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Found 27 results

  1. Today was our four year wedding anniversary. It was also Day 1 of the builders starting promptly at 730am and as we got the day off work we decided to leave them to it and escape. Since the cancelled Ideal Home show and home associated birthday plans in March I've been online adding things to my ever growing Pinterest board and my particular obsession has been a bath and although we had done some browsing before lockdown I hadn't seen anything that really caught my eye. My wife concerned with the ever growing board of bath pictures offered today to go and look at some. So heading north commenced our bathroom shopping with a list of places to visit, mainly ex display showroom baths. No posh anniversary meals, stopping for cheese and beetroot sandwiches I'd made to take with us (who said romance was dead)? Lots of baths later and still not fully decided and the threat of with 'we aren't coming back again' we get to our final stop in Bradford. I'd had a notification en route from eBay saying it had been reduced further and 'you are not haggling' resulted in me haggling a bit more discount too and the tap thrown in as well (the wife had walked out at this point leaving me to it). Managed to get it in the Jeep with about 10mm spare (I'm sure there is a joke somewhere a out how many people it takes to fit a bath into a Jeep). So, Happy Anniversary - we bought each other a bath! Here is the bath modelled by me - safely home in our garage. Just caught the builders - that big hole in the last post. It's no longer a hole.
  2. Need advice please: FF bathroom is due to have a square(-ish) bathtub (1050x1250mm, 600mm deep). Total water capacity 428l. Users will be above 110kg. Now the floor structure is timber joists N. G2,47*250mm Grade C24@0.40mCTRS (taken from SE plans). We've made that double joists, bolted together. The new builder (we've had a change of builders this months, don't ask...) says it would probably need a metal plate support on top of joists to ensure the full bathtub does not cause joists movement. Architect says maybe not. Any opinion please?
  3. Can anyone recommend a good extractor fan for a wetroom? All the ones I have seen before are either noisy or let lots of air into the room, with rather negates the heating we are putting in. I have been looking at this one. It is important that it does not allow cold air in so must have a good back draugh shutter. Any recommendations or advice? The elctrician is coming soon for first fix so I'd like to be able to tell him what we plan to use. thank you.
  4. I'm viewing some flats just now (built 1970) for my 85 year old Mum and am looking for some guidance re ventilating the bathroom in the flat she's really keen on buying (Flat A). Sorry if this is a bit long-winded, but it’s the only way that I can describe the situation. I just need to know what my options are before I put the offer in.The property is in Scotland (just in case regs are different). The building is 2 storeys high and Flat A is a top floor property, with a flat roof. The bathroom dimensions are 7’ x 7’ approximately. There is a shower over a bath, loo and wash hand basin. If successful with buying Flat A, I would be taking out the bath and replacing it with a walk-in shower. The bathroom does not have any outside walls. It has been wet walled and a new ceiling has been installed and fitted with spots. The wall opposite the bathroom door is an outside wall.I know from viewing another top floor flat (Flat B) at the opposite end of the building that there was a horrible domed skylight in it’s bathroom ceiling. This could be opened by putting a pole into a tube attached to skylight, thus ventilating the bathroom. I’m presuming that this set up is the same as that above the new ceiling in Flat A.Back in Flat A, through the bathroom wall on the side opposite the long edge of the bath, is a deep walk in cupboard accessed from the hall. In this cupboard, at the far end, it has been boxed in (floor to ceiling) with wet wall. There are two square holes cut into this (about 4”x4”) set about 4 feet and 4.5 feet off the ground, but the holes are not aligned one above the other. They’re offset by about 4”. The Estate Agent thinks that's where the stopcock might be located. Being completely non-technical I didn't even think to check. There is a hatch to the roof void in this cupboard, but as far as I’m aware it’s not a very high space, so don’t think a person could get up inside it to work in it.Through the wall, at the short end of the bath, is a shallow linen cupboard. This is also accessed from the hall and contains the shower's (over the bath) electrical switch.Can anyone please provide any suggestions (not horribly expensive) for the best way of venting the bathroom. For example, could a ceiling fan be installed with some sort of ducting running across the new ceiling and roof void to the wall outside. Would simply fitting a fan on to this outside wall be of any use, by at least removing some of the moisture that will come out the bathroom into the hall? I would be employing a company to do the work, probably the same one who would replace the bath with a walk-in shower. Look forward to receiving the benefit of your knowledge 😃🤞
  5. Hi folks. I am helping my old Mum buy a flat and am looking for some help with bathroom ventilation, and possibly other issues, if the sale goes ahead. I will post about that in the appropriate forum shortly, so appreciate being able to tap into your collective knowledge and advice. We're in Bonnie Scotland 😁
  6. Hello We have just completed our extension where we have moved our existing kitchen into the extended part of the house. The original plan was to make our existing galley kitchen into 2 small rooms, utility and shower room (shower, toilet and sink). We have decided to not have the shower so considered keeping the room as 1 and having the utility and toilet/sink altogether. As this room will be directly attached to the kitchen (although toilet on the opposite side of the 4m long room) would this satisfy BR? It's not ideal but also dont want the expense and feeling as though we have 2 tiny rooms if we don't need to. Thanks in advance for any advise.
