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  1. But never mind I haven't paid the bill yet.... (despite having followed proper procedure) I have a strange feeling that Aesop is sitting on my shoulder. Bless 'im! This is my fault; naivety coupled with just enough money, and a general bias towards optimism. Let me tell you a story. Sitting comfortably? Then I'll begin. Our house is built using Durisol. Cheap, cheerful, targeted at noobies like us. Common on GD. Good U value, easy to handle yadda yadda yadda. By a quirk of fate (the Planners asked us to chop the front of the house off), part of the insulated front of the house is inside the house. In other words, inside the heated envelope. Well ! Guess what! I had a brainwave (can you hear the punch-line building yet?) Don't need the insulation inside the house? Well, chop it out then! Yo Sushi ! Go Team Salamander ! Check with the manufacturers, and the SE (very nice man, very very nice man haven't had his bill yet), it's all OK. @Stones came by and marvelled, @ProDave came by and marvelled. Look ! part of a structural wall cut out and no need for a lintel. Bit like Look mum, no nickers! Ya should have seen their faces: polite concern writ large. Any road up, SWMBO soon had an idea for the space freed up. And off I went happy as a sand boy to dig the insulation out. Now then boys and girls, look at this , and what do you see? I mean, beyond a Teutonic propensity for taking the wall to bits in neat squares ? I've dug out two columns of blocks (the equivalent of one Durisol block) exposing the concrete behind, and cut off only the face of two blocks (LHS) exposing the insulation. So far so good. Now look at this ... Look at the bottom right hand column Yep, insulation missing. Had I taken it out? - Nope. I'm exposing (cutting the face and insulation off) about 2 full square meters of wall. And so far found four instances of this little piece of laziness. Duplicate that randomly over the whole house and ..... 😫 Look on the bright side Ian ! You'll know what to do when the black mould spot pops its ugly fizzog on the wall inside the house. 6mm SDS , 300 mm long , squirt squirty with my new-found tool of choice. Insulation foam. Ahhh, isn't that nice children? If it you do it all yourself, you know how to sort out cock-ups. Now then, sit up straight and let's see who can go home early ! Not you @Nickfromwales, I want to see you when everyone's gone. .... Again.
  2. Hi This ICF section of the forum seems very dormant given that in other sections numerous people have eluded to their build being in ICF. Clearly there's a predominance of timber frame builders here. Perhaps we can all come out of the woodwork and identify ourselves to each other? I'm currently leaning towards Nudura as I intend to put it up myself and value the wealth of backup in the form of their training, all the videos, a huge user manual, they're a big company that seem to have evolved the blocks to maximise their practicability. I also like the large block size to minimise the amount of joints as they're the obvious weak spots during the pour. I'm not seeing another ICF that has anything 'better' about it, however i've not yet got quotes.....and i'm bracing myself for Nudura to have a bit of a premium (i might be wrong). Is anyone a bit further along in their experience of selecting which ICF?
  3. Hi, We have full planning and we have been obtaining quotes for the build. We are looking at ICF and the plot is on a slope, with the lower area being flood zone 2. Two of the companies have asked why we did not go for a basement as the below would not be a problem. We did have an FRA as part of the planning app and it said : RECOMMENDATIONS This report assesses that the development is located in Flood Zone 2 and 3. Therefore, as the site has a high risk of flooding. A number of recommendations can be made which may lower the risk or consequence of flooding. The key recommendations of this report are: EXECUTIVE SUMMARY A raised threshold should be included within the design, consideration must be given to raise above 15.71m AOD to mitigate against residual risk e.g. surface water routing through the site and uncertainty with the EA modelled flood levels. Avoid the construction of basements due to the proximity of the river unless a suitable design has been met to passively exclude ground water, to the satisfaction of the EA. Sustainable Urban Drainage Systems (SUDs) should be considered for incorporation into the design where feasible and the final proposal should ensure no increase in surface water runoff. Due to risk residents and those responsible for the development should be encouraged to sign up to the EA’s FloodLine Service so they are made aware of river levels. How would we find out if this would be possible? Could we submit a Planning - Non material amendment for a basement? If it's rejected would we lose the full planning? Thank you,
  4. Hi, We're about to start our project - 250m² 1.5 story house with basement on a sloping site in Holywood, Co. Down. Drawings all done, just waiting for planning to come through. My background is an engineer/project manager in the water industry, so I'm planning on using a lot of innovative, rapid, and non-traditional construction methods - focus on safe, rapid construction and simplicity and reduced dependence on trades. We're also aiming for passive levels of insulation and airtightness - south facing site with lots of glass. So, expect lots of posts about insulated foundations, ICF systems, tanking, shuttering concrete walls, floor deck systems, MVHR, the lot! Thanks.
