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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    A wall ...... daft as it sounds you need to direct that noise upwards..! Baffles on the front of the shed will help as will ducting the inlet. Got a site layout plan ..?
  2. PeterW
    You'll need to chose a supplier who installs meters - SSE for example. Get the meter and a basic no contract deal then start looking for the best fixed deal you can find. Will probably be with one of the smaller suppliers but they can rarely install meters.
  3. PeterW
    Thats concerning as a uPVC frame should have steel or grp reinforcing in the sections to stop this. Most people seem to try and tighten the frame to the brickwork and find it starts to move and bend - put packers behind each hinge point and below each fixing and you will be fine. Also pack under the hinge jamb as that is the one that takes the load.
  4. PeterW
    Standard way to sort that is to use a frame extender on the hinge side - makes it so the door can properly open past 90 degrees and also allows where a door is against a wall that there is no issue with the handle hitting the wall when it's open fully
  5. PeterW
    You need a minimum of 6 frame fixings in it - should be below each hinge and directly opposite. Solid pack the hinge side top and bottom too. It could drop a bit but tbh I wouldn't as unless the cill is a trip hazard you will be cursing as it scoops up ever last bit of crap as you open it .. Top gaps can have frame extenders but we used to just put drips on them for rendered houses - thin celotex foam in the gap or use gun foam and then cut back and redo the render.
  6. PeterW
    It will fall under the non residential regs for building control which is aimed at buildings such as shops and offices. Fairly easy to find out what's needed I expect online.
  7. PeterW
    I have an island with a 200mm drop ceiling over it as it also disguises the steel that was put in to allow the removal of a wall. As it's over the island you don't notice the drop anyway as you can't walk under it.
  8. PeterW
    Most of the decent ones do it automatically - immersun has a secondary load terminal.
  9. PeterW
    If the batteries are duff then drop them in to County Battery ok Kirkby ...
  10. PeterW
    They aren't too expensive when you buy the Wavin system as if you talk to the rep you can get about £300 off the tools when you buy £300 of fittings. I don't do enough to warrant getting one as I can't use that many fittings on this build ..! I also don't like the idea of not being able to demount the fittings in future without having to put new pieces of pipe in.
  11. PeterW
    Copper and plastic fittings is fine - nothing wrong with it but it's not pretty .... I do wonder looking at that if they are temporary - odd way to pipe something up from a stopcock.
  12. PeterW
    Senco double is a good set if you want another drill. Batteries can be redone pretty quickly so not something that will be obsolete soon either
  13. PeterW
    Sounds like an argument for using one of the in roof systems from the likes of GSE or Easyroof as it not only saves you the roof covering it also saves you the frame fittings. Caveat to that is to check that they can go down to 17 degrees ...
  14. PeterW
    Composite toe caps are now seen as safer - they will deform and potentially cause a minor crush injury but they tend to revert back to their previous shape after which releases the lower digits... essentially it means they don't trap toes and cause more issues trying to remove them !
  15. PeterW
    So a BCO is going to be sorely disappointed as you can skim Fermacell but it's not needed - it meets all the class requirements for flame spread as an unfinished board so a boiler can happily hang on it with nowt else ... Fermacell will take around 20-25kg per screw without pull out. I've got rads on walls with no plugs, shelves are easy and I think there are some other bits all fine with no plug. Cost is the issue really as it's not cheap and also needs a special screw or staple to fix it to timber as they need a winged head to cut into the board. Very quick and easy to use though - I love the stuff ..!
  16. PeterW
    I wear Dickies composite boots that have had a good spray of the canvas waterproofing that you get for trainers etc. They are comfortable all day and have a decent insole. Cost about £25 online. My lad swears by a pair of V12 Rocky safety boots that once you've laced properly you can use a zip up the side (remember the old para boot zips..??!) and they are waterproof too. Nice boot, quite heavy but at £85 they are solid. I don't like trainers of any sort as I've been smacked across the ankle a number of times on site and I think the ankle support has saved me.
  17. PeterW
    Thats bad .... even for you ..!! I think this is a product looking for a problem - done properly it's easy to core in the right place and finish with a silicone fillet. This looks like it needs a much bigger hole and although it's neat, I can't see how it makes the "savings" they advertise
  18. PeterW
    A lot of this misses the key point about not how you store the heated water but when you use it. Traditionally most households use hot water in the early morning and late evening. You would need to size a tank that could provide for all of this supply at a reasonable temperature with overnight losses, and then have sufficient solar thermal to reheat the tank in the daytime. You would get negligible heating before the early morning usage so you would be reliant on gas for that. I'd hazard a guess that's around a 4-500 litre tank however the restriction will be if your solar thermal can recharge it in time.
  19. PeterW
    Third list is a standard planning list from that council. Heritage site in the top constraint would worry me - what's listed in the EH register in the area ..?
  20. PeterW
    I find it cheaper to order from MKM who then source insulation and other stuff from CCF ... which is part of the TP group ...! TP just can't compete...
  21. PeterW
    If its supply only then Wunda Trade..? Out of interest why so many zones ..? Did Begetube give you a plan ..?
  22. PeterW
    Well funny you should ask but it's about £30.... so once you've shelled out the £150 for the lifter and it's extension you're basically on a £30 for as long as you need (Highlands excepted of course)... Even easier if it's in a decent "box" made of OSB that means a cardboard one doesn't get knackered ... I may need one soon too...
  23. PeterW
    Fermacell ..?? Hardwearing, easy to cut and fix and takes paint and screws without a problem ... Heavy boards absorb sound ... Fireproof (60 mins at 15mm) too ...
  24. PeterW
    The old Self build yahoo group had one that you bought shares in .... Next tool hire for the team ..?? Board lifter ..??
  25. PeterW
    OSB should be fine - 2 layers ..?
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