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This is also a bit for all on BH. I'll assume that you are going to build a home for yourself rather than just looking at this as a commercial opportunity? If so (commercial) then you should be sticking your hand in your pocket for professional advice and not be tooling about on BH for free advice as folk on BH also think about their neighbours. I do a bit of claims work I but don't just act for developers / builders I also act to defend home owners against development in an SE capacity. I hope you get my drift? Here is a thing. As an SE I do a bit of claims against say the NHBC.. by the time I get called up folk are often at their wits end, suffered a lot and have spent loads of cash, often unnecessarily. Positive note: Let's assume you are building your forever home.. you want to get on with your neighbours, some can become great friends, keep an eye out on your property when you are away.. gives your kids a neighbour to go to in an emergency or you too when you get older and need a hand out. That has a value. Holding that train of thought.. you want to get on with your neighbours... really you do in the long run. I'm stating the obvious but your neighbours may feel they were there first.. have ownership of the view / privacy and been able to plant up their garden the way we they wanted. This is human nature.. imagine yourself in their shoes? If you can't then you need to learn more about negotiation. I'm not suggesting you go all soft.. but to negotiate well you have to put yourself in your "enemies" shoes and if you want a forever home you need to compromise to get good neighbours and what you want without a big legal barny and the risk that comes with it. Lastly never under estimate your neighbours, some may have friends / have relatives who may be with KC's, Lawyers QS's, Architechts, SE's and CE's the list goes on.. and if they feel you are bullying they will jump to their defense and often work pro bono.. I do and can tell you I can quickly rack up the stakes for you just as an SE.. to the point where you will often wish you had never gone down the legal route. Imagine your neighbour came on BH looking for advice? How would that play out? To make a start on resolving something like this, your post suggests you are already frustrated? Go back to the start. Ask: 1/ Is the wall dangerous.. is it a high wall? say greater than 1.0m in height. Could it hurt someone. Lets say the boundary wall is 1.2m - 2.0 high. As a rule of thumb if the top of the wall is more than 1/3 over the centre of gravity then that is a good starting basis as an SE for making the case that the wall is not safe. Say the wall is in old money 1 foot / 12 inches thick. The middle third is 12/3 = 4 inches. Thus if the wall is leaning out more than 2" (50mm) at the top then you question the stability. Next is the condition of the mortar.. if it has deteriorated then that has to be considered. If roots have penetrated the wall.. again this leads to instability. 2/ What do I want to build? How close to the disputed wall do I want to go? Best thing to do is to mull this over at your end. Post a few photos and your ideas / plans. The good news is that you probably have more options than you realise, often with a bit of tact things can be resolved. I totally get that you feel you may want to go legal.. but you'll just suffer grief. The first thing you need to do is fully understand the problem. Why is the wall bulging and what are the consequences. Safety is paramount and that is where your best argument lies. Unless the wall is unsafe your neighbours are probably doing nothing wrong! It may well fall to you to prove it is unsafe. Also if you build something next to the wall that compromises it further then the responsibility lies with you.. be careful what you wish for!

Conversely, I find PTFE better for this 'stop when it points to 12 o'clock' situation. I turn the fitting in dry, counting the number of turns until it stops ( in the wrong place ). I then turn it back out and count the number of revolutions again to be sure. I PTFE the thread, with around 21 turns, and then count the revolutions when going back in, knowing which one is the last full revolution before it goes past and bottoms out. Served me well to this day, and I'll carry on doing this for the next ones.

They do it with an anemometer. There was one on BH that went from person to person, but you can also hire them.

420m2 CMLC

So I take it you’re a builder / developer ..?? What is the land currently used for and do you have planning for your new house ..? Reason for asking is that this could be deemed a change of use - storage land is a different land classification so your neighbour could complain and your council could require you to obtain PP for the storage. That then means you may need to reapply for PP for any house … As a couple of people have said - that wall doesn’t look too bad and casting concrete in front of it could pay dividends in the future. Not at all - firstly they could say action you undertook undermined it if you stacked things against it. Secondly, there is no legal obligation to maintain a retaining wall assuming that the property above remains stable - they could reinstate it as a bank as long as it remains safe and on their side of the boundary. Two outstanding questions - how close is their property to the wall, and how close are you building to the retaining wall..?

Remove the roots on your land. Put in a root barrier. Build your wall. Make the Mexicans pay for it.

BPC gave me this general advice for 75mm ducts Do not place valves above showers (Outside shower area) · Place the Kitchen Extract Valve near the sink, not above the cooker. · Kitchen, Bathroom, En-Suite and Utility Valves require a double duct run. · If the duct run is greater than 15m, double the ducting. · If the duct run is greater than 20m, triple the ducting. · If the room is greater than 20m2, the valve requires a double duct run. · Do not exceed runs of 30m.

