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Crofter last won the day on May 10

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  1. Council tax

    There has been some recent discussion on this (would post link but iPad won't let me...) You'll be charged once you move in, whether the build is complete or not. And indeed you might be asked to pay once the council think the house is in any way habitable. So options for avoiding include to leave the water or power disconnected.
  2. The 6k kitchen

    You do know those bathrooms are for display purposes only, don't you...
  3. Induction hob review

    Thanks for the headsup on the framed/frameless hob- I wasn't really aware of the difference. The towel rail is going onto a studwork partition. Prior to plasterboarding, I did put in a layer of 11mm osb with the idea that I could then use hollow-wall fixings. Hmmm, maybe I should have put some big beefy dwangs in there instead...
  4. Floating or Fully Bonded floor over UFH

    The advice thay came with my bamboo was to bond down over large areas (>6m or >35m2). I wanted to go for T&G as I knew I'd be laying it on my own, and wrestling click planks together is not fun without extra pairs of hands. Plus T&G gives you ever so slight wiggle room. I've not seen any official advice on the matter, but my feeling is that the simplistic "leave a 10mm gap for expansion" plays a part in this. Surely any flooring will expand/contract as a set proportion of its size, not as an absolute measurement. So if you have a 1m wide corridor, the flooring may be fine with much less than 10mm expansion gap, whereas if you have a 10m wide kitchen, you may need a much greater gap. Bond it down and it can't go anywhere, regardless of the size of the room. Although they still say to leave a 10mm gap, which is weird really. The main downside may be that replacement of damaged boards could be tricky when it's bonded down- although @Stones managed to replace individual pieces where bonding had failed, IIRC.
  5. Glue Down Engineered Oak

    It depends on what shape you are covering- the squarer it is, the faster you can work. Long thin strips of a single plank are tedious though. Working on my own I'm probably averaging one to two m2 per hour. I have no idea how that compares to other people, though.
  6. Glue Down Engineered Oak

    I'm also using the Lumberjack stuff- as @Mr Punter says once you get your eye in and know how much to put down, it makes spreading it easier. I'm gradually getting bolder in how big an area I can do, but I have the fear of trying to do too much and then not managing to close up all the T&G gaps properly. I've not tried to lift any boards (yet- there's still time for a cockup!) but a couple of times I have put offcuts in place for hammering, and have had to prise them off the floor with a fair bit of force- so it seems to be good stuff. I got my tubs from a surplus guy on eBay, they appeared to be unopened (tab intact) but there was a pretty thick skin on top, and no sign of a plastic bag. The first tub I chucked away the skinned over bit, which was a mistake, because a new skin formed which was just more waste. So on the second tub I've kept the skin and put it back on top when I'm done. I'll have to buy another tub, might pay full price next time, getting it in a bag sounds much handier.
  7. Induction hob review

    You can pick up unbranded induction hobs for well under £200. I'm quite tempted, especially after reading about how apparently simple these devices are. For the kitchen in the holiday let, I am deliberately going for 'bling' to give a more upmarket feel. It's the exact opposite of what I would do if it was my own house. However I can't stretch to the £350 minimum needed for a NEFF hob, so a blank unbranded one (well it still says Schott Ceran on it) might just do the trick- I reckon people won't notice the lack of a name, but they will notice a cheap name. I'm probably massively overthinking all of this...
  8. I'm exactly like this. It doesn't matter if you miss a stud once or twice with the nailer (so long as nobody is standing on the other side!) but once you reach the point where things are going to be on show, you have to be much more careful- I've found that I've slowed down quite a bit. Everyone else seems to think it's daft that I'm more apprehensive about fitting s piece of skirting board than I was about installing a joist, or pouring founds. On the general question of stress and timescale, I've found my enthusiasm waxing and waning throughout the project. I wish I could go back to the very start when I was spending hours on Sketchup trying out different layouts (none of which I used in the end- the final one only emerged after I'd started plasterboarding). If you could bottle than endless energy, and use a bit of it at the end of the build, wouldn't that be wonderful?
  9. Slightly more important question this time! This is the waste that came with the tray. Looks like a 40mm compression fitting on it- I tried a piece of solvent-weld 40mm pipe in it and sure enough it doesn't quite fit. Would one of these be useful: Or is it a bit of a bodge?
  10. Back to this one again. Shower tray and screen have now arrived. Floor is suspended on JJI joists so quite easy to route services between them (a lot easier than digging up a concrete slab anyway!) The tray has its drain point at the middle of one of the long sides. My instinctive feeling on this is that I should put this edge at the back wall, rather than next to the screen. But it probably doesn't make much difference either way. Or does it?
  11. Interesting article from Which regarding fire safety in fridges/freezers: Boils down to what the back is made of- plenty appliances out there with flammable materials close to the compressor/radiator. If an electrical fire starts here, it can get very ugly, very quickly. A fully protected metal back casing can help prevent the electrical fire becoming an insulation fire. Some brands fair much better than others- as might be expected, the more upmarket names are in the 'safe' list, although it's good to see Beko in there too (I say that because my fridge and freezer are both from them!) Now for my hair-brained suggestion: what about fitting an automatic fire extinguisher in the void behind an adjacent kitchen unit, aimed at the compressor? These things are standard fit in engine compartments (boats, rally cars etc) and not expensive- about £30. Would give some peace of mind anyway.
  12. MIcrowave Shelf

    Agree with this but isn't @Onoff's sprog living on their own? Still think half of one cupboard will be plenty. As a carless student you tend to shop little and often.
  13. MIcrowave Shelf

    I don't suppose the microwave could go *in* the wall unit? If you took a door off? In my experience students plan their shopping about fifteen minutes ahead, so won't need all that cupboard space anyway.
  14. Shower Trays - Which Brand

    My 1500x760 with screen came from the same source, £200 inc waste, not bad at all. Not installed yet but I can't see owt wrong with it.
  15. Interesting one. I don't have any specific knowledge on this but surely the critical thing is the distances involved- your stove should specify a minimum distance to combustibles. You could also shield the cables e.g. in metal conduit.