  7. This summer I need to have my upstairs bathroom refurbished. It was installed 12 yeas ago by the previous house owner, who also did the self-build addition of an upper storey to the previous bungalow. The bathroom has lots of lovely features including electric ufh, and a long crack all the way down a row of tiles. I think the room pretty much needs gutting, as the problem is probably under the floor, which is a huge pity because the fittings are so pleasant. I think, however, that I may be able to retain the wall tiles, and perhaps reuse the existing shower screen (which looks expensive to replace). The requirements are: 1 - Fix floor, replace ufh and retile. 2 - Replace wetroom area with large shower, perhaps with storage area (I really do not need a 2.6m x 1.1m shower). 3 - Add bath. 4 - Replace loo with something a little less temperamental. 5 - Replace whb with one with more space for bottles and things, possibly a vanity unit. I have a couple of months to think about this, so any comments would be very welcome. Here is the crack: My verdict on that crack is that the subfloor may have been done with 8x4 sheets of standard chipboard, rather than tongue and groove, and that moisture has got in and made the joint expand. There are also a couple of other cracks at right angles, and the wetroom area is suffering a little. Here are a few snapshots of the room, including some excellent tiling on a hipped corner. First a simplified layout and 3d: Where it fits: Inside of dormer window: Whb and towel rail: Loo (the blotches are as a result of compressing the photo): The wetroom area: As I say, this is one to chew on ... so any comments are welcome.
  8. Dear all, does anyone know of an equivalent to DIY that produce bathroom cabinets? Don't really like what's on offer around us & the bespoke quotes we've had are a little higher than I feel comfortable paying. Cheers CC44
  9. We are installing a downstairs toilet in our extension but it will be 12 meters from the drain and the drop is only 1meter deep! Will this be enough to flush and not cause problems in the future or do i need a pump installed? Help!!!!
  10. Elsewhere I have talked about my project this year to upgrade my two bathrooms. One aim is to have 2 showers that can be run simultaneously. I have a big Combi that is well able to do it heat wise. My current flow measurement at the cold kitchen tap on full is about 9-10l per minute. I may have scope to up the pressure slightly. I am happy to embrace eg shower heads which use less water. There will be one electric and one mixer showers. The plumber has initially recommended a boost pump, rather than the accumulator I was think about. Can anyone comment on pros and cons, and any measurements I need to make to help making the best decision. Thanks Ferdinand
  11. I was looking online at tile trims for the ensuite that we are renovating. I am thinking that a square edge tile trim would be nice, to make a feature of them. however, I just saw these - LED square edge tile trims! Has anyone used them and are they any good? I am wondering how they are powered? Would they need a transformer somewhere?? Any hints on how I could use them to give a little wow factor in my fairly boring ensuite.....
