PeterW

Thats the benefit of the Enlite units - you can’t change the bulb as they are built in. I agree, I wouldn’t fit a standard downlight without a hood

I bought two Henry’s at auction a couple of months back - £15 each. They are 110v but the more powerful ones. You need the proper bags in them and usually the filter needs a good clean but they are great. The other thing to bear in mind is Numatic who make Henry make an industrial hoover with the same guts but a different casing. These come up at auction a lot and get ignored as people are looking for the Henry’s ...

Ducting doesn't need shingle - compacted earth is fine with the big stones taken out

Thats not strictly true as some manufactures such as Enlite allow for insulation over theirs but they are the exception rather than the rule. The E8 can be covered by up to 300mm of fibre insulation. http://enlitelighting.com/gb/ProductDetail/EN-DE8CX Enlite have also brought out a colour switchable downlight so you can swap from warm to cool white at point of fitting. They also have a 3 year warranty and replaceable bezels so are pretty flexible in what they look like.

Twyford and Geberit do a rimless range now as do most of the major brands. They seem more expensive but they do state that you have a max 6 litre flush on most as otherwise you can get a wet foot.....

Thats who I use - really good quality and service.

So 12mm isn’t any type of copper I know of ...! I’d use a 12/15mm nylon reducer and get it to 15mm and then use ordinary pipe fittings from there onwards

Perfect ..! I was thinking there is a rule about having to use a tool that it is exempt. Will use a box anyway

Quick question... What is under the bath and behind the bath panel classed as by way of zones..? need to find a location for an LED transformer and it makes the most sense to put it under the bath but I’m not sure if that’s possible ..?

More thinking boiler / ASHP feeds @Nickfromwales Telfords aren’t the easiest with the HP coil as the outlets are set as 150mm apart and level - makes for interesting pipework ..! All the other connections are relatively simple with rigid pipes. Control set can nearly drop straight onto the top of most of the cylinders.

+1 as I am also having only broadband and then will use my current VOIP provider who provider geographic numbers.

Check with @Nickfromwales but consider using flexis to connect the tank. As long as they are full bore it will give you some room for manouvre

Ikea one will fit - 5 year warranty on these and my last one was very good http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/appliances/microwave-ovens-microwave-combi-ovens/mirakulös-microwave-oven-art-30307452/

We have a low power heated drying rack for the utility which will be mounted above the sink and work surface and have an MVHR extract above it. Think it came from Lakeland or John Lewis

Hi Very few risks, in fact concrete gets better over time ! You would need to ensure any below ground cavity is covered to stop any water ingress but other than that there is no issue. May make sense to leave a couple of places you can sweep out any standing water from the slab by leaving out a block or two.

Kappa frame is the one you need - Sigma is the 112cm one and they are dead easy to fit. They come with everything you need apart from an angle or flat plate for the top - depending on how you fit them to the studs. Flush plates vary in price but list less 45% should be your target price. http://m.builderdepot.co.uk/geberit-duofix-wc-frame-0-82m.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5rL6rK3W1gIVhT8bCh2-bAJQEAQYAiABEgKNPfD_BwE

If you can get the paint off it then give it a coat of Jenolite to convert the rust. Decent metal primer over the top and a coat of masonry paint should be ok. Don’t use Hammerite as nothing sticks to it so you’ll end up with a stripe on each piece that will make it look worse. This normally happens where external scuffing has occurred so just make sure the render and corner bead aren’t damaged.

My kids could do a better job - sorry for being blunt but that is atrocious ..! First thing is ask to see the fixings box or the invoice - Habito screws have a different part number and a different head design. Check here http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/high-performance-screws-for-use-with-gyproc-habito?tab0=1 If the screws are wrong, get them removed and the boards replaced - scrim and splash isn’t a replacement for proper boarding. Secondly, bin the board team ... that’s not acceptable workmanship and they need to go. Thirdly... take your PM somewhere quiet and explain the facts of life, and how you’re paying his mortgage and he works for you - shortly before asking if he’d like to leave at the same time as the boarders ... anyone can pick a trade from google ..!! He needs a wake up call ... Ask lots of questions here - we are here to help..!

Thanks ..! Will get some ordered.

As part of the VCL we are taping the joints between the sheets of PIR on the ceilings. I picked up some 50mm foil tape from Screwfix but it’s utter rubbish - it peels straight off the foil of the insulation ..! Does anyone have any good recommendations of where to get decent 75mm or 100mm foil tape that is actually sticky..?

I plan to mount the CU below a pair of 50X25 battens to allow the cables to run up the wall and then it will get covered with Fermacell to make it look “neat”. It’s a double decker board and there are no downward drops so it’s all up into the ceiling space with the exception of the main SWA and tails.

Also worth noting that Everbuild is part of the Sika group - if you look at the MSDS for some of the products they are identical. Makes you wonder why the Sika logo doubles the price ...

Are you subbing to Fulcrum for everything then ..?? They are a multi utility service provider. This is the link to the connection calculator - should show all the pipes nearby. https://nggasb2c.natgrid.co.uk/ngcpt-service/index.html#/b2c/connection/theproperty hmm just checked and Cadent don’t do your area but there is a supply address listed as Plots 1-4 r/o etc etc

Have you used the estimating tool on the website ..? BG can’t install infrastructure so you need that sorting first. From the sounds of it your neighbours had a 63mm lateral main fitted and you’re now at the mercy of its capacity. Do you really need gas ...??

I’ve used the PolyPipe ones and found them very good. They come in different thicknesses and comprise a rigid plastic liner with a rubber edge and an EPS inner. Dead easy to fit and also mean there is no DPC required. No benefit in closing the top of the cavity unless you’re using a blown insulation.