  5. Have a look at this; This is a view into our Winter Garden from way above the roof. The yellow column represents (way out of scale) one of three vertical steels, each of which supports horizontals which in turn support the barn-style cladding. For clarity, I have omitted the other two verticals and all the horizontals. The winter garden is an empty area, outside the heated envelope (see the slats allowing air to circulate) The steel structure is linked to the house : how is my question? We could drill into the ICF and bolt it on that way or we could embed anchors in the ICF and drill the steels to suit on site The first is messier than the second. There is no guidance from the SE (Tanners) on how we should marry the house ICF and the Steels. But, (I have learned to ask), how hard can it be? I mean we could just pop down to Halfords and buy some cheap M6 nuts and bolts eh?........ well perhaps not.
  6. @Sue B wrote a post in this thread telling us that she was due to attend an ICF pour. It strikes me that it might be useful for us to make a simple list of the things that guests watching the concrete pouring process might look out for. This list refers to pointers to help guests - not the plot and building owner - because that is dealt with elsewhere. (here ) Get explicit permission to be on the property. Ask for permission to take photos Wear Hi-Viz Wear wellies Keep out of the way Note the access for the boom (if used) and concrete supply lorry. Note the shuttering arrangements (if any) Think about where you are going to store your shuttering before the build. Watch what happens if there is a burst: use that as the starting point for your plan for a burst If this pour is one of a series, have a look to see how previous bursts were repaired Make a detailed plan and preparation for a burst on your site. (we had several and became really efficient at reinstatement) Look at the number of people involved in the pour Note the arrangements for pipe flushing Where is excess concrete poured to? Be aware of the noise level and the difficulty that causes for communication If you can, note the level the pour at start and finish Look at the site in general: notice how many trip hazards there are. Try and reduce that risk before your pour. Ask how the builder checks the concrete slump Check the price of the concrete and the boom (delivery system) Offer to make a brew for everyone There'll be loads more; when the list is complet(ish) I'll edit and pin it. Ian
  7. Hi all. Nice to be here. Two years ago we moved to a house in disrepair sitting on a 0.5 acre plot. We were initially thinking of renovating, but now decided a better option is to erect new house next to the existing one and demolish the current one when the build is finished. I am designing the house myself (using and will be using planning consultant to get us through planning. Right now, we are at a point where we will need structural engineer who knows their way with concrete buildings or, ideally - the ICF method. This is to validate the design and ensure it can actually be built at reasonable cost. A recommendation or two would be really helpful ... Thanks Pav
  8. Ive been researching the many different ICF products on the market recently and have complied some data for comparison. A lot of the info is available online, but details from some manufacturers aren't so easy to find. The spreadsheet is far from complete or exhaustive, the products with the most detail are the ones I've been personally interested in and have sought quotes. Ive settled on a product now and my motivation has moved on to the next pressing decision! Hope this is some help to anyone thinking of building with ICF
  9. Hi all! First time posting, but I've been devouring the contents of the site for a few months whilst getting funding sorted for the next phase in my building. (A great source of information and debate!) Warning, it's a long post! A bit of background.. I bought a plot with an existing bungalow in 2011, the previous builder had run out of cash mid-build so that the site was in a real state to the untrained eye. At this stage, I pretty much struggled to change a lightbulb, so it was a fairly huge undertaking to build the 5 bed home that I had in mind. One of the first things I did whilst we were waiting for completion was to grab a shovel and start digging up some of the garden. About 3 hours later, back aching and hands raw, I'd only scratched the surface of what is almost 0.8 of an acre! That was when my builder came past and recommended I hire a rotavator, that was the first of about a million lessons I learnt on the build! Present So I've managed to build a nice 5-bed bungalow that we've been happily residing in for the last few years and still have foundations in place from the first builder for a fairly huge garage block (11m x 9m) and also another detached annexe (9m x 6m). The intention was to finish the outbuildings/ do the driveway when funds allowed, however, one thing has lead to another and the plans have grown so that the detached garage attaches to the main building, creating a more useable space with another floor above it with additional bedrooms. The reason for this is that my family has increased since we moved in (my brother is now married, my parents live with us, and