Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'sips'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • BuildHub Guide: Information about the site : Introduce Yourself
    • About BuildHub.org.uk
    • Introduce Yourself
  • Build Design, Planning, Finance and Legal
    • Building Plots, Land & Renovation Properties
    • House Design & Architects
    • Project Management, Costings & Tax
    • Planning Permission, Building Regulations & Legal
    • Self Build Mortgages, Warranties & Building Insurance
  • House Construction & Structural Issues
    • House Construction
    • Conversions & Extensions
    • Roofing & Lofts
    • Structural Works, Foundations & Demolition
    • Insulation & Ventilation
    • Gardens, Conservatories, Garages & Drives
    • Damp & Infestation
    • Period Property Restoration & Architectural Salvage
  • Environmental, Alternative & Green Building Methods
    • Designing Energy Efficient & Sustainable Homes
    • Renewable Home Energy Generation
    • Research & Information Sources
    • Environmental Building Politics
    • Boffin's Corner
  • Building Trades
  • Building Materials, Tools, Kitchens & Appliances
  • Self Build & DIY: General
  • Self Build Regional Groups

Blogs

  • Salamander Cottage
  • The House At Mill Orchard
  • An Orkney Build (in ICF)
  • The House at the Bottom of the Garden
  • Hawthorn House
  • Rose Lane re-build
  • East Kent Self Build
  • Wee Hoose on the Croft
  • God is in the Details
  • Tennentslager
  • Kentish RenoExtension
  • Scooby Cottage renovation.
  • The Seasalter Sharp House
  • sussexlogs
  • Sips and stones may break my bones...
  • Our Journey North of the Border
  • Construction in Cornwall
  • The Fun Irish (House)
  • A house! A house! My kingdom for a house!
  • South Devon Self Build
  • Lucy Murray
  • Coffee Towers
  • caliwag
  • caliwag
  • Blackmore House
  • A woodland house
  • Self build on Skye
  • Escarpment to the countryside
  • Christine Walker
  • Netherwood lakes
  • Kingseat
  • Mr and Mrs Triassics New Home
  • Yaffles
  • Wedding Cake Re-build
  • Clancutt Lodge
  • Self-Build in Shropshire
  • South coast ICF build
  • 5 (2 adults, 3 dogs) go building in Dorset
  • Hillcroft
  • Self Build NE Scotland

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


About Me


Location

Found 9 results

  1. Hi all, New member joining the forum but have kept a close eye on and off for the past few months, a lot of great knowledge from people here so I am pleased to be a part of it. I am 21 and about as ambitious as they come. As the title suggests, I am a first time buyer/builder. I would love to build my first house with my partner. however, as for most people, budget is a constraint and so is getting a mortgage. Although, I am very close friends with a mortgage broker and he thinks I will be just fine securing one. I know that self-build mortgages are different than usual and I am currently in contact with a self build mortgage advisor who is great and keen to help me. I have a total budget of about 150k to 160k including land. Land in my area (North Staffordshire) is not cheap nor openly available, but I am considering posting a few letters to local farmers with fields and neighbours with big gardens. I am aware of the different types of land i.e agricultural but I'm not sure if this can be converted to residential? There is a piece that is available that has got planning permission for a 3 bedroom bungalow but its listed at 85K! I want to know if I am aiming too high or if it would be possible to do with suggested building methods from you guys. I have been in contact with Potton and few others, I am aware there is a slight difference between SIP's and timber frame so I apologise if this is in the wrong thread. Within my family and very close family friends we have joiners, plumbers, electricians and just about all other trades you can think of. I have access to diggers, dumper trucks etc free of charge. We would be happy with a 2 or 3 bedroom bungalow, but we do like the idea of open plan living and kitchen space. I would welcome any suggestions for all types of houses if you think one would be more cost effective than another. My partner is a mobile hairdresser too so a small hair/utility room for her to work in would be ideal. I look forward to your replies and thank you in advance for your replies. sorry if I have been vague about anything and I appreciate this is a challenging ask, I'd appreciate your honest opinion. Thanks again Elliot
  2. Calling all people with past or current experience in timber frame and brick and block construction.  As part of my degree I am required to research a topic of my choice. My chosen area is; productivity in housebuilding. I am trying to determine why brick and block cavity wall construction still remains the most dominant method of construction for house builders. It would be much appreciated if you or anyone with experience in this field could please complete my short questionnaire. Simply click on the link below, it comprises 12 questions and will take less than 3 minutes of your time to answer. I am more than happy to share the results with anyone who would be interested The information you provide will anonymous and will be treated with the strictest confidence. Please pass on or share to anyone who would be able to help.  Thanks in advance. https://www.quicksurveys.com/tqsruntime/main?surveyData=r4lva2rxrwxQVGKkc7VdDr4ScfR0NkzsWxj1PYyl1SP0pqFJPiLmStZ659V5n7R8
  3. Calling all people with past or current experience in timber frame and traditional construction. As part of my degree I am required to research a topic of my choice. My chosen area is; productivity in housebuilding. I am trying to determine why brick and block cavity wall construction still remains the most dominant method of construction for house builders. It would be much appreciated if you or anyone with experience in this field could please complete my short questionnaire. Simply click on the link below, it comprises 12 questions and will take less than 3 minutes of your time to answer. I am more than happy to share the results with anyone who would be interested The information you provide will anonymous and will be treated with the strictest confidence. Please pass on or share to anyone who would be able to help. Thanks in advance. https://www.quicksurveys.com/tqsruntime/main?surveyData=r4lva2rxrwxQVGKkc7VdDr4ScfR0NkzsWxj1PYyl1SP0pqFJPiLmStZ659V5n7R8
  4. AliG

