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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    And try plumbworld who may have what you want
  2. PeterW
    Run away ...!!! soak is a rebrand of Bath Empire... used to have the worst rating on Trust pilot so they did a rebrand... caveat emptor
  3. PeterW
    The Wickes wagon will be much bigger than the 10 tonner from the quarry...!!!
  4. PeterW
    Hi i wouldn't try and use the ICF skin to do this - you would use the core and then insulate below the beam. Using Tetris you would have essentially the concrete beams encased in insulation anyway. Your other option is to use steel to create a bridge / goalpost outside of the ICF and then clad these where your alleyway is - quick and simple and would allow you to separate the inner and outer structures
  5. PeterW
    But part of the issue is we have created this ..! Trades are competing for work and I would hazard 80% are competing on price alone. So if you take that through to its conclusion, they need to do more work to make money. And quality suffers.... I have a brickie on a piece rate for the work I'm doing but he knows it's a fair price and if there are extras then I pay - for example I pay more for heads / soldiers and extra per lintel. I could say it should be in the price but for what accounts for say 3 days extra cost on 40 days, it's a small price to pay for the attention to detail. Its the classic scope/quality/cost triangle that any good PM knows - if you keep the scope the same and reduce the cost, then quality suffers ...
  6. PeterW
    Hi and welcome ..! Have you considered ICF..?? Classic case for using it as you can DIY it, render the outside and use B&B if you want for the first floor. If you wanted to go to TF above that then it would stand on the concrete core and you can line up the outer coverings pretty easily.
  7. PeterW
    Stack in the family room doesn't line up under the ensuite..? I would get rid of a lot of those rodding points as they aren't needed - I would run the kitchen side foul drain outside the building until you get to the garage then turn it under the garage (11 degree bend) and then join at an IC there
  8. PeterW
    Can you move the main line 8" across ...?? Put the 45 into the Y and they will run parallel but 8" apart. Using a Y to drop into a run is not good practice as you get a "pile up" at the point of the drop and the water can go over the top of it. Those vertical movement joints are a waste of money - you won't get that much settlement in a B&B house floor.
  9. PeterW
    Lintel spaces can be done with a 600mm lintel leaving a 300mm gap if it's straight on so you shouldn't need to close it off. Also consider using rest bends at the bottom of the main stack and a Y branch to get this into the main run - using a Y with a 22.5 degree bend and not bedding it in concrete may allow it to move. It also creates 3 joins that should be where it's smoothest.
  10. PeterW
    My Howdens account used to show me prices but they weren't my prices ..! It was better than JP would get but not some of my "discounts" which usually were obtained by me using the words "£8 for a box of screws you must be having a laugh..." and then they became £5... MKM price my stuff onto the system for 28 days so I just mail a list over to the branch director who updates them and they are always right. Negotiated a discount on the Velux windows last week so they beat an online specialist so I'm pretty happy.
  11. PeterW
    I thought you only needed to do that for high volume extracts or intakes ..?
  12. PeterW
    Think so... and I may need 15m extra so that 25m over is becoming sought after !!
  13. PeterW
    So I've currently got a TS, and I'm also planning a UVC and gleaning info from here and other places has driven both of those decisions. If you have a mix of heating temp requirements (ie rads and UFH) then a TS is perfect assuming you have the boiler to keep up with it or have a suitably large store. They are also great for taking ST inputs. If you've got low grade heat such as ASHP then most likely you've got UFH so the best option is a very large UVC as the recovery time will be much longer.
  14. PeterW
    So to compensate for the lull in wind they are installing a number of these near me - apparently they are heavily subsidized just to sit idle ..! There are 8 of them in the edge of an industrial park just waiting for the wind to drop ...
  15. PeterW
    I hope you pay day rate .... as your brickie will hate you by the end of that ..!
  16. PeterW
    Some TS units need the 3rd pump for the PHE unit on the side. Others use an in tank coil so no pump needed. Newark Copper Cylinders will make what you need - can be a lot cheaper than the others even for a bespoke cylinder.
  17. PeterW
    Have you spoken to Johnstones Technical department ..? I've spoken to them on a couple of occasions and they have been fantastic - they are knowledgeable and helpful.
  18. PeterW
    If they are inside the main part of the build they will last decades without exposure to the elements. Paint is quick and easy if they have been shot blasted. Still not too difficult if they haven't as you just need to give them a good wire brushing.
  19. PeterW
    Downside of 100mm insulation on the frame is very long fixings needed and they are not cheap. Is there a batten on the inside too ...? Or are you just using the plasterboard to hold back the insulation ..?
  20. PeterW
    Why not put the boiler in the garage and make more space in the kitchen ..? And GSR fitter says yes but would prefer to use two 45 degree bends rather than the 90s as they aren't true 90 so a vertical can look odd. And watch out for windows above the garage roof ...
  21. PeterW
    Job for the weekend .....
  22. PeterW
    Firstly get a mortgage agreement in principal for the amount you think you can afford and want to spend. Let's use easy numbers and say you need £300k on top of your £100k equity. The bank will want to see that you can afford the interest payments on the £300k with everything else. If if you find a plot with PP for a 200sqm house you can say that at £1250/sqm the house will cost £250k and you have £150k for the land. You make an offer on the land and at that point you can start to get quotes or at least QS estimates to back up your £1250/sqm estimate that the mortgage company will need. if possible try and hold onto your money as the contingency so you don't need to go back to the bank for more ...
  23. PeterW

    Larder

    PeterW replied to Weebles's topic in Introduce Yourself

    If its not too late, think cellar ! The existing garage in our conversion/extension had a big inspection pit in the centre of it - 900x2500mm and over a metre deep. It was bone dry and is constructed with a 6" hollow core breeze block. Its had a 4" concrete cap cast over the top of it and then insulation and the floor slab so is nearly a foot thick at its entrance. Even with it open to the room above its a constant 11c so it will be used as a wine cellar and cheese store..!
  24. PeterW
    Put 2 standard blocks side by side with a 10mm mortar join and that gives you 215mm wide and a variable from 0-225mm deep. Add an additional block on top and you're at 0-335mm depending on the foundation level. Below ground and for load bearing of B&B floors then you have to use a 7N block or potentially a 10N block depending on the SE spec. I would go with a 140mm 10N block and use a coursing brick, and overlap the beams on the blockwork as you will struggle to get a perfect 100mm end bearing otherwise. And cutting is easy with a Stihl saw and a diamond blade.... don't forget the PPE..!
  25. PeterW
    If you want to do selective weedkilling using GP then there is a tried and tested way. You need a bucket, some marigold gloves, and a cheap pair of cotton gloves.... Mix the GP to the spray strength on the pack with cold water, add a squirt of ordinary fairy liquid. Put the marigolds on, and then the cotton gloves... yes, you now look silly ! Dip your cotton gloved hands into the bucket of GP and then wring your hands and wipe the gloves over the leaves of what you want to remove. Do 4 or 5 leaves on each plant and try not to saturate them as it will drip off otherwise. Work your way along the plants you want to remove and repeat after 2 weeks, then another 2 weeks. Yes its laborious but it works !
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