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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    So the fillets aren't required.... you need one or the other ..!
  2. PeterW
    @recoveringacademic I've re-read that post. The architect has drawn the joists flat but the insulation above is sloping. It would infer sloping insulation.
  3. PeterW
    If you put the fall in the joists then you will need to cut the end of every joist to 1:40 which will be a real challenge. The other option is to create a flat deck on top of the posijoists and use tapered insulation on the top of the deck. Means that everything is flat when constructed and then the slope is built on top. On the wallplate issue I would ask Durisol as you're relying on the compressive strength of the Durisol plus the tensile strength of the bolts.
  4. PeterW
    Hmmm.... got a hose with it ..??
  5. PeterW
    Thanks - couldn't see the double boxes that's all..!
  6. PeterW
    Thanks - couldn't see the double boxes that's all..!
  7. PeterW
    Starting first fix next week and just looking at finalising the cable etc. I've found a decent cable supplier who does Doncaster Cables at a good price but where is the best place to get back boxes ..? Where possible the plan is to fit them to noggins so I don't think I need many dry line ones. Are Appleby worth the extra ..? I'm assuming Tower are still the best clips on the market ..??
  8. PeterW
    If the council apply a community infrastructure levy or CIL charge to your approval then as a self builder you can claim exemption. The key is not starting anything on the build until the paperwork process has fully completed.
  9. PeterW
    There are a lot of misconceptions about cutting granite - it's the polishing that's the hard job ..!! Don't forget to keep the cut out bits and make a nice serving platter .....
  10. PeterW
    @vivienz did they include any of the Amica brand ones in the test..?? I've been quite impressed with their cost vs quality on a couple of things but no seen their induction offering up close.
  11. PeterW
    Are you sure that's not a mis-type..??? I'd ask a structural engineer about the padstones, as at best I would go for a Naylor 440x215x100 under each end. The rule is that when you draw a line at 45 degrees from the centre of the beam it must pass through the side of the padstone. I would never cast in situ for a steel either as you cannot guarantee the strength - it also takes 28 days to get to full compressive strength so you would be waiting a while to set the beams !
  12. PeterW
    I've used this and also "accidentally" bonded a piece of ply to a concrete floor with it - it brought the floor up before it gave way ! Can find it cheaper online if you search https://www.bambooflooringcompany.com/ever-build-lumberjack-650-14kg-flexible-wood-flooring-adhesive.html
  13. PeterW
    UFH needs a buffer or it will short cycle the boiler.
  14. PeterW
    I've got the grey Egger P5 and it's has an inch of water stood on it with no ill effects. Was open to the elements for 10 weeks and was fine. I wanted the peel off stuff but the merchant didn't stock it and the grey painted stuff was just as good. Stuck down with D4 and it's solid ....
  15. PeterW
    You should connect with a Y branch at 45 degrees to the flow - you've got one manhole at the top end of the run, a second isn't needed. Replacing that manhole will require careful planning - every connection will need to be ready to go and you need to have dug down past invert level before you block the top side flow with a plug and then work very quickly as you will be stopping a lot of flow from 4 houses...!! I'd even failsafe the plugs with one on both sides of the manhole just in case .....
  16. PeterW
    Low voltage LED ..?? if you have a timber mantle then it will have to be outside the combustible zone anyway so the LED strips should work even if they get a bit warm.
  17. PeterW
    Sorry I'm late to this one @Jml You can build over that but Thames will have a specification about building over that you have to follow. Severn Trent for example insist on either you replace all the pipework under the slab with uPVC and have a post build camera inspection or you have a camera before and after but retain the clay pipe. If you self certify the build over then they have some pretty strict rules that you need to follow - internal sealed manholes for example aren't allowed - and there have to be certain distances from boundaries. Thames produce this guide which I assume you've already read ..?? https://www.thameswater.co.uk/-/media/Site-Content/Developer-Services/Guidance-for-building-over-a-sewer.ashx?la=en&la=en You don't need a manhole at all on the run but I would make provision for rodding at least one or two points on the run - you can do this with dead legs and rodding eyes quite easily.
  18. PeterW
    Just priced one of those in 1500x 900 and pleasantly surprised. They aren't that thick so with some judicious removal of floors and tiling you can get them virtually flat to the floor.
  19. PeterW
    You can use Sika on any timber. The benefit is you decide where to treat. And you are treating for everything not just damp or rot as this treats for boring insects etc. As posijoists can't be drilled or notched then as long as you treat all surfaces then it's done for the life of the timber. All depends on cost vs time. If your time is "free" then it isn't a big job - took me about 20 mins to do about 70m of 6x2 all four sides and in situ.
  20. PeterW
    Travis Perkins is cheapest near us at £23+VAT and £10 delivery for the usual type of service. I use the local guy who did my groundworks - he is charging £20/wk and no VAT...
  21. PeterW
    Buy them untreated. You can get Sika for £30 for 5 litres of the universal one and a sprayer is £9.... that's all of them done and it's quick and you can also use it to do other stuff too.
  22. PeterW
    See if you can go direct to Sennocke - they are the ones who do ours but we had issues with the broker who really cocked up ... £2200 for warranty and building regs from memory.
  23. PeterW
    I'm going for one of these linked to the upper immersion. http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=331040175427&category=57215&pm=1&ds=0&t=1497958701000&ver=0&cspheader=1 Lower is the E7 overnight one, and hopefully with 300 litres of water we will never need to use it ..!!
  24. PeterW
    Ian - that's shite news. Apply for a couple of interest free credit cards. Get a loan. Borrow whatever you can and get it watertight then STOP ..!!! Take a couple of weeks - take stock, and look at what needs to happen. Then make a plan - a proper plan and then double every task in time. Work out what you need, and only order what you need to do the job in the next week. But most of all - ask. There is more experience and support here than you will ever need. We are here for you...
  25. PeterW
    Very tidy ..! Ikea now seem to use a short leg on their units - it's not the 150-160mm used elsewhere and gives more space. Downside is that they use a non-standard unit size so it makes fitting things that are 70 or 90cm a challenge.
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