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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    +1 to what @Pete said Drive bits are cheap enough to replace - I also use Senco screws as they are a little more expensive but worth every penny.
  2. PeterW
    Yep it is one and the same battery .... you can also send them your old battery and they will recore it for you.
  3. PeterW
    That Dewalt isn't the collated one - it's the bare one with just the setting drive on it from memory. You need the collate feed for it. I'd drop the £30 on that fleabay one that's up the road and then buy a new battery for it .. Senco stuff is good ....
  4. PeterW
    Buy this... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Senco-Duraspin-14-4v-auto-feed-collated-screw-gun-/272782031008?hash=item3f831378a0:g:yLIAAOSwtFtZfDkI New Batteries are £18 from County Battery, and they are bullet proof. I bought one and refurbed it with bits from the US for less than $20 Edited to add : Or this one... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SENCO-DS202-14V-DuraSpin-DS202-14V-Cordless-Collated-Screwdriver-/282622613945?hash=item41cd9ed9b9:g:EcgAAOSwLzhZniWZ
  5. PeterW
    Unlikely to get the RPM/pressure needed out of that size engine through a direct drive hydraulic pump. I have a Stiga mower with the hydro drive and tbh it's not amazing if you put a lot of load through it. You need the grunt in the pump to get anything like a decent flow and pressure for digging so 25-30hp is probably the minimum unless you want to dig a foot an hour ...
  6. PeterW
    Correct .... you could take the entire output from your CU and feed it into 24 ice cream boxes and it would be fine ....
  7. PeterW
    Go from 20mm MDPE to a 20/15 stopcock, then straight into a 15/22 copper reducer and run the rest in 22mm Negligible impact on flow as you've got a 100mm restriction at most.
  8. PeterW
    Admiral... I've got the diamond cover on my mums place as it does all the emergency call out etc and they offer combined with car insurance at a 20% discount from memory....
  9. PeterW
    Nationwide cover them, as do most of the mainstream insurers as the construction method is common these days. When they ask about walls and roofing, it is the outer cladding they are (usually) referring to. Essentially if you have part timber clad and part masonry, and a part flat roof, as long as its 50% brick and 50% tile you are fine.
  10. PeterW
    I'm just considering this and had thought about the double decker approach with the top 10 way board being main switch and all the RCBOs, and then the bottom being a bare board with single RCD and MCBs across the remaining ways. That would split things nicely with oven, hob, alarm etc just being on the MCB circuits and power and light remaining on the RCBOs. I think it may just add to complexity though....
  11. PeterW
    Likewise !! Sparky doesn't know what to do with himself...!
  12. PeterW
    So that's all pretty much boilerplate stuff - can be done yourself with a copy of the regs. RPAs (root protection areas) are easily calculated and it's about not digging or putting stuff in them. It is also a bit academic. I've just built a house where the 5ft deep footings are less than 3ft from a reasonably mature sycamore. In the entire trench there wasn't a single root from that tree ... but the RPA said I would lose 30% of its root zone. Also all depends on the soil - any hint of clay and you will be in expensive engineered foundation territory.....
  13. PeterW
    20 ways for less than £15 each ... http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metal-Board-Main-Switch-20-Way-Consumer-Unit-RCBOs-17th-Edition-Amendment-3-/232303133274?hash=item361658825a%3Ag%3A94YAAOSwFqJWqd0p&_trkparms=pageci%3A96074cfe-8cf0-11e7-97b9-74dbd1809ed2%7Cparentrq%3A2f79b72115e0aa411ac07660fffdf826%7Ciid%3A1
  14. PeterW
    Yep you can use anything that can handle 16A resistive load ... I have one time clock controlling all floors and towel rails - comes to 1450w all in so a little over 7A
  15. PeterW
    Anything oily will do tbh - can you see from the top and use a plant sprayer and some veg oil ..?
  16. PeterW
    Inner end of the stud ..... sorry ..!
  17. PeterW
    Hang on ... it's got holes in it ... why not just No-Nails some thick Perspex over the holes under water and have them as viewing windows ..! Just no naked swimming please @recoveringacademic....
  18. PeterW
    As JSH says - grease is your friend.. Quick way out with studs is undo the back side nut, clamp the inner end in the drill chuck and then put a spanner on the inner nut. It will spin the stud out against the timber. It's a poor mans version of a stud extractor but works ..! back fill with either foam from both ends or get a mortar gun and make a 3:1 mix to plug the outer end and then foam from the inside.
  19. PeterW
    I swear by one of these http://www.lakeland.co.uk/24466/3-Magic-Eraser-Stain-Remover-Cleaning-Blocks Bath and basin both had marks on them and this got them off in seconds.
  20. PeterW
    Yep but the 138 that's on it is only about 19Ah - the size is number of minutes at 25 amps so 45 mins at 25 amps is about 19Ah....
  21. PeterW
    @Onoff County Battery are always good - £38 inc delivery https://www.countybattery.co.uk/lawnmower-/895-powercut-lawnmower-battery-12v-260ah-12n24-3/
  22. PeterW
    Which one ..?? Esse do a 13 amp one that works like a storage heater. Not brilliant but quite nice. Better option is find an older gas or oil one and have the Newton conversion done on it - they aren't cheap to run anyway and the Newton one is the best of the conversions especially if you have PV. If you have gas then there are better makes than Aga - Thornhill do one that uses pellets and we seriously considered it. http://www.ecorangecooker.co.uk/
  23. PeterW
    Trays make life very easy - I laid 85 sqm in less than 2 days on my own. Thats at 200mm spacing - had some fun with the dog bone ends but easy to do. This was round the kitchen layout - means I know where I can and can't put screws in the floor ..!!
  24. PeterW
    If you go TS then oversize it as they don't hold as much at a specific temperature as a UVC 350 or 400 litre TS isn't as big or bulky as you think and will balance most things out especially as you want to pull rads from it too.
  25. PeterW
    I think both @TerryE and @JSHarris had a discussion on this about the thermal performance of a slab and the gradients around a pipe. In all honesty I don't think it makes much difference - the slab will warm through at a specific gradient and it's all about controls as you need to watch for overshooting of room temperature as the slab will keep getting warmer on the surface as the temperature evens out.
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