PeterW

Yep I used these guys all the time.. http://www.collatedfasteners.co.uk/duraspin-39a35mp-drywall-to-wood-screws-box-1000-i535.html

We have similar - if he used a bull float the chances are its cement slurry that has built up on the edges and its quite soft. I've taken a hand held diamond grinder to ours and they are gone in seconds....

Right... have you got an SDS drill...?? Stick an old sds chisel or drill bit into an old socket and weld it on so you have a cup on the end of an SDS adapter. Doesn't need to be pretty... Stick the SDS into the drill, whack it onto hammer only and basically use it to whack the stud out of the hole - the SDS action will be enough to move it as its a small vibration....

Yep those are the ones ...

Looks like a Steven Brown print/original https://www.stevenbrownart.co.uk/ There are a few that do that sort of thing, I have three by James Bartholomew http://www.jamesbartholomew.co.uk/prints/cow-prints.html

Are you looking for a parabola or a perfect segment...??

So..... if you aren't employing anyone and you're doing it yourself (ie @Crofter) then the HSE has no remit - they have no powers over individuals in their own home. What it sounds like is in this instance they have gone after a few soft targets. I'm not sure either they can mandate a solution, they have to accept a safe working methodology so if that is harness and hooks then it should be acceptable.

I hadn't realised that there was nothing under the jambs ..?! you need to pack under the corners with something solid - packers is fine - and then you can foam the rest of the cill. It's irrelevant as to whether you use M10 or M12, they are holding the frame square and in the opening but should not be holding it up as they aren't designed to do that.

So are the Irish regs different to the rest of the UK as I've never heard of any of that ..? Kwikstage is perfectly legal (and used extensively) without a certificate if it's constructed in accordance with the MIs and as for air bags they are only seen on large sites. Is the site registered as a build site with HSE..??

Is that 100mm PIR..? You could just change the product to a PUR foam or even vacuum panel and get better insulation for the same build up but with no issues of breaching the DPM

Read the flowchart carefully as you have to wait for certain confirmation before you start. You must get your exemption first before you send your commencement notice otherwise it's invalid.

Thanks for reminding me I need to go there later....

Any chance of adding in the additional functionality a la here..?? http://processheatingservices.com/water-heating-time-calculator/ Really useful to be able to work through the ideas of how long the immersions need to run etc

Not when they are buried ...... should only see the lid ..!!

They will only normally install in an external meter cabinet these days. Alternative is a ground box cabinet but only certain suppliers will do this and they also charge more for the meter as it's a different type.

Not necessarily the best idea although @craig can probably help here. There are sound reducing glazing units available that use heavier laminated glass or Optiphon to reduce the noise transmission.

So you're getting noise from the open door and the blower cage - you need a way of : - Ducting the air into the fan from a baffled source - stopping noise being transmitted across the yard. First one could be as simple as blocking the doorway up and using some big galvanised square ducting to go up and over the fan house roof. Square duct is easier to cover with foam or fibre to also muffle the sound. Second thing is to build a fairly heavy wall about 6ft from the fan house to deflect the noise back away from the house. Sometimes easier to get the pre-made acoustic panels they use on roadsides - you can work out where it works best then by moving it about. Its not a permanent noise source so you need to weigh up cost vs benefit anyway - decent sound insulation in the house would be a good start !

A little tip for anyone doing this .... Get a piece of 22 or 28mm armaflex or other nitrile insulation and slip it over the pipe where you want the bend and then put your knee against that ... It will give a slightly smoother bend and also not require you to have surgery on your knees in later life due to compression damage to the joint ... guess how I learnt that one ..!

Plug the old overflow properly - the correct bit of plastic is pennies and it's not worth scrimping on. Cistern Stopper Then fit a weir overflow flush mechanism and you will not have to worry again - if you're changing the filler too, go for one of the vertical float ones but watch it doesn't catch on the cistern as the tolerances are pretty slim.

Pour a pint of water onto the floor slowly where that joint is .... I think it's coming in the door frame and running into the corner

We have a valuer from the building society (@£80 a visit...) who agrees that the stages are complete and gives a valuation to release the next stage. We also have included the warranty report up to that point to show progress - no idea why but the Melton ask for it..! No architect involved ...

You can go SSE and then swap - take standard tariff. You'll be on it for 28 days at most and then get the best option for you as you will be registered in the system.

We were about 3mm out on 4.5m width and about 5mm over 15m on the length. Thats conventional brick and block and working from an old building that was far from level ...!!

Is the dryer on the top building on that plan ..??

I didn't buy the filler and I used standard Alabastine Filler from B&Q. It went over staples, screws and joints and it's never moved.