors or get them repainted? I'd like to get the countertop changed also - they have that cheap metal strip in the joints. Not sure I want to have to take out the sink but that's certainly doable. Anyway, the doors are coated with plastic something - might be PVC. I can clean them up and paint them myself to keep costs down but would the finish be worth it? There is also a resin you can pour onto a countertop I've seen people use, would that be an option? Anyway, any ideas welcome. Initial research shows that a professional respray is over €1K, or new doors about €540 based on my current research. I can install doors/soft closers etc myself and get new handles. Not sure about the end carcass facings / shelves etc and if these can be left or should also be touched up? I'm not set on any particular style, just one that refreshes things and caters to most tastes? Thanks!
  24. My personal Internet search engine (Debbie) has for a while been dropping hints (bricks) about this place. Our chippy says we will prolly (?) need to buy more than we need to make the necessary allowances for our kitchen. Anyone used them, or know anything?
  25. Looking to bamboo my open plan kitchen/living area. Should you run flooring up to the plinths in a kitchen, or all the way to the wall, prior to kitchen cabinet being fitted? Can't seem to get a clear steer on this Scott
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