ryder72

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ryder72 last won the day on February 26 2018

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  1. Good quality stainless steel or cast iron pans are essential for induction. None of the induction compatible alloys or copper bottom pans. Induction hobs work by inducing heat in the pan so a solid bottom pan with a substantial amount of steel/iron is essential is generating heat and distributing heat evenly round the pan for best performance. Try buying a budget induction compatible and you will soon find out how useless they are. We had to swap a good quality circulon induction compatible set with a stainless steel set just to make the most of the induction hob.
  2. Sorry but what you are saying is simply NOT TRUE. 150mm round or rectangular equivalent (90*220) is the industry norm and the 'super posh and expensive manufacturers) specify exactly this size. The rectangular duct has a larger cross section to offset the greater drag caused by a larger contact area. 250mm round is actually a 10 inch duct which is what is used on commercial HVAC systems or restaurant kitchens. I would like to see where and how you could build this into a domestic dwelling 😰 though I do agree that the performance will be great. 90*220mm ductwork is absolutely fine.
  3. What type of extractor are you having. a 60mm flat extract sounds like an ultra low profile system and will cause tremendous pressure loss. If you are looking at a vented hob or a decent downdraft, you really ought to be thinking of using a 89 * 220mm system, ideally with rounded profiles and deflectors for optimum performance. This would be set into your PIR insulation layer and screeded over. The heat loss on account of the heating pipes in the screed will be miniscule compared to what you would lose from any other venting system. If you have MVHR then recirculate and ensure that you have an extract vent provided in the ceiling in the vicinity of the hob.
  4. With back to back units it isnt going anywhere. Its only when you have a single row of units with a worktop overhang that you need to seriously consider some arrangement to prevent it tipping.
  5. Almost all English kitchens will be a carcase height of 720mm with a plinth of 150mm . European kitchens vary from the 720mm standard height with 150mm plinth (a system that apparently dates back to the post war years. Modern premium European kitchens will typically have 780mm carcases with 100mm plinths but even this varies (our supplier does 795mm carcases with 100mm plinths). This is done for 2 main reasons- 1. The average european is about 2 inches taller now than in the 40's and the increased worktop height makes for better ergonomics. 2. Most manufacturers use a generic supplier for door fronts who make them in fixed sizes. The 780 system works on a 130mm grid making modular construction cheaper and more flexible (Our supplier is totally bespoke so they work on a 132.5mm grid allowing for a 795mm carcase, squeeezing in a bit more storage) Add to this your worktop height which will vary between 20 or 30mm stone, 40mm corian, 40mm laminate, 30 or 40mm wood. Anything above these is possible. To this one would normally add 100mm upstands when stone or corian worktops are used. If you are able to set your cill height bearing the above in mind you are able to achieve better detailing around the windows. Else one end up from upstands that could appear too low to be of much use, a bit top heavy or fussy detailing around the window behind the sink.
  6. Mercury/Falcon are part of the Rangemaster group and I rate them highly. I am surprised to hear of Lacanche as they are generally highly rated. Same with Bertazonni. As a retailer we dont generally deal with range cookers but if I had to supply one I would only deal with Mercury and Falcon. Too much headache with the other brands.
  7. Range cooker is not a bad alternative if its a good quality product. In my experience very few products are well made and delivery the same quality & performance a built in ovens from a mainstream brand. Typically Mercury, Falcon, Lacanche, Bertazzoni are the better product. Most of the lower priced options are built to a price tag and not really great products.
  8. Get one with a timer on the machine so you can set a programme and delay the start typically for up to 19 hours to conincide with cheaper tariffs.
  9. If you are looking at gas with downdraft, you have a pretty big challenge to overcome. Unlike induction there is a greater amount of air currents created due to the naked flame and this tends to push the odours/smoke upwards at a higher rate . Further a downdraft extractor flush with the worktop is going to create air movement that will affect your flame detrimentally. While manufacturers make this product to serve a market you will never ever get anywhere close to the claimed performance with a gas hob. Then consider this - heat rises. This is a plain fact of physics. To draw this heat and heat assisted smoke, odours down from the rim of the pan is a challenge that any extractor has to overcome. One of the fundamental problems that ANY flush downdraft faces is the performance overhead of the task at hand. Bora claims to have solved this problem with air velocity, but tests have shown that all other manufacturers achieve similar velocities to Bora so that doesnt make them unique in any way. I have a Gutmann extractor at home and while its a very good product and installed with the best ducting gear available, it is far from perfect. It only really works when shallow flying in a very flat pan. Try cooking with a medium height saucepan, pasta pot etc and the reality hits home. This is the reason why you see all Bora adverts showing water boiling and steam being effectively extracted away - ASSISTED by a lid on the pan. Take the lid away and things look very different. I recommend the Novy because they have not fallen for this trend and instead offer vented hobs where the extraction unit rises to 2 or 3 levels from the hob top allowing very effective extraction. Further all pans are always next to the extraction point so the motor can be run at a lower speed compared to traditional downdraft hoods The Novy Panorama is particularly good and I wish I had got one instead (wasnt on the market when my kitchen went in). In summary, If you have to have a gas hob, consider a conventional downdraft with the caveat that its still not 100% or a different type of extraction.
  10. You know you can ask for your deposit back if you choose to do this. I had a client recently who had paid a deposit for a £14k kitchen from Wren as a supply only job. The kitchen fitter she contacted for installation recommended she speak to us and we did the kitchen for a fair bit under. She had no problem getting her deposit back. If anyone in kitchens ever tells you there is a discount - RUN. Its all made up and its smoke and mirrors. If there is a discount with a deadline, it will be available after the deadline. If it isnt, come and get the money from me.
  11. Wren is probably the most questionable quality product you will buy. Very poor value. The quality is no better than Howdens and you will buy Howdens (sensibly priced) better than Wren.
  12. A recirculation hood to trap grease is a good idea. While the venting hob options are dearer, you do extract at point of source so very effective. The MVHR deals pretty well with odours so this I wouldnt worry about.
  13. Your best bet would be to buy an inline motor from an extractor motor and retrofit it to your hood duct. The main issue is the controls as the normal setup involves a cable set that connects into a connector already present on a hood supplied by the same manufacturer and you can then control the motor from the controls on the hood.