Have you thought of going out late at night to slowly but surely kill off the roots of their trees and bushes which have extended into your garden? I had to get rid of a hazelnut tree which was blocking out the light and precariously close to a retaining wall. I bought a product from the organic garden catalogue to kill off the stump. I think it was called amicide. It worked a treat. There seem to be plenty of other environmentally friendly ways of killing off the roots late at night, just google for answers.

We had a client ask for a glass floor in his office so that he could look down into reception. He hadn't thought it through either, and was embarrassed, but pleased we had explained the issue.

Excellent user interface - passes the family test, i.e. not being funny just doesn't need a manual to work it out, and reduces any complexity on the backend systems to a simple timeclock and function on/off switches. I guess no wifi/internet/cloud dependency - I love tech but making my heating system dependent on an external plethora of servers etc seems a bad direction to go in.

I've got runs of 35m in my current PH job and I have simply doubled up with 92mm ducts. I expect zero issues / elevated sound levels etc. Trickle flow rates are equivalent to a decent sized hamster coughing. People seriously over-think this.

I think this is half the battle. I knew I was out all day yesterday, so turned the storage heaters input down. Meant the house was about 17⁰C when I got in, but probably saved me 4 kWh. Just went to bed early.

Hi @ProDaveYes very complicated. Your quite right, I forgot to show the heater control switches.

It's your type of 'sport' alright..... You could mount this outside on top of the glazing. Think of the views then, but watch out for a crack appearing

Many years ago I had a call from a lady asking if I could put a glass floor in her bathroom. She also wanted an extension building on stilts in her garden. If that wasn't bad enough in her bathroom she had a wall where the tiles had been removed, she wanted the adhesive covered plasterboard saving because ( although I couldn't see it) it was a work of art. I didn't bother quoting for that one.

For a few years I rented an apartment in Leeds city centre, entire wall of en-suite was clear glass, very funny when “friends” stayed with me

A lot of the duct manufacturer will give clear guidance in the duct datasheets. Most ducting are pretty much the same, so would be worth going through some datasheets and taking a look. Zehnder for example usually have decent information.

No. just no.

This is nothing to do with the UFH, is on a different circuit, and won’t remove air from the UFH loops. The vents need to be on the manifold rails to resolve your issue. Go buy some. Don’t make me come down there 💪.

The gate valve is there to balance the flow between the heating and the hot water cylinder coil, eg so the cylinder doesn’t become an accidental bypass reducing flow to the heating if / when both are calling for heat at the same from the one shared boiler pump. Defo not on cold inlet.

I always bin the pressure gauge and install 2x AAV's.

Thanks. You should remove the two manual vents and install automatic ones. https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=821&gclid=CjwKCAiAk--dBhABEiwAchIwkWErcuPQ_EMthpOZ5eBY3VATYjXY3CtsfJKiW2tDL7MfCHybjLhgixoCUXoQAvD_BwE Will be a like for like swap, 5 mins work with an adjustable spanner and an old towel. And possibly some wellies, depending on your plumbing skills. Just turn off the red and blue taps as per your pic ( they seem to be in the closed position in that pic? ) and then you’ll only lose a pint or so of water when you remove the old vents. I’d expect this would solve the problem tbh. Worth trying that first for sure.

Here's a considerably cleaner shot I've just found on my phone

To be honest that doesn’t look too bad. The reality you face is that they aren’t going to do anything about this. You could go legal but no one ever seems to win in neighbour disputes. It’ll be protracted and it’ll cost you one way or another. You could go all technical on them as suggested above but they’ll ignore that. Assuming it is them that have committed the criminal damage on your property you know the kind of people you are dealing with. It’s like Newton’s 3rd law the more you push back the more they’ll react against it. Therefore what to do? What’s the most important thing in all of this? Presumably building the house so that’s the focus of all your energy. As suggested you could build something along the retaining wall to contain it without touching the wall.

My first foray into screeding was a 9m2 room. 60mm deep. Ended up mixing the screed myself as ordering in such a small quantity was cost prohibitive, mixing it was an art in itself, needs to be dry-ish (snowball test) but too dry and it sets crumbly. It's DIYable but not something I fancy doing again in a hurry. Cider went down surprisingly well that night...

yes.

I can probably get 4 short showers out of my 200lt cylinder that is at about 45⁰ C. The last one may be a bit tepid, but would be fine for getting the work fat off. I may try and experiment with timings on my DHW. Day just top heating, followed by day of just night heating. Not sure if it will make much difference as it is really about lowering losses, not using less water, at a colder temperature. But in the summer, when I hear just the top of the cylinder, I save about 1.5 kWh/day.