  12. Well it is nothing drastically stunning like some of the tiling jobs i have seen on here. but i DO have 2 bathrooms to do in our self build ...not so big about 2x3M each Its ONLY the floor I will get a REAL tradesman to do the little ones on the wall. But i need to get these done to fit the sanitary ware etc and i thought i would "have a go" So.... the floors are 22mm Structural Ply ..solid as a rock they are .... but just in case (and lookig at Youtube advice) I have bought some 6mm Hardbacker and I will screw this down on thinfix to the floor for added stability I had planned to then just use my flexible adhesive to fix the tiles and flexible grout to finish and VOILA..done! but a tradesman (Joiner) said i should really "tank" the floor ...hmmm. I am already adding 6-8mm for the hardback and thinset and then say another 6-7mm for the adhesive and they are a 10mm tile to boot!! ...So I am already into quite a transition from the carpet and thick underlay planned for the landing. what do you think he meant by "tanking" ...I mean I was already thinking of slapping some PVA on the floor before the thinset and hardback ..or would this hurt adhesion I mean i thought tanking was for cellars, wetrooms or swimming pools ..I mean how much water can splash out of a bath when me and the wife get in ? ...not at the same time ....cheeky!
  13. CC45

    Bathroom led's

    Hi all, while I wait for a few items to arrive I thought I'd get some 2nd fix electrics done - the one area I'm not sure on are the bathroom led's. I've bought cheap ones in the past and while I've not had any real probs with then, I'd be happy to go a bit more upmarket for the bathroom - so does anyone have some good recommendations for led's suitable for fitting into bathrooms. Thanks in advance.
  14. One rather nasty thing that was fitted to our old house when we bought it, was a single socket inside a cupboard in the bathroom, about 3m from Zone One. The previous owners had a small (500mm wide) tumbler dryer in there, apparently, as there was a vent pipe that ran up and directly into the loft space (!) when we bought the place. Given the house doesn't have an RCD, I replaced the socket years ago with one with the built in RCD, and whilst aware that it was borderline with the regs, it's been handy to have access to power in there. Now it's time to sell, I've been debating taking it out. The problem is that the cable was put in when the house was built, so is on the main ring final and chased into the wall. To do a proper removal job means taking the cables out of the wall, reconnecting the ring final in the loft above and then making good. Strictly speaking, this socket is probably legal, as there's no way that water can get sprayed on it (it's at the back of a 600mm deep floor to ceiling cupboard), it's protected by an RCD and it's more than 3m from the bath/shower. However, I personally don't like it, and although our surveyor never picked it up when we bought the house (despite the tumble dryer being fitted at the time of his survey) I'm acutely aware that things are a lot tighter now when it comes to surveys. I've contemplated fitting an (admittedly ugly) IP66 socket box in there, fitted with the existing RCD single socket. Technically I think that should be legal, notwithstanding the fact that I still don't like it, but if anything the IP66 housing would make it more noticeable. I'm tempted to just leave it as it is and put some stuff on the shelf that's now just below it so that it can't be seen when the surveyor comes around, and let the purchaser deal with it if they feel they need to. Anyone any thoughts?
  15. I have attached photos of a extractor fan from a bathroom, its not working, any advice like make etc would be great. Going through to Edinburgh to visit my daughter at her rented flat where the fan is. I said I would have a look at it. Many thanks.
  16. Hi folks, Tiling a bathroom basics! I'm looking at the 1st floor bathroom floor as my next project. It's currently laid with old vinyl tiles and experienced a flood in the last year so it knobbly and uneven. I've been checking youtube videos and wanted to see how much work I'm letting myself in for and how long the bathroom would be out of action for. It's not a big space - 1.7m x 2.3m in total (including the bath). My main questions are as follows: Will I have to remove the toilet and wash basin? Or can I cut tiles around them? What should I place on top of the timber floor and beneath the tiles - plywood? One big strip or layers? Anything else? Should I just do the floor or go further? The box behind the toilet got wet when the cistern flooded the room....not sure if I want to open that up.... Is it ok to tile up to the existing skirting and finish with silicone? Should I remove or trim the skirting to get tiles underneath? Porcelain, textured tiles I hear are best to provide some grip on a wet surface? Any tile recommendations? Is silicone against the plastic bath siding ok or should I tile that area to? A friend suggested using magnets to create a removeable siding feature there. The Bath does flex however which pushes down on the plastic panel.... I think that's it - this will give me an idea of what I'm taking on or if I need to grow more hair first....!! Thanks.