I've had 3 children!) so we'd like to create zones for each family. The Plan I've been messing around with plans whilst sorting out funding and have come up with something that I think looks good and has all the space we'd need. The main limiting factor in our case is funds, the plot is more than large enough and our area has a fairly high ceiling for house prices. With this in mind, any advice on keeping the building costs as low as possible will be much appreciated. Another reason for sharing my plans with you guys is that with your vast knowledge of whats to come, I'm hoping you might pick up on some aspects which I may have overlooked. I'm not an expert by any means, though I've gained enough skills since the initial build with further projects that I feel comfortable managing the build myself and getting my hands dirty where I can to save money. Things I'm considering/ decided and would welcome your experiences on... Heating and Hot Water This is a pretty big consideration to be honest, my current thoughts are to install a ground source heat pump with boreholes, this will provide the UFH throughout the new build. The current part of the house I'd like to keep intact as much as possible so I've not intention of ripping the floors up and installing UFH, so the existing rads will have to do, but ideally I'd get rid of the combi boiler which is struggling to meet our demands at the moment and isn't in great nick. I'm not sure whether a system exists that will give us a whole home solution, with hot enough water and low running costs. As I have gas, I'd be reluctant to install an electric hot water tank, I'd imagine a gas fired would be significantly cheaper to run, though I've never seen this paired with a Ground Source Heat Pump. Tesla Solar Roof Ever since I saw this, I've wanted it! With the limited information there is out there, the cost of installing this is going to be somewhat similar to a slate roof but with the added benefit of providing enough solar energy for our needs, including electric cars (we already have 2 Nissan Leafs!) Obviously, the main drawback is that I'm going to have to wait for it, I've already put a deposit down which doesn't mean anything for timescales but I'm willing to wait a while longer as I think this will both add value to my home, provide the energy we need and also look outstanding too. However, that's not to say that I'll wait forever, and with my budgetary restrictions, this is definitely a luxury so I'd appreciate some alternatives or suggestion you guys may have. ICF I intend to build the extension in ICF, I'm currently favouring Nudura simply because my architect has recently completed a project using this system and there's a fairly local supplier. The reason I'm favouring ICF is that I think I could handle putting the shell together (with a little help) and I believe this will not only save costs, but time too as well as taking away a trade we normally sub out. Additionally, the added benefit of a tighter shell with better u values than block and render is a welcome bonus, especially with the amount of glazing I'd like. Cladding For some reason, I'd always assumed the cheapest way to clad a building was to render it, so I've not really explored many other options. Based on some calculations, it seems that many cladding options such as wood are going to cost a similar amount so it's something I'd like to know more about, how have you guys decided what to use and why (design/ budget/ maintenance etc.?) Structural Spans At the moment my architect (he's not a full architect) hasn't began work on putting my design together, but before he does, I'd like to know if there are any major structural issues that make my design unfeasible. I will obviously use a structural engineer too, but before it gets to that stage, I'd like to know the impact of my design and whether I should try to create an internal structural wall that can reduce the span (9m). Are there any other options? Costs I'm going to be adding somewhere along the lines of 600m2 including the annexe, ground floor, first floor and mezzanine levels. Going through some of the build cost calculators gives me some rather worrying figures but they don't necessarily account for the fact that most ground works are in place, including services which i took the liberty of adding water/ gas and network cabling to the other buildings already. Since our existing home serves our purposes for now, there is no rush to get everything done from the get go, so I envisage completing areas and rooms as and when time and funds allow, so my main budget needs to get the shell built including the roof and windows, electrics and plumbing (both 1st fix only). Ideally I'd like it to be clad and looking finished from the outside baring any landscaping and driveway which will be the icing on the cake eventually. I think I'm going to have a pot of around £200k-£300k to get to that stage, so I'd be interested to know if you think I'm crazy or not! With all of this in mind, I'd love for some cost saving measures you think would be relevant to the build, I know the basics such as shopping around, thinking outside of the box with suppliers (direct from factory etc) Thanks for taking the time to read, I'm looking forward to hearing what you guys make of my project!