Fixed the issue…

Screed or concrete ..?? Screed gets laid semi-dry and tamped into place and smoothed, concrete is laid wet and then floated. You can walk on concrete the day after, screed needs 3-4 days ideally and then care needs to be taken for another week or so. Depending on depth and how long you’ve got or can wait, then concrete with a thin SLC layer is usually the easiest to DIY. It flows a bit better and you don’t end up in the situation that you need to work on it to finish it unlike a screeded surface. I’d want 80mm min for concrete, little bit more for standard sand cement screed. At 80mm, you’re just less than half a cubic metre or around a tonne of concrete. A volumetric mixer would drop that in 10 mins, it’s about 8 wheel barrow loads and you’ll have it levelled off and tamped within an hour. All you need is a batten on each wall to run a level board down and it’s done.

It depends on how you use your HW though. Early morning showers at any time of year will require the import of power and in the winter this may leave the cylinder close to full. It's just not easily predicted. If there is any spare PV, a cascade priority system such as this makes perfect sense to me.

So 52 kWh per night, or about 45 kWh for just heating. While that seems high to me, I am in the warmest place in the land during winter (yesterday I used 8 kWh, 3 of which were DHW and 1 for everything else), I don't think it is excessive, except your place is a bit on the cold side. Fixing drafts would help a lot with that.

Sonos stuff wont connect to wifi repeaters and it will only connect to 2.4ghz networks As has already been said - Richer Sounds and Smart Home Sounds are usually the best two retailers for Sonos, I have purchased from both without issues. The Arc sounds great with a pair of ones and a sub.

gonna say all those ratings are for loads hanging on a wall, *not* pull-out force off a ceiling. I'd definitely want a spreader at least but a nog for preference.

If you hardwire (as in wired ethernet) one Sonos speaker then it and the others will create their own wireless mesh thus not relying/impacting on your own WiFi (and whatever version it might be running).

I’ve no idea to be honest, sorry. I assumed it would be hardware. In which case I would imagine it will take some time to work through the models. Either way, all my Sonos kit has been flawless, so what benefit in waiting? There will always be an upgrade if you wait another year or two!

On off times remain on GMT, so they DON'T got forward an hour in summer.

The new water in the system will degas over time, just keep bleeding the roof vent. There is very little space for it to accumulate so only a small air lock will stop the circulation. I would advise against a bottle air vent on the roof, even the solar rated ones die in my experience. Ok to have one inside, preferably on the cold side of the system .

I had a quote from one guy who wanted to use NuHeat. was stupidly expensive. I ended up buying the stuff direct from Wunda and doing it myself. Also, is your place a new build or renovation? what are the insulation and airtight levels like? most folk on here who have well insulated and airtight houses don't have any heating on the upper floor and they say they don't need it. are you sure you need UFH on all 3 floors? depending on the layout and insulation/airtight levels it's generally thought that electric UFH in the bathrooms is enough to heat the upstairs. might save you enough to be able to afford the ASHP here's our blog post for our attempt at laying UFH.

I believe this is the tile. The lead soaker would cover the indents at the top but not much more or it would be visible. Is that enough to ensure its waterproof on a low pitch?

Is it with my car V50, can't find it anywhere, or the book with the radio code in it.

Depends who you went with and install package chosen. Most use a Platinum, Gold, Silver, bronze option with silver being fitting support and bronze being drawing help.

the weapon of last resort .. or a go to for every British Gas engineer ..! 🤣

And Worked the best for me on threaded fittings. Scrape the thread with hacksaw roughen it. Wind on appropriate amount of hemp. Butter on jointing compound and tighten. You tube told me PTFE was just a lubricant for tapered threads. 🤷‍♂️ Then again youtube regularly gives me advice that would see me dead and bankrupt in days.

Twat! PMSL.

Post up a screen dump and we can all have a look.

Please do ignore me... Consider me someone that's just wandered along and thrown something in without context or knowledge!

Padawan. The only way Dave will touch a phone made in the last 5 years is if he finds one.

Good morning. Congratulations on the longest (almost empty) message ever posted on this board. I suspect your cat stood on the <Return key> before you posted your message.

Crazy expansive? Yes, that's absolutely bloody ludicrous!! ( NOT ). How do these people sleep at night? Would you prefer something in the 8p range? Finance available? Tight-arse.

The issue as others have said is that ‘cheap ‘ providers won’t offer it . Also ‘old’ phones may be an issue . Being in my underground mega complex we rely on WiFi calling on our superior Apple phones ( superior to Android junk 😎😉 ). The more you ‘pay’ the more you get . You can purchase radio mast amplifiers for the various operators to extend to a poor signal area , but these are expensive . @ProDave you know it to be your calling . Upgrade to a modern Apple phone ( not the latest models ! ) - then enjoy the benefits . Join me young Jedi . Accept your fate , your destiny . I am your father !!! You can scream Noooooooo! At that point and be a humble left handed , vegetarian , Android user ( who had a zx spectrum ) .