PeterW

Ok so that's very different to a tree survey ..!! all you need is the standard detail from BS5837 about protection of root zones and that you will use a fixed fence etc and you will be fine. It's all pretty standard stuff ...!

I use Pears Stairs - always seem to beat the others. Howdens is £99 plus VAT - fairly easy to butcher as you've got a half landing. You could lose the 100mm in a set of blocks at the bottom and then an extra 30mm when you step up and step off the landing and it wouldn't be noticeable.

It's not just TF that suffers. We have Egger Protect and it was exposed for nearly 4 months - I had glued the joints and it basically became a swimming pool in some places ..! It held water well, and we would regularly sweep bucket loads off it. In one or two places there are slight swells in the joints. On the other hand, the old ordinary chipboard was exposed for 3 weeks and it turned to mush ..! We took it out with a sledghammer through it and it took longer to pull the nails up than it did to remove the board ...!

Thanks Jeremy - it would be a lot easier to put the fibre in and seal it up and then decide on the plan for the extra insulation ..!

As it says... where does the VCL go when you use insulated plasterboard..? We have around 130sqm of ceilings to do that are sloping and need an additional insulation layer inside the roof - issue is, where do I put the VCL..? I was going with a foil PIR and taping that to provide the VCL but the pricing for the plasterer to do an insulated board makes me think it may be worthwhile getting him to do it all. As I've got part fibre and part PIR, do I put a VCL behind the insulated plasterboard, or does it not need one..??

Batten is expensive as are the cloaks. You should be able to pick batten up for 48p plus vat, cloaks for £3 or so. Any reason for breather and sarking..?? If you're using Roofing Superstore then go for the cheapest breather which I think is Klober - I use a Cromar one at £30 a roll and its fine.

Hi and welcome.... I'd get some different advice on trees if I was you ..!! A standard BS 5837 tree survey would ignore that whole hedge unless you are in a conservation area or the hedge has a TPO on it. Anything under 150mm at 1.5m above ground level is ignored so you could rip that up without even getting permission (assuming it's on your land ..!) Watch for council tree officers asking for surveys on land that is not yours - I've seen someone end up with a TPO on their land as someone tried to build adjacent and a very slap happy tree officer basically hit everything on the plan - including neighbours trees ..!

You would have to rod "up" the rest bend so potentially compact anything blocked from above. In chamber back drops are easy to do and easy to service if they block.

Ok so they are for the tiles ..... Just nail over the clouts with a ring shank nail - don't start taking them out.

I've never seen an external back drop - they are prone to blocking at the base. Only ones I've seen a BCO sign off are where the pipe comes in at the side and then drops vertically to a 90 degree "shoe" that shoots it down the next section. No easy way to rod that if it does block at the elbow.

That is an unusual backdrop but you could do that ..!!

You need the new Mira shower with the app..!! Can have hours of fun with that ..!

+1 to the backdrop Do it inside the chamber - 600x450 concretes are good for this - and use a tee with the top capped off with an access plug.

Yep - just put a galvanised in every batten you have done so far .... are the 50mm clouts aluminium ..?

And what are you nailing those battens on with ...??

Don't forget to nail every one ......

Looks ok - are you making a gauge block to set the battens or measuring it from a top batten ..?? If it's a block don't forget to deduct the depth off the batten ..!

Batten must go over 3 rafters unless it's a valley or hip and you can do two at the top. Tile guage is set by the manufacturer - they look like either Marley Modern or Sandtoft Calderdales. If so, put the details into this and it will tell you your spec for the tile fix and the minimum headlap. https://www.marleyeternit.co.uk/Resources/Technical-services/TileFix.aspx From memory, 75mm is the minimum head lap on those tiles - you also need to nail every tile ideally but not too tight.

I have to agree with that ...! I think you will at least triple the cost of the steel and I can guarantee no matter how well you position it, the hole will be in the wrong place ..!! There is no room for onsite adjustment with that level of tolerance. I've just had to redesign an entire bathroom as despite having a posijoist floor, there are strong backs through the middle and basically it's too low for a 110mm waste.... but if I look at the plans it's all perfect ..!

Walk on glass is pretty easily done using laminated glass - how big a piece do you want to have..?? two sheets of 10mm laminate together will easily span 600mm according to the guy who sized up the plans for me for something similar. When I'm home I'll dig out the links to the place that priced it for me - wasn't expensive.

No no no no no ..!!! Subtract the minimum head lap (usually 75mm) from the tile length and then divide the gap plus lap by that. So in your case it's Tile (267)-75 = 192 gap plus lap = 3630 + 75 = 3705 That's 19.2 rows up to 20, pitch becoming 185mm make sense ..??

Ta ! Will check how many he has...

Real quick one (probably for @Nickfromwales) Has anyone come across these before ..?? I've been offered some new old stock at silly prices and they are fully certified as WRAS and TMV2/3 but I've never used them. Seem to be Wolseley own brand ..?? And at less than £10 each they are a bit of a bargain ...!

If you had to you could bury an offcut of RSJ (254x133 would work) on its side with the plates in line with each other and then bolt the steel to that.

You buy joint covers ... leave a 5mm gap between each piece and then superglue it to ONE SIDE ONLY so it can move with ExpAnsion when it gets warm