PeterW

Explain ..?? Why not just use ASHP to run the UFH as it's going to be at near optimal CoP..? If you really wanted you could just use a small hot water tank as a buffer and connect the coil to the boiler but leave the ASHP and UFH on the open tank volume. It would give you the ability to use both then.

Yeh but we're not talking a combi here .... 140 litre hot water tank ....

Bottom set seems to have two fill loops - possibly one for fill and then the other to vent into a bucket as it's glycol based liquid. PReV has to go to a tundish but can't go to ground - don't you have a septic tank as that may be a problem ... Last pair of bits look like a Flamco NRV - has it got anything stamped on it ..? Goes after the PRV set on some of their stuff but it's not to go between the valve and the EV as otherwise you will create negative pressure when it cools ..!

.... or unless you bought a few in that offer when PlumbCenter cleared them out and you're trying to find a home for them ..... I've seen that done - also seen a 30+Kw boiler in a 3 bed semi as the "heating engineer" was a boiler short of his target from the merchant to get his free week in Marbella ...

Interesting point though as they are a solid aluminum fixture so would reasonably be expected to be min 30min fire proof anyway. Would be interesting to see if something like Zeroflame used on them would provide any additional protection.

Aico FireCap would fit over it with room to spare. I would fit the transformer to the back of the light and it will be a neat package. If they are the same as the ones I have then they are a milled aluminum casing anyway that would effectively work as a solid barrier to flame. Begs the the question though about MVHR as most of the terminals and ceiling manifolds are plastic these days so definitely not fire resistant.

Depends on the availability of services ..?? If that's the wall uValue, you would need to get floor and roof and then calculate the overall loss but with some good airtighness work you could end up with quite a low demand. The issue with low demand is most gas boilers can't modulate low enough so you're into buffers for underfloor heating - assuming you are having it - and DHW will become your main demand for heat. If you are planning solar PV then look at SunAmp units and consider Air Source Heat Pumps, both of which can be DIY installed.

Oregon ones are good but they need buttons on the trousers as they are designed for chainsaw gear. Think you can get them to fit a belt.

There are copies of the 2015 version available online if you search for them. Prices have moved a little but I found it pretty accurate for my area (Midlands) by not applying the factoring to reduce the price from the "standard" SE pricing. Day rates vary a lot - I don't begrudge paying a decent day rate if I get a days work. What grates is when I get day rate work that is 10-3 and an hour for lunch and I'm told the job will take "longer"....

Legend ..!!

12v is much better - can't see why you would want to use 230v unless it's very long runs.

I've got something similar installed and they have a 170 degree angle and no shadows which make them perfect for sloping ceilings.

Apparently not if you suck too hard and put permanent creases in her lovely organza.......

.... I like my chains ... I buy decent chains, and I make them last ..! Oregon are good but I've swapped recently and I'm quite impressed. I also use TC rough service chains too for "unknown" trees and you can't sharpen those with a file ..! All told I've probably got £1500 worth of kit inc PPE so it's horses for courses ...

Bet S'fix charge £12 per chain too ...! I pay £6.50 for a new one and I've got one of these on the bench ..! https://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/products-page/portek/sharpening-equipment1/portek-mini-chainmaster-mk2-electric-chain-sharpener/?gclid=CK7xw_21_NMCFZG6GwodJKQFcQ#

PC is the value of the blocks in there - if you wanted to use a different manufacturer block you add or subtract the difference in cost per square metre to the material price. Rates are covered in detail in the rates tables - it's SE rates I think and you factor a percentage on the labour based upon your locality. I'm not sure if the electronic version allows you to do this for all rates. I've built a version of this from both SPON and a QS sheet I have to validate costs - downside is that you have to take an daily rate and then make it into a per item/m etc rate.

Brickie will work round it assuming there are two lifts available You have PM...

Whereabouts are you ..??? 1600 blocks, 10 days plus expenses so say £2750..?

Oregon PowerSharp bar ... has a reverse bevel chain so the top of the tooth is sharpened not the curved cut as per a normal chain. Stick the stone on it and rev the nuts off it whilst pressing onto a sturdy log and a shower of sparks later you have a sharp chain ... They fit well onto Stihl saws but Husqvarna is a challenge. See them on the low end stuff in the sheds now as it means Joe Public can use a sharp chain to hack his own leg off rather than spend money on PPE and a sharpening system ...

Westco is a TP Group own brand that's also available in Wickes. It appears on their offers frequently

Hmm... I'm paying £13.50 a metre pointed for 170m plus £500/1000 bricks and that's for reclaimed imperials laid. Using ready mixed mortar as I prefer it for consistency.

The Oregon PowerSharp system ..??

Send them a photo and a bill for sorting it. Or just don't pay their invoice ..... If you have a clean out location sorted and they don't use it then it's their problem to resolve not yours .! PS glad the pour went well..!

Most Oak EW will have the spec of the wearing layer - 4-5mm in a lot of cases. Oak is not a very hard wood, it does dink easily and gravel in boots is a classic example of how that happens. I paid about £30 a metre for oak from memory for my front hallway including the glue and it looks ok still after 8 years but it's not a huge space.