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  1. I’m looking at the current regs and the activity spaces required for different elements, in particular showers. It’s shown that the 800x800 activity space starts at the edge of the shower tray. What happens if you want to have a wet room/walk in type of shower that has no tray edge as such? Where would you class the activity space starting from? https://www.gov.scot/publications/building-standards-technical-handbook-2020-domestic/3-environment/3-12-sanitary-facilities/
  2. Thanks in advance for any help and guidance. We will shortly start on a 3 bed 3 bath SIPs house with wet UFH downstairs, ASHP, MVHR, solar PV - maybe SolarWatt battery. Mostly 2 retired active adults with frequent visitors. As I work through so many decisions, I'm currently stumped with this one. It's really 2 separate questions but they are related for me. So bathroom floors will be porcelain tile. I'm torn between electric UFH or a zone on the UFH? If the latter should each bathroom be a separate zone or just put all 3 on one for simplicity. If electric - which we have currently - each bathroom would be independent. Towel rail needs to be big enough for 2 damp bath sheets, preferably side by side. I've seen examples 1000mm x 600mm. Again if wet, each on its own or one zone? I'll post some of my other dilemmas in the relevant sub forum. thanks
  3. I have a strange noise somewhere in (I think) my shower pipework. When I turn the hot tap off abruptly at the wash basin there is a "ker-lunk" from somewhere in the shower pipework (I think). Can anyone give any thoughts about what I need to look for? For example is it likely to be a pipe loose in its mounting? The bathroom was completely redone a few years ago. It sounds like a variety of waterhammer to me, of which I am familiar as pipe vibrations at previous houses. Thanks Ferdinand
  4. Hi, I would like to fit an oval bath probably this one, https://www.megabad.com/hersteller-koralle-badewannen-serie-t200-ovalbadewanne-a-100501.htm Into a frame in my master bathroom. I am thinking of using a timber panel on the side of the bath and hopefully I can get a joiner to make a storage drawer to pull out at the foot of the bath. The timber bath panel and the drawer face may be fluted so the drawer is 'hidden'.Pic and diagram attached. But how do I deal with the top of the frame. I was thinking, if I support the tub from below, I can cut a hole in backer board, drop the tub in, tape the backer board to the bottom of the bath rim and then tile with mosaic tiles all around the rim of the bath - over the top of the tape. Does this make any sense and will it be watertight? I won't be doing any of this myself but I want to find if the proposal is feasible. Thanks
  5. Hello, found my way here after searching for info on upgrading water mains as part of a family home renovation. I find it difficult to get builders/trade around for quotes and when they do turn up, they don't bother doing the quote. In 5 weeks I've had 1 quote, from the first builder that turned up, it's like pulling teeth, many can't be bothered. Not sure why. I've got planning permission, I've got drawings, I know what I want for most things. I've got a garage conversion, kitchen and bathroom refit. I'll probably have the heating upgraded too. Much be some profit there for someone. Anyway, this isn't supposed to be a rant.
  6. Title says it all really - I was wondering if anyone had any real world experience (good/bad/indifferent) with progressive mixer taps? These taps control all temp and flow in a single movement. They start cold, increase flow, then mix hot into full flow, then end up full flow full hot. I can’t work out whether this is intuitive and useful in practice or is confusing compared to standard 3 axis mixers. They make for a nicer looking tap in my opinion but form over function is useless!
  7. Our bath will be freestanding, maybe about 50 - 100 mm away from the wall at most. We wanted some LED lights on the wall behind and below the bath for the occasional chilled out soak . Our M&E guy was going to send us a link to some lights that he thought would do the job well but we didn't get that. I'm pretty sure that something like this is what he had in mind. They are decking lights and IP67 rated. It seems like a great idea to me but how would we do it? I know almost zip about electrickery. At the moment we have a grey cable coming through a hole in the plasterboard that is for LED lights. Do we just: 1. Cut the string of lights off from the transformer. 2. Join that string of lights to the in situ cable. 3. Find the other end of the in situ cable and attach the transformer to that. 4. Plug in. Switch on. Chill out? Or is it way more complicated than that? Help appreciated ?
  8. Today was our four year wedding anniversary. It was also Day 1 of the builders starting promptly at 730am and as we got the day off work we decided to leave them to it and escape. Since the cancelled Ideal Home show and home associated birthday plans in March I've been online adding things to my ever growing Pinterest board and my particular obsession has been a bath and although we had done some browsing before lockdown I hadn't seen anything that really caught my eye. My wife concerned with the ever growing board of bath pictures offered today to go and look at some. So heading north commenced our bathroom shopping with a list of places to visit, mainly ex display showroom baths. No posh anniversary meals, stopping for cheese and beetroot sandwiches I'd made to take with us (who said romance was dead)? Lots of baths later and still not fully decided and the threat of with 'we aren't coming back again' we get to our final stop in Bradford. I'd had a notification en route from eBay saying it had been reduced further and 'you are not haggling' resulted in me haggling a bit more discount too and the tap thrown in as well (the wife had walked out at this point leaving me to it). Managed to get it in the Jeep with about 10mm spare (I'm sure there is a joke somewhere a out how many people it takes to fit a bath into a Jeep). So, Happy Anniversary - we bought each other a bath! Here is the bath modelled by me - safely home in our garage. Just caught the builders - that big hole in the last post. It's no longer a hole.
