PeterW

It's even more fun if you're not named as the liable party on the CIL form as you have to get someone to assign liability ..! And that's another form ....

I would just de-solder that and get it onto some wire - use something reasonably "chunky" like a speaker wire as these work on resistance so you want to not affect that if possible. You could just use a 3.5mm mono jack for ease - £10 would get you an extension of 10m which should easily be enough to get into a duct.

SIPS are usually foamed in situ, not glued. It is PUR in them as its structurally stable, not EPS which is not stable in shear or tension. @DanielYou "could" make your own SIPs, by the time you've got an SE to sign off the design and found an insurer that may accept them, you will have spent twice as much on them than buying them in...

Check Ironmongery Direct as they do a lot of sliding door gear in big sizes. https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/kl-g-straight-sliding-door-gear-70-100kg-straight-sliding-track-3000mm-262348

Gloss acrylic will show any wall imperfection as it forms to the wall shape - around sockets for example it may deform slightly. Cutting it it is fairly easy as you just go slowly and carefully as any pressure just forms heat and it bunches up the swarf on the saw. The link @PeterStarck mentions is a good one but also what he says is correct - it's not heatproof above 95c where it will start to deform, and once scratched is a pain to get polished out. Glass is better but less forgiving as a material to work with.

Outside tap only I think ...

Not seen them in the U.K. but they are used in Canada - don't think they've got a BBA certificate for U.K. use. I'd be vary wary putting timber below ground as whatever you do to it it will rot eventually.

That looks very "binary"...... Edited to add that I've just looked and these are good to 3% accuracy ..! Can pick them up for £2 on eBay so removing the old one intact may not be an issue.

No I'm just so tight I make @Nickfromwales look generous ..!! I hate buying "custom" parts at a premium price when you can make simple ones work - hose bits are cheap and have swivels built in already so why create yourself hassle and extra cost ..?

Just de-solder that one and extend it with a wire - should be fine if you mark the correct polarity.

Yep that's a thermistor. Any chance of a photo of the end of the beige block where it meets the circuit board ..?

So you may want to still go for a floating pickup as it means you don't pull the crap from the bottom of the tank. Easily made using standard garden hose push fit connectors and a ballcock float....

Yup ... try this one Flanged Connector

Run away...!! Or check Trust Pilot first ... VP tried to take VPing to court for misrepresentation amongst other things. There are plenty of decent bath suppliers out there - size and budget ..??

Yep the cream one but how it's supposed to detect humidity there I've no idea..! The front looks sealed on that. CO2 sensor is the one at the bottom. I think it's a cheap 2 wire sensor - easily removed and extended on a length of ordinary bell wire ....! Just re-read the instructions - does it do humidity based fan control as it seems to say it's only CO2 ..??

You can over vibrate concrete and cause weaknesses if you're not careful - I would be really surprised if it's needed

So that's added after it's started to go off ..? If there was a lot of box section rebar and you were pouring direct then I can understand it but for pump grade concrete with 10mm aggregate and probably 150/160 slump then I can't see why you need to.

Shouldn't need vibrating unless you've got lots of rebar in the trenches ..?? Pump grade is very liquid and will flow without it.

Nope that's fine..! Got the height to get it in ..? Flanged tank connector (ABS one about £6-7..?) needs a couple of things. Drill a 115mm hole and try the backplate for size and mark the fixing holes - should be 4 or 6 - and drill those slightly oversized. Use some 5 min epoxy and bond some flanged nuts onto the backplate over the holes - makes life easy ..!! Straighten a coat hanger and feed it through the lid and onto the top hole of the ring of holes you've drilled. Two lines of silicone around the backplate and then slide the backplate into the tank along the coat hanger through the top hole - should all line up nicely ..! Two lines of silicone around the outlet plate and offer it up to the coat hanger ..! You can now reach through the open hole and align all the plates with 2 pan head machine screws. Do them up reasonably tight, then remove the coat hanger. Dob of silicone on the remaining 4 holes and screw them tight - remove the original 2 and do the same. Quick wipe round with with a cloth and as tight as a tight thing ..!

I'm going for a non submersible as we had a discussion on here about it as it supplies the house. You're slightly different as you don't care if it doesn't work as only the plants will die ..! Cheap submersible pumps are just that - cheap ..! This would be fine Hyundai 540w

It's a blue DHT11 from memory on the back left as you look at the unit .... I had one of these by accident as I ordered the proper Mitsubishi unit from them (£110) and they sent me that ..! They had none of the Mitsubishi ones in stock at the time and the cherub on the end of the phone thought they were the same ... take a photo and post it - I'm sure @JSHarris will spot it a mile off ..!

Errr if you go with the big filter sock then the calming inlet is irrelevant. Tank 1 will be cloudy, tank 2 will be the better (overflow) tank 3 and 4 will be clearer as they should only get moved a little by water coming in and out of the 32mm connector. My tanks came off eBay from a place in Sheffield - sore subject as they are sat on a friends yard as the skip is still in the way so I can't get them in the ground ......

Correct although with a deck you could easily enable that ..! Dont forget the self cleaning ones dump the crud into your soak away - ideally you stop the big stuff at the gutter, smaller at the downpipe and the last bits at the tank

On that cost it's a "never pay back" unless you've got an allotment garden ..! mine is coming in at around £350 for all the bits for 2900 litres of storage and pumps / filters. Only difference on internal pipe work is that I have a dedicated 22mm feed from one end of the house to the other with the toilets tee'd from it and it will end at an outside tap. Deciding whether to run the washing machine currently.

If you have 32mm then use that...! Those vertical filters are the wrong type, they are for downpipes. The horizontal one will work but its silly money - you can get them from Germany for about E85 or pick this sort up http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IBC-Rainwater-filter-Cover-filter-Lid-DN-225-Arch-89-DN-70-Reduction-DN-50-/112406930727?hash=item1a2bf9a527:g:n9QAAOSwYHxWPgJs IBC to 32mm are cheap enough - the ones with the tees fitted can catch on some of the deeper tanks http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IBC-ADAPTER-S60X6-2-Coarse-Thread-to-32-mm-Straight-MDPE-Compression-Fitting-/291687238158?hash=item43e9ea0a0e:g:3CcAAOSwll1WxKUe