PeterW
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Everything posted by PeterW
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I chickened out......until
PeterW replied to ToughButterCup's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
If you are just trying to make it watertight then go get a roll of flash band or that repair tape for gutters. Clean the loose crap off, make sure it's dry and preferably warm (blowtorch ...) then bang some tape on it, roller it down and job done .. -
You can do it with a standard hot water cylinder - just get a direct one and use the tappings with a T and that will work fine. Bear in mind though a standard tank can only do 1.5 bar - other option is an indirect tank and then run the UFH off the water stored.
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If that is your target then any of the xSHP technologies should be irrelevant as you need to look at removing the heat/cool needs and focus on the fabric. Proper PH design will leave you needing just DHW and incidental heat - a passive slab heated by a Willis immersion (a la @TerryE) will more than compensate for any losses and the slab can also even out any warm spots to cooler areas. DHW in that case would be down to something with low losses such as a sunamp unit, PV would be preferable but tbh using E7 you will be hard pushed to get the payback if you are at near zero input for heating. The £5-10k for the xSHP technology buys a lot of additional insulation and air tightness product ..!!
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Just bear in mind a pump has to terminate in a chamber and then the connection to the main sewer - you can't connect the MDPE directly to the mains. Why not look at upgrading your parents to a packaged plant and share the unit ..?
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Replace it with halon.....
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I know one of the guys who used to install these .... he has one in his garage ..! (An ex-demo unit.. ) http://www.fsesecuritysystems.co.uk/security-fog.htm It's 7 seconds from see everything to see nothing - he's also got a few halogens in there that flash randomly when it goes off and it's not a pleasant place to be ..!!
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@Nickfromwales that's what Lathams doors are - worth a look at the website as they do them in all different sizes and styles and they start with a minimum 19 point locking .... not sure what they expect them to be covering but I'm sure the one I've just got came with 8 bolts too ..! Good doors are only a deterrent - if you've got something they want, they will get to it ..! You only have to look at Hatton Garden to see that ...!
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Whereabouts are you in the U.K...? Going rate for a semi skilled labourer round here is £75 a day so around £10 an hour. Insist on PPE - had experience of far too many who just turn up in jeans and trainers ....
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Ok I know it's an odd one but ... do you have a local Eastern European shop or supermarket near you ..?? I know someone who did something similar - girl behind the counter wrote the ad for him and he got a couple of good guys in a day or two.
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Funny that - picked mine up today for another job ..!! Got there at 4:59pm, they close at 5pm but they still unlocked and even put it in the car for me. Comprehensive fitting kit - packers, bolts and drill bit included and also a T-bar for doing the bolts up. Will take some photos when it's in.
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@pocster when you say "for people to walk under" are you planning on putting this over a right of way ..?? If so you are into a whole new ballgame - PL insurance, markings, crash pads, netting and potentially an RoW diversion or closure whilst it's been installed and removed ...
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For the sleeper walls just lay them on the flat. Easier and quicker than cutting As @bassanclan says, concrete commons will help you build the levels up too at 65mm depth.
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Que..??!! What did they use ..??! Have they taken a fair bit (i.e. 2-3mm) off..? The disks alone to hire are £40...
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Depends on the usage but I either use Mapei trade premixed for quick jobs or Mapei Keraquick for decent ones. Both from Toolstation for the best price currently. Topps prices are just ..... well....... errr.... barking mad ..!!
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Hows Steves back coping with those ..?? @Vijay the block density has nothing to do with its usage - it's the strength you need to look at. For example I can buy 3.5N, 7N and 10N blocks all in lightweight or aerated form, and yet they are a third of the weight of a concrete heavy. Aerated have a thermal impact, if it's all underground stuff or bearing walls then tbh I just use what is the cheapest 7N I can find ..!!
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Hitachi quote is barking mad ... that's not a HP spec cylinder either as you need a minimum 3m2 of coil to get the full heat out of that 11kw HP. Telford UVC is £650 with the toys on it. Any ASHP for the £2500 mark will do. £1k to install Should leave you change from £5k other than the UVC it's all DIYable too. There is a Daikin on eBay currently for offers of £2500 too ...
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What's wrong with broken concrete paving slabs ...?? Got to be cheaper...!
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I thought it needed its own mixer and sprayer - it is something like a rotary mixer and screw compressor combined.
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DPP has to commence within the time limits stated in the approval document - a council can set this to any value but the shortest I've seen is 1 year (3rd extension of an existing PP) and the longest is 4 years. Commencement locks in the permission and at that point it is up to you how long it takes to finish.... Some say a self build is never finished ...!
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Any indication on price per M2 ??
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National Hire do a Leica TotalStation for £70 for a week and that will give you every single spot level including its GPS location ...... Just remember to mark a few "permanently" so that you can find them in the future without paying another £70..!
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Like @Nickfromwales I only use Hep2O - I was about to post to see who has found the cheapest pipe ..!! I normally use JTM but there are a few on eBay currently at decent prices ... I've decided against 10mm as the cost of the reducers needed to go to the toilets etc makes no benefit. If I could find a 10mm to 1/2" tap connector then I would do it in a heartbeat ...
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Nope ..! Only trees ..! Soil should be a fairly simple one for you to sort as there aren't too many things that can go wrong on a desk survey unless it's an old mine or quarry ..!
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Ouch ...!!!! I charge about £200 for the same report .... Think I need to put my rates up ....
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Welcome ..!! I'd look very carefully at retaining any structure on site - unless it's been empty for a number of years you won't count as a new build and therefore no VAT reclaim. If you retain the founds and one wall then it is OK as long as it's specifically mentioned as a condition of the Planning Permission. I calculated that we would only be £2k better off with a conversion than a full demolition when I factored in demolition and removal costs and the increase in additional fees such as SAP, air tests, etc.