  9. Hi everyone, We’re going to have our bathroom refitted in the very near future and we’ve decided we’d like a spa bath and a digital shower (not pumped but digitally controlled) Bath: https://www.thewhirlpoolbathshop.com/single-ended-baths/aquaestil-plane-solo-14-jet-whirlpool-bath shower: https://www.plumbworld.co.uk/mira-platinum-digital-shower-dual-concealed-101375-27988 I’ll have an electrician out to install the power but I wondered if anyone had any experience with this type of electrical install? The sort of cost to expect would be great too, we’re in south east London so a rough figure would be good as I’d rather not be overcharged! I’m assuming that the electric will be taken from the plug socket in the bedroom next door, drilled through into the bathroom and then run through an RCD and isolator? Is it possible to have an isolator in the bathroom on a pull cord above the door? (Please remember I’ve no experience of this and am not doing it myself, the bathroom is going to need to be replastered too and I want to make sure I have some knowledge for when an electrician visits for hiding of cables etc). Can the digital shower unit be installed under the bath? The Mira documentation says it can but it doesn’t seem right to me? Will there need to be more than one isolator with the electrics with different power going to two different pieces of electronics? It’s only a small bathroom and we’re going to have a small stud wall fitted to conceal the pipes for the wall mounted shower. Thanks in advance, any insight you can give me would be very much appreciated. Robbie.
  10. Need advice please: FF bathroom is due to have a square(-ish) bathtub (1050x1250mm, 600mm deep). Total water capacity 428l. Users will be above 110kg. Now the floor structure is timber joists N. G2,47*250mm Grade C24@0.40mCTRS (taken from SE plans). We've made that double joists, bolted together. The new builder (we've had a change of builders this months, don't ask...) says it would probably need a metal plate support on top of joists to ensure the full bathtub does not cause joists movement. Architect says maybe not. Any opinion please?
  11. Can anyone recommend a good extractor fan for a wetroom? All the ones I have seen before are either noisy or let lots of air into the room, with rather negates the heating we are putting in. I have been looking at this one. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Envirovent-SIL100T-Silent-Bathroom-Extractor/dp/B0080XNKQ0/ref=asc_df_B0080XNKQ0/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=272030589264&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8883313418220292830&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006515&hvtargid=pla-521450556954&psc=1 It is important that it does not allow cold air in so must have a good back draugh shutter. Any recommendations or advice? The elctrician is coming soon for first fix so I'd like to be able to tell him what we plan to use. thank you.
  12. I'm viewing some flats just now (built 1970) for my 85 year old Mum and am looking for some guidance re ventilating the bathroom in the flat she's really keen on buying (Flat A). Sorry if this is a bit long-winded, but it’s the only way that I can describe the situation. I just need to know what my options are before I put the offer in.The property is in Scotland (just in case regs are different). The building is 2 storeys high and Flat A is a top floor property, with a flat roof. The bathroom dimensions are 7’ x 7’ approximately. There is a shower over a bath, loo and wash hand basin. If successful with buying Flat A, I would be taking out the bath and replacing it with a walk-in shower. The bathroom does not have any outside walls. It has been wet walled and a new ceiling has been installed and fitted with spots. The wall opposite the bathroom door is an outside wall.I know from viewing another top floor flat (Flat B) at the opposite end of the building that there was a horrible domed skylight in it’s bathroom ceiling. This could be opened by putting a pole into a tube attached to skylight, thus ventilating the bathroom. I’m presuming that this set up is the same as that above the new ceiling in Flat A.Back in Flat A, through the bathroom wall on the side opposite the long edge of the bath, is a deep walk in cupboard accessed from the hall. In this cupboard, at the far end, it has been boxed in (floor to ceiling) with wet wall. There are two square holes cut into this (about 4”x4”) set about 4 feet and 4.5 feet off the ground, but the holes are not aligned one above the other. They’re offset by about 4”. The Estate Agent thinks that's where the stopcock might be located. Being completely non-technical I didn't even think to check. There is a hatch to the roof void in this cupboard, but as far as I’m aware it’s not a very high space, so don’t think a person could get up inside it to work in it.Through the wall, at the short end of the bath, is a shallow linen cupboard. This is also accessed from the hall and contains the shower's (over the bath) electrical switch.Can anyone please provide any suggestions (not horribly expensive) for the best way of venting the bathroom. For example, could a ceiling fan be installed with some sort of ducting running across the new ceiling and roof void to the wall outside. Would simply fitting a fan on to this outside wall be of any use, by at least removing some of the moisture that will come out the bathroom into the hall? I would be employing a company to do the work, probably the same one who would replace the bath with a walk-in shower. Look forward to receiving the benefit of your knowledge ??
