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About bissoejosh

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  1. bissoejosh

    Airtight membrane / Vapour Control Layer

    Many thanks for the suggestions
  2. bissoejosh

    Building the Timber Frame

    Nice, is that a Cullen design? Pumped insulation?
  3. bissoejosh

    Airtight membrane / Vapour Control Layer

    Google, why didn't I think of that. Only £36.82 a roll delivered, bargain. But more seriously a lot of people used passive house systems so I suspect there is an equivalent supplier out there that people have perhaps used recently?
  4. Has anyone purchased VCL / airtight membranes recently and if so where from? I've been trying for several weeks to order through passive house systems but seem unable to do so as they no longer sell to the public direct. If anyone has any recommendations for alternative suppliers that would be great, even better if they stock Gerband products as I'm a big fan of the 586 tape. Many thanks
  5. bissoejosh

    Spacing between gutter brackets

    I think it depends on the manufacturer guidelines but I've set mine at 900mm for Brett Martin Prostyle 106mm on a 32 degree roof. Incidentally these seem to have a pretty high capacity for a given width and seem really well made.
  6. bissoejosh

    Plastering and the white room of paint

    All looks fantastic, really like the ceiling detail.
  7. bissoejosh

    Velfac windows

    I've got 3g Velfac, no issues with the ordering process or with the product. All self measured, and self installed. As mentioned the measuring allowances need careful consideration but once you look at the detail drawings it makes sense. We had a small amount of damage on one door frame during transit / delivery which was repaired without argument.
  8. bissoejosh

    Building regs

    We also have the Build Zone / BBS combo, no complaints so far - our inspector is great.
  9. bissoejosh

    Roofing membrane

    Jet the hose - not Jet Hose. As in sprinkle the garden hose with a small amount of pressure, all I said was it was surprising how little pressure was needed. I used a Garden hose to test after witnessing driving rain penetrating the membrane.
  10. bissoejosh

    Roofing membrane

    It was Cromar vent 3 classic. I used the Vent 3 pro on the roof after a recommendation on here and was really impressed with it. Roofs require a W1 class membrane which is basically how much water is allowed through. The TF200 I used was a W2 product which passes building regs on walls but as explained in driving rain water was getting through which I didn't like and which could be replicated with a surprisingly low jet from a hose. I appreciate that once cladding etc is on the walls won't have anywhere like the same exposure as they do during the build but I didn't like seeing droplets form on the inside where I had window openings and wet OSB behind!
  11. bissoejosh

    Roofing membrane

    Jet the hose at each of them, I did a lot of our walls with TF200 only to realise if the rain was driving it went right through but held water like your test no problem. I contacted the manufacturer who tested a swatch and confirmed it was as it should be and fit for purpose. I disagreed and replaced the lot with a W1 class roofing membrane from Cromar which doesn't let a drop in. Appreciate your membranes are roofing class but might be worth posting for others.
  12. bissoejosh

    Alternative to plastering a ceiling???

    Plywood painted for fireproofing? Also how deep are your joists, if money is tight you might find alternatives to Kingspan a fair bit cheaper if you've got the depth to meet regs. Frametherm, Rockwool etc, all much cheaper but need more depth.
  13. bissoejosh

    Fixing insulation under rafters

    I was thinking a reduction to something like 40/50mm might make fixing easier especially if battens are added to the mix.
  14. bissoejosh

    Fixing insulation under rafters

    Also 280mm of PIR is quite a lot of insulation - nothing wrong with it but a thinner layer might make things easier if it can work with your SAP etc?
  15. bissoejosh

    Fixing insulation under rafters

    I'd do it the other way around. Insulation then batten - the screws for which could be long timber screws to sandwich the whole lot together. The other advantage is this gives a service zone for cable runs / light fittings and also a safety margin for your vapour control / airtight layer when fitting plasterboard screws.