    Wall thickness

    Architect has set to work on sketch design for my parents' house. We are trying to limit ourselves to 20% of the plot area, which is 153square metres. I thought that this was quite comfortable until I calculated the area taken up by the external walls. We were looking for 140-150sq metres internally including a single garage, single storey. However, when I calculated the wall thickness required for around 0.15 U-Value, I realised that with 370mm thick external walls they will take up over 20square metres. This is a big chunk of our area to give up. This assumes 100mm external blockwork and a 50mm cavity then 140mm SIPs/timberframe with PIR insulation plus a service cavity. So what's the best build up to limit the wall thickness. I am guessing that we will have roughly 150square metres of floor and roof, 110 square metres of external wall and 40square metres of windows/doors. So the external walls are less than 25% of the external envelope. There is pretty much no limit on the insulation we can get in the roof and floor and we would use 3g windows at around 0.7 U-Value. It appears from @JSHarris heat loss calculator that the difference for example between 0.15 and 0.2 U-Value walls will be negligible assuming good insulation elsewhere. I did suggest that we could use render board but the architect wasn't keen. This will massively reduce the thickness of the walls. The other issue I notice is that most timber frame/SIPs systems show a cavity between the panels and the interior, if we keep all switches internal is this really necessary? Or we could use the minimum amount of insulation in the panels as it doesn't affect the overall insulation of the house much. Appreciate any thoughts, and what are the downsides of various solutions, such as external noise? I think we might just go to 22% of the plot to give us a bit of leeway but I would rather have the most efficient use of space possible. I am not too fussed about the cost as again, the external walls won't be a large percentage of the build.
  5. This is more of a comment than a question. For all that the principle of sips has been around since the 1930s, we have found a staggering level of ignorance about them from people who youwould expect better from. At first, just finding builders who were interested in doing the stonework proved problematic as some shied away or I had to explain what sips are to them, even though it's really just like doing it around timber frame. Needless to say we went no further with those ones. Then we found that even our building inspector knew nothing about them & was/is *highly* suspicious of them, querying even their approval status & forcing us to do research for him quite literally every step of the way as well as adding some silly restrictions demonsrating a complete lack of understanding of the system (at least one of which would cause quite a loss of heat if we went along with it). The most recent person has been a window company "surveyor" who has also been very reticent to deal with the build, with some weird ideas (I thus spoke to this big national window company's *senior* "surveyor" about the delays this has caused & had to actually also explain to *him* too what sips are!) At its basic it is simply a much improved form of timber frame of course, but it has been an eye opener at how narrowly educated such a wide variety of the trades are & how nervous at the thought of anything "new". Our builders have just got stuck in, it has to be said, but if I were doing this again, or was advising someone just about to, I'd say to definitely double check that your building inspector had dealt with sips before, ditto any other trades who would be coming on site to interact with the structure - not because there is any issue whatsoever with sips, (in truth a lot of things are actually far simpler with it), but because of how poorly educated the trades from BCOs onwards seem to be about anything beyond brick & block & how nervous they are about anything different & the delays this can cause due to imaginary issues they may develop.
  6. Hello from me, I'm delighted that I've stumbled upon this forum, its right up my street. I've got a 130m2 single storie, vaulted ceiling (for the most part) extension lined up to start in March next year. KingspanTek SIPS system I'm pretty hands on which most things, so having a forum I can get some answers based on real life experience is great. I've already started, I've knocked down an old rubble built stable to make way and installed a 40 ton Foulwater soakaway.