  13. Hi folks. I am helping my old Mum buy a flat and am looking for some help with bathroom ventilation, and possibly other issues, if the sale goes ahead. I will post about that in the appropriate forum shortly, so appreciate being able to tap into your collective knowledge and advice. We're in Bonnie Scotland ?
  14. Hello We have just completed our extension where we have moved our existing kitchen into the extended part of the house. The original plan was to make our existing galley kitchen into 2 small rooms, utility and shower room (shower, toilet and sink). We have decided to not have the shower so considered keeping the room as 1 and having the utility and toilet/sink altogether. As this room will be directly attached to the kitchen (although toilet on the opposite side of the 4m long room) would this satisfy BR? It's not ideal but also dont want the expense and feeling as though we have 2 tiny rooms if we don't need to. Thanks in advance for any advise.
  15. This summer I need to have my upstairs bathroom refurbished. It was installed 12 yeas ago by the previous house owner, who also did the self-build addition of an upper storey to the previous bungalow. The bathroom has lots of lovely features including electric ufh, and a long crack all the way down a row of tiles. I think the room pretty much needs gutting, as the problem is probably under the floor, which is a huge pity because the fittings are so pleasant. I think, however, that I may be able to retain the wall tiles, and perhaps reuse the existing shower screen (which looks expensive to replace). The requirements are: 1 - Fix floor, replace ufh and retile. 2 - Replace wetroom area with large shower, perhaps with storage area (I really do not need a 2.6m x 1.1m shower). 3 - Add bath. 4 - Replace loo with something a little less temperamental. 5 - Replace whb with one with more space for bottles and things, possibly a vanity unit. I have a couple of months to think about this, so any comments would be very welcome. Here is the crack: My verdict on that crack is that the subfloor may have been done with 8x4 sheets of standard chipboard, rather than tongue and groove, and that moisture has got in and made the joint expand. There are also a couple of other cracks at right angles, and the wetroom area is suffering a little. Here are a few snapshots of the room, including some excellent tiling on a hipped corner. First a simplified layout and 3d: Where it fits: Inside of dormer window: Whb and towel rail: Loo (the blotches are as a result of compressing the photo): The wetroom area: As I say, this is one to chew on ... so any comments are welcome.
  16. Dear all, does anyone know of an equivalent to DIY Kitchens.com that produce bathroom cabinets? Don't really like what's on offer around us & the bespoke quotes we've had are a little higher than I feel comfortable paying. Cheers CC44
  17. We are installing a downstairs toilet in our extension but it will be 12 meters from the drain and the drop is only 1meter deep! Will this be enough to flush and not cause problems in the future or do i need a pump installed? Help!!!!
  18. Elsewhere I have talked about my project this year to upgrade my two bathrooms. One aim is to have 2 showers that can be run simultaneously. I have a big Combi that is well able to do it heat wise. My current flow measurement at the cold kitchen tap on full is about 9-10l per minute. I may have scope to up the pressure slightly. I am happy to embrace eg shower heads which use less water. There will be one electric and one mixer showers. The plumber has initially recommended a boost pump, rather than the accumulator I was think about. Can anyone comment on pros and cons, and any measurements I need to make to help making the best decision. Thanks Ferdinand
  19. I was looking online at tile trims for the ensuite that we are renovating. I am thinking that a square edge tile trim would be nice, to make a feature of them. however, I just saw these - LED square edge tile trims! Has anyone used them and are they any good? I am wondering how they are powered? Would they need a transformer somewhere?? Any hints on how I could use them to give a little wow factor in my fairly boring ensuite..... https://www.premiumtiletrim.co.uk/product/squarelight-led-square-edge-tile-trim-by-dural
  20. Well it is nothing drastically stunning like some of the tiling jobs i have seen on here. but i DO have 2 bathrooms to do in our self build ...not so big about 2x3M each Its ONLY the floor ...as I will get a REAL tradesman to do the little ones on the wall. But i need to get these done to fit the sanitary ware etc and i thought i would "have a go" So.... the floors are 22mm Structural Ply ..solid as a rock they are .... but just in case (and lookig at Youtube advice) I have bought some 6mm Hardbacker and I will screw this down on thinfix to the floor for added stability I had planned to then just use my flexible adhesive to fix the tiles and flexible grout to finish and VOILA..done! but a tradesman (Joiner) said i should really "tank" the floor ...hmmm. I am already adding 6-8mm for the hardback and thinset and then say another 6-7mm for the adhesive and they are a 10mm tile to boot!! ...So I am already into quite a transition from the carpet and thick underlay planned for the landing. what do you think he meant by "tanking" ...I mean I was already thinking of slapping some PVA on the floor before the thinset and hardback ..or would this hurt adhesion I mean i thought tanking was for cellars, wetrooms or swimming pools ..I mean how much water can splash out of a bath when me and the wife get in ? ...not at the same time ....cheeky!