  10. Had the 1st spray render guy out today for a quote. Our house is ICF on a 450mm high passive slab with the DPM coming out between the raft and ICF. I was originaly hoping to have the render all the way down to the ground level, but the render guy told me I needed a bead with DPM coming out. With a stop bead and render both sides it doesnt look good which i agree. He suggested brick slip or painted for the DPM down. Has anybody used anything else for ideas?
  11. Hi, We have had the heating running for around 7 days and the interior temperature of the house was around 11 degrees today according to the builder, the outside temperature has collapsed to 3 today. This is clearly not helped by them being in and out all day leaving does open etc. Also the front door is not in so it is just a frame with waterproof sheeting over it.(It may be in now) the MVHR is not on etc. I tried to calculate how much energy required to get the house up to temperature. I reckon there is around 600tonnes of concrete and blockwork inside the heated envelope. This would require around 3000kwh of heating to raise the temperature 20 degrees. Plus any heat losses which are probably running at a few hundred kwh per day in the current unfinished state. Heating up the air will require a negligible amount of energy in comparison. Does anyone have any experience of heating up a blockwork or ICF house and how long it took to get up to temperature. We need it to be in the high teens by Tuesday for the kitchen to go in. I had not really considered this but due to the much higher weight of this kind of construction, even if it is as well insulated as a wooden house it will require much more energy for initial heat up. The heating went off at one point after running through 2 large bottles of Calor gas in a 4 days. That seems to be around 1300 kwh of gas We are restricted on how much we can turn up the heating flow temperature so as to not cause cracking. I thought this was not a problem as the flow temperature should not have to be high. This is true once the house is up to heat but starting from a low temperature I am worried that the 30-35C flow I think we are running will not be enough to heat the house up quickly.
  12. Hi All, Thought I'd say hi. Have been reading the forum for a while now and have found it full of interesting and very useful info. I'm building a large chalet bungalow here in mid Devon and after much thought and budget revisions have ended up taking a year off work to to the build on a DIY basis with some help here and there from other trades. I've found that the reactions to this vary from "wow that's great" to "you're mad!" :-) BTW I'm not a builder, my normal day job is in IT as a Project Manager but I'm up for a challenge and need to keep costs down, or at least labour costs down as much as possible! After lots of thought and loads of discussions at numerous self build shows we decided that ICF was the right option for us and after discussing the project with several ICF brands we decided to go with Nudura. The build started back at the beginning of June and we've now reached wall plate and about to move onto the roof! Hoping to continue to absorb all the great info and options on here and will be throwing out a few questions to get answers/opinions/etc as I move further out of my comfort zone! Thanks. A.