  7. I'm building one! Previous thread for reference: The project is an 8x12 garden building to be used as a standalone utility room for a small house. The ground conditions are solid - outdoor loo removed decades ago, and used as a parking space, then various bits of limestone and concrete put on there over the subsequent 3-4 decades. I personally had two lorry loads of stone put on that side. Approx half is over an existing estd. 100mm concrete slab. Elements (and budget): 1 - Basic building. A SiPs kit from Simply SIPS, which gives an insulated 8x12' kiosk faced with OSB3, with a 5ft wide doorway for £1335. 97mm SiPs with U value of 0.3. Thicker panels not required as it is not designed for full day occupation in winter. Need to fetch it from Spalding - allow £100. 2 - Doorway. I will pay between about £600 and £800 for a custom made and fitted PVCu door and glass side panel to a pair of French doors for that gap, including locks and fitting, with a U-value of 1.5 or so. 3 - Base. Either 2" concrete slabs - £1 per square foot = £100, or 2" concrete slabs on Adjustable Support Pads which will allow me to adjust things after it is built if anything moves by changing the heights. 25 support pads ~ £100. 4 - Rainscreen Cladding. Box section plastisol coated corrugated at £10 per sqm including overlaps. Area required for walls ~ 25sqm => £250. Trims and special screws and things add £100 => £350. 5 - If I choose to batten out the corrugated for air circulation then approx 50 CLS length at £1.80 each => £90 plus £10 for bits and pieces ~ £100. Or 125m of roofing lath 30p per metre ~ £50. May be a better option as this is tanalised. 6 - Roof. It comes with a 1:40 fall towards the back. EDPM membrane. Say £150 including adhesive and trims etc. 7 - Captain Belt 'n' Braces may suggest a breathable membrane round the walls under the battens. 25sqm => not very much to buy. So for the groundworks and the building we are now at £2750 or so. In addition and not included: 8 - Electricity supply requiring FCU and switch in house, then about 2m of armoured cable, garage CU for lights, a ring main to power 3/4 double sockets, a small water heater, potentially a small fan heater for short periods, and a ventilation fan. Need a real electrician as it is for a rented house. 9 - A path down the side. 10 - A privacy fence across the front. 11 - 2 men approx 2 days to build it. 12 - I hope to build it such that it can be easily dismantled and relocated. The only fly I have in the ointment is, I think, that I need to watch the height carefully wrt permitted development. Ferdinand
  8. Many thanks for the help I have got on here so far. Does anyone know where I can buy some splines for Kingspan Sips. I emailed Kingspan but I didn't get a reply.
  9. Firstly hello from Cornwall, Having browsed for the last year or so both here, GBF and on the old ebuild site I have to say what a fantastic source of info such places offer. Myself and partner are about to begin our self build I'm hoping someone can help with a particular question. Our plot is unusual in that the majority of the house is at 1st floor level (onto garden) and extends outwards from the lower level spanning an access alley between the house and a retaining wall. Because of the site elevations the upper level (where external to the lower level) will be on a B&B floor (tetris most likely) which needs to meet the lower level and sit on the outer skin of blockwork. Therefore we need to build the lower GF level in block - proposal is full fill 100mm block - 200mm glass batts - 100mm block (7n) all parge coated with a foundation detail matching Denby Dale / Golcar. Whilst I don't like block it works at supporting the upper level, is DIY able and I can focus on the detailing - sites like tonyshouse etc help greatly with this. At first floor level we want to use either timber frame or SIPS and whilst we aren't looking for passive standards (the B&B effectively kills this), efficiency is high on our list. Quite simply does any one have a detail showing a well thought out join between a cavity block lower level and timber / sips upper that focuses on air tightness and continuity of insulation? In particular I'd like to build to the outer leaf line of the lower level to maximize internal space and avoid an odd external detail at the join. External finishes are render lower GF & horizontal cedar / larch cladding 1st floor. My line of thinking was to build straight off the outer leaf but 100mm blocks won't work with 172mm SIPS which makes me think a platform construction is the way forward... Whether we opt for SIPS / timber frame (quotations are currently out and the same question is being asked to suppliers) I intend to mitigate the sole plate bridging issue with a course of thermal block under the plate plus 40mm of XPS sheathing extending 250mm above and below. Hopefully this will suffice. Please excuse the very DIY attached detail, still learning sketchup! Any help much appreciated! Josh BuildHub1.pdf