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I did not think special provision fir dedicated points were necessary as each room has plenty of 13amp sockets and all panel heaters etc come with a 3 pin plug (and timer and thermostat if required).

I would respectfully disagree on that last point. In a near passive house (and I have lived in mine coming up on 5 years) it is really not needed. We have a 110m2 passive basement, no heating whatsoever and is always 22oC. Ground floor (same foot print) has low temp wet UFH which is active year round and set to 22oC but only comes on Nov-Feb and even then only on the really cold days. First floor bedrooms have no heating and are always comfortable (21 usually) due to solar gain, convected heat from the rest of the house and occupancy. Bathrooms have electric UFH as tiles will feel cold even at an acceptable room temp and wet ufh towel rails. Rooms in roof have no heating but always warm due to solar gain (roof-lights) and convection. If there was heating installed where it is not, it would never be on so the invested cost would be wasted until such times as the house needed sold (which is no time soon). If I really wanted heat in bedrooms, I'd just plug panel heaters into the wall. I don;t have much time for NHBC to be honest, especially looking at the appalling design and quality of the builders boxes churned out annually that all meet NHBC standards.

What about a Willis heater connected UFH and to the solar panels somehow? If it’s only occasional heating, it might make more economical sense to have a lower initial outlay.

Aha ok that makes sense. Right hinge here ( not fixed obviously). 10" long the door side: i hope with 3x instead of 2x like my other bedroom doors i think 12" jobs, they'll be sufficient. Door is bit thicker @ 20mm (plus 25mm ledges, chosen just in case I need to put PIR on the back).

Keep the joins away from the sink for both structural integrity and to eliminate the remote possibility of a leak at a join. Ideally position your joins on carcases and if this moves it closer to the sink thats fine. Do not at whatever cost put the join on the sink. you will regret it.

If I ever decide to switch from oil to ashp I'm first going to log how long the burner on the oil boiler runs for in January to get an idea of how many kWH a day are being used in cold weather. Cross check it against oil consumption. Not just going to rely on someones calculations of energy loss based on a quick look around.

I provisioned for a dedicated electric point in each bedroom for a small panel heater. They have not been needed and not installed and those points remain unused. But I am still glad I put them in.

Given its age i would tread very carefully. It wont have a damp proof course, so the walls and floor will need to breathe or they will get wet (probably are now.) Most insulation systems will prevent that from taking place, storing up future trouble. Id suggest a peruse here would be a good idea. https://www.lime.org.uk/ Im just about to use their sublime insulated floor system. Periodproperty forum is good too, though some of them can be a bit harrdcore!

Well you won’t rust (or fart).

Hi and welcome. I think your experience mirrors a lot on here, who like to do things themselves as the only way to be sure they are done properly.

@zoothorn please keep using the CH, and don’t go back to the heaters as your electricity bill will increase not decrease !! A fan heater is a resistance heater, and for each kW of electric you put in, you get nearly a kW of heat out. A heat pump uses the electricity to pull heat from the air, and for every kW of electric you put in, you get between 2 and 4 kW of heat out ( the CoP or coefficient of performance) Heat pumps are much more efficient and even if they only get a CoP of 2, it is twice as effective and half the cost of the same heat input from your heaters. Now it is working properly, you need to get it running properly and see what improvement you see.

pefect job for spray closed cell foam but I understand where he is now -and if like your picture he cannot get a draft though very easily to dry up any moisture - so could be just trapping in moisture to rot roof above If this space is going to be heated that makes it worse

According to the instructions our towel rails have Fernox anti corrosion inhibitor and anti noise silencer installed in the water.

At the risk of repeating myself, your system was not designed properly, any insulation or not should have been taken into consideration and your system designed to be “fit fir purpose” which yours is not. ?

Thanks Temp. That's right, the existing wooden soffits are vented. Screwfix does appear to come out top price wise for the VP400, £100 for 50x1.5m . I will try my friendly Merchant who have been unbeatable on most stuff to date. Trusses arrive next week. Measured the existing ones myself to replicate as none of the suppliers I tried were offering surveys. Wish me luck that they match and line up ?

Possibly time to renegotiate the purchase price. Do you have a copy of the valuation you can use as 'evidence'?

Nah, just been bodging/inventing/diying for many years (I am told its because I am a tight wad ?). Rather than foam I would cut two circular wood plugs that fit in the pipe either end, use above screws to secure to pipe and 6mm threaded bar bolted to wooden ends (can supply a CAD drawing on request) (crayon assisted drawing ?). any way, must get on, currently building a bee hive from a big log (cus I am too tight to buy one!).

32mm weld waste pipe and round head self tappers 8 off (4 each end at 90’) to grip the roller ?

Try 1.1/4" it's about 35mm And a couple of wraps of insulation tape, or a bit of old bike inner tube slipped on

Another one here with no heating upstairs apart from the bathroom and en-suite. In the middle of a cold spell in the Highlands, -8 last night, -9 the night before, barely been above 0 even in the day for nearly 2 weeks now. Downstairs 21 degrees, upstairs 18.7 degrees.

Yes I would just replace the whole bar mixer unit. Simple to change. But if you are the tenant, it is the landlords job to fix it.

