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About bissoejosh

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  1. Masking tape

    Possibly not helpful but when antifouling our boat we need to use a masking tape that can get wet but remain intact enough to peel off cleanly after several days exposure (in a boatyard, no covers etc). The default answer for that is 3M scotch-blue which is meant to be OK for something like a fortnight, might be worth a look?
  2. Sheathing Board Options

    Good advice, I'll make sure I specify and the supplier confirms!
  3. Sheathing Board Options

    Bit of an update... We've upgraded to 300mm jji beam walls and blown cellulose throughout. To manage this from a cost point of view we've opted to use OSB instead of the egger dhf and also to use 11mm osb and a membrane internally with just a membrane on the ceiling. My next question for those that have sheathed with OSB...Did you use tongue and grooved or square edged? Our egger dhf was t&g which I guess eliminated some cutting for joints etc but I hope square is fine as I believe most are done this way?
  4. Services under beam and block

    Thanks, this is my thinking also. I can't find anything specific about requirements inside the foundation. I had considered insulating the water for this stretch if it could be shallower.
  5. Hi

    Hi, sounds exciting! I'd suggest choosing your wall / foundation detail as early as possible as that eliminates a lot of follow on decisions nice and quickly. Save costs by using cheaper but perfectly suitable materials (EPS instead of celotex for example in the ground) and allow for the additional amounts required to get the same end result (digging deeper / thicker walls etc) assuming space isn't an issue. We've found that there is a huge difference in SIPS/timber frame prices and have opted for an engineered i-beam timber frame which we'll assemble ourselves. What is the ground like where you intend to build?
  6. I need to dig our service trenches next week prior to our beam and block floor being installed. I understand all the cable / pipe depth and spacing requirements in open ground but once the conduits enter the building through the foundation they have some distance to travel before rising up through the floor. My question is do they need to remain buried at the same depths for this stretch or can they rise up to a shallower level as long as the necessary spacing is observed? Many thanks
  7. Inspection stages

    Exactly what I was told recently, "drains then back when the roof is on". Surprised me, but I think they make a judgement call on how they view the risk, self builders generally are going to do the best they can.
  8. Bio-ethanol fire

    We're considering a bio ethanol stove instead of a log burner. The overheating risk puts us off a traditional wood burner but we would like something for the ambiance. How do you refuel it and what sort of consumption do you expect?
  9. Ensuring a Thermal Bridge Free Footing

    Ah that makes sense, certainly something I'll look at nearer the time, long way off yet!
  10. Ensuring a Thermal Bridge Free Footing

    I'm sure I've read somewhere of someone who simply stuck brick slips to solid EPS. This is what I'm hoping to do although I'm yet to research it.
  11. Ensuring a Thermal Bridge Free Footing

    Excellent, it would seem to address a lot of the strip foundation / beam and block issues people encounter if a passive slab isn't viable.
  12. Ensuring a Thermal Bridge Free Footing

    Looking at this some more what is the outer leaf of brickwork for? As far as I'm aware the Larson truss used by MBC doesn't place any vertical load down the outer stud - or have I go that wrong MBC customers? Assuming not could the whole outer leaf be removed, replaced with EPS and then have brick slips stuck to the outside face as external finish?
  13. Replacement E7 Immersion Heater

    Our ancient one packed up on Christmas eve just gone. I was too scared to have a go and be without any HW over Christmas - luckily we have an aga which tops up the water enough for short showers. 2nd of January I set about it - 3 sharp blows with a lump hammer on the immersion spanner with a tank just below full and it was loose. Drained it down and replaced in about 20 mins. Pot luck really from what I've read, it'll either be kind or a sod.... Good luck!
  14. Sheathing Board Options

    So your Pavatherm acts as a retaining layer for the RockWool. We're not having Pavatherm so the question is does the RW need sandwiching or will it stay put with only one (external) side covered by OSB?
  15. Sheathing Board Options

    Lots of thinking after this post. Perhaps I'm missing a trick not detailing in a similar manner - Cullen design asked me a while ago if I wanted to go down the airtight on the outside route but I had already gone 'traditional' in my mind. Any downsides having done it this way or things you would do differently? I think I'd be tempted to still opt for a cheap VCL+ batten to create service void & help support the mineral wool in our frame.