  21. CC45

    Bathroom led's

    Hi all, while I wait for a few items to arrive I thought I'd get some 2nd fix electrics done - the one area I'm not sure on are the bathroom led's. I've bought cheap ones in the past and while I've not had any real probs with then, I'd be happy to go a bit more upmarket for the bathroom - so does anyone have some good recommendations for led's suitable for fitting into bathrooms. Thanks in advance.
  22. One rather nasty thing that was fitted to our old house when we bought it, was a single socket inside a cupboard in the bathroom, about 3m from Zone One. The previous owners had a small (500mm wide) tumbler dryer in there, apparently, as there was a vent pipe that ran up and directly into the loft space (!) when we bought the place. Given the house doesn't have an RCD, I replaced the socket years ago with one with the built in RCD, and whilst aware that it was borderline with the regs, it's been handy to have access to power in there. Now it's time to sell, I've been debating taking it out. The problem is that the cable was put in when the house was built, so is on the main ring final and chased into the wall. To do a proper removal job means taking the cables out of the wall, reconnecting the ring final in the loft above and then making good. Strictly speaking, this socket is probably legal, as there's no way that water can get sprayed on it (it's at the back of a 600mm deep floor to ceiling cupboard), it's protected by an RCD and it's more than 3m from the bath/shower. However, I personally don't like it, and although our surveyor never picked it up when we bought the house (despite the tumble dryer being fitted at the time of his survey) I'm acutely aware that things are a lot tighter now when it comes to surveys. I've contemplated fitting an (admittedly ugly) IP66 socket box in there, fitted with the existing RCD single socket. Technically I think that should be legal, notwithstanding the fact that I still don't like it, but if anything the IP66 housing would make it more noticeable. I'm tempted to just leave it as it is and put some stuff on the shelf that's now just below it so that it can't be seen when the surveyor comes around, and let the purchaser deal with it if they feel they need to. Anyone any thoughts?
  23. I have attached photos of a extractor fan from a bathroom, its not working, any advice like make etc would be great. Going through to Edinburgh to visit my daughter at her rented flat where the fan is. I said I would have a look at it. Many thanks.
  24. Hi folks, Tiling a bathroom basics! I'm looking at the 1st floor bathroom floor as my next project. It's currently laid with old vinyl tiles and experienced a flood in the last year so it knobbly and uneven. I've been checking youtube videos and wanted to see how much work I'm letting myself in for and how long the bathroom would be out of action for. It's not a big space - 1.7m x 2.3m in total (including the bath). My main questions are as follows: Will I have to remove the toilet and wash basin? Or can I cut tiles around them? What should I place on top of the timber floor and beneath the tiles - plywood? One big strip or layers? Anything else? Should I just do the floor or go further? The box behind the toilet got wet when the cistern flooded the room....not sure if I want to open that up.... Is it ok to tile up to the existing skirting and finish with silicone? Should I remove or trim the skirting to get tiles underneath? Porcelain, textured tiles I hear are best to provide some grip on a wet surface? Any tile recommendations? Is silicone against the plastic bath siding ok or should I tile that area to? A friend suggested using magnets to create a removeable siding feature there. The Bath does flex however which pushes down on the plastic panel.... I think that's it - this will give me an idea of what I'm taking on or if I need to grow more hair first....!! Thanks.
  25. Note these are Grant Westfield multipanels not AB Multipanels - AB Building Products are a large distributor in the South West. See this post. I am planning to use the AB Multipanels to line my bath alcove in the Little Brown Bungalow. So far, so good. However, I may want to adapt it to be a shower in say 10 years, and that the price of the panels is quite high at £145 or so for an 8x4 in the standard finishes before you even start getting into trims and fixings. I only need 3 but that will be perhaps 1/3 of the cost of the (reasonably posh) bathroom. Is there any reason why I cannot fit full height uncut panels such that later on the bath can simply be hoicked out and a suitably sized shower installed - eg if a tenant can no longer climb into the bath? Considerations are: Sealing the bath to the panels in a way which is suitable, and can be removed later. Given that both are rigid this should be possible. Installing the shower over the bath now in a way that will not require changes later. Detailing the bottom edge of the panels - probably involving having them a suitable distance off the floor now to allow for a shower tray later. Comments are welcome. Ferdinand
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