  13. If you haven't read the backstory, it's here. and an analysis of what happened is here Quick Summary One turbulent night a little while ago, our wall blew down during a newbuild. It was unlucky: just the wrong weather at just the wrong moment. Our builder says that there was no guidance on the ICF producer's website. Verbally , the MD implied that the builder lacked common sense in building so high without pouring to stabilise the build. The production company give no specific guidance on how high to build before pouring or propping. The Loss Adjuster visited last week, and today, the Insurance company has sent me this email: in brief, it's the builder's fault. He should have braced the build,or poured. Here, verbatim (anonymised) is the response from the Loss adjuster. Following a review of our Surveyors report I note that the blocks had been dry stacked. The builder appears to have laid out too many course of block, without being filled with concrete or propped in the interim whilst await the concrete pour. Our Surveyor states that the safe working method would be prop any loose block work when dry stacked and that this ought to have been done until the concrete was poured. The policy provides cover on an All Risks basis, subject to certain exclusions. One such exclusion has material relevance to the claim at hand:- 7 Defective Property Loss of or damage to and the costs necessary to replace, repair or rectify the Insured Property: a) which is in a defective condition due to a defect in design, plan, specification, materials or workmanship of which Insured Property or any part thereof Based on the information available to us the only reasonable conclusion is that the wall would not have collapsed had in been propped. Following my verbal explanation as to the lack of policy cover available you advised that further information will be made available to support the claim, specifically weather records from Cambridge (sic!) University confirming a gust of 70mph was responsible for the wall being blown down and a time lapse video to show the wall had been built correctly. Ok, folks if this had happened to you, what would you do next?
  14. Meanwhile, back at the ranch, we decided not to trust even one block laid by the original builders. And that means treating the Durisol like, well, the wall at Blackpool sea front. I know, it's tantamount to an admission of defeat. But do we want a wall we can trust or not? Short of scanning each block for integrity (well nigh impossible) there's nowt else we can do. Have a look at those lovely lengths of threaded bar fastening the OSB to a similar support structure the other side of the wall. My God I can cut and trim threaded bar to size at speed now. And in doing so have presented myself with 60 cold bridges. Poo. Here are two ideas that we have come up with to fettle the issue. A few hours after the pour, undo the nut on the outside (insulation side of the ICF) and tap the threaded bar back in (say) 60 mm, and fill with foam. Allow the concrete to cure. Remove the sheeting, and drill back the bar from the inside this time. Fill with foam. Leave it. Allow to cure. Drill out 120 (both sides of 60 bars) to a depth of 60 mm, fill with foam Has anyone got any bright ideas? Please? Hope so Ian
  15. I know the answer is ours and ours alone to make. Testing my thinking is what this post is about. Am I too involved; missing the wood for the trees, too cross to make a sensible judgement? And if I am minded to go it alone, can I follow through? Writing about it will help me think too. Our builder is being evasive. Over promising. Disorganised or absent paper work. Withholding vital information until a few seconds before disappearing from the site. Some aspects of the work have been excellent, others not. He struggles to retain staff. Some are oafs. (Oaves?) Others the opposite: accurate workers, polite, funny, interesting. We've had some meteorological bad luck. But that hiccup has been overcome to the extent that the replacement blocks are here. Calm analysis and talking to the loss adjuster has been reassuring. I have (until now) had a misplaced faith in the value of a promise. I had a verbal agreement to pay, and did so when I said I would. I accepted that detailed invoices to substantiate the charges would follow. They haven't. In simple terms, we've paid a good deal on account. We are now at least a month behind schedule. "... We'll be down towards the end of the week..." Right. That's been said so often now, it's hollow. I know enough about Durisol to - with the help of this community - to build the shell myself. On my own. Very often there's a gale at the beginning of September. And I do not want the rest of the 'unpoured blocks' on the floor. That's the real driver Do I sack them and get on with it? In an instant I would if I could get one reliable, thoughtful, fit building partner. I'd be pushing it on my own. But it can be done. Just. What needs to be done? Blocks laid to just above first floor: skill level - very easy And then poured. (tricky, but I've seen it done three times now and I am not stupid) Rest of the blocks laid and poured : skill level easy to tricky (trimming the gable will be interesting), but not impossible. If I do it slowly and carefully its well within my fitness and competence level If I do that I will have taken this mess by the scruff of the neck and got on with it. Yes, it's our decision. But poke my thinking, ask uncomfortable questions. My deep instinct is to get on with it, while seeing if I can recruit someone to work with me - for safety as much as anything.
