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One square overlap should be fine. A lesson I learned in doing this is to go overboard in trying to get it all as level as you can (sounds obvious I know) especially if you are trying to avoid a screed. It will save a lot of time later on when putting the floor down. Use laser level/yardstick or some way to be able to tell easily at any point in the floor how its level compares to everywhere else. Have someone with a barrow and shovel ready to add bits here and there (or to take away). Corners especially can have a tendency to get a bit high. I was doing a whole house and an outbuilding on the same day so it all got a bit hectic!

One of the most shocking things to emerge from all this for me has been a former housing minister's justification for not following up on numerous recommendations to retrofit sprinkler systems in high-rises - "We believe that it is the responsibility of the fire industry, rather than the Government, to market fire sprinkler systems effectively and to encourage their wider installation." Brandon Lewis I mean that is so evidently a non starter if there is no actual requirement to have them that it defies belief. Another great success story for deregulation and faith in the benign power of market forces. Not to say that a sprinkler system would have worked in this instance but it just seems to be a tragic example of how not to approach issues as important as fire safety.

Am i missing something but what is the point of a layer of insulation with a great ventilated void behind it? Doesn't it rather negate the benefit of the insulation?

Not tempted by a square cut with a jigsaw instead of a line of holes?

I wonder how well the residents of two tower blocks near me will sleep as they are just finishing an EWI retrofit. Luckily for them I think they used wood fibre/render on two sides and rock wool/cladding on the other two sides (intentionally I think!) so if what is suggested above about wood fibre board being ok then I guess they shouldn't be such a fire risk.

I would be interested to know more about the fire retardancy of different types of EPS. I specifically ordered fire treated EPS for my build and understood that to mean that if lit it doesn't go up in flames as non fire treated EPS would but just gently smoulders. I understood it to be something added to the whole board not just coated on the exterior of the board. Whether or not under very high temperatures they all just go up in flames I don't know or for that matter what was used in this terrible fire.

Do you really think that Corbyn's labour is extreme left? It appears to me that the political paradigm has shifted so far to the right over the past few decades that I can see how it is represented or thought of as such but I am not sure it is extreme. When exactly was the last left wing government?

I had a SIP garden shed (6m x 4m) built by two capable canadian builders. The panels came in a large shipping container but apart from that it was all walked around into the garden so no plant/cranes needed. I believe the largest were 10 foot long. It was a great success!

I presume you meant 100mm PIR over the timber frame as well as the 95mm between the frame. I'd use rock wool or something similar for between.

I had a couple of colorcoat roofs installed by the these guys and was very happy with them and the roof. I didn't go the DIY route because I was pretty much doing everything else so happy to pay more for this part of the build. I'm not sure if you are installing yourself or not but I wouldn't hesitate to call them as I suspect they could answer your questions pretty quick (maybe while getting an install quote). I also have a copy of the guarantee if you want to have a look. http://www.steelroofinstallersuk.com/contact-us/

I'm not sure how much free ventilation I would as it might increase the sound levels in the bedrooms of the MVHR.

I personally wouldn't worry about it - I have what you describe but no issues with moisture.

thanks for the replies - a single pole MCB seems the way to go

I am taking a supply from a 3 phase board to a single phase CU (with a 100A main breaker) and want to make sure it is done right (and before you ask I am planning on getting a qualified install as I am not an electrician but I want to know what I am talking about when I try to find that qualified help!) I have a 36m run of 3 core 16mm cable going from CU to a Lewden 3 phase board. There is one existing breaker in the 3 phase board that is a 3 pole 32A with the neutral going to a shared bar. Can one get a 3 pole MCB and just connect up the one pole for the 240V supply to the CU? Or are there specific breakers that allow you to go from 400V to 240V? Or can one just put in a single pole MCB and leave the other two blank? I was looking at something like this https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/4553693-63a-triple-pole-10ka-type-c-mcb Is it an issue that it is a 63A 3 pole MCB if it is going to a 240V CU with a 100A main breaker (given that I am only going off one phase) - I will not be using more than 63A so I am assuming it should be ok. I hope this is enough info and thanks for any help.

yes to bonding with tacky pva then finish with skim (no need for pva when skimming onto bonding)

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What ever it is I would glue it down with PU glue. A mistake I put down to experience!

Compost loo went over! Luckily not too messy.

I found this tool quite useful for getting an idea of u values (and condensation risks) http://www.vesma.com/tutorial/uvalue01/uvalue01.htm

pretty sure you can use armoured without trunking - but I am not an electrician! Needs to be a certain depth and covered by a bit of plastic warning tape I believe.

do you want a nightclub or a kitchen!

I'm sorry but I don't have any advice on the car carrying roof. I don't know what stage you are at with it all and assuming it is a domestic property the u values are pretty unambitious. In fact I suspect they may not even pass building regs now as there were changes in 2014 and I see your plans were done before that.

i've never used them but I have heard that your bricky needs to be very accurate in laying them down as there isn't so much room for error.

if there are any joints use compression not solder as LPG will eat away at the soldered join

blimey - that's not right