  17. Note these are Grant Westfield multipanels not AB Multipanels - AB Building Products are a large distributor in the South West. See this post. I am planning to use the AB Multipanels to line my bath alcove in the Little Brown Bungalow. So far, so good. However, I may want to adapt it to be a shower in say 10 years, and that the price of the panels is quite high at £145 or so for an 8x4 in the standard finishes before you even start getting into trims and fixings. I only need 3 but that will be perhaps 1/3 of the cost of the (reasonably posh) bathroom. Is there any reason why I cannot fit full height uncut panels such that later on the bath can simply be hoicked out and a suitably sized shower installed - eg if a tenant can no longer climb into the bath? Considerations are: Sealing the bath to the panels in a way which is suitable, and can be removed later. Given that both are rigid this should be possible. Installing the shower over the bath now in a way that will not require changes later. Detailing the bottom edge of the panels - probably involving having them a suitable distance off the floor now to allow for a shower tray later. Comments are welcome. Ferdinand
  18. Wow, I cannot believe its 4 months since the last blog entry. Life has just been busy, busy, busy and for a while, there didnt seem to be much to report, even though we have been busy. The bedrooms have been plastered and painted, skirting fixed and the bedrooms doors have been bought and are awaiting fixing. The best thing was finally gettitng the bathroom fitted. Its been a while since we had a working loo and while the 'portaloo' in the cellar was adequate, the new one is fab! Fist we had to rebuild the walls which was a shame as the middle room has looked great with all that space. Then we addede 9mmply (I think) which covered all the chipboard joins and gave it rigidity. Sealed with pva and screwed down. Although there are joins on the left hand side, these are going to be under the units and bath so we arent worried about them. The main part is all one for the lino to cover. The bath was one of the smallest we could find, 150cm long and we extended the side wall into the middle room to fit it in without having to dig into the exterior wall to fit it in, although fitting it was a PITA. AS always, the OH soon had it all fittd and I could start the tiling. having looked round at showrooms, we went for couple of vertical mosiacs, one opp the loo so you can see your relection!, and the other above the bath, along the shower line. They look smart although I did have some issues as they are a thinner tile than the rest and it took a bit of time to get it right. The loo was a bit of a pain as we didnt really have many options for its location due to the plumbing already in place, but then we had to get the waste through the floor avoiding the floori beams, which of course were directly where he wanted to go. So he had to use a side bendy thing to mive the waste a few inches to the left. Its not perfect but it works and once the sink was in, it was not too noticable. We're quite pleased with the final look - sorry about the photo's - its hard to get a decent picture of such a small room. But its almost finished, just a couple of little touch ups with the sealant and a glass screen. Even the radiator is up and running. still needs a door! but a curtain works for now. Upstairs the walls were plastered and painted and I'm very pleased with the look. The lounge has also been done and the ceiling repaired from the foot through it - you cant see where it happened. Am very happy with the plasterers apart from the mess they make! I spent a couple of hours cleaning the stairs, ready for painting the edge, only for the OH to paint the walls and not bother cleaning off the excess off the wood, so I had to do it all over again! But after filling and rubbing down the wood, I have undercoated the sides of the stairs ready for the final coat and the carpet. Its not briliant but as the wood is probably over a hundred years old, the buyer will have to accept the odd bump and crack that I couldnt cover. Here are before and after shots. So what else? Here's the lounge with the lights fitted and working. the skirting is cut and just needs to be fixed and I ahve the coving to put up - going for a polyeuythene one from Screwfix which had excellent reviews as its very lightweight and easy to cut. I shall let you know how it goes as i have ever done coving before. We had a chap in yesterday to come up with a plan for the kitchen. As it is such as small space, we wanted to get some ideas to add to the layout that we have come up with. We have gone for Howdens as they are very reasonably priced and they have a sale on now so hopefully we can get a really good price. But thats for the next blog post - I'll have finished the garden wall then too so more photo's. Its all coming together now but still seems to be taking ages to get to that finishing line. I guess we'll ge there, when we get there, no good rushing and making a mess.
