PeterW

@ADLIan Thanks for taking the time to outline it as it "appears" from the outside to be a dark art which you have shed light on. On the consultation, was that public and how would anyone have known or been informed about it..? Is there any output that can be shared..??

You may struggle to get a mortgage company to accept that. Ours would accept minor amendments as agreed with the council but not a reapplication especially if the existing PP was going to expire. Land with PP is worth significantly more than land without..!

Any way you could build it as an add on to the house ..? Stone walls..? Use a doorway you've got planned and then add it on ...?

Its the chillers that cost the money on those - wall panels can be had for about £30/M in 80mm PUR faced both sides. Chillers are upwards of £1500 as my mate found out when his lad hit their game store chiller with a tractor ... wonder if you can reverse engineer one from an ASHP running in cooling mode ..??

I'll be in town tomorrow as planned - no point in making people think they have won. Whilst we haven't deployed overtly in this way for a while there has been a significant increase in plain clothes and other security across London in the past 6 months.

You will be fine as that plant room will be warm anyway ..! Insulate it well as tanks and boilers lose heat quickly. The new MVHR units are designed for cold roof spaces so as long as your main ducts are insulated - to stop condensation mainly - then you will be fine.

So it needs floor plates inside. Use the build up as per the previous post - concrete piles for the legs and fill it in from there

Ok so you can do the £1k per square metre but you are going to have to compromise. Although I hate them, dormers are a cheap way to get a room into a roof. I have 3..... Reducing to a big double pitch single storey with a steep pitch roof will give you space for less than the cost of building walls. I have 50 degree roof pitch.... Doing it yourself means just that - learn to do things such as underfloor heating, digging trenches, basic plumbing. Labour for the trades if they are on day rate and learn to make lots of tea .... Plan in for the future and make life easy. A socket or switch on every wall in a room is a pain for a plasterer and more cost for the sparks - putting a plug in a corner where it can be used both sides is not an issue but do it once. Try and keep services to stud walls and inner walls and you will save a lot in time running pipes and wires. Insist on pozijoists as they will halve the time to install and make huge time savings for the follow on trades. Looking at that design you need at least 3 soil stacks - all adds up so move it around so you end up with a services zone running down through all the floors. The ensuite looks a little odd ... no door to the toilet ..?? Kitchen island is too close to the table - 5m is about the minimum to get a decent run of cabinets and an island in without that table. If you look at yours you have cabinets (700mm) service space (1200mm) island (1100..??) and then a table which at 850mm wide leaves 1150mm for 2 chairs and someone to walk down ..? We did 4 plots and 10 designs before buying one, this one ironically coming with full PP but we adapted the outside a little and gutted the internal design which has created an additional study, a cellar and a 10sqm ensuite with a 24 sqm master bedroom. My target price per square metre ..?? I'll let you know when we are done ..!!

What is going in the barn ..?? We do barns with pads - 1/2 cube each and dug with an 18" bucket. One pad per leg, and then a shallow 8-12" trench between the legs for the panels to sit on once the frame is up. If you want a straight ag slab with capacity to take tractors etc then you need 150mm of reinforced concrete over a good 150/200 of MOT1. Anything less can go on 100/150 laid in bays with mesh per bay. Don't span the bays with rebar as it's easier to take one bay up when it needs it.

Gets my vote ..!! Anyone who has a meter more than 15m from the house is stuffed anyway as the units won't work ...

Toolstation have an offer til next week Save5may17 to get £5 off an order over £40

As @ProDave says, it's one you need space for to work so make it easy for yourself. Two slip couplings will make it easier, either use a strap boss above the branch to get the wastes in or go into the side boss but make the turn with two 45 degree bends

The ones he used are IP25 according to the information on the website but are classed as SELV as they have a transformer in the roofspace. Whilst only 15mm they need a hole through the board so the VCL would need to be able to flex above them.

I just put a couple of lengths of the UFH pipe into the slab with the end capped over with some duct tape - will feed the wire down at some point in the future ..! you can see it in this picture on the left

Tried Mike Wye as he's in your neck of the woods ..?? Good guys for all things lime based too https://www.mikewye.co.uk/product/isolair-sarking-board/

Track lighting would work - narrow stuff is 40mm

Can you not mount on the side of the beam..??

Its mix and match on internal doors

Is it ducted..? If so, you can remove it but tbh if you have posi-joists its easier in the ceilings.

Thanks Ian I think this is a lot of the issue - you (and your profession) are part of an accredited body and have a set of standards and I expect SAP is a small part of your business compared to anything else. What there are is a lot of people who did the 2 day course and "got the certificate" who have jumped on every single bandwagon that has gone through town !! A local "MCS energy assessor" near me was a "green deal assessor" before that he was a "cavity wall assessor" and I think sold double glazing.... you get the picture !

Quick-Action Stop Valve....

you may find its a flow stop valve. When you remove one part it works like a hose pipe stop valve and means you can service bits but not seen one like that for a while !

1981 x 762 mm for the door = 1994 x 768 with a 3mm margin, 10mm floor = 2024 x 828 with 30mm for the door set. Also allow 10mm either side in a new frame to square the door lining in the studwork

screw them together and blow through it from either end....

That is a Premdor Suffolk Oak - search for that and you will find it pretty much everywhere... 3 for 2 at Wickes so makes them £71.40 each No point in putting an oak frame in and painting it, just fit it to the existing frame with 3 decent bearing hinges - Ironmongery Direct have the best selection.