PeterW

Depends where you are but I have sourced 5 for £130 delivered (Sheffield) that have been used for food use and steam cleaned. IBCs have standard fittings which is a 63mm coarse thread - you can get these with a 25mm MDPE adapter already on them, and then with 2 tees between them you can connect all 4 together for about £40 of fittings and pipe. You will need a calmed inlet on the first one - I would put an ordinary 110mm low back P trap on the inlet and then take an overflow from an opposite one around 100mm below the tank top - you can do this with a flanged outlet (check Koi Carp suppliers for cheap ones..) and then the flow will be through a couple of the tanks. There is enough capacity on 25mm MDPE to take a lot of rainfall so don't worry about connecting with anything bigger than 25mm (unless you have some 32mm lying around...) Put the pump in the tank with no connections ie not the one with the inlet or overflow, and a simple 10" 5 micron filter between the pump outlet and the tap will mean you keep most of the crud out of the tap/hose.

It's the span that is causing you the problem not the weight. You will have to go deep to get the deflection limits hence the depth you are seeing. I would look at putting some sort of stub walls at least to get a mid span down to say 4m and then use that to support the roof lengths at 5.5m

I may have to look at this a bit more as my drying / conditioning unit is a converted wine chiller ..! Humidity is the issue and I was wondering how to get the air in and out as mine is a "proper" cellar - basically it's the old garage pit converted with with a concrete capping before having the insulation and floor cast over it...! I should get some residual heat from the ufh downwards and then the ground temps from around the sides. Have you tried home smoking too ..?? (I can see this heading OT...!)

No worries - there are some good deals on eBay, hope you got one ..!

So it depends ..! CIL has to be marked clearly on your planning permission approval - it cannot be added retrospectively and you cannot apply for exemption once you have started. You may find your council is one of the ones that hasn't implemented it yet, or your planning was granted prior to its implementation. Only way to check is look at the council website and also on your PP approval

Got a ryobi one that is also an ultrasonic measure and it's great. Had it ages and cost about £30 I think

Oh crap ..!! Now you have me thinking ..!!! What ventilation have you got in there ..? I've not got any but may put a small PC fan to circulate air around. Just had a quick look and the curing room at the local place from the photos has 25mm Ish tube but it looks like it's supported every metre or so from the photos.

Good choice of towel colour ..!!!

Errrr is that how they really supply the pump to controller connector ..??! That's a euro plug and socket - not sure that's legal in the U.K. ..??? @ProDave or @Onoff would know ...

How much D4 do you need and where are you ..? I may have a small stockpile ..!

I think the last line is where you will struggle with any mortgage company. A self build mortgage will require you normally to be building to live in it with affordability based upon income. A Buy to Let mortgage is "normally" aimed at lettings under standard tenancy agreements as they have a reasonable surety of rental income. You may end up having to look towards the commercial mortgage sector as what you want is a hybrid. I had to do this in the past when I owned a serviced apartment and that was funded with a commercial mortgage as I effectively had a company managing the rentals (2 weeks to 2 months on average) but I only got 50% income when it was empty. As @SteamyTea said you may be better buying something - just watch for the tax implications and stamp duty.

Mine took 7 weeks and 3 days to do the brick and roof sample approval ..! Beware of starting as it also affects your CIL exemption - make sure that is back and approved before you stick a spade in the ground. Some councils will let you start groundworks, others make you wait ....!

Welcome ..! i doubt you will get a SIP that will span 7m - that will need some serious support and an 11m steel will be even more eye watering ..! Looking at that design I would consider ICF all round - easier and quicker especially if you have room to dig down to get them in with space for waterproofing below ground. At 154sqm that is a big "garden house" and has the ability to swallow £150-200k at a blink if you're not careful ..!

35mm is too thin even for liquid screed - you would get cracking and movement once it starts to go. The Fermacell option is one that I have considered - it's basically two 12.5mm fermacell sheets bonded together with a 50mm step to create the joins. Fermacell at 12.5mm is very stable so I would expect this to be equally so. If you wanted even more rigidity with a slight amount of bridging you could use 2 layers of 25mm PIR laid between alternating 25mm battens which would allow you to secure the timber or Fermacell floor to the concrete below.

I don't think you can bond down the foil mats - they are laminate only and need to sit directly below the flooring. Given you have a 99% timber structure, adding a layer of cement based adhesive to give you thermal layer for a heating wire system seems odd - I would either go for no heating or the foil one. Click laminate shouldn't be much more expensive as most are that now anyway (or is this because of what's available locally..??)

Glue and screw with D4 adhesive .... and I have lots ..!!

If you want a solid floor for tiling and don't mind the cost, get the Fermacell flooring

4" brick laid in a new mortar will be fine - if you are worried they have gone porous then something like Thompson Water Seal will work but I've never had an issue with reclaim bricks and some have been 1880's Victorian ones.

@jack this makes interesting reading ..! Which? reveals the best and worst high street shops 2017 - Which? https://apple.news/AHhLGSM8NQ-icJpalO7Qd3Q

I got NHBC to pay by asking them how many more houses on the estate might have the same problem ....

I put 4 bar in ours overnight and then dropped it to 3 bar for the pour. When it had all gone off (and stopped fluctuating from the heat ..!) I dropped to 1 bar and it's stayed there ever since just as an assurance that I don't catch the pipes coming up to the manifold.

Hi @LeanTwo - your local council BCO will have knowledge of the area you are in. It may be that you do need that (clay soil etc) or it is their view of how they have always done it. Only a structural engineer and soil test will tell you what is "actually" needed. If its a single storey around where I am (sandstone) then we get 450mm as the minimum. Width is based upon the wall thickness.

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fairly unlikely unless there is a significant and dense smoke as filters are pretty good at taking particles out

So it's 4m x 5m ..?? Assuming you can get a wall plate securely rawl bolted to the existing house then you should be ok with C16 195x44 @400mm centres running in the direction of the house to the garden. I would double up the ones under the edges of the lantern and use proper timber hangers for the ones running under the long sides. Don't forget to leave a 15mm recess all around the inside of your kerb to allow for plasterboard when you're measuring for your lantern.