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Yes, IMO, (and look far better than standard kitchen hinges) BUT, you will need short screws which into 18mm MDF might not be good, a piano hinge fixed to the edge of the doors will allow far more screws and longer screws. 🤷‍♂️

It's just a capacitor... something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233626672751 and choose 16uf

I was suggesting it for both heating and cooling. They really are a wonderful technology. They should beat a2w on a COP perspective, and it is easier to manage the condensate on them as the line sets are pre-insulated.

No issues with lintels you can get them from local BM that will span 150mm usually in stock. We went with 150mm full fill cavity batts which gives you 0.17 . It's easier to fit correctly and cost less than PIR .

Groan....... The Kooltherm salesman strikes again. Go back to your architect. Get them to redraw the house with 200mm EPS in the floor or 150mm PIR minimum. Use 150mm or 200mm of EPS blown beads or Cavity wall batts in the walls. Use 400mm mineral wool or cellulose for any insulation on flat over ceilings. Kingspan Kooltherm phenolic insulation is pound for pound the most expensive insulation with the exception of Vacuum insulated panels and Aerogel. It's bordering on professional negligence when "professionals" just rubber stamp manufacturers designs without any thought to the pocket of the client.

Then you need a fair amount of insulation. The reason is that the floor is going to be at about 30⁰C to achieve a room temperature of around 20⁰C. The greater the temperature difference, the more insulation you will need so that the ground below the house does not sap all the energy away, leaving little to heat the house. Generally considered that a minimum of 150mm is needed, though the more the merrier. Easy enough to do the calculations. https://www.kingspan.com/kz/en/knowledge-articles/how-to-calculate-a-u-value/

I think you’ll get a positive verdict if you Increase the cavity width to 200mm and fill with cavity bats, or blown beads, easier to install for your builder and probably cheaper too. Beaten to it…

None are adequate. I suggest I creasing cavity to 150mm and going full full, as a minimum.

Are you having UFH?

Worth getting a cordless grinder of you've a lot of jobs on. Really handy tool. Oh, and one with variable speed. Allows really good, clean cuts.

you can pick up an Erbauer angle grinder from Screwfix relatively cheaply, even a battery one if you want to go down that route. great tools for a DIYer in my opinion. I have loads of them!

4” angle grinder with a diamond blade

With a budget of around 32K to play with, you could look at adding another 0 to that volume a going for an inter-seasonal store - that is, one you heat during the summer and draw on during the winter. They've been doing it on a small scale in Switzerland and Germany for a couple of decades - see the https://www.sonnenhaus-institut.de/ (in German). For example a 24,000 litre tank being installed here https://aktivsonnenhaus.de/veranstaltung/13-09-2016-spektakulaere-speichersetzung-in-90559-burgthann/ And someone here considering the idea of using a 20,000 litre milk tank as a thermal store https://www.earth.org.uk/milk-tanker-thermal-store.html

Delays need never be wasted. They're an opportunity to plan in more detail than you think you'll need ....

It uses the TOR network. Set up as read only at the moment I hope. When I get a bit of spare time i.e. not decorating, I intend to play with it a bit more. The rest of the network should be safe, until then as I can only log in in the local network via PuTTY/WinSCP/DOS command prompt. One of the things I want to learn about is using certificates as authentication. If you want to have a go at cracking into it, I can send you a link. Though I have posted it up here before.

You could use those and surface mount them on the inside and then countersink on the face for a small nut and washer - use decent epoxy filler and sand flat and it will create a strong hinge that won’t pull through as easy as screws. Other option is to make them a feature and get some brass plates made up to match the hole size and have brazed studs fitted to the back - using 3mm brass you would end up with a 15mm MDF sandwich but it wouldn’t be cheap.

Be careful when choosing and 'remote control' that is cloud based, the service can be pulled anytime the provider feels like it. As @JohnMo says, go bigger. The room warm up times will be faster as well.

Yes Joe90 exploring demolishing and rebuild vs Renovation. Will need to keep and reuse existing black face stone and stone tiles for conservation purposes . Will compare costs when have final design. New build will have higher regs to follow- not an issue if were planning this anyway Will try to stick to simple shapes and things able to build without difficulty.

First I would go for a more powerful one, a decent one will let you select the power output you need. You can then fine tune the output, if your 1kW ends up on the small size it just runs all the time. Also make sure it has a built in timer function and thermostat, so you only heat when you need to. Makes models? The other option choose any radiator you like. Add an element say 2kW and have a remote timer thermostat so it actually measures room temp. You just fill with water and some car antifreeze. More choice more adaptability.

This is the design of the shed based on the EU pallets. There will be EU pallets supporting the structure and the empty spaces I will have to fill in with some lighter pallets and cut to size. It has been adjusted to the PCV windows and doors I have. Same with the garden office where I have double doors and a wider PVC window. The size is the same as the shed.

With the colour matched silicone, you don't need to paint. Painting sucks.

For bathroom use, partel Lunos eGO….

Here you go, although you could have looked...

I checked and you are correct because no new dwelling is being constructed. If a new dwelling was being created there would be a cil liability on the 95 sqm even though it's less than 100sqm.

Get a plan. A really detailed plan.

Welcome Really will need a lot more information about the building. Pictures would help as well.

I am one of those, block inner, 200mm cavity full filled with dritherm and brick outer skin 👍, the only PIR is under the slab, it’s the only insulation that will carry a slab.

Have you considered demolishing and rebuilding?, allows you to claim VAT back on it all and gives you a chance to build a very well insulated new home foundations and all..? Photo,s and your “wants” please.

Simple square or oblong. Simple roof. Both for costs, and ease of build. Try and add wow with your external finishes, and landscaping. Silly shapes cost lots, and are hard to build well. Insulation, airtightness, etc. Welcome to the club. Exciting times ahead for you.

Yep, we rate this one as well. A tip that does work for cleaning the glass is to rub a dishwasher tablet over it. Dip it in water and rub on the glass. It has a gentle abrasive action as the tablet gets smaller.

Try this stuff - https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/253841037 It's a clear gel, wear gloves, pour some into the bottom of the oven, using a small sponge wipe it all over the inside of the oven. Leave for an hour, wipe it out with paper kitchen towel. Repeat until clean. Then rinse with a wet paper towel. If there are any nasty spots, give then a little scrub with plastic scourer. It works great. It comes with a big plastic bag, that you can put grills and wire racks into. Pour in the gel, seal the top of the bag. Massage the gel into the nooks and crannies. Leaf for an hour, massage again and repeat until clean. The contents of the bag will be truly disgusting, but the gear will be super clean. In summary, no heavy duty scrubbing, just wiping over the course of a few hours. And also dirt cheap. If it's bad you may need two packs, but still dirt cheap.

Interesting, I was this week automatically renewed with my existing insurer, Home Protect, underwritten by AXA Insurance, but I still have time to cancel it if I find something cheaper. Last year, the quote for a 5 bed house (buildings and contents) was £444. This is a fairly populated area of London. Not particularly high crime, but London rates of crime. When the renewal came through the price jumped up to £521.50, which I thought was a rip off. So I've just put in all the equivalent details into comparethemarket's search engine, with a £500 excess for buildings and £250 excess for contents and was shocked to learn that the cheapest available on comparethemarket was £760. So I'm wondering if actually the £521.50 is good value. But what bothers me is that my house has a couple of features which I think most insurers would like: we have an imist system on the ground floor and all our ground floor windows are PAS24 certified, and neither my current insurer or the search engine seems to care about. Does anybody know of an insurer that will take such measures into account?

Multi head mini-split, job done.... Cheap as chips, easily controllable, easy to fit.

Bought my first house at about 15% interest, (100% mortgage) new house off plan, got a good discount to have no heating and unpainted internally. Got a full heating system from the local recycling (or dump as it was known as then). But was cold and skint for the first 6 months. Would be outcry now if a 20s something, even thought about doing the same.

Anyone else remember interest rates around 15% ? When you got 10%+ on your savings. mortgages were roughly £10 per month per £1000 borrowed

10-15x if a retrofit into an existing poor / leaky dwelling, not so if a new job? Simple. Then you fit a 400L UVC. Incremental price increase is WAY less than buying and installing ( and finding a home for ) a second UVC, still uses the same footprint, and will be ample. I only put a 500L in for a family with 4 generations living in a massive, multi-bed / multi-bathroom house. Once blended down to shower temps that's a LOT of hot water. A "guest" switch gets fitted on any of my jobs where the house is 4 beds or above. One tap of a button and you get a 15/30/60/90/120 mins boost to either 1x or 2x 3kW immersions for duress DHW eg there's a wedding / other and the house is fully occupied with more occupants than rooms. Constant DHW with that lot going + ASHP in DHW mode.

@Selfbuildsarah you don’t need that much space and you can “stack” things such as the expansion vessels on top of the cylinders. First off, need to know how many showers etc you have - 10l/min is a pretty decent shower and is the maximum under the G2 water efficiency regs if you’re required to achieve that anyway. With an 70/30 of hot to cold from a 300 litre tank at 52°C, you’re at around 40 mins of shower flow before you get a cold shower. Take that tank to 72°C and you’re adding around 18 mins additional flow which is actually a fair amount. 82°C and you’re over an hour at 65 mins of capacity, and this is from a 300 litre UVC with 90% usable capacity. 300 litre UVCs are pretty easy to get into surprisingly small spaces - the Telford one is 660mm diameter and that’s not far off the same footprint as an ordinary fridge freezer. Telford custom make their cylinders at no extra charge with all ports and connections where you want them too so they are easily installed. I’ve designed variable flow installations with domino tanks using multiple UVCs but that’s for buildings such as B&Bs who want flex but limited heat loss when rooms aren’t in use and the 2 variables are always capacity and temperature - all depends on the need, and proper design from the outset.

@Selfbuildsarah Also, contact Trevor at Cylinders2go and mention my username and the forum for a discount on the cylinder. Telford stainless has a lifetime warranty too, and plenty on here have used them.

At the end of terminator 2; once the credits have finished , Arnie comes back on screen and says ( Austrian accent ) “ I’ll be back and lick your goaties “ - honest to God !

@SteamyTea I could only think of cracking it with a hammer. That is the extent of my computer knowledge. So from me atleast, it is very safe.

I would use 'Full-Wrap' hinges, on the swing out portions so you are fixing into the rear face of the door depending on size / weight you may need 3 or 4 of them. The center hinge much more challenging as you need get then on the inside and close the leafs. Here is an example - loads of style available all over. https://www.kitchenfittingsonline.co.uk/product/amerock-half-wrap-hinge-copy/

Then prepare yourself for your really detailed plan to fall apart at first contact and you start making everything up as you go along. 🙄

Are you @zoothorn in disguise by any chance?