  19. Due to space constraints I want to put an electric towel rail on the wall at the end of the bath. Obviously that's going to be Zone 1. An IPX4 electric rail doesn't seem to hard to find but is it acceptable to use a flex outlet plate sealed with silicone to achieve the required protection? I can't seem to find an internal IPX4 rated flex plate? Thoughts?
  20. Hi all, We got our bathroom redone a couple of months ago, and the walls were replastered and repainted. Just recently, bubbles have started appearing just on one section of the walls. They only appear after showers, and when the bathroom has cooled down the bubbles disappear. Our contractor is insisting that he's never seen this problem before, and that he had paid for quality bathroom paint for the painter. Can anyone advise what could have caused it? Wrong paint / primer / waiting times not sufficient? I attach a photo below, I hope it's clear enough. Many thanks in advance.
  21. Our en-suite and main bathroom will both be wet rooms. I have identified the wet room formers for the 2 shower areas, they are 22mm thick, but for reasons of budget (lack of) I am not buying them yet. I do however want to floor most of the rooms. So what 22mm thick floor boarding for a wet room, suspended on Posijoists at 600mm centres? Is it as simple as P5 chipboard, or something more exotic?
  22. So, tempted by a combination of aesthetics, storage, and the ability to hide away all my ugly plumbing, has led me to consider moving away from a basic suite and towards fitted bathroom units. The layout is: basin, WC, and large walk-in shower. Room size 1600x2400. What's really caught my eye so far is this range: Shame they're at the other end of the country- it would probably cost a fortune to get these fully assembled cabinets and pottery shipped up here. I've had a gander at the main DIY sheds in Inverness, but I've seen nothing insipiring- just plain white boxes. I do have other options such as Howdens and Willie Wilsons, but my experience of these places is that they can be neither customer friendly nor cheap. Wondering if there's any other options out that I might not have considered? Cheers
  23. Evening all, Looking forward to finally completing battening upstairs in a couple of days - I then need to think about plumbing wastes etc So Ive been pondering on the depth of the bathroom floor. The plan is to cover the existing 18mm boards with electric ufh and then tiles, so how deep is this likely all to be? Never done anything like this before so any advice is welcome! Cheers CC
  24. While renovating our Victorian house, we need to decide whether to move the bathroom upstairs, making a larger kitchen diner downstairs. But fitting in a bath and toilet/sink upstairs is causing difficulties. To include a bath will mean moving a bedroom window and its a 600mm thick rubble wall, which sounds expensive and disruptive. One option which does work would be to just have a shower room upstairs, with no bath. (One estate agent suggested that) So we need opinions. How would you and other halves feel buying a house without a bath? Just a shower. Would it put you off? Would you want a bath? And how do you feel about the bathroom being downstairs? Is that okay? Bear in mind this is a small two bed, end terrace house so space is limited. And the likely buyers will most be a young couple buying their first home or more elderly downsizers wanting to live near the town centre. The houses are not suitable for families as it is some way off the road and everyone who has had children has moved. All opinions will be gratefully received as we cannot agree at all!
  25. I see that Wickes have shower cubicles and bathrooms etc reduced by 50% until November 22nd. It seems to apply to the instore display models, but not the cheap "suites" eg the P-baths / loos / whb packages normally displayed in the entrance. One I noticed was a "Linear washroom kit" reduced from £2500 to £1250, which includes everything except tiles incl a nice dual rainstorm plus shower head shower. In my Wickes, they are also disposing of ex-display units. There was one where somebody had paid 30% more for the ex-display unit than the current discount on the new version . They also have "kitchen units" down by half, but I can get similar quality units for well under that anyway. Imo the bathrooms are mid-range quality and perhaps worth a look at those prices. Ferdinand