  16. To pump an ICF, you need two things: a pump and concrete. Pumps cost £550 +VAT. The concrete costs what it costs. What do you do if the company sends out concrete that's too stiff? Durisol needs to be of Scotch Broth type consistency. I'm trying to avoid wasting the poor pump driver's time, and lightening our bank balance by £550 at the same time. And how -on the spot- do I judge what the correct slump is? The only way I can think to get it right, is to order a small amount of concrete at XYZ slump and see if the company actually delivers it. Concrete's interestingly tricky stuff innit? Fascinates me
  17. Just a quick question. Which resin (brand-names please) are suitable for embedding rebar into existing concrete to make it ready to tie into subsequent pours? I have looked at the technical guidance for that in the Durisol technical information, and can't find it. With a bit of luck, we might be completing this phase of the build within a few days. Fingers and toes crossed. Ian
  18. Things have slowed down a bit for various reasons too boring to relate. So, I've decided to finish the Piggery myself, and let the main builder finish the house (when he decides to come back on site). In @Construction Channel's words, "How hard can it be?" The main aim is to rebuild the piggery to look (outwardly) exactly the same as it looked before, but to turn it into a useful storage and utility space. This is what the piggery used to look like but now it looks like this Just in case anyone thinks that a forum Admin is an expert, let's be clear, I haven't built anything in my life before. (Failed Woodwork at school, got thrown out of Metalwork too). But I did spend years watching my dad build bridges. (M5, M50) There are a series of challenges here Design and build the roof Make the connections for water and sparks Clad it Build and fit the doors Connect the Piggery to the house (water and sparks) Fit it out: washing machine, storage racking, sink I have never done any of this before. So, I'd be glad of your help. I'll try and keep a detailed record of what I plan to do and then compare it with what really happens. I would not have considered doing this without the experience of the generosity of BuildHub. The aim of this post is to give something back, especially to all those who do not post, to those who worry that by posting, they will be making a fool of themselves , or who are maybe a bit shy about 'getting-it-wrong'. For me and many others that's normal. Starting on the roof today. Sorting out the gables.
  19. This week has been hard work, but for all that, there's a lot to show for it. This post is an update - much more detail to follow when things have settled down in a week or so. First of all, what's the end in mind? Have a look at this. Its roughly 10 by 10 with an internal garden (on the left hand side - the dark area is open boarding to allow air to circulate freely) The Piggery (of which more later) is the small (wire-frame image) building on the right of the image. We are using an ICF called Durisol. This shot shows a corner detail with our (as yet roofless) Piggery in the background. The blue marks show where the blocks were cut to size: and where the gap is a little bigger than finger width. A little foam was injected into those gaps. Here's a more general shot taken at about mid morning. As yet all hand laid, dry, no concrete. You can see the main contractor (Dan) framed by the the front door framework. The house fairly shot up... Here's where we'd got to by Wednesday And here's where we are today. A couple more window gaps to make, the final pour of concrete and that'll be it for the main build. Everyone walking past says something like 'Where did that come from then?' I always take the time to talk to anyone who expresses an interest. It's important to explain to locals what's happening. There's a very big anti-build atmosphere centered on the Local Plan - it has identified the A6 corridor (100 meters away) as the main area on which to achieve Wyre Borough's housing target. Why the A6? It's a little higher than the local flood plain - ie. the area west of the M6, but East of Blackpool. Lot's of development has already taken place on known flood plain area round here; and justifiably, the LPA is taking stick for it. I'm knackered. Lot's of challenges, lots of hard work, lots of satisfaction. It didn't all go smoothly. Next post, much more detail and an analysis of what issues we faced and how we solved them. The good bit? Needing to buy an SDS+ drill. (The term 'need' is correctly applied in this instance @Ferdinand )
  20. Morning guys, Having a little issue with finding a concrete supplier who will give me the exact spec I require, which is: DESIGNATED CONCRETE to external walls Designation: RC32/40. Fibres: Not required. Aggregates: - Size (maximum): 10 mm. - Coarse recycled aggregates: RCA permitted. - Additional aggregate requirements: Rounded coarse aggregate. Special requirements for cement/ combinations: CEM 1 Consistency: S2 slump range with an ideal slump to around 80mm Chloride class: Normal. Admixtures: Waterproofing admixture below d.p.c. to wall system manufacturer's approval or a high cement concrete to BS8007 with minimum cement content of 325kg/cu.m and water cement ratio of 0.5. Just looking for some help with what things mean. Firstly, the RC32/40 - is that the strength of the concrete? From other posts, I believe the R stands for reinforced as it will have rebar in it? I've been assured that having a minimum cement content of 325kg pcm and water cement ratio of 0.5 will give me a waterproof concrete without the stupid expense of waterprrof additive, but has anyone come across this before as I'm a little worried about that? Vijay
  21. We are building with Durisol. Why? A balance of price, simplicity, build time and thermal performance. This is how they go together.... And concrete gets poured inside the holes. A weeks ago, I bumped into this video and fell to thinking (I really wouldn't mind a few days off that obsession) What if I were to embed my electricity ducting in plastic conduit within the concrete? And so I spent hours digging around. Got nowhere. The videos on YooChube don't allow comments or questions. Rang up the company, spoke to one of the Directors (Tim Bevan) who talked about the sites where he had seen it done. So it can be done. Do you hear the 'BUT' yet? Well I've been trying to think of one, or a few, or some, and got nowhere, except thermal breaks: use plastic tubing once it's in, that's it: not very flexible need to be damn sure the placing is exact : plan properly concrete etches, and eventually destroys the conduit: really? BCO might not like it : ask What might the benefits be? No wall chasing First fit easier Save space in the planned services 'slot' (hardly worth thinking about) I'd dearly luuuuurve to stick my MVHR ducting in it. Now that: that would be brilliant. What do you think? Ian
  22. Hi everyone, I'm a "mature" retired electronic/electrical design engineer come computer networking consultant come PH self builder. See following link for existing building details. Currently designing second PH for construction in Brinkworth, on Woodbridge park golf course. Build commences 2nd August. Also designing next door neighbours from PHPP perspective. Scandanavian Lodge design ( planning requirement), Isoquick insulated raft foundation, Beco ICF walls (polstyrene lego bricks according to my wife!), attic trussed warm roof. Approx. 240m2 and 550m3 gross including voids which are within thermal and airtight envelope. Techie bit. Hmm.. The intension was to have very similar to current house as it works well! However no mains gas so all electric. MVHR to be a Paul Novus 300 with Lindab rigid safe ducting, silencers etc. Thermal store to be Akva Nero 750l (current house has Akvaterm std tank of 500l with top and bottom DHW coils giving up to 35l per min). Change of size result of no mains gas and probable use of Eco7 electric to supplement Solar PV via Immersun PWM switch to two high temp immersions. Space heating via VEAB CCW 125-6-2.5 in living area duct branch only - no active heating to bedrooms. Summer active cooling via VEAB CWK 125-6-2.5 in bedroom ducting only or VEAB CWK 160-6-2.5 for all areas... 3kW ASHP air to water supplying the VEAB CWK. Secondary DHW loop to provide "instant" hot water to all areas with little potted water wastage (as per current house). Well that was the plan until I discovered Sunamp and Zehnder Comfocool Q600! So undecided now although no apparent pricing/availability of Sunamp Stack.... Sunamp PV 5kW units look good but only a fraction of the capacity of a 750l TS. Multiple units look very expensive by comparison. However, need to make a decision soon I guess.......
  23. Hi, I have been investigating building a house with ICF and now looking at how to run the pipes for the plumbing. The house will be all one one level around 250 sqm with 3-4 bathrooms and separate utility room. Also sink in kitchen will be on an island. I am planning on putting in UFH pipes (for potentially cooling the house). I know that it's normal for the waste and UFH pipes to be in the slab, is it also ok to put the hot and cold water pipes in the slab? I ask this as I think it would be easier to do it this way rather than cut chases into the ICF internal foam. Thanks in advance for any help
  24. We are currently in the detailed planning stages for the re-build next year, Planning Permission Granted. I will, when I can work out how to create one, move the blog I started in ebuild and continue it. Mine is not so much a self-build as it will be built by a contractor, but a custom build which is why I am putting so much effort into the planning.