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About bissoejosh

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  1. bissoejosh

    Sole plate bedding, mortar or dry?

    Any recommendations as I'm struggling to find anything specific for the job that isn't in the US? EPDM gasket the sort of thing you mean? Thanks, that's really useful and has helped me finalise my DPM / airtight interface.
  2. bissoejosh

    Timber frame or brick & Block

    All of the above can be applied to a timber frame house. Foundations can be exactly the same if not smaller than those for a masonry construction. Timber frames are about as traditional as you can get and certainly don't need to cost a huge amount.
  3. bissoejosh

    Insulating a narrow cavity

    I've got a small area of wall with two skins of block/brick with a gap 15-20mm that I want to fill with insulation, it's below DPC so I don't think mineral wool etc. Current idea is either spray foam or loose EPS beads/shavings. Any other options I might of missed?
  4. bissoejosh

    Sole plate bedding, mortar or dry?

    That's what I'm hoping to do. Where is your airtight layer / DPM?
  5. bissoejosh

    Timber frame or brick & Block

    I'm in the middle of both types of construction, a blockwork lower GF/basement level and a shortly arriving timber frame upper. Out of choice I'd ditch the blockwork. Putting up a building in 440x215mm pieces seems crazy to me. If you want a solid construction I'd definitely look into ICF as I see real advantages in it over both TF and blockwork. That isn't to say timber needs to feel lightweight, I think choice of insulation plays a big part here and we're going for cellulose. As others have said if you do decide to go with block try to use pumped EPS bead insulation, it eliminates the issue of builders messing up the insulation and allows the build to continue almost regardless of weather. On mine we used full fill cavity batts and they are a pain, when it rains I cover up, I have to clean out the cavity and the batts take time to cut and fit around openings. EPS beads are done in a day and fill everywhere perfectly (in theory!).
  6. Our frame arrives on Thursday & I've one final course of blockwork to do which I'll give extra attention to in terms of levelling in preparation for the sole plates. Do people generally bed sole plates on mortar or dry lay them? I'm not expecting to need any packing if I'm careful with the final blockwork as the levels are currently within 2/4mm over 10+ meters.
  7. bissoejosh

    Top hung posi joist - nail or screw to wall plate?

    Ideal, I can certainly sort something similar tomorrow - thanks.
  8. bissoejosh

    Top hung posi joist - nail or screw to wall plate?

    They suggested skew nailing but didn't have any strict requirements as such. Yes, I was planning to do this as there is a gap at both ends, not huge and within the design but I'd like it as firm as possible. Would timber wedges do or something more substantial? This was how I understood it, but are the top down fixings technically in shear as the joist moves laterally when it flexes or in tension as they fix it down to the wall plate? I think the safest bet is probably to skew nail each one.
  9. Joists are here and dropped in at 400mm centes I'm thinking skew nail the top chord to the wall plate but would welcome any suggestions. For the most they are 97 or 122mm wide, would top down screws give a better fix? Can't find anything specific in the layout drawing or manufacturer installation details.
  10. bissoejosh

    Framing nailers

    @Vijay if you're still looking Anglia tool are doing the Hitachi with 2200 nails and two gas cells for £279 delivered. I found another discount code for 5% off so £265 which seems pretty cheap for a brand new gun.
  11. bissoejosh

    Air-tightness and wall plates (rim joists)

    Did you get this done in the end? What did you use for your airtight membrane as I need to get mine ordered.
  12. bissoejosh

    Mitre Saws

    The majority of the frame is pre cut but some elements are cost effective to cut on site, mostly the straight cuts and simpler internal studwork. Sadly not, I'm in Cornwall so most places are a long way from here. I've set up alerts on all the usual websites now as it sounds hard to deviate from the larger, quality saws mentioned above. That video isn't helping the "I don't need the biggest and the best" argument! Sounds fun, but possibly not for me this time! If nothing comes up soon I'll likely go with the 216mm makita, at £270 it's not silly money and should do what's required. I've also just ordered a circular saw to run through the I-Beams with, a much easier decision as it'll run straight off my Milwaukee M18 battery set. Appreciate all the help.
  13. bissoejosh

    Mitre Saws

    Thanks for explaining, not something I'd considered but makes total sense.
  14. bissoejosh

    Mitre Saws

    If I eliminate the 300mm requirement there are certainly a lot more options and a decent circular isn't an issue but our entire frame is 300mm so it's a fair bit of work. That used DeWalt is a beast, but I'd be slightly worried given the distance from me. I'll have a look locally. Interesting about the Rage, I've read a few reviews about a lack of precision but also a lot of people raving about them! Any thoughts on the Makita?
  15. bissoejosh

    Mitre Saws

    Next on the shopping list is a mitre saw. Not for fine woodworking but studwork and general duties. I need to cut 300mm width for our I-Beams which eliminates quite a few of the cheaper options. I wanted a DeWalt but unfortunately the 778 doesn't have a depth stop and the larger versions are too expensive to justify which realistically means budget is up to £400. Current favorites are the MAKITA LS0815FL or the Evolution Rage 3. Real use opinions on either or other suggestions would be great.