It isnt an advert, it was exactly how it happened, we are in cardiff & we wont be using this company or paying them, but the guy was really helpful, they needn't even have bothered picking up the message, it was after 6. As it was they picked up the message & offered that i could ring them for help too. I thought they were a company worth knowing about so I thought I would put the details up here for anyone else, take it or leave it.

OK, that's basically what I am looking to use them for. An extra layer of protection as by their very nature they shouldn't be porous or be susceptible to mortar cracks between stones. Of course the seals may fail in 10-20 years but that's life... I have learnt since moving into my new property the downsides of parapet walls and how important is they are constructed properly... I speak as a total amateur just on the receiving end of some of the issues associated

Probably to ensure the gutter doesn't overhang?

No, a family member was looking at solving penetrating damp near a parapet wall and I came across them then. I have not used any sort but thought them a good solution.

Can you make sure the end of the timber cladding are coated before they put the reveal pieces on please!

You have not said whether you are committed to the purchase. I don't think "preventing you from doing the same" is sufficient to refuse in planning terms, as there is no other obvious major extant violation. But I think that that would fail to get PP because of the 8" clearance, if it had been objected to - they would have made them go back to perhaps 1m or 800. The sellers have been fools. However now it is built, I think they will assess granting PP as expedient as the loss to the neighbour is less in the balance than the cost of forcing demolition. In your case I would: 1 - Refuse to move further in negotiations until the outcome is known, unless there is a price reduction of 7-10% as a risk lack-of-premum. If you have already offered but not signed, then imo discovering this on visit is enough to gazunder them. 2 - Take into account that slowdown is expected when the Stamp Duty bung expires in April, and use that as a lever. 3 - Or walk away. Prices are generally expected to slump after April 1st, so there may be a better option around. Personally I think it is likely they did it deliberately, and they knew damn well they would struggle, but you have to evaluate them as you find them. You could put a full 2m high fence there, which would mitigate significantly. It is also to the N so will not cause extra shadow. I think your extension may get PP, but I would leave a bigger gap to the boundary. F

You can get aluminium or GRP coping covers but they are expensive .......https://guttercentre.co.uk/aluminium-coping/3838-691764-skyline-aluminium-coping-3-metre-length.html?

I called ADC about my heat pump last night -well I was actually just using the online chat facility at 6pm & they said please ring - so I did - 07712 622862 I thought that was really kind since it was after hours & the guy, Andy took me through all the setting really patiently, he hadn't seen a Husky before but we worked it out with his expertise. he thinks its a valve thats not responding & I need a na actual engineer for that, but he took me through the settings just in case. He wont get the business for the valve as he is too far away, I asked him to send an invoice for his time & he said don't worry. What a nice guy. Anyone in the South West area, you might want to try this company. Know their stuff & willing to go the extra mile.

That's the plan Stan. I'll design one and post here for comment later.

Probably has some inhibitor in it.

Assuming it's a thermal mixer shower, the thermostatic cartridge has failed and is is no longer adjusting to maintain the temperature. If it's rented, notify the landlord. If you are the landlord, replace it. Post a picture of the shower, the problem is not at the tank.

Absolutely crucial point. As it is a one off for most, you never get to correct your mistakes.

It may or may not be a sewer, it could be a private drain in which case you do what you like to it so long as it still works best to ascertain whether it is theirs or yours - sewer or drain

Exactly my thoughts... it’ll be fine for the time being and at least there will be heat in the bathroom. I guess the UFH will just need a blending valve and pump to make sure it doesn’t get too hot.

It burns well although needs a hoover out about every 3 days which we put down to the amount it’s burning, it did go out a few nights ago without warning ( an alarm is meant to sound if there is a problem) and on inspection we found the pot that the pellets burn in was all clogged up. when we had the new motherboard fitted the cover of said had melted!

Electric ones don’t break down as much! But for more hardcore cutting (excuse the pun) petrol can’t be beat.

I’ve got a 9” grinder with a diamond disk and it’s great for small stuff like blocks and bricks. Feels light in the hand and it will cut most things. Downside is the cable being dragged around ! I’ve had a play with the new Makita LXT 9” one that has 2 batteries but I can’t see how this will stand up against either petrol or a mains one.

Ive tried a few different electric saws over the years. The electric will be ok for easy to cut materials like blocks and occasional lighter steel or rebar BUT if you want a heavy duty saw that won't lie down there is a reason all the professionals use Petrol saws.

NHBC are a joke....!!!

@Roz Turning it to the left as you look at it makes it warmer. The rectangles get bigger on the head the warmer it is ..!

Note the temperature. Turn it a full turn in one direction. come back in 15 minutes and see which way the temperature has moved and by how much.

I think it's a great shame that, it seems, a lot of people are 'conned' into thinking it's a straightforward process to replace a gas or oil fired boiler with an ASHP. This is only relatively easy if it's being fitted to a modern reasonably well insulated house with underfloor heating. Fitting an ASHP into an old house essentially means replacing the whole central heating system and the DHW storage system. I think the government should not be advertising ASHPs as a panacea for home owners heating requirements and government CO2 reduction targets.

(** For the record, it has to be a trombone not a trumpet. Trombones are far more fun.)

No, just no... Drink the vodka and go to bed. And forget about a tank under the floor..! How would you drain it down for starters ..??!!

I have had to provide 72 sqm of bat roost in the garage roof all lined with Bitumen F